Dodge - Intrepid :: 2004 V6 Runs Erratically - Revs Up Then Drops Back Down Again
Jul 16, 2013
We inherited a 2004 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L V6 with about 110K mileage. Basic problem: sometimes on startup the car runs terribly. It's like a cartoon car--it wheezes, bucks, snorts, revs up, drops back down again, etc., and cannot be driven. You know as soon as you turn the key whether or not it will run correctly. Sometimes when you turn the key, it starts up fine and runs fine. We've taken it to two different repair shops--our local guy and the dealership-- several times, and $1,700 later, it still happens. These are the repairs they have done: replace the map sensor, replace the camshaft position sensor, replace the crankshaft position sensor, replace the powertrain control module, replace the throttle position censor and, finally, replace the pigtail for the map sensor.
The codes usually indicate a problem with the map sensor. As a matter of fact, the last time we took it in while it was running terribly, our mechanic unplugged the map sensor while it was running and the engine ran smoothly while it was unplugged. This is what caused him to put in a new pigtail for the sensor. Anyway, after that last repair, a few uses later, the car acted up again. We've learned that if you let the car sit for a few minutes after a bad start up, it will often start up fine the next time you try. One note is that the problem has not occurred as often this summer as it did in the cooler months.
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My 2004 Intrepid with 100,100 miles runs and starts fine until a temperature change occurs. When that happens, and first starting, the engine will rev up and the check engine light will come. I don't drive it for awhile and then it starts and runs fine, but the check engine light is still on. I've changed various sensors, and the throttle body assembly. Still not fixed. What could be causing this? It has a 2.7 engine.
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My truck is essentially stock except EGR DELETE. Lately I am seeing my coolant gauge in the cluster drop to zero instantly when the truck is warm. A quick glance to my edge monitor shows my ECT temp fluctuating wildly (but not stone cold) ranging from 65-190'ish degrees. The weird thing is even when it's showing low on the edge, Gauge showing nothing, it kicks my fan in. I would have thought that shouldn't happen because it's still showing a value ( very low yes) but maybe it pops into limp mode?
I am also having other gremlins like driving along all warmed up, come up to a hill and if I back out of the throttle, boost drops to zero and even with holding the pedal to retain the speed I am at, it just drops speed with no boost.. I then have to stomp on it and the boost will ramp back up. It will show something like 85% VGT but zero boost.. Is it normal to show zero boost with 66% vgt at idle in Park with no boost? Getting all sorts of codes lately. The coolant one is very intermittent (every drive several time but not every minute)..
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I have 2004 Dodge Intrepid 3.5L with 153K miles. For the past tow months I am getting oil in the radiator but NO antifreeze in the oil. Oil level gets low but the transmission fluid is fine. No coolant smoke, No Oil smoke, Have been draining coolant, Passed emission 3-months ago, Gas mileage is fine @ 23MPG. I have to add about quart a month (1000?-miles). I have been using Mobile-1 synthetic since bought the car at 108K. Currently 153K miles on the engine. Two years ago water pump and timing belt was replaced. If it is the head gasket then why oil is fine and no coolant in the oil. It is Not transmission Fluid either.
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When i went out to start my car it would start but then start shaking really bad when i would it the gas it would stall what might this be? i checked the oil and it is very low could this be the problem? 2004 dodge intrepid ....
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2004 Dodge Intrepid. 70000 miles. Shimmy in steering wheel. Seems to come and go at about 7 second intervals. Suspension, tires, balance, alignment all check OK. One mechanic suggested steering rack valve problem. Could the computer possibly have anything to do with the 7 second interval?
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The other day I bought an sct tuner for my excursion and its been a little glitchy, likes to freeze up and lock out my ecu.
I was driving yesterday and today I try to turn it on and my engine knocks badly revs erratically and all gauges weren't working so i shut it off. I tried to start up again and it flashes the theft light and abs light. Won't crank won't do anything my whole engine is locked out.
So i tried reverting the ecu back to stock. I did this several times once it simply lost power and shut off at the end another time it said wrong vehicle and the final time it said completed.
Now when i try to start up it does the same thing and will not do anything but flash lights at me... When I downloaded the file it said select vehicle: 6.0 superduty. That was the only choice, and the guy at the store said that the truck tuner will work in my excursion I specifically asked if this works in the ex.
I really need my truck otherwise I will he paying hundreds in taxi fare. I tried calling the store and sct but both are closed on weekends.
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The "check engine" light on my 2004 Dodge Intrepid has been on (not blinking though) for months and, after putting new spark plugs, wires, ignition coils, 02 sensors, cam sensors and other things, the code that keeps coming up is P300 random misfire. After a few of the above items were put in (particularly the 02 sensors), the light would go off for a day or two but then always come back on. Because of this "random misfire", the car basically has no power when I push the accelerator down (at least until it warms up for a while and even then too sometimes).
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I have a 2004 Dodge Intrepid. Here's the deal. When I drive on the highway (higher speeds) and then slow down, the car (automatic transmission) automatically downshifts drastically (like throw me through the windshield drastically) and then will not come out of that lower gear.. UNLESS I turn off the engine and restart it, THEN it fixes itself (took me a while to discover this). When I am driving around town at lower speeds this does not happen. Only if I get to higher speeds and then slow down. And one other symptom...SOMETIMES I can just be at a stop light/sign, still in drive, but when I put on the gas to go, it stays, like the car is in neutral, even though the gearshift is still in drive.
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I have a really nice 1986 Ranger XLT with a 2.9 V6 (injected) and OD Automatic with about 135k miles. I've had the truck for over ten years and have been pretty happy with it. I'm still trying to correct a couple of nuisance items:
1. Sometimes it runs smoothly, and at others it has a rough idle, and once in a while it will even stall. Before it stalls, it idles or runs roughly, and will miss erratically. When it quits, it does not fade out like it is running low on gas; it quits suddenly, like the ignition is turned off. If I am driving at highway speeds, sometimes it will buck as it misses, and sometimes stalls out. But it always starts up right away afterwards. This does not happen often, but when it does, it happens several times over hours or days, and then goes away by itself for months, even years, and then comes back for another round.
I was hoping whatever was wrong would totally fail, but it has been several years and is not getting better, nor worse. Fuel mileage varies, too, from 16 to high 20's MPG. I have new low- and high-pressure fuel pumps (dual tanks), new gas and air filters, checked all the electrical connections, put in a new ignition switch, new O2 sensor, Air Flow sensor, EGR, replaced all the vacuum lines, new battery and cables, new starter, all new electrical relays, fuel pressure regulators, new fuel pump inertia switch, tuned up engine (incl. wires, cap, rotor, ign module, plugs and timing), and cleaned out the already sparkling-clean tanks.
2. My oil pressure will drop at idle to low-normal when the engine is warm. It never goes to below Normal on the gauge. I have replaced the gauge, sending unit, and oil pump. This is a long-term issue, and is not getting any better or worse.
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I have a 2002 dodge intrepid that wont crank over sometimes unless I take the key and keep moving from the start position to the off position ,then it finally engages. I have replaced the battery, but I thought if it was a starter issue, it would click more than once.
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I backed out of the drive way with My 96 Dodge Intrepid yesterday and when I put it in drive I noticed the CEL came was on. Seemed like it came on with in a few seconds of driving forward. I was driving slow as that is what is called for in my neighborhood and all seemed ok. About 2 minutes later when I was going about 40 I noticed the Tach was at about 3k. I seems it will not shift into 3rd. I moved the shift lever several times and it did not seem to impact anything. I immediately drove home and used my other car to go to my appointment. It did seem to shift fine other than that.It never got to warm so I did not check the fluid but I did check it a few days earlier and it was ok. We had snow the previous day and I would have noticed any leaks on the drive way, which I did look for, and did not find any.
I know I need to get the CEL read. I need to drive about 10 miles to get somewhere to do that. Is there anything else I can check or try before hand? My guess is it is an electrical issue as it happened fast with out any warning. I don't have a lot of experience with transmissions but my guess is it is a solenoid not working. It may be fried or it is not getting a signal. Possibly VSS or something in the powertrain module or what every they call it in Chrysler world?
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I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid automatic v6. My battery light is lightup on the dash board so I figured my battery was dying due to loss of power in the vehicle, or the alternator going out. I took off the negative wire to the battery and the car continued to run, as Ive been told that by doing this, if the car dies then the alternator is bad. I checked the battery and it reads 14 volts, so I believe the battery is good? I do have a sound system in the car and have a 1500 watt amp connected, the previous owners also had a stereo system and however they rigged there's was totally a mess as the wires were all, just a mess. As of today, the car has died, and when we jumped it it did start up, but was not able to keep power, the dash lights would not come on, basically anything that had to do with electric stuff was not working? I did just get a tune up and oil change, new spark plugs and wires, and also it has been over heating.....
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I have a 98 Dodge Intrepid and it smokes when I pull out. I was told it may be the valve seals. Is this true? Could it be the rings? It doesnt seem to smoke when I go up hills just when I pull out.. Is there an easy fix?
What are some problems I can expect with this car? I have 107,000 miles and am wondering when can I expect the timing belt to fail? What are some things I may have to fix?
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Here is the history of the car. 1997 Dodge Intrepid, 3.3L V6, close to 200k miles. Bought used 8 years ago.
Engine was replaced by previous owner due to front end accident at 90k (about, memory is fuzz on the full miles). Previous owner was a sales lady and had a repair log. Kept car running like a coo-coo clock since work paid for the maintenance. Her insurance paid for the repair then her work would not continue to pay for upkeep, due to accident. Since I bought the car, I kept in the same frame of mind of maintenance and upkeep.
- Oil is changed regularly and on time (no burning or loss, still filled to levels with synthetic high mileage oil) (Color - maple syrup amber, due to be changed in 500 or so miles)
- Water pump changed 3 months ago (no oil in the res. tank)
- Alt. changed in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Ignition Coil and spark plug wires in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Battery replaced in 2007 with a new one)
- Spark plugs last Feb. (about 10k miles ago - Look semi clean and are all gaped still to the manual specs) as well as the 2 belts on the engine.
(Timing chain same age as the replaced engine at 90k)
- All the instrument panel lights work, as well as head, turn signals, interior and tail.
Has for a long time (4 years or so), has an engine light on for an O2 sensor (Code 0134 and the meter I have).
The exhaust system had disconnected from the Catalytic Converter (engine side) last winter (9 months or so ago) due to weathering (clamps rusted off and pipes separated). Recently I repaired this 2 weeks ago (noting heavy black soot in the pipes and around the area on the underside). Once replaced had a cloud of soot when I floor the gas hard while driving.
Yesterday while driving after 10 mins from home while accelerating I noticed a loss of power (slowing down) instinct was to press the gas, did so, and slowed down even more. Car drifted to a stop, engine power was also gone (power steering was gone also). When this happened, there was No banging, or clunks, or loud sounds, or overtly ominous clouds of smoke. Engine turned off (while costing to a stop the engine acted as if out of gas - hence no power steering). Got a tow home.
The starter turns the engine over with no clatter, banging, or clunks. No backfires or "Coughing". Same sound as of before, but won't catch and run under own power. (Still acts like no gas, but has half a tank) (battery still has a full charge - spark plugs still spark - took one out of engine while still connected to spark plug cable grounded to engine for testing. No overtly heavy gas smell or residue on plug or during test).
My friend who assisted in the exhaust repair says that it is not the Catalytic Converter being clogged (I believe it is). His suggestion is a faulty sensor somewhere else, maybe cam/crank sensor, maybe MAP sensor, maybe ignition switch, bad EGR or even a bad ASD relay. Don't want to be buying parts to no end on this, need other input to narrow down a direction.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Intrepid 2.7 L DOHC that continues to run hot. I have replaced the thermostat, fans, relief value and have done a radiator flush.
After I have had these things done the car does fine for about a week then back to the same old crap. I can drive about 40 miles in the morning time nothing happens. In the afternoon about 20 miles then the temp gauge starts rising so I turn on my heater for about 5 minutes till it goes down then turn the ac back on for the next 20 miles home and does fine.
If I turn the car off for about 10 minutes or less then crank it back up the temp gauge jumps way up there I sit and let it idle till it goes back down on its own without the heater.
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I recieved a smog check and I fail one small problem. but what do this code stands for PO441?
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My 01 Dodge Intrepid has a year old rebuilt engine and a yr. old master computer. Past two months, just dies while driving. Try to start and just turns over and over and over. Once it sits for two days, it will start right up first try. Twice it has died at the same spot on the highway entrance ramp! Seems like a clogged fuel filter but shop says there is plenty of fuel and good pressure. They think it is the computer and needs to be "flashed" at a dealer. I smell oil burning on the engine and the oil light keeps coming on but the oil was just changed and is still full and clean? (The first time it went in for this problem the guy just replaced a relay--doesn't show any codes).
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I have a 97 intrepid with3.5 replaced fuel injector ran worse replaced fuel pressure reg ran little better won't stay running replaced fuel pump sound a lot better runs longer but still dies to replace air control vial runs even better but RPMs stay at 3500 for a min then dies down to 500 rpm then just dies, whats wrong with this car ?
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I was trying to look up how to change the battery in a 1999 dodge intrepid. When I looked on line I got different ways to change it. One was removing the front tire and remove it from below. The other is to remove air cleaner and other items and remove from the top. Which way is it?
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96 dodge intrepid, 3.5. Few yrs back kid flooded it at -10f. I changed wet plugs and it started. Ran ok for 10miN, idled fine .n than I drove it 10 miles and it would not idle. I was 150mi from home and kept going. Car ran so-so. Seemed sluggish at 60mph. Exhaust actually made black/soot stain on bumper. My mileage on hwy was about 1/2 normal. I pulled plugs when I got home and they were black. Took about 1 week of driving to eventually settle down. Never did find any reason for issue. Some said my o2 sensors were buggy. I never changed them and had car for 2 more yrs and it ran great. Why it would not idle?
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