Dodge - Intrepid :: 2004 - Transmission Automatically Downshifts Drastically Then Will Not Come Out Of That Lower Gear
Apr 5, 2014
I have a 2004 Dodge Intrepid. Here's the deal. When I drive on the highway (higher speeds) and then slow down, the car (automatic transmission) automatically downshifts drastically (like throw me through the windshield drastically) and then will not come out of that lower gear.. UNLESS I turn off the engine and restart it, THEN it fixes itself (took me a while to discover this). When I am driving around town at lower speeds this does not happen. Only if I get to higher speeds and then slow down. And one other symptom...SOMETIMES I can just be at a stop light/sign, still in drive, but when I put on the gas to go, it stays, like the car is in neutral, even though the gearshift is still in drive.
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I've noticed lately in auto mode (not in sport mode) when I'm going downhill on a section (doing maybe 45-50 mph) of road and apply the brakes, the transmission wants to downshift automatically to 5th gear. I know in Sport mode if you are not using paddle shifters this seems normal. I don't think this is normal in just auto mode, non sport.
I don't think mine is normal as I don't remember it downshifting this much in auto mode. I'm thinking fluid level needs to be checked. I know there is a sensor in the transmission that senses the angle of the car so not sure if it's being overly aggressive or not.
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I recently had several parts replaced on my 02 Dodge Intrepid within the last few months, including the brake lines, motor, gas lines, sensors, spark plugs, and a few rusted parts that were busted while the motor was being replaced. I have had my car back for a week after most recently getting the gas line replaced. (My gas line froze the same day I got it back after getting the motor fixed!)I haven't had an issues until Saturday morning my engine light came on.
I drove it throughout the day no problems, then I stopped at a red light and had trouble accelerating when I went to turn, my car then jerked forward and and ran seemingly normal, but the problem continued every time I stopped or slowed down. After 5 minutes or less of this I parked my car and called my mechanic. After a half hr I restarted my car and circled the parking lot with no issue and headed to a friends nearby. The stalled accelerating and jerking began again until I couldn't accelerating at all without waiting and restarting my car, and then finally there was no moving it at all.
I had it towed this morning and was told I had no transmission fluid. After replacing the fluid my car was driven to my house without an issue, so im assuming I didn't blow my trans? Several hours later, I went to start my car and there was a large amount of red fluid under the front of the car by the bumper and it wont move once again. Obviously I have a leak, but I don't know if the leak was the cause of the initial problem or if the problem caused the leak.
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We have a 2007 Limited that we love everything about except the way the transmission downshifts to first gear when it seems to me it should stay in second. My inlaws have a 2007 XLS and it doesn't do this. This is our third Avalon and the only one to do this. The dealer we bought from says this is normal but I strongly disagree. Is there a service bulletin on this or what else can be done.
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I have 2004 Dodge Intrepid 3.5L with 153K miles. For the past tow months I am getting oil in the radiator but NO antifreeze in the oil. Oil level gets low but the transmission fluid is fine. No coolant smoke, No Oil smoke, Have been draining coolant, Passed emission 3-months ago, Gas mileage is fine @ 23MPG. I have to add about quart a month (1000?-miles). I have been using Mobile-1 synthetic since bought the car at 108K. Currently 153K miles on the engine. Two years ago water pump and timing belt was replaced. If it is the head gasket then why oil is fine and no coolant in the oil. It is Not transmission Fluid either.
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When i went out to start my car it would start but then start shaking really bad when i would it the gas it would stall what might this be? i checked the oil and it is very low could this be the problem? 2004 dodge intrepid ....
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2004 Dodge Intrepid. 70000 miles. Shimmy in steering wheel. Seems to come and go at about 7 second intervals. Suspension, tires, balance, alignment all check OK. One mechanic suggested steering rack valve problem. Could the computer possibly have anything to do with the 7 second interval?
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When I start the truck in cold weather, the transmission doesn't want to shift out of 1st gear. Some time it take driving it a 1/8 of a mile before it shifts.
What is wrong / need replaced ? I was told to shift it thru all the gears before I move it to warm up the transmission fluid ? I'm thinking some sensor needs replace ???
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My 2004 Intrepid with 100,100 miles runs and starts fine until a temperature change occurs. When that happens, and first starting, the engine will rev up and the check engine light will come. I don't drive it for awhile and then it starts and runs fine, but the check engine light is still on. I've changed various sensors, and the throttle body assembly. Still not fixed. What could be causing this? It has a 2.7 engine.
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The "check engine" light on my 2004 Dodge Intrepid has been on (not blinking though) for months and, after putting new spark plugs, wires, ignition coils, 02 sensors, cam sensors and other things, the code that keeps coming up is P300 random misfire. After a few of the above items were put in (particularly the 02 sensors), the light would go off for a day or two but then always come back on. Because of this "random misfire", the car basically has no power when I push the accelerator down (at least until it warms up for a while and even then too sometimes).
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We inherited a 2004 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L V6 with about 110K mileage. Basic problem: sometimes on startup the car runs terribly. It's like a cartoon car--it wheezes, bucks, snorts, revs up, drops back down again, etc., and cannot be driven. You know as soon as you turn the key whether or not it will run correctly. Sometimes when you turn the key, it starts up fine and runs fine. We've taken it to two different repair shops--our local guy and the dealership-- several times, and $1,700 later, it still happens. These are the repairs they have done: replace the map sensor, replace the camshaft position sensor, replace the crankshaft position sensor, replace the powertrain control module, replace the throttle position censor and, finally, replace the pigtail for the map sensor.
The codes usually indicate a problem with the map sensor. As a matter of fact, the last time we took it in while it was running terribly, our mechanic unplugged the map sensor while it was running and the engine ran smoothly while it was unplugged. This is what caused him to put in a new pigtail for the sensor. Anyway, after that last repair, a few uses later, the car acted up again. We've learned that if you let the car sit for a few minutes after a bad start up, it will often start up fine the next time you try. One note is that the problem has not occurred as often this summer as it did in the cooler months.
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2003 Dodge Durango 4wd, 4.7 liter, 130,000 miles ... I'm having a problem with stalling. First started about 3 months ago, when I would come to a stop, the rpm's would fall off drastically, but would rebound right away. About a week later, it would actually stall, but I could start it without a problem. Took it to a local shop where they said my cam sensor needed replacement. That was done and it ran good for about 2 weeks when the same thing started again.
Took it back to the same shop and they told me that the cam sensor had gone bad or the sensor that had been put in was faulty. They replaced it at no charge to me, but they said that the crank sensor needed to be flashed and that had to be done by the dealer. So off to the dealer I went, and they told me that the crank sensor needed to be replaced not flashed. I had them do that and it ran good for about 2 weeks again and now it's starting to stall again.
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My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
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So i have a 2006 3.6 Passat, and when starting from a standstill, the car lags before it actually starts to move. i have to wait over a second for the engine to actually rev once i put the pedal down. the car is also very sloppy when automatically downshifts. I am thinking it must be a problem with the ecu, but i got the car checked out to address this problem but the mechanics couldn't find a problem.
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Ok I have been trying to find out what is going on with my truck and I cant seem to find anything on here that points to all the symptoms I am having. I have a 05 xlt 4x4 with 5.4. For the last 5 months or so I have been noticing a slip or grinding noise when I go up a hill and it downshifts into I believe 3rd gear. It sounds like going over rumble strips on the road but only lasts a second. It also does it sometimes when I pull out from a stop.Also when I let off gas or brake to a stop it seems to shudder a bit.
Maybe its my imagination since I keep hearing for the grinding sound, I don't know anymore.Its driving me nuts(er). It doesn't do it all the time either.It has only 65,000 miles on it and never towed. I know I am due for a total tranny flush since it never had one. Could this be the whole problem? Iv been reading other stories that sound close to mine but they never mentioned about the noise when pulling out. Could it be the rear end? I am totally lost on this one.Other then that problem it runs great. Shifts nice.
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I've always wondered why the transmission automatically shirts to 4th gear when I switch to sport mode! Is this normal??? It's an i4
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I have a 04, f-250, with a 6.0 liter engine. I have had the Cat removed and in the last couple months it has developed a sneeze like hesitation just before it down shifts to Passing gear, If I push my foot into the fuel it jumps right down thru the sneezing into passing gear. I have changed fuel filter and grade A cleaned my EGR valve. the only Codes it throws is P0403 and P0405.
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My friend told me the other day her car was in overdrive (hwy driving) and suddenly, it shifted to a lower gear. It seems no one knows why. She does have an extended warranty, but the garage might charge her $300 to open it up to see what is wrong. Another friend suggested a clogged filter. Another one, a sensor.
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My transmission seems to stay in lower gear than needed on highway. Tach speeds are 2500 @ 55 and closer to 3000 @60-65. Is this normal?
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I have a 1996 escort wagon with strange auto transmission behavior. Sometimes during the summer months but mostly during the winter; the transmission will start off in 3rd gear from a stop and won't go any higher or lower. If I drive it around for a while, it will suddenly shift into 4th then the transmission will act normally for a while then for no reason will just suddenly start off in 3rd gear from a dead stop. It has been doing this for about 8 months now. 146k miles. I have tried shifting through all the gears manually. It will drop down into first when I put the lever there, but when I move the lever back up into drive, it goes right back into 3rd.
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I have a 2002 dodge intrepid that wont crank over sometimes unless I take the key and keep moving from the start position to the off position ,then it finally engages. I have replaced the battery, but I thought if it was a starter issue, it would click more than once.
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