Dodge - Grandcaravan :: Whine Type Of Noise That Increases In Pitch As Engine Is Accelerated
Jan 22, 2012
I recently had to replace my drive belt on a 97' dodge grand caravan sport 3.3 engine. The belt shredded and this is how i knew i had to replace it. Since i replaced it i notice a whine type of noise that increases in pitch as the engine is accelerated. The other thing I've noticed is that all electrically related operations work better as it is accelerated. For example, the air blows harder, the wipers move faster, and the lights brighten. Now i honestly can't say that it didn't do this before i changed the belt. I wonder if a bearing is going out on a pulley. I have noticed the same behavior on my daughters 98 sable. Also note that i did get all of the pieces of the old belt out from the pulleys and i did spin each of them to make sure the were moving without any resistance.
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Recently had my 105K maintenance done which was water pump and timing belt plus whatever other misc belts go with that. Had it done at an indepentdent shop. Since the job was done we have noticed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with RPM or speed that we drive (literally sounds like a jet engine whine). I took it back to the independent shop and he suggested it was our transmission. I have noticed no difficulty when changing gears nor any engine warning lights. I contacted Honda and our vehicle was part of a transmission recall in 05 that was done already. Other sources have suggested that the whine could be the belt being too tight or the water pump. Shop supposedly used all honda parts. Should I take it back to him again and suggest that the belt is too tight? Take it to the dealer and see what they think?
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Our 2008 Honda CR-V w/120k one owner, always dealer maintained, vehicle has recently started exhibiting a little high pitch whine coming from the engine area which increases when you rev the gas. I checked the transmission dipstick and the level is just below the bottom hole (owners manual says it should be between the bottom and top hole). Would this make the whine? By adding some fluid should it go away? Is it okay to use a fluid other than Honda's?
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I just drove away in a new 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan - had 106 miles when I took title at the dealership - and immediately noticed the most annoying high pitched whine or whistle. It seems to occur under 2000 RPMs and starts around 25mph. It continues until about 45 mps and then either becomes less audible behind the engine noise or stops - hard to tell. When the car slows down, it comes back -- most of the time. It changes in pitch as the car goes faster and as it slows down.
It has been so loud at times that I think it's a police or ambulance siren and I have gotten ready to pull over. It does not happen in neutral when I rev the engine - the car has to be moving. Turning the wheels doesn't seem to make a difference. I am going to take it in to the dealer but I suspect they will just laugh and say that's how the car sounds. I've never had a car that had such an annoying soundtrack - and I've rented about 5 of these minivans over the past 3 years and never experienced this, either.
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So I heard some low-pitch but still the squeaky-type noise under the wheel when I turn it while driving/parking. In addition, once in a while, while driving the car, it will automatically honk on the street. I sense the car may need some check-up for its electric system. But what shall I do at this moment?
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My 2.2 crtd is the first ever diesel car i have bought, but i have noticed a whine especially when cold, pitch bieng raised as engine revs. Is this a characteristic of this car or am i in for a bill further down the line.
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I have a '99 Chevy Lumina 3100 V6 with 54k miles. There is a loud, high-pitch buzzy whine that changes pitch with engine RPM/transmission speed. The whining noise is only evident while the car is accelerating (forward or reverse), and above 5 mph. I removed the serpentine belt and drove it briefly (500 feet) - the noise is still there without the belt. I figure it's safe to assume it's not the power steering pump, alternator, H20 pump, idler or belt tensioner. The transmission has had regular service, and shifts smoothly in all gears (fluid is clean and level is full). There is only a slight raspy "scraping" noise in park or neutral, which becomes almost undetectable when shifting to drive or reverse with the brake still applied.
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I replaced the timing belt an waterpump at 262,000 miles and ever since the engine makes a loud low pitch noise that varies in pitch depending on the engine speed. I replaced the alternator and it didn't work. I don't know if the power steering pump, a/c compressor or something else is making this awful sound.
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There's a high pitched whine type noise coming from my Mass Airflow Sensor. I can get it to go away temporarily if I goose the gas pedal, but it comes back after a minute or two. Has not affected drive-ability, but it's pretty annoying. It sounds like the hot wire is probably vibrating. Is there any fix for it, or do I have to replace the sensor to get rid of it?? Have tried cleaning it, but that did not work.
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I have an appointment next week at the dealer to have this checked out. My 2015 Grand Caravan with just over 30,000 miles, has been leaking a bit. Enough to make a mark on any spot I park in for longer than an hour or so. I placed a white poster board under the front end to see if I could identify where and what it may be. After about 6 hours, I checked and it seemed to have several drops of what certainly looked like engine oil. A dark golden. The leak seems to be located about 3 or 4 inches inside the front driver's side tire.This has been going on for just under a month. I keep checking fluid levels, and the engine oil doesn't seem to be diminishing at all, though it is a bit tough to tell exactly because it is clean and hard to see on the dipstick for this auto novice.
An attempt to crawl under didn't produce any real info, seems there is a bit of the oil anywhere in the area when dabbed with a white rag.Again I am a novice, so I am just asking what I should expect when the van is checked out. The car has had all needed maintenance at the correct intervals, though the last couple changes have admittedly been at a quickie place.My father, a former mechanic till retirement told me in theory there is no way to be leaking oil and not have at least some lowering of the oil level, obviously.Could this just be seeping so slowly to not notice a level difference? I know it is next to impossible to get a diagnosis here without a real inspection, but based on the location of the drips and the color of the liquid, any guesses would be great.I am 6,000 miles away from the end of the warranty, and we have a long road trip planned in a few weeks.
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If I am moving in reverse and tap the brake I hear a clunk from the rear of the car. If I continue in reverse and then again apply the brake then no clunk. If I drive forward and stop, no clunk. If I then shift into reverse again and apply brake I get the clunk again. Had the struts/shocks replaced but no change.
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Driving our 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan which we love. We have 118,000 miles on the odometer now and a dent or two but otherwise it's in great shape. About 2 years ago, we started to notice a high-pitched "whining" noise on our way from Michigan's Upper Peninsula to Florida. We were driving in the fall in the lovely Smoky Mountains. The weather was hot, the air conditioning on and the van working hard to climb the mountains. We stopped for gas, and then as we started driving again noticed this whining noise when pressing on the accelerator.
The noise did not stop until the next morning when the car was completely cool, but started again when it heated up. This whining continues to happen every time the car is driven long distances/gets very warm. Our Michigan mechanic thought it was the alternator and replaced the alternator and coolant tube in 8/2012 but that did not work. Our mechanic flushed the transmission and replaced the fluid in 5/2013 but that did not work. Neither of them could tell us what causes this noise. Should we just continue to drive it this way or go to another shop?
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Sometimes I'll walk my wife out to the garage in the morning when she is leaving for work. When she starts up her 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan FWD sto n go I hear a clicking noise for about 2 seconds. To me it sounds like the lifters prior to getting the oil delivery. I was wondering if that was going to eventually cause some engine damage and also if there is a problem with the oil pump or something like that. Is this a problem that I should check into or is this normal for this van. We hit a deer several months ago and the whole front end was wasted. I don't remember hearing this clicking sound when the van was newer.
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In May of this year (2015), it started to die. What I mean is it loses all electrics and it kills the engine. No dash lights, no odometer, no headlights, no radio, no blower, no electric windows, no electric locks, no interior lights, no visable sign that it has power at all except a tiny red light on the dash that blinks every few seconds.Always at low speeds under 30mph, usually while under load from either being on the freeway for a bit or while the AC was running or both. If I wait long enough, it comes back on all by itself but this can take seconds or hours. The radio is not reset, which is the only other indication that the battery terminals are not at fault. I am getting power to the starter, but nothing else.
When it first started happening, we thought it was a fuse or relay and swapped out several, but while it was dead, nothing affected it. It only happened three times until July when it stepped up its game and would die multiple times a day.Under advice of a shadetree mechanic, we replaced the Powertrain control Module (PCM) located behind the front bumper under the driver side headlight. This seemed to solve the problem for almost a month when the water pump decided to fail and we replaced it, the thermostat and radiator fan thermometer, only for it to die exactly as before only the very next day.The shop ran it until it died, took the pcm off and checked to see if it was overheating, but it wasnt. They checked the battery cables, fuses and anything else they could think of.
I got it it back at the beginning of October and on its first night out it died twice. I was driving it and noticed that it was a hot muggy day about 80F and because I was wary of it dying I chose not to run the AC, but the air coming from the vents was still quite cold. First time it died we popped the hood and the Eatx shutdown relay was hot enough to fry an egg. I replaced it with a spare I had, and all the systems in the van sprang back to life. It made it a mile before dying again and this time the new relay was hot, but all I did was wiggle it and back to life it went. Drove it 12 more miles home, then the next day back to the shop without incident.
I went to talk with the shop a couple days ago, because I really need this thing fixed but they are not sure what to do next. I told them about the AC running even while off and so we pulled the fuse for the AC clutch entirely. I ran it around for twenty minutes and even with the temp on the dash at normal hot position center of the gauge and blower at full tilt and set to hot with AC off, I had the coldest air until I hit a bump and suddenly I had hot air. Thinking the AC clutch was seized I took it back to the shop, verified that the compressor wasnt working anymore while engine was running and thought we may have fixed the issue.
Three days later, I have driven it all over with no issue, only for it to now die twice in a mile all within a mile of home. On the way home, the heater wasn't blowing as hot as it could be, until I almost made it to my freeway exit, by then I was worried that it was going to die after I had slowed down to the side road speed which it did happen.
I opened the driver door to get out and that was all the jarring it took to turn everything back on, the second time I had popped the hood and was reaching for the clips to the fuse cover to check the eatx shutdown relay when it all came back on. The relay was no warmer than the relay for the fuel pump. Between the first and second event, I could feel it hesitating every few seconds like it was about to lose power. After the second event I was so close to home I may have been a little lead-footed and did not notice.
Addendum: The bellows in the interior heater broke back on Valentine's day, so no matter what the dial it set to, it only blows out the upper body vents on the dash. The radio has an issue that it can no longer play tapes and one of the speakers is mostly silent. I wondered if either of these were shorting out and causing issue.
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I have a 2010 Grand Caravan, and the engine just stops while moving down the road. Once you shift to neutral, the engine starts again easily. The only common thing we've found is that the skid control light goes on. It doesn't seem to happen when going more than 30 mph, and does seem to happen more when the temps outside are changing, but both when we get a warm spell or a cold snap. The recall work on the key assembly has been done, and the key always seem to be in the on position, so it's not that known issue. The local garage couldn't find anything or even replicate the problem. The dealership replaced the spark plugs and did a fuel system cleaning. Those were probably due, but they didn't seem to work much.
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I have an odd issue. I bought my car used from the dealer. The fuel pump was replaced last December, as well as had an oil change. The fuel pump died right after the oil change but are seemingly unrelated since the pump was bad when i bought it. After the pump was replaced my van stated acting up over the next couple days. The fuel gauge would dance randomly. That has since settled down. Now when i make left turns, the rpms drop and i have to pump the had to get it going again or else it completely stalls out in the middle of an intersection. .. it had been steadily getting more frequent and only on left turns. Right turns runs fine.
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2010 Dodge Grand Caravan. On the way to work I was trying to accelerate from about 40mph to 50 mph and my van started to jerk a few times and then the check engine light immediately turned on. I only had a few more miles to work and it was fine the rest of the way.
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This question concerns starting our 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan with 170K. The problem started about a week ago. When turning the key to start the engine, nothing would happen. No click, no noise, no engine turnover. By turning the key to off and then back on several times, the starter would kick in normally. The starter has never been replaced and I don't recall any electrical work ever being done on the car. I take it to our mechanic about every 2 years for a tune up and replacement of belts and hoses as needed.I have a friend that is a good shade tree mechanic and he is willing to replace the starter.My question is: Is the problem most likely a bad starter and if so, is replacement by my friend a reasonably easy task.
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I had my car power steering lush at a repair shop! Unfortunately, power steering is too noisy (lot of air trapped). The mechanic fixed right away at the time I picked up my vehicle but still had some noisy, he suggested I drove for few days to get the air out. After a week driving and the air still trapped. I brought my vehicle back to the shop and had the mechanic fixed again! and this time I got power steering leak when I drove home! I returned to the shop and he said he replaced both bad power steering hoses. Noise was gone (engine was at operating temperature).
My power steering is still noisy at a touch of turning steering wheel (not even turn the vehicle), it's noisy when engine first started regardless the temperature outside. I drive my car for few blocks and the noise goes away. I won't bring my car back to the shop anymore, they may make it worse. Logical thinking, I think either the air still trapped deep inside the steering system or the O-rings at hose ends are defective. When engine is cold O-ring is cold and shrink, it does not seal properly and when it reaches operating temperature, O-ring expands and seals properly. That's my thinking, of course, I can be easily wrong. There's no power steering leak to the floor!
Will those after market power steering seal additives like Lucas 10008 and other fix my vehicle power steering issue? is there something I can do at home to fix this?
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2002 dodge grand caravan. We feel the heat from engine block inside the two front seats (driver and front passenger). We also feel heated wind (blowing strong) and smell coolant when standing outside the vehicle by the driver and front passenger door with the engine idling.
There's visual small leak, once the vehicle is parked. I wonder where the leak is (not on radiator and the radiator coolant level remains full). I bought Preston Radiator Complete Care and Stop Leaks. I haven't put it in yet, just wonder if this will work.
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I recently bought an 07 Dodge Grand Caravan and noticed that when we shut the rear door(trunk? hatch? whatchamacallit?) it makes an incredibly loud noise...almost like a gunshot. It seems as though the back glass is lifting off a bit and then slamming down. Is that something I can fix on my own?
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