Dodge - Grandcaravan :: Leak In HVAC System And Exhaust Smell
Feb 19, 2015
Two related problems:
1) Our 2008 dodge grand caravan's recycled cabin air/exterior air flipper is broken. You know, makes the clicking clunking sound until it gives up?
2) Unfortunately this has made the exhaust smell that much worse.
Usually when you drive above 35mph you don't catch engine fumes, but when its anything less you fear you're poisoning your family into early cancer. Obviously we have a leak in the HVAC system somewhere and anytime we take it somewhere for service on something else they just shrug their shoulders.
How to locate the leak so I can keep the engine compartment out of our a/c?
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I have a 2003 Dodge Neon and recently had transmission work done on the car. When I got the car back the radiator cap was left loose, I didn't know this until I took the car for a drive and it overheated. I let the car cool down, replaced the coolant, and made sure the cap was sealed down. The car now has a slow coolant leak, when I turn the car off I can see it drip underneath for about 2 minutes and then it stops. Also, after the car heats up to running temperature I get a burning rubber smell coming through the vents. What could this be? The car only has 70,000 miles on it and I would like to keep it going if I can.
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I know if you smell antifreeze when you turn on the heater that is a bad thing. I don't have this issue, but when I walk into the garage after my wife turns off the van I get a whiff of what smells like antifreeze. There isn't a leak that I can find and nothing on the floor the garage out the normal.
2006 Dodge Grand Caravan 80K miles
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My 2003 Passat has a musty smell coming from the HVAC system that just won't go away. Have resealed pollen filter and had airsept treatment (this worked for a while, but now the smell is worse than ever). Two dealers have tried (and failed) to fix this. It's so bad I can't take passengers in the car.
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Our 2002 Camry SE V6 incurs a burning odor through the HVAC system after braking from moderate or higher speeds (at low speeds, this does not happen). It can last for a few seconds or a few minutes and then goes away (it does not happen while in motion). I cannot smell anything outside the car.
The car was inspected & serviced two months ago with no issues found. The front valve cover was replaced about a year ago but the back valve cover was OK to leave as is.
I would want to say it is the brakes or the snow tires causing the odor but it is strange it only smells inside the car.
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I just had my van inspected and tires rotated...van sits for a few days then travels 20 miles and am now smelling something burning and smoke is coming out from front right tire. Other discussions say calipers/pads and that's ok BUT my question is since my van only has @24,000 on it, did the mechanic do something when he rotated my tires? I am a senior citizen and only use my van once a week.
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1996 Grand Caravan with ABS, 3.3L V6, 152k.
Am I correct that Dot 4 brake fluid is equivalent to Dot 3 - with the added advantage of higher boiling point? Is there any downside to using Dot 4, other than a small additional cost? Seems like the cost difference is irrelevant compared to the safety margin to reduce the chance of boiling the brake fluid on a long downhill in hot weather, or - as in a recent puzzler - heating from the exhaust system. Or is Dot 3 really just fine for most cars?
Either way, I'm going to flush the system with new fluid (and replace old parts as needed), it's definitely due. Neither my owners manual, nor the factory service manual, gives a capacity for the entire system. Ditto the Napa store. I'm guessing it's in the range of two quarts. I don't want to buy a full gallon only to let it sit in the garage, but if I need three quarts, I may as well buy the gallon. Where to find the capacity, or have a ballpark approximation for what the system will need?
Also, is there any benefit to flushing the system BEFORE replacing wheel cylinders to keep old fluid out of new parts? That makes sense to me, even if it uses extra fluid. So:
1: Dot 3 vs Dot 4
2: capacity
3: which comes first: flush or new parts
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Our 2005 Grand Caravan, 138K, had this message pop up and stay on the information system: "Service Tire System Soon."All tires are properly inflated.The operators' manual says to see dealer service department. Why a dealer service department is needed?
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The air/heating system in my Dodge Grand Caravan (2011) has been turning on by itself. Sometimes, it will turn on repeatedly (full blast) three or four times within 10 minutes and sometimes it turns on literally every 5 seconds... I turn it off... 5 seconds later, it comes back on. This can go on for as long as I am in the car.
Also, when it comes on and turn it down, it just turns itself back on full blast again. It seems to start in the back of the van (when it first comes on) and then when I get the rear off, the front stays on. Once I finally get that off, the rear will come again within a matter of moments. It doesn't matter if I have the A/C or the heat on... It does it either way.
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Took our 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan to a tire shop today. One sensor battery is completely dead, and when replaced, the other 3 batteries were too weak remove the alert from the information panel. Cost to repair all 4 is $400. Decided to live with the alert and they graciously put the bad sensor back in. Is there any way to disable the system? I check tire pressures regularly anyway. The continuous alert is agrivating.
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Our 1997 Grand Caravan with 170K loses more air conditioning every year. So, I assume I have a slow leak. Is recharging something I can do myself with the new type cans offered by auto parts stores? Also, I think the radiator fan no longer comes on, I never hear it and the engine temp will go up when driving slowly around town.
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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I just purchased a 2003 V10 with 270 000kms. The truck had had regular maintenance. It has an exhaust leak and runs a little bit rough. Could the exhaust leak cause the truck to run a little rough or am I dealing with another issue?
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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For about a week I started smelling gas. Checks things out and didn't see anything until today. It is the lone on top of the tank where the plastic piece (fuel pump?) connects to the hose. What is the size? The auto store has three generic replacements but said they don't know what size mine would be. Otherwise I have to take it off and bring it in and try to eyeball it. Not sure what the part is called, but is looks like some two piece clip.
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I recently pulled the head gaskets on my '98 RAM 1500's 360 Magnum and after two weeks of waiting on the machine shop I've put everything back in and to torque specs. After a battle with the starter ending in pulling all the shims I painstakingly marked I got it to fire up. But, it is now idling roughly. I burped the coolant system, checked the oil level and removed some as it was slightly overfilled.
I also had an exhaust leak so I checked torque specs on the exhaust manifold. All of this worked marginally but when I felt comfortable moving the vehicle I found that in gear with the throttle open it would sputter, idling it moves along just fine. The engine is pulling air weakly through the filter and I noticed it is blowing a little white smoke when given gas. My OBD2 reader doesn't pull up any codes, I'm at my wits end.
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I have a 01 Grand Prix GTP and there is a smell coming out of the vents when the heater is on. It smells like exhaust. What might be causing this?
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Started smelling exhaust in the cab while idling, and at startup. After further investigating found out the EGR inlet tube is leaking at the flex joint. So my question is , is there anything that will jump at me while I'm doing this tube replacement.
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Usually in the OBS 7.3 but a buddy of mine with a 2003 6.0 is having some issues. When he romps on the pedal but when he does so he claims he can smell exhaust in the ventilation system. I rode with him and smelt it as well. So I inspected all exhaust clamps and piping as best I could and did not notice any soot or leaks while running. I don't know if it pertains to it or not but his heater only works on defrost.
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I have been smelling raw exhaust in the cab, especially when the weather is colder and when standing still.
I took it to the dealer and in the process of fixing minor coolant and oil leaks on the turbo, they located a small exhaust leak with visible soot on the back side of the turbo.
They tell me that there is no way to repair it and that only Ford can rebuild or repair these turbos.
2011 SD 6.7
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I have a 2003 ford ranger 2.3 vin d 5 speed, this truck originally... Took it in for wires plugs front brakes fuel filter battery and added a small cold air intake. We discovered a valve cover leak and while repairing guy drops a screw into a valve and when finished he started it lodged the screw between the valve, shearing off a cam sprocket bolt. Throwing the timing. 2 valves on the exhaust side were bent and replaced. no damage to the head.
Timing was reset and the truck was running. 2 days later truck is running/had a hint of exhaust smell then started bogging dying and shaking, at which time we got an 02 bank2 lean code and fixed that. it cleared code and didn't fix it. From there we replaced coil, imrc intake bc of a crack, tried and check all vacuum, reset the timing. Timing would slip before but no longer than 10 minutes every time truck started.
Found the hole in the timing cover that holds the bolt to torque? to harmonic balancer was broke. replaced along with the diamond washers and cam sprocket bolts. timing finally held crank sensor was adjusted. truck came home for one day running good, we had removed the cold air intake and replaced the factory air intake. next day it was so slow outta first gear, you must baby the throttle, if you floor It, it sputters and kinda pops, truck stays slow all the way to about 10 mph and 2000rpm then it begins grabbing speed, 3000rpm is where this truck shifts the best, 2nd is better, third better than that.
As rpm increase the truck runs better, it idles steady at 1100-1200rpm at stops with an audible miss and then struggles again on takeoff. Here what im wondering, the truck has an abs sensor that just came on, but no codes showing now.tomorrow I wil run matko determinator 3.0 on it. and test the catalytic converter. first how do I check the timing belt to see if it stretched? do these trucks store the p.i.d.s. koer or kams that could cause one, all, or any of this and if so do I have to have it flashed from ford or can you manually do this without a drive cycle test.
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