My Dodge van makes a jerking/clunking knock under the vehicle when it comes to almost a complete stop. Feel strong inside the vehicle. If I break hard or gently that jerking/clunking knock will not happen- gotta hit and miss when I tried to control it.I am thinking of front brake which I must replace, it's pulsation occasionally....
View 11 RepliesIf I am moving in reverse and tap the brake I hear a clunk from the rear of the car. If I continue in reverse and then again apply the brake then no clunk. If I drive forward and stop, no clunk. If I then shift into reverse again and apply brake I get the clunk again. Had the struts/shocks replaced but no change.
View 5 Repliesthe other day i was driving with no music on my GS and i noticed every time i came to a complete stop, the brakes would produce a weird loud knock sound. it was rainning so i thought it would be from that... but then after driving it roughly 5-7miles the sound stopped... then since i noticed it, i hoped on my corolla to see if it had the same thing but no... only on my GS.. is this normal?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2008 LS460 17,000 miles. I hear what I would describe as a clunking sound and feeling when coming to a complete stop. The noise and feeling is similar to worn suspension bushings. I took the car into my local dealer. After inspection they advised me there is a problem with my car because they heard the noise and feeling like I described. They also stated there is "no fix yet" per a service bulletin for the described problem. They also stated they don't know when a fix will be available.
It appears to be getting worse and my advisor stated he has another customer that's been waiting some time now for a fix. I'd really like to know the service bulletin so I can follow through with the repair by simply asking "Are the parts available for service bulletin 1234 yet? Perhaps others are also struggling with the same symptoms and yet to find a fix.
I have this horrible metal clunking noise coming off of my front end. I just had new brakes put on the car and the mechanic said everything looked good around the assembly. But now when I am approaching to stop, right as I apply a bit more pressure to the brakes before stopping, I get a soft clunk inside the car... but I feel it through the pedal. When the windows are down and I am going slow enough, I can hear it clink (clink, not clunk). It's a very metal on metal sound.... I thought of my control arms, however there is no sound what-so-ever when I steer left to right....
View 4 RepliesI have 2000 Grand Caravan w/ 3.3L, AT. When warmed up, in stop and go traffic, at lights, or in reverse for parking, the idle speed drops, the oil light flickers and unless shifted to neutral, stalls. I've replaced the fuel pump and filter. I've adjusted the idle screw on the throttle body to 700 rpm, where it stays when the van is cold or when stopping in normal driving. Someone suggested the oil pump, and I added motor honey, but no change in symptoms. There are no vacumn leaks evident. How do I keep the idle from sagging? Would this be a sensor issue?
View 5 RepliesI get a grinding type of sound when I am braking but only when I come to a complete stop and then again when I release the brake. It is only for a second but it is loud and doesn't sound good. What could be wrong. It also is much worse when it rains.
View 4 RepliesUpon cranking my 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan and driving app. 10 miles the speedometer and odometer will stop working and the motor will sound strained for the rest of the driving time. The rpm's go up and it dies from time to time when making a quick stop or turn. It starts right back up. The next day upon starting again the process starts all over. What's the problem?
View 1 RepliesI am having a hard time locating a mechanical knock coming from my truck. This is not an engine knock but rather a clunking noise when I come to a slightly abrupt stop and sometimes when I take off or am steering. I have recently replaced my upper and lower ball joints and all the u-joints as well. My truck has a 6" Fabtech Coil over lift and a 3" body lift. The truck is also rather squeaky when going over speed bumps.
View 8 RepliesA few months ago, my van started jerking after about 45 minutes on the freeway. When it started jerking, the check engine light came on and the windshield wipers would come on just once. If I ignored it and kept driving, the jerking would become more frequent and violent until I pulled off the road and turned the car off, then back on. After turning it back on, everything would be normal again, sometimes until I finished my commute to work, sometimes it happened every 5-10 miles. Never any problem in town.
A few weeks later, and in addition to the previous stuff, when driving in town, the windshield wipers would come on just once when braking. That would happen a few times a day, with no check engine light and no other issues. Now, when you hit the brakes, in addition to the wipers coming on, sometimes the RPMs will drop until the engine dies. Today, it died 4 times in 10 minutes.
I've changed the very corroded ground strap from the block to the firewall, cleaned up the battery posts and cable connectors (dirty, but no corrosion), checked for corrosion in the wiring harness underneath the battery and I'm not finding anything.
When shifting gears, mainly in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd while the air conditioner is on I'm experiencing jerking / clunking. When I shift it's not a smooth movement and produces a thump. The only way to really avoid this is by letting the clutch out very very slowly. It only happens when the A/C is turned on. Shifting is perfect when the A/C is off.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 Grand Caravan 3.8 engine. For the last 2 months the oil light has been coming on when car is first started. If I stop engine and start again the light will be off. I don't think its actual oil pressure because the car runs fine with light on or off. I'm thinking a bad pressure sensor?
View 17 RepliesSometimes when I start my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 liter engine, the oil light comes on and stays on, even if I rev engine up. Engine sounds normal, does not sound like oil pressure is low. If I turn engine off and the immediately back on, light goes out and stays out. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit - didn't work. I hooked up a gauge - engine has 60 psi oil pressure at idle - plenty! I'm guessing an electrical problem in the circuit.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Grand Caravan, this winter has been a cold one. The GC has always started without problem but after I back out of my parking spot, it sits outside, I put it into Drive and it will not move and after I give it a little gas it would still not move. None of the gears seem to work, but if I wait a little bit and the Van warms a little more it will go into gear and all is good. This does not happen all the time and when it does go into gear and I drive I do not have anymore problems until the next time it will "act up" on me again. Is this a problem or is it a cold problem and not a transmission problem?
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 Dodge Grand caravan loses its gauges every so often. engine light comes on as well as ABS...
View 2 RepliesI got a great deal on this van, and I love it, with one exception. On hot days (73 degrees and hotter) the van will not start if it has been parked in the sun; until the temperature returns down to around 61 degrees (usually overnight, but I have waited it out in the parking lot at work a few times).
When this happens, the lights and radio work fine; the starter motor will not engage. No click, no chugga-chugga vroom-vroom. Sad Curto.
Note: October through about May in North Carolina, this car is fine.
I have replaced the steering column (after replacing the clock spring); I have replaced the Power Distribution Center.
When the problem first surfaced two years ago, I had a mechanic install a wire directly from the starter motor relay to the solenoid. That was an expensive lesson. I'm not sure what the lesson is, so it was REALLY expensive.
So, I thought maybe the Auto Shutdown Relay. Nope... pull that out, and the starter still turns, so that is not my problem. Now I am starting to thing Powertrain Control Module, or something else that could have a temperature-sensitive component.
My 06 2.0t has 73k on it. but i noticed at around 60k that when I brake, almost to the point where I'm stopping (like at a light) the car jerks or grabs...kinda like the tranny is catching or the brakes are grabbing. Twice I've asked vw to check and twice they've said they can't find anything wrong.
Warranty runs out at 75k, so I think I'm going to take it to AAMCO to have them check the tranny and see what they say.
I have a 2004 Saturn LW with 6 cylinders. For the past few months, but only about one or twice per month, my car has been clunking jerkily when changing gears. There is no pattern, except that it happens at slower speeds, say mostly under 40 MPH both forward and in reverse, sometimes when I put the car into gear and sometimes when it changes automatically. Yes, you have guessed it, whenever I take it in, it acts just fine, and no one can get it to duplicate the bahavior.
Oh, the dashboard the the light indicating necessary service comes on whenever the gears clunk and the car jerks, but when it behaves, no indicator light comes on.
I have about 114,000 miles on the car. do I just need new transmission fluid, or is my transmission getting shot? Am I stripping gears? do I really need to wait until the mechanic hears it? Everything could be utterly destroyed by then, right?
I have a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan with 120,000 miles. Starting at about 45mph the car has a really bad shimmy when accelerating. The shimmy fades starting at about 55 mph. There is no shimmy when not accelerating. Gently applying the breaks has no effect on the shimmy. I've put on new tires, Change the steering rack and struts and the engine and tranny mounts. what could be causing this?
View 2 RepliesI have a '09 Dodge caravan. The ABS, ESP, TCS, and Brake lights are on. As we drive along the brakes apply, probably on only wheel. After we stop, we can drive on for a short way and it happens again. A mechanic told us that the steering sensor was telling the computer that the steering wheel was turned all the way to the left. I wonder if I pulled the fuse for the ABS pump and ABS valve if it would be safe to drive, at least until we can get it to the dealer for repair. I am cheap and like to get by as cheaply as I can/. I am not fond of ABS, or TCS any way?
View 19 RepliesI have a 1993 Grand Caravan 3.3L V6. When I leave the van set for a couple a of days (or even overnight) and then start it, I have no oil pressure for a minute or so. After the engine has been running for about a minute or so the oil pressure finally comes up but not to normal. Once the engine has warmed up the oil pressure returns to what could be considered "normal". After the cold start, no oil pressure problem, the engine and the oil pressure is fine for the rest of the day. Let it even set overnight though and I have a repeat no oil pressure with start up.
I am thinking that there is a problem with the pick up tube not sealing properly and allowing the oil to bleed down while the engine is off for an extended period of time. So, in effect, I have to basically prime the oil pump at each start up. I haven't noticed any leaks of engine oil anywhere, so I am thinking that this is an internal problem. Is there a check valve or O-Ring associated with the pick up tube or oil pump that may cause this problem? Is it a fairly easy problem to correct? On this engine the oil pump is located in the front of the engine block behind the timing chain cover. (As best as I could determine from the Haynes Manual).