Today I noticed a knocking sound coming from what sounds like the front left (drivers side). When I accelerate and when I brake the sound stops. The sound also stops when I am going around a bend in the road as well as when I change lanes. When I am turning a corner I do not hear the sound.
View 2 RepliesI just had my van inspected and tires rotated...van sits for a few days then travels 20 miles and am now smelling something burning and smoke is coming out from front right tire. Other discussions say calipers/pads and that's ok BUT my question is since my van only has @24,000 on it, did the mechanic do something when he rotated my tires? I am a senior citizen and only use my van once a week.
View 6 RepliesI have an odd issue. I bought my car used from the dealer. The fuel pump was replaced last December, as well as had an oil change. The fuel pump died right after the oil change but are seemingly unrelated since the pump was bad when i bought it. After the pump was replaced my van stated acting up over the next couple days. The fuel gauge would dance randomly. That has since settled down. Now when i make left turns, the rpms drop and i have to pump the had to get it going again or else it completely stalls out in the middle of an intersection. .. it had been steadily getting more frequent and only on left turns. Right turns runs fine.
View 3 RepliesStarting about 100 miles ago I began getting a knocking sound from my left front wheel, which was not very noticeable at first, but now is. There is one knock with each rotation of the wheel that can be felt a little bit through the steering wheel. I suspect either the wheel bearings or a CV joint. But one thing confuses me--when under heavy acceleration or while braking, the sound & feeling almost completely disappear. I would not have guessed to get that behaviour from either of the 2 problems I suspect. Do one of these problems usually exhibit this kind of behaviour?
View 12 RepliesI am hearing a weird knocking with every rotation of the left front wheel and I know it is not the cv joints. I replaced the wheel bearings on the car a week ago . I think it maybe the brakes have got loose and hitting the rotor or the wheel might be loose but I'm not really sure and it knocks faster with acceleration.
View 7 Replies1998 Honda Civic EX, automatic transmission, 145K miles. Purchased three weeks ago.
Newly purchased used car has a knock emanating from the left front axle area. It's a rotational thumping/knocking sound that occurs about every 360 degrees of the tire rotation and only in forward and backward full-lock left turns. The car also has a small vibration/wobble in the left front. It's been narrowed down to the CV half axle outer bearing. What is puzzling is left front knocking from the outer CV joint is usually associated with full-lock right turns (and vice-versa) However, the left front knocking/thumping only happens as stated above (full-lock left turns).
Recent front end parts replaced:
1) Left front hub assembly and bearing
2) Inner and outer tie rods on both left and right sides
3) Front left caliper
4) New front brake pads on both left and right sides
5) Automatic transmission 3 x 3 drain and fill + Lubegard red
My 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan's most recent problem has baffled 2 garages so far. It is now in a 3rd one that specializes in auto electric issues. When I turn on the left signal it flashes a few times then the RIGHT side starts to flash. When I turn the right signal on you got it the LEFT side flashes! I installed a new multi function switch and NO CHANGE!
View 6 Replies2006 Sonata 2.4 GLS. My car has done 60000 miles and has developed a creaking/knocking (metal on metal clunk) sound at the left rear. it is only noticeable at low speeds when accelerating and decelerating in stop start traffic.
It is not the shock as I have removed the shock and driven the car and the noise is still there, I have also looked at all the bushes and nothing is obvious. I have also checked tightness of all bolts/nuts.
One tech wanted to replace both rotors and sanding down the pads to re-use (he said my brake pads can last up to one year). The guy in auto part said the surface of brake pads having hard spots could cause the pulsation, replace the pads. Of course, replace both rotors and pads is recommended but I have tight budget! What options do I have? can I just machine the rotors?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2000 grand caravan that has no reverse. When the problem started, it had no forward or reverse and a low ticking sound in reverse. Had it towed to the house where it sat for months. Decided to remove and charge battery and start engine. To my surprise, when i started the van and shifted into drive, the van moved forward and trans would hold even when brake applied without slipping. When i shifted into reverse, i had nothing but a low ticking or knocking noise. Does this sound familiar. Could it be an axle problem or a definite transmission failure.
View 4 RepliesIn cold weather, front suspension is very noisy. I've replaced stabilizer bar bushings, stabilizer bar links, control arms (complete with new bushings and ball joints). A few months prior, I replaced struts with Monroe quick struts. Noise appears when I hit a pot hole or go over a speed bump. Not really a creaking, almost like a slapping sound. I've taken a look at motor mounts and they look OK. Now that the weather is warm there's no noise. Rack and pinion were replaced about a year ago so engine cradle was removed. I removed it and reinstalled. Also installed new tie rod ends and lubed the inner tie rod joints.
View 3 RepliesSounds like an old police car siren but only about 10 % of my driving time and usually late evening hours...
View 4 RepliesOur son's van transmission makes a clunk sound when it downshifts while slowing for a stoplight. Sign of a serious problem? Transaxle?
View 1 RepliesI have a weird problem with the radio in our 2008 Grand Caravan.About 2 or 3 weeks ago, the sound just stopped. The radio display still worked, time, channel, volume, just no sound.The sound would come back after the vehicle had been turned off for awhile, then go away again after some time.Now it's starting doing something even stranger... The sound will die, sometimes static with volume control, sometimes no static, no volume. It comes and goes, the radio works fine one day for an hour or so, then dies. Some days, it doesn't work at all.
View 3 RepliesMy car's heat gauge reaches to half and then stays there for the rest of the ride. When it reaches at/close to half, only then I hear a knocking sound while accelerating. However, if I press the accelerator only slightly OR full way down, then sound goes away. What is wrong with my vehicle? I have Dodge grand caravan 2006... (It has run 400000 miles)?
View 4 RepliesMy 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan has a sound metallic rattling at about transaxle area (I am not sure if it's a transaxle issue) when it's cold but when it's at operating temperature, I don't hear it anymore. Fluid level is correct and clean, I just have the fluid changed. Shifting is fine, just annoying sound, not loud but it can be heard easily.
View 4 RepliesSometimes when I start my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 liter engine, the oil light comes on and stays on, even if I rev engine up. Engine sounds normal, does not sound like oil pressure is low. If I turn engine off and the immediately back on, light goes out and stays out. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit - didn't work. I hooked up a gauge - engine has 60 psi oil pressure at idle - plenty! I'm guessing an electrical problem in the circuit.
View 4 RepliesI replaced the starter in my 2001 dodge grand caravan two days ago with a brand new TYC 1-17784 starter motor. It starts fine the only thing is that it has a higher pitched sound when starts. There is no grinding noise and the high pitched sound does not continue once the engine is started. The starter did not come with a shim but I used the shim from the old starter. I am wondering if maybe the sound will go away once it gets 'worn in' or perhaps this is a non issue that I shouldn't be worried about.
View 4 RepliesI know if you smell antifreeze when you turn on the heater that is a bad thing. I don't have this issue, but when I walk into the garage after my wife turns off the van I get a whiff of what smells like antifreeze. There isn't a leak that I can find and nothing on the floor the garage out the normal.
2006 Dodge Grand Caravan 80K miles
I have a 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan with about 160,000 miles on it. The front end has been deteriorating steadily for some time now. I have no power brakes or power steering, but I do not think that this is related to my REAL problem: My driver side CV joint (or axle or whatever) failed last week. Upon inspection, my mechanic commented on how he was surprised that it held on long enough for me to get to his shop. It was replaced by a mechanic with a new (not re-manufactured) piece.Yesterday I was driving a friend to the airport about 150 miles away, and 20 miles out of town, my van began wobbling in the front, and then shaking violently - consistent with my previous CV failure.
After dropping my friend off at the airport, I proceeded to the nearest mechanic, who again commented on how he was surprised that I was able to make it to his shop. He said something about the last CV joint being too long or something against a tulip joint (or something, I should have written it down).Initially it drove smoothly, as it did after the first fix, but on the way home I noticed a slight wobble that is connected to acceleration (that is, when I take my foot off of the gas, the wobble disappears). I am concerned that the CV is going to fail again. What would be causing this? Are the mechanics at fault, or is there another problem that propagates in the CV?
Short Version. 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan, I two weeks ago I replaced the front brakes (rotors, calipers, and pads both sides) I drove the van 100 miles Saturday night with no problems. Sunday afternoon, whilst driving home from a restaurant with 5 people in the van (driving super gingerly because they were my inlaws) the right front brake stuck on and smoked on the drive home. The calipers are new, and I have not had any other problems since I replaced the brakes that were trashed when I got it.
Long version, So heres the deal, I am the proud owner of a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan, its got about 140,000 miles on it, its a little rusty, but I got it for free. A family member was getting rid of it, as it was 11 years old, and they wanted something newer, and it needed brakes and a few other things. They were going to donate it, but it sat all winter waiting for the donation company to pick it up. Being a consummate grease monkey elite shade tree mechanic tinkerer type, and being in the new family, new house cash flow situation, I swooped in and towed it home in hopes that I could make a decent enough ride that I could fit two adults, a car seat and a dog into.
Now when I got the van I knew it had some problems. That's the reason it was free. But it is/was all fixable stuff. Typical of age and mileage It had a whiny power steering pump, it needed an oil change, the power steering lines leaked, the transmission cooler lines needed to be replaced. It needed a serpentine belt. It has a motor mount that needs replacing. The front suspension clunked because of worn out swaybar bushings and end link Its a bunch of work and few weekends and a few hundred in parts, but when the van was free, and you do the work yourself it costs a lot less.
The front brakes were completely trashed when I got the van, that is one of the reasons that the previous owner had parked it. And it was obvious that the right front caliper had seized, I could not push the piston back in. And that was the one that seized on, and had the most damages so I replaced it, along with the left front, as it was also the original one, and well they were both the same age, and have the stuff to bleed the brakes out. So what causes disk brake calipers to randomly stick on when they are used gently? Because when I drive it angry, such as now, they seem fine.