Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 2005 - Whining Noise When Accelerator Pressed?
Aug 12, 2013
Driving our 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan which we love. We have 118,000 miles on the odometer now and a dent or two but otherwise it's in great shape. About 2 years ago, we started to notice a high-pitched "whining" noise on our way from Michigan's Upper Peninsula to Florida. We were driving in the fall in the lovely Smoky Mountains. The weather was hot, the air conditioning on and the van working hard to climb the mountains. We stopped for gas, and then as we started driving again noticed this whining noise when pressing on the accelerator.
The noise did not stop until the next morning when the car was completely cool, but started again when it heated up. This whining continues to happen every time the car is driven long distances/gets very warm. Our Michigan mechanic thought it was the alternator and replaced the alternator and coolant tube in 8/2012 but that did not work. Our mechanic flushed the transmission and replaced the fluid in 5/2013 but that did not work. Neither of them could tell us what causes this noise. Should we just continue to drive it this way or go to another shop?
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My car's heat gauge reaches to half and then stays there for the rest of the ride. When it reaches at/close to half, only then I hear a knocking sound while accelerating. However, if I press the accelerator only slightly OR full way down, then sound goes away. What is wrong with my vehicle? I have Dodge grand caravan 2006... (It has run 400000 miles)?
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Sounds like an old police car siren but only about 10 % of my driving time and usually late evening hours...
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I just drove away in a new 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan - had 106 miles when I took title at the dealership - and immediately noticed the most annoying high pitched whine or whistle. It seems to occur under 2000 RPMs and starts around 25mph. It continues until about 45 mps and then either becomes less audible behind the engine noise or stops - hard to tell. When the car slows down, it comes back -- most of the time. It changes in pitch as the car goes faster and as it slows down.
It has been so loud at times that I think it's a police or ambulance siren and I have gotten ready to pull over. It does not happen in neutral when I rev the engine - the car has to be moving. Turning the wheels doesn't seem to make a difference. I am going to take it in to the dealer but I suspect they will just laugh and say that's how the car sounds. I've never had a car that had such an annoying soundtrack - and I've rented about 5 of these minivans over the past 3 years and never experienced this, either.
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Just Bought an 05 Passat 1.8T about month ago. It has 80k miles on it. I was driving down a road going about 40 mph and all of the sudden the engine is not responding to the pressing of the accelerator, everything else was normal. So I coast into a nearby parking lot. Car won't start, all lights come on and but would not turnover. Got it towed, few days go by, now car turns over but immediately dies.
No codes read on it. The dealership will not cover a diagnostic or anything fuel related.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan that is having multiple electrical issues. The problem first starts to show with the instrument panel needles going all the way to the right and coming back to the left. Some of the instrument lights stay lit. Then either in the next few minutes or days, the engine will shut off while driving. I can wait 30 seconds and sometimes it will start. After this sequence occurs, when I turn the key, the instrument lights will come on for a millisecond and then the engine will not start at all. I take it into the dealer and they say that the battery is severely discharged. They charge up the battery and the problem goes away for 1500-3000 miles. Of course, the dealer does not know what is causing the problem.
It seems like one of the issues could be a defective ignition switch, but what I can't figure out is what is causing the battery to severely discharge?I have removed the BMC fuse, waited 30 seconds and this would allow the vehicle to start, but I have stopped trying this approach because it does not remedy the situation long term.
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2006, 112k mi. there's been a whine-like noise that only happens when the accelerator is pressed ( and mostly noticed at highway speeds) and stops immediately when accelerator is released..
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On our 2005 Grand Caravan with 165K miles, the back liftgate has worked fine for years. It continues to raise properly but now it suddenly decided to reverse about one third of the way down when closing button is pushed. Both struts were replaced 3 years ago with the liftgate working fine until now. I don't see any obstructions on gate or in the mechanism.
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My van has 90,000 miles. I am having problems with my headlights not turning on, then when they finally turn on, they will go off randomly. My power door locks have also stopped working. Last night, I found my tail light cover has come off. How can I put that back on? Lastly, my heater only works for a minute, then the air is cold.
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In May of this year (2015), it started to die. What I mean is it loses all electrics and it kills the engine. No dash lights, no odometer, no headlights, no radio, no blower, no electric windows, no electric locks, no interior lights, no visable sign that it has power at all except a tiny red light on the dash that blinks every few seconds.Always at low speeds under 30mph, usually while under load from either being on the freeway for a bit or while the AC was running or both. If I wait long enough, it comes back on all by itself but this can take seconds or hours. The radio is not reset, which is the only other indication that the battery terminals are not at fault. I am getting power to the starter, but nothing else.
When it first started happening, we thought it was a fuse or relay and swapped out several, but while it was dead, nothing affected it. It only happened three times until July when it stepped up its game and would die multiple times a day.Under advice of a shadetree mechanic, we replaced the Powertrain control Module (PCM) located behind the front bumper under the driver side headlight. This seemed to solve the problem for almost a month when the water pump decided to fail and we replaced it, the thermostat and radiator fan thermometer, only for it to die exactly as before only the very next day.The shop ran it until it died, took the pcm off and checked to see if it was overheating, but it wasnt. They checked the battery cables, fuses and anything else they could think of.
I got it it back at the beginning of October and on its first night out it died twice. I was driving it and noticed that it was a hot muggy day about 80F and because I was wary of it dying I chose not to run the AC, but the air coming from the vents was still quite cold. First time it died we popped the hood and the Eatx shutdown relay was hot enough to fry an egg. I replaced it with a spare I had, and all the systems in the van sprang back to life. It made it a mile before dying again and this time the new relay was hot, but all I did was wiggle it and back to life it went. Drove it 12 more miles home, then the next day back to the shop without incident.
I went to talk with the shop a couple days ago, because I really need this thing fixed but they are not sure what to do next. I told them about the AC running even while off and so we pulled the fuse for the AC clutch entirely. I ran it around for twenty minutes and even with the temp on the dash at normal hot position center of the gauge and blower at full tilt and set to hot with AC off, I had the coldest air until I hit a bump and suddenly I had hot air. Thinking the AC clutch was seized I took it back to the shop, verified that the compressor wasnt working anymore while engine was running and thought we may have fixed the issue.
Three days later, I have driven it all over with no issue, only for it to now die twice in a mile all within a mile of home. On the way home, the heater wasn't blowing as hot as it could be, until I almost made it to my freeway exit, by then I was worried that it was going to die after I had slowed down to the side road speed which it did happen.
I opened the driver door to get out and that was all the jarring it took to turn everything back on, the second time I had popped the hood and was reaching for the clips to the fuse cover to check the eatx shutdown relay when it all came back on. The relay was no warmer than the relay for the fuel pump. Between the first and second event, I could feel it hesitating every few seconds like it was about to lose power. After the second event I was so close to home I may have been a little lead-footed and did not notice.
Addendum: The bellows in the interior heater broke back on Valentine's day, so no matter what the dial it set to, it only blows out the upper body vents on the dash. The radio has an issue that it can no longer play tapes and one of the speakers is mostly silent. I wondered if either of these were shorting out and causing issue.
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Ford Explorer has been making horrible noise (constant whine when accelerator is pressed)... The mechanic said he found metal in the power steering fluid and told me we need to replace the power steering pump and the rack & pinion system. Is he right about this? He said you can't replace one without the other... I've done a little research and I think we can get away with a new pump.
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Took our 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan to a tire shop today. One sensor battery is completely dead, and when replaced, the other 3 batteries were too weak remove the alert from the information panel. Cost to repair all 4 is $400. Decided to live with the alert and they graciously put the bad sensor back in. Is there any way to disable the system? I check tire pressures regularly anyway. The continuous alert is agrivating.
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If I am moving in reverse and tap the brake I hear a clunk from the rear of the car. If I continue in reverse and then again apply the brake then no clunk. If I drive forward and stop, no clunk. If I then shift into reverse again and apply brake I get the clunk again. Had the struts/shocks replaced but no change.
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Sometimes I'll walk my wife out to the garage in the morning when she is leaving for work. When she starts up her 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan FWD sto n go I hear a clicking noise for about 2 seconds. To me it sounds like the lifters prior to getting the oil delivery. I was wondering if that was going to eventually cause some engine damage and also if there is a problem with the oil pump or something like that. Is this a problem that I should check into or is this normal for this van. We hit a deer several months ago and the whole front end was wasted. I don't remember hearing this clicking sound when the van was newer.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Yaris with 35,000 miles, and fully up-to-date with all the 5,000-mile usual maintenance checks [no prior problems]. Driving on a hot day, I hit Bakersfield and the car started to make a high-pitched whining noise, which got louder with the accelerator and softer when I took my foot off the gas. I thought perhaps the car was overheating and let it rest for a while, and checked the coolant [which was at a normal level]. I finished the drive to LA and stopped by the Toyota dealer who said it must have just been the fan given the hot weather.
The noise went away overnight, but the next day I was driving around town when it was overcast and cool, and even driving locally, the car made the whining noise intermittently, especially loud at low speeds like coasting in a parking lot, and the noise has been getting louder and sounding more pathological--not like a normal engine or fan noise, but like a truly problematic high-pitched straining sound. Sometimes it comes on when I start the car, sometimes restarting the car makes the noise go away for an hour or two.
It sounds almost like an electric razor being whipped around like a numchuck - a hitch pitched whine that is rotating in the engine and speeds up with the accelerator and calms down but doesn't go away at a stoplight. Perhaps I finally ran over my neighbor's annoying kitty. But today's latest Toyota mechanic also couldn't figure it out because the noise didn't start when he turned on the car and didn't restart on his test drive, but only a few hours later after I'd driven the car around town.
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I recently had to replace my drive belt on a 97' dodge grand caravan sport 3.3 engine. The belt shredded and this is how i knew i had to replace it. Since i replaced it i notice a whine type of noise that increases in pitch as the engine is accelerated. The other thing I've noticed is that all electrically related operations work better as it is accelerated. For example, the air blows harder, the wipers move faster, and the lights brighten. Now i honestly can't say that it didn't do this before i changed the belt. I wonder if a bearing is going out on a pulley. I have noticed the same behavior on my daughters 98 sable. Also note that i did get all of the pieces of the old belt out from the pulleys and i did spin each of them to make sure the were moving without any resistance.
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I recently bought an 07 Dodge Grand Caravan and noticed that when we shut the rear door(trunk? hatch? whatchamacallit?) it makes an incredibly loud noise...almost like a gunshot. It seems as though the back glass is lifting off a bit and then slamming down. Is that something I can fix on my own?
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Ok, this has happened to me and my wife while driving. During braking, once in a while the engine will shut off for a split second then turn right back on without me doing anything. We only have 1 other key on the key ring with the ignition key. Also the inside lights (dashboard/radio) flicker once in a while. The alternator is charging 14 volts, the battery checks out. When it shut off while my wife was driving she noticed the instrument panel lights came on for a second (like when you start the car {abs-check engine- temp- all the warning lights}) and the instruments bounced all the way up then down (also like when you first start the car)...
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If I'm at part throttle and i press the clutch pedal in about 2-3 inches, leaving the clutch still fully engaged, i can feel a really rough vibration in the clutch pedal. it stops vibrating as soon as i let off the gas. and i'm only giving it a little bit of gas, mind you.
If I'm at idle, and i have the clutch depressed all the way and rev the engine, I can feel vibration in the clutch pedal. My 6-speed MK4 did not do this, not in the slightest. Is this normal for MK6 or do I have a problem?
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My son was driving our 02 Santa fe 2.7 V6 Auto down to plymouth, half way down the engine gave a clinking sound (Rev Dependent). When he was doing 60MPH and pressed accelerator, no power. Stopped at road side couldn't restart. (no warning lights) RAC turned up and thought it was the cam belt and said engine right off. Got car towed home and just started to strip down for cam belt check. Belt seems OK. Timing marks line up.
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I've noticed lately that my Mk4 Jetta isn't accelerating the way it used to. It's an '03 5-speed 2.0L, and while the engine idles more or less normally as far as I can tell, when the car is in gear and I press the accelerator, it shudders and "slips", like an an automatic with a bad transmission.
I've checked things out with my OBD2 reader and it's not reporting any codes, no trouble indicator lights, etc., but it's definitely not responding the way it should. I just had it in for a tune-up recently, thinking it was an engine problem, but I don't think that fixed it.
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