Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 2003 - Stalling In Reverse And First Gear
Sep 14, 2014
Our '03 Dodge Grand Caravan has been stalling sometimes in reverse and in first gear when starting to move. This usually only occurs if we hadn't yet driven it that day, or if it has completely cooled.
Put it in reverse and give it a little gas to get out of the spot, turn the wheel, and it stalls.. Park - Restart - Drive, and any attempt to press the gas normally probably results in stalling again. This presents a problem as I get to a stop sign and it stalls while in the middle of an intersection...so there is danger to this problem.
The only way I have found to somewhat thwart the problem is to ever so lightly feather the gas, and I mean I don't even push it, I tap-tap-tap it. This usually results in not stalling, but a slight lunge in acceleration.
There is a check engine light on and the code is for the emissions Evap. solenoid. Does this have anything to do with it? If not, what the heck is going on?!
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If I am moving in reverse and tap the brake I hear a clunk from the rear of the car. If I continue in reverse and then again apply the brake then no clunk. If I drive forward and stop, no clunk. If I then shift into reverse again and apply brake I get the clunk again. Had the struts/shocks replaced but no change.
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On our 2005 Grand Caravan with 165K miles, the back liftgate has worked fine for years. It continues to raise properly but now it suddenly decided to reverse about one third of the way down when closing button is pushed. Both struts were replaced 3 years ago with the liftgate working fine until now. I don't see any obstructions on gate or in the mechanism.
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I have a 2000 grand caravan that has no reverse. When the problem started, it had no forward or reverse and a low ticking sound in reverse. Had it towed to the house where it sat for months. Decided to remove and charge battery and start engine. To my surprise, when i started the van and shifted into drive, the van moved forward and trans would hold even when brake applied without slipping. When i shifted into reverse, i had nothing but a low ticking or knocking noise. Does this sound familiar. Could it be an axle problem or a definite transmission failure.
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I am considering buying a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan with a reported transmission problem. Mileage is around 120k, and the price MIGHT be reasonable even if a trans rebuild would be necessary. I have not seen the vehicle yet, so I'm not yet committed to anything.
Seller claims the car shifts just fine going forward but will not move in reverse. Is this immediately clear that rebuild is going to be necessary? Are there less invasive repairs possible such as valves or controls or other parts which might solve this problem?
I suppose a Caravan transmission at 120,000miles is probably nearing the end of its lifetime, at least that was true of older ones. But like I said, the price is low enough that the cost of a rebuild might be justifiable if all else about the vehicle looks good. I want to have a better sense of the prospects before I invest time in going to look at this...it's about 50 miles away. I have a local transmission shop that I trust and which has reasonable prices
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I have a 04 grand caravan 3.8 liter. after filling up with gas & only after filling up i have a prob with the way the van runs. it will start and idle fine but once i shift in to gear and try to drive it starts to buck. if i take my foot off the gas it wants to stall. if i shift in to N or park the RPMs are around 400/500. if i rev the motor in N or park it will smooth out and idle fine and drive fine until the next fill up, then it starts all over again.
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We have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan which keeps on shutting off or sometimes will not start up. When it has problems starting up, there is no turn over of the engine. Just nothing. After awhile, it will start up. During driving, it will just shut off. At first it would start right back up but now it will not start right back up. We have replaced the computer and the crank shaft sensor. We have taken it to two dealerships and they do not have any ideas as to how to fix it beyond what we have done. Our mechanic is baffled. He has checked the wiring and sensors but cannot find the problem.
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2003 Dodge Caravan Sport has a metallic rattle near the alternator. It gets louder when it is in Drive or Reverse and you have your foot on the brake. Also, it gets even louder when having your foot on the brake in Drive or Reverse and the heat or air is on. My husband thought it was the power steering pump so we replaced that but it didn't fix it.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan. This week I encountered the following:
First Symptoms:
1.Red Battery Light
2.Check Engine Light
Action Taken: Since car is 9 years old with original battery, I replaced battery. Boy, that battery was really good.
Symptoms observed after battery installed
1.Red Battery Light
2.Check Engine Light
3.0 reading on Engine Temperature
Action Taken: Tightened battery cable nut and red battery light went out. Took car to local mechanic who found and reported –“Code 1478/Battery Temp Sensor, tested/was overvoltage allowed (4.9 for more than 3.2 seconds). Sensor located internally in PCM. PCM will have to be replaced.”
Symptoms observed on drive home: Drove car home. On the way, the battery and check engine lights went out. Engine coolant temperature came up ¼ scale. Cruise control would not work. Later, during drive, the battery and check engine lights came back on, cruise control continued to be nonfunctional, engine temperature gauge went to 0.
Action Taken: Took car to local dealer who replaced the PCM at a cost of $605 for the part and $135 for labor.
Subsequent Observations: After 45 miles on the drive home the check engine light came on.The car was driven 2 days later. Battery light came on for about 5 miles then went off; check engine light remained on for the entire drive (~40 miles); cruise control remained nonfunctional and coolant temperature indicator read about ¼ scale.
What is/are the likely cause(s) of all these problems and what can I do? We've had very few problems with this car to this point, but these issues are really getting expensive fast.
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I'm having Dodge Neon 2000 manual transmission. Suddenly the reverse gear stopped working (others working). I got it towed to my regular mechanic (used to charge comparatively lower than other local shops) and he said one of the shifter cable is broken and other one is stretched. Need too replace them. Is it worth it? (It's an old car and recently I've been spending a lot on this).
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03 Camry. 117,000 miles. 4cyl. Jerks and gives stalling feeling when in reverse, idle at stop lights and during initial acceleration. Feels like it is going to shut off. No major noises. No check engine light on. Car was fine when I bought it 2 months ago, just started this 3 days ago.
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Why my 03 focus zx5 will stall in reverse. I have had the tranny serviced. I can drive it and then let it sit for about an hour and then try to reverse in it and it dies. I have change the mac, tps, iac sensors. I am at a loss for why this is happening. I also changed the pvc hose that runs from the back of the motor to the pvc valve.
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I have a 2.7L flex fuel Dodge Stratus with 120K+ miles on it and a problem local mechanics and the Dodge dealership cannot seem to locate. When the engine is hot, and only when it's hot, the car will jerk suddenly while driving for a split second, then resume normal operations. It feels almost like you hit something and is scaring the bejeesus out of my wife. It also sometimes stalls out when at a light after sitting at idle for a few seconds. It idles down from 600 RPM like the air conditioning compressor is cutting on and then dies completely.
The car shows no error codes and the check engine light does not come on when this happens. I have replaced the spark plugs, and the transmission solenoid, which is what the Dodge dealer said "fixed" the car for almost $900, and it did it again on the way home from the dealership. My next idea was to change the fuel filter, or maybe the cam position sensor or timing belt or chain. I wonder if I am just trowing money down a hole at this point though, since Kelly Blue Book on this car is under 2K anyway.
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2003 Dodge Durango 4wd, 4.7 liter, 130,000 miles ... I'm having a problem with stalling. First started about 3 months ago, when I would come to a stop, the rpm's would fall off drastically, but would rebound right away. About a week later, it would actually stall, but I could start it without a problem. Took it to a local shop where they said my cam sensor needed replacement. That was done and it ran good for about 2 weeks when the same thing started again.
Took it back to the same shop and they told me that the cam sensor had gone bad or the sensor that had been put in was faulty. They replaced it at no charge to me, but they said that the crank sensor needed to be flashed and that had to be done by the dealer. So off to the dealer I went, and they told me that the crank sensor needed to be replaced not flashed. I had them do that and it ran good for about 2 weeks again and now it's starting to stall again.
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My 2003 dodge dakota with 6cyl fi stalls while doing 3 point turns or backing into parking spots. It also recently has a new problem. If I drive the truck for only a few minutes and turn it off I have a hard time getting it started again. It sounds like it wants to start but just barely can't.
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2002 f150 7700 with 5.4 triton and 4r100 tranny started chugging under acceleration and now stalls when put in D, 2 or 1. park and neutral are fine and reverse works perfectly.
Now when I put it in drive it chugs and stalls immediately... 1/10 times it will keep running but chug violently like its running out of gas. will get worse and stall if you press the gas. i can light the tires up for a block in reverse however.
Changed coils 1 2 and 3, IAC, bank 1 knock sensor, camshaft position sensor
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This just started happening last week. When I put the truck into reverse, the engine lugs down and dies. It' as if the AT is fully engaging reverse gear with no clutching action. If give the truck a bit of pedal, I can put her in reverse and back up without issue. Going forward into Drive has no issues.
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I recently got a 2wd 1994 150 straight 6 4.9L, It's been a great truck so far. It drove from New Mexico to California with no issues. Just this morning it started stalling and dying when pulling up to stop lights and putting it in reverse. The truck has 172,000 miles and has a new serp belt, alternator, radiator, and starter. It seems to run just fine on the highway and once it's warmed up it doesn't stall as easily. There is an exaust leak.
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I have a 2004 Grand Caravan 3.8 engine. For the last 2 months the oil light has been coming on when car is first started. If I stop engine and start again the light will be off. I don't think its actual oil pressure because the car runs fine with light on or off. I'm thinking a bad pressure sensor?
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Sometimes when I start my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 liter engine, the oil light comes on and stays on, even if I rev engine up. Engine sounds normal, does not sound like oil pressure is low. If I turn engine off and the immediately back on, light goes out and stays out. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit - didn't work. I hooked up a gauge - engine has 60 psi oil pressure at idle - plenty! I'm guessing an electrical problem in the circuit.
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I have a 2005 Grand Caravan, this winter has been a cold one. The GC has always started without problem but after I back out of my parking spot, it sits outside, I put it into Drive and it will not move and after I give it a little gas it would still not move. None of the gears seem to work, but if I wait a little bit and the Van warms a little more it will go into gear and all is good. This does not happen all the time and when it does go into gear and I drive I do not have anymore problems until the next time it will "act up" on me again. Is this a problem or is it a cold problem and not a transmission problem?
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