Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 2001 - Starts Intermittently - Dash And Blinker Totally Went Out
Mar 11, 2013
I have a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan that has some intermittent starting issues.
Symptoms: put key in, dash lights up. turn key, 1 "click", and then nothing, won't start, no extended clicking or anything. Sometimes it will start after a few tries, sometimes come back later and it works. Battery also seems to drain relatively quickly sitting, and so sometimes needs to be jumped if sitting for a few days.
Also, had a really strange experience where after it had to be jumped while driving, the dash and blinker totally went out, but car kept running. This happened a couple of times. I suspected something with the battery, so I had it tested and it checked out OK. Also, cleaned the terminals/battery cables w/ cleaner, wire brush, steel wool and sprayed some corrosion prevention stuff on there. It did need to be cleaned, but, alas, the problem continues.
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My 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan has intermittent trouble starting. The starter has been replaced twice, and the WIN Module (and key) have been replaced. The same issue has been occuring, but never duplicates for the dealership. Their computer scan brings up no issues. The battery has been tested and is in good condition. It doesn't matter the time of day, or driving circumstances, the van will not always start.
It will have one click (and I can close the windows, turn on radio) but the van will not start. The Chrysler Dodge corporate office is getting me nowhere (big surprise there) and is not standing behind their customers-and Lampe Dodge is no better-so now I'm compiling information on my own to figure out the issue (since they are at a standstill with the van). What should I do now?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan. The blinkers have stopped working...sometimes. Sometimes I put the right blinker on and the left starts blinking, sometimes both left and right work normally, but most of the time neither work. The hazards work all of the time. What I should do, or where to begin.
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I have a 04 grand caravan 3.8 liter. after filling up with gas & only after filling up i have a prob with the way the van runs. it will start and idle fine but once i shift in to gear and try to drive it starts to buck. if i take my foot off the gas it wants to stall. if i shift in to N or park the RPMs are around 400/500. if i rev the motor in N or park it will smooth out and idle fine and drive fine until the next fill up, then it starts all over again.
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OK so I have a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 with 125,000 miles. Recently about a month or so ago I began having a starting issue. Basically what happens is that when I go to start the car, all I get is one click. The engine does not crank at all. Now this will only happen once or twice in a row and then when I try to start it again the car will start fine and it does not have any issues at all.
This will sometimes happen 4-5 times in one day and then it works perfect for a week or two before it starts acting up again. Two weeks ago when I had this issue, I took it to have the battery, alternator and starter tested. Supposedly they all were good except the battery had a lot of corrosion around it. I cleaned the corrosion off and it started fine for 2 weeks straight before it started acting up again yesterday and today. I am worried that it will get to a point where it wont start at all. The battery was last replaced in December 2011.
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This Dakota has the 3.9 with about 240.000 miles. New battery and Alternator within the last 18 months.
The other day after driving about 12 miles the chime "Check Gauges" come on and I noted that the voltage gauge on the dash was buried at Max.Pulled over shut off the truck and popped the hood. No visible problems. Got back in, started the engine and the gauge went back to it's normal position. I had expected to see smoke from the alternator or the battery blown to pieces from the overload. I also noted that there was no excess heat at the alternator or battery.
I picked up my DVM from the shop to carry along and have driven at least 5 trips over 15 miles since. Today the same problem occurred, but by the time I pulled into a close-by parking lot the meter went back to normal. I checked the voltage at the battery and had 13.25 volts with the engine off and 14.40 volts with the engine running. I drove another 40 miles with no problems.
Tomorrow I plan to run a lead from the battery into the cabin, so I can monitor the voltage quicker if the problem reappears.
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Dad's 2000 F150 5.4 ltr will start intermittently, when it does fire it runs fine, but right after start up all the dash gauges "spike" to the max levels for a sec and then go back down to normal....
Put the Cen-Tec 98614 code reader on and it continues to say "Link error" and I can't communicate to the interface. P.S., I confirmed the Code reader is good by pulling a 420 O2 sensor code from my Toyota in just a few seconds....
I can hear the fuel pump kick in so I doubt that is the culprit. Because of the gauge spike at start up (every time) this problem screams grounding problem, but I don't know where to start. Could it be a faulty relay?
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Early this morning, after a night of freezing rain, i noticed the rear wipers running even though the car/ignition/wiper switch were all off. truck had not been started in over 24 hours. was unable to stop motor from running except only by disconnecting battery lead terminal. on trip to local mechanic hours later, motor would not stop, except when I turned-on front wipers -- then the rear motor would immediately stop at whatever position wiper blade was in. motor would not park blade. only tripping the front (separate) wiper switch would interrupt power to rear wiper motor. At mechanic, problem would not reappear. learned later that similarly, the front wipers would not quit two weeks earlier. at that time, the front wipers eventually stopped some time after ignition was killed and vehicle sat idle with all switches off. Common thread is problem appears during rain storms and does not manifest during dry times.
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So my 05 Mazda 6 was in a small fender bender several months back. One of the items that had to be replaced was the right headlight assembly. Once we got it back from the shop we noticed almost immediately that the right turn signal was working intermittently. We took it back to the shop and they said the assembly was defective so they replaced it and it worked fine for a few days. But then the intermittent problem started again. I didn't have an opportunity to take it back to the shop so we just deal with it. My state inspection is coming up soon and it won't pass if the light doesn't work. I kinda think the headlight assbly is the wrong model. It has a small led looking light in it that is on when the marker lights are on that the other original doesn't have.
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I have a 2001 F350 V10 Crew Cab that has 51000 miles on it so it doesn't get driven all that much, but I do start it at least once a week and it has always started on the first crank.
A couple weeks ago I drove over a friends, I backed up her driveway, turned the truck off and went inside. After returning I went to start the truck and it wouldn't start, just cranked. Probably had between 1/4 and 1/2 full.
I let it coast down to the level and it still wouldn't start. Finally had it towed home. When I got home I tried it and it started right up. Next day it just cranked and wouldn't start. The day after it started right up, I ran it for 20 minutes, turned it off, tried to start it and it just cranked....
Then I started looking at forum's for a possible answer.
I already had an IAC that I bought a few months ago since it was idling a little rough that I installed. Still started intermittently.
When I listen closely when I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key it starts right up, when I can't hear the pump it won't start.
I have tried moving the relays around that are in the fuse panel on the drivers side hood, moving the fuel pump one to the blower motor and vice versa. Still starts intermittently and only when I hear the pump run.
I looked for the FPDM that in some trucks is up by the spare tire but apparently my truck doesn't have one, or at least in that location..
My next thought is that it must be a bad pump...Can a bad fuel pump act like this, sometimes work and sometimes not?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai elantra GT. Since I've got the car last year I've had this intermittent problem with the dash lights coming on every once in a while not really a lot at all. It never bothered me before because they would come on for maybe two minutes then turn off and didn't cause any problems whatsoever.? I think because they were coming on during the day. I never realized it happening at night time. In the last month the lights came on at night time and blew out all my headlights. I replaced them three times already. I read that maybe the alternator is overcharging. I haven't checked anything yet.. I'm very mechanically inclined. Just not with electrical...
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I have a 2004 Grand Caravan 3.8 engine. For the last 2 months the oil light has been coming on when car is first started. If I stop engine and start again the light will be off. I don't think its actual oil pressure because the car runs fine with light on or off. I'm thinking a bad pressure sensor?
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Sometimes when I start my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 liter engine, the oil light comes on and stays on, even if I rev engine up. Engine sounds normal, does not sound like oil pressure is low. If I turn engine off and the immediately back on, light goes out and stays out. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit - didn't work. I hooked up a gauge - engine has 60 psi oil pressure at idle - plenty! I'm guessing an electrical problem in the circuit.
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I have a 2005 Grand Caravan, this winter has been a cold one. The GC has always started without problem but after I back out of my parking spot, it sits outside, I put it into Drive and it will not move and after I give it a little gas it would still not move. None of the gears seem to work, but if I wait a little bit and the Van warms a little more it will go into gear and all is good. This does not happen all the time and when it does go into gear and I drive I do not have anymore problems until the next time it will "act up" on me again. Is this a problem or is it a cold problem and not a transmission problem?
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My 2000 Dodge Grand caravan loses its gauges every so often. engine light comes on as well as ABS...
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I got a great deal on this van, and I love it, with one exception. On hot days (73 degrees and hotter) the van will not start if it has been parked in the sun; until the temperature returns down to around 61 degrees (usually overnight, but I have waited it out in the parking lot at work a few times).
When this happens, the lights and radio work fine; the starter motor will not engage. No click, no chugga-chugga vroom-vroom. Sad Curto.
Note: October through about May in North Carolina, this car is fine.
I have replaced the steering column (after replacing the clock spring); I have replaced the Power Distribution Center.
When the problem first surfaced two years ago, I had a mechanic install a wire directly from the starter motor relay to the solenoid. That was an expensive lesson. I'm not sure what the lesson is, so it was REALLY expensive.
So, I thought maybe the Auto Shutdown Relay. Nope... pull that out, and the starter still turns, so that is not my problem. Now I am starting to thing Powertrain Control Module, or something else that could have a temperature-sensitive component.
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After spilling coffee down emergency brake lever the airbag light intermittently stays on. OBD showed no codes.
Found a couple of recalls that deal with airbag problems. One messed with the wiring harness under neath both front seats. The old wires hung down to low. The 2nd added a cover to not allow liquid to get on the connector/airbag electronics. The airbag electronics connector is directly below the emergency handbrake lever.
My nephews 2002 had the carpet extended over the connector/airbag electronics and that was suppose to protect the connector from getting wet.
Found sticky coffee on connector/airbag electronics.
Used screw driver to pry up on console tray. Then removed 3 screws on both side of console. Disconnected battery then used contact cleaner on connector and electronic module. Took plastic lid from 42oz round container of oatmeal and used double side tape to secure over connector/electronic module.
Airbag light is off and connector/airbag electronics has better protection from spills.
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My dash lights have a weird glitch when the headlights are on. I can hear a click and the dash lights will go out and immediately back on almost like a blink.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan with 120,000 miles. Starting at about 45mph the car has a really bad shimmy when accelerating. The shimmy fades starting at about 55 mph. There is no shimmy when not accelerating. Gently applying the breaks has no effect on the shimmy. I've put on new tires, Change the steering rack and struts and the engine and tranny mounts. what could be causing this?
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I have a '09 Dodge caravan. The ABS, ESP, TCS, and Brake lights are on. As we drive along the brakes apply, probably on only wheel. After we stop, we can drive on for a short way and it happens again. A mechanic told us that the steering sensor was telling the computer that the steering wheel was turned all the way to the left. I wonder if I pulled the fuse for the ABS pump and ABS valve if it would be safe to drive, at least until we can get it to the dealer for repair. I am cheap and like to get by as cheaply as I can/. I am not fond of ABS, or TCS any way?
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I have a 1993 Grand Caravan 3.3L V6. When I leave the van set for a couple a of days (or even overnight) and then start it, I have no oil pressure for a minute or so. After the engine has been running for about a minute or so the oil pressure finally comes up but not to normal. Once the engine has warmed up the oil pressure returns to what could be considered "normal". After the cold start, no oil pressure problem, the engine and the oil pressure is fine for the rest of the day. Let it even set overnight though and I have a repeat no oil pressure with start up.
I am thinking that there is a problem with the pick up tube not sealing properly and allowing the oil to bleed down while the engine is off for an extended period of time. So, in effect, I have to basically prime the oil pump at each start up. I haven't noticed any leaks of engine oil anywhere, so I am thinking that this is an internal problem. Is there a check valve or O-Ring associated with the pick up tube or oil pump that may cause this problem? Is it a fairly easy problem to correct? On this engine the oil pump is located in the front of the engine block behind the timing chain cover. (As best as I could determine from the Haynes Manual).
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