Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 2001 - Intermittent Starting / Getting Only One Click
Jun 18, 2015
OK so I have a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 with 125,000 miles. Recently about a month or so ago I began having a starting issue. Basically what happens is that when I go to start the car, all I get is one click. The engine does not crank at all. Now this will only happen once or twice in a row and then when I try to start it again the car will start fine and it does not have any issues at all.
This will sometimes happen 4-5 times in one day and then it works perfect for a week or two before it starts acting up again. Two weeks ago when I had this issue, I took it to have the battery, alternator and starter tested. Supposedly they all were good except the battery had a lot of corrosion around it. I cleaned the corrosion off and it started fine for 2 weeks straight before it started acting up again yesterday and today. I am worried that it will get to a point where it wont start at all. The battery was last replaced in December 2011.
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Sounds like an old police car siren but only about 10 % of my driving time and usually late evening hours...
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I have a 1998 Grand Caravan 3.8L engine with 157K on it. A month ago changed the EGR valve and replaced the transmission oil. Two days ago, went for shopping, parked the van. Came back and did not start (no crank, nothing). Called AAA, checked for battery, which was good. Radio, wiper, lights work. Had to tow to the shop. The mechanic checked for all possible problems. Said everything (Fuse, battery, starter motor, alternator) is good. He is clueless. Told him to check the ignition switch (may be worn out). He says it doesn't seem so.
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I have a weird problem with the radio in our 2008 Grand Caravan.About 2 or 3 weeks ago, the sound just stopped. The radio display still worked, time, channel, volume, just no sound.The sound would come back after the vehicle had been turned off for awhile, then go away again after some time.Now it's starting doing something even stranger... The sound will die, sometimes static with volume control, sometimes no static, no volume. It comes and goes, the radio works fine one day for an hour or so, then dies. Some days, it doesn't work at all.
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My 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan has developed a curious problem. It intermittently stalls, sometimes when slowing down, sometimes when going up an incline, sometimes on straightaways. Once stalled, it often won't start again until it has sat for 20-30 minutes. Then it starts right back up again and drives perfectly normally until the next time that it stalls-which can be days or hours. The problem is definitely getting worse--six times today. Warmer temperatures seem to exacerbate the problem. Again, the engine runs very smoothly up to the point of the stall. My mechanic was unable to replicate the problem and his diagnostics showed everything to be normal.
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i have a 96 slt v8 dakota im trying to fix myself. it wont start. put new batt. new starter motor. it just clicks engine wont turn everything in truck is working but when i turn the key to start its just clicks and my radio losses power. so i took out radio and still wont start...
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I have a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan that has some intermittent starting issues.
Symptoms: put key in, dash lights up. turn key, 1 "click", and then nothing, won't start, no extended clicking or anything. Sometimes it will start after a few tries, sometimes come back later and it works. Battery also seems to drain relatively quickly sitting, and so sometimes needs to be jumped if sitting for a few days.
Also, had a really strange experience where after it had to be jumped while driving, the dash and blinker totally went out, but car kept running. This happened a couple of times. I suspected something with the battery, so I had it tested and it checked out OK. Also, cleaned the terminals/battery cables w/ cleaner, wire brush, steel wool and sprayed some corrosion prevention stuff on there. It did need to be cleaned, but, alas, the problem continues.
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2001 F150 4.6 V8 Triton
Automatic
Battery Tests Good
Starter Tests Good - I saw it spin and come out at the testing station at Autozone
Ignition Relay (the one in the fusebox)- New (8mo.)
Switch on the firewall on passenger side of truck - New (8mo.)
Battery terminals/connectors - Tight, no movement, Cleaned within the last week.
Starter connections - cleaned within the last week.
I am having trouble with my truck not starting. The issue has been occurring on and off for over a year. Usually, it happens about once a month, regardless of weather.
I turn the key, and there is one click. Usually at this point, I can use one hand to gently pull the shifter "up" towards park and turn the key again and it will start. Recently it is not starting when I do this. I have tried many times, and have tried to start it in Neutral (is that even possible with an Automatic?).
With the key in the "ON" position, I go under the truck and jump the starter cellinoid. I am jumping the small post to the big post where th wire comes from the battery. I do not touch the post that the wire goes into the starter.
I am very confused because it starts just fine without fail and almost instantly when I jump the posts. It is drive-able this way, but I would like to resolve this issue, and resume using my key to start it since the issue doesn't seem to be resolving itself as it usually does.
A friend told me about the Ignition Starter Switch inside the Column. If I have time I will attempt to start the truck with a screw driver on the switch tonight to narrow down the issue.
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2001 Saturn SL1, 143,000 miles; well maintained. For about a week, I had intermittent no crank/no start. Lights and radio worked. A single, audible click occurred when I turned the key. When I was able to start the car, it ran fine. I suspected a failing starter.
The next time I tried to start the car, however, it roared to life only to run like an asthmatic locomotive. It idled low, at about 500 rpm, and shook badly. When I stepped on the gas, the engine smoothed a bit and the headlights flickered. There was no CEL or battery light, except for one brief moment when I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm.
Now, when I try to start the car, it starts just fine, but runs for about 2 seconds before stalling out. I installed a new battery in September 2012 and I changed the plugs in early 2013 – both routine, preventative measures.
Any chance I flooded the engine while trying to start it, even though it's a fuel-injected engine? If so, how do I "unflood" it?
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I have a 2001 T&C, 3.3L, 4-Speed tranny and around 116K Miles. On occasion, I totally lose power steering for about a second or two. It acts like the engine has stalled and I have to muscle the steering wheel. There no belt squealing, no pump noise, and the serpentine belt is relatively new. PS Fluid level is good. It seems to happen at idle RPM.
Of all the caravans I've had, this is a first.
Now, I'm OK with it as long as I don't let anyone else drive it. I know what to expect, and I can muscle the steering when necessary. Once this happened to my on a highway offramp and I was able to control it with no problems. I suspect it is a problem with the rack, maybe?
My question is this: Is this an indication of something going terribly bad, like the total loss of steering control?
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My father inlaw has a dodge van that is having problems starting. When starting it will crank, but will not fire. We have discovered that if you remove the 20 amp Oxygen Sensor relay, under the hood, and jump it directly to the battery, while starting if will start. The fuse appears to be good. Can the O2 sensor relay prevent the van from starting, but run after initially bypassing after starting? What it might be?
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this is regarding a 2001 taurus sedan 3.0 liter 116,000 miles.She developed an intermittent starting problem. No particular time or situation to when it would do it.Had it diagnosed as a crankshaft sensor which was replaced. fixed the start issue but then had a noticable missfire or jerkiness to the car while accellerating. I was told it could be fuel filter so replaced that.After getting it back it still had a very noticeable jerking to the drive. Was next told it might need injector cleaning. The exhaust sensor light would come on at times. So it was suggested to change an injector in cylinder 1 as that was the problem cylinder. Not sure if that has fixed the problem as I have not yet got the car back as there was a problem reinstalling the tank that required parts from Ford to fix.If I get it back and it still misses what else could it be? I was told maybe a valve for that cylinder, does that say the end is near for this vehicle?
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Bought my Santa Fe GLS less than 2 months ago and ran fine. Last week, went to store no problems and then went out 5 minutes later, put it in reverse and it stalled. I go to the store, and it lacks MAJOR power.
Now, if I leave it alone for a while it will normally start right up. While idling, everything seems fine. Then my "ghost" takes over the vehicle making it less responsive to the gas pedal. Also, at 3000 rpm, it sounds like its skipping a cylinder. When reading the gauge, it skips between 3000rpm to abut 2800 rpm.
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My 2001 Dodge Durango has an intermittent clunking that seems to correlate to the wheels rotating and happens: at low speeds (0-5 mph)... however, it has gotten worse if I drive continuously for an hour and then stop. It will happen between 0 and 30mph and be much louder.
When the clunking happens, the steering wheel also rotates to to the right and the car will shake a little.
If I had to guess, the clunking is coming from the front left but really could be anywhere.
I have taken it to FireStone multiple times, they have test driven it all over... it never seems to happen when they have it.
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I have a 2004 Grand Caravan 3.8 engine. For the last 2 months the oil light has been coming on when car is first started. If I stop engine and start again the light will be off. I don't think its actual oil pressure because the car runs fine with light on or off. I'm thinking a bad pressure sensor?
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Sometimes when I start my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 liter engine, the oil light comes on and stays on, even if I rev engine up. Engine sounds normal, does not sound like oil pressure is low. If I turn engine off and the immediately back on, light goes out and stays out. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit - didn't work. I hooked up a gauge - engine has 60 psi oil pressure at idle - plenty! I'm guessing an electrical problem in the circuit.
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I have a 2005 Grand Caravan, this winter has been a cold one. The GC has always started without problem but after I back out of my parking spot, it sits outside, I put it into Drive and it will not move and after I give it a little gas it would still not move. None of the gears seem to work, but if I wait a little bit and the Van warms a little more it will go into gear and all is good. This does not happen all the time and when it does go into gear and I drive I do not have anymore problems until the next time it will "act up" on me again. Is this a problem or is it a cold problem and not a transmission problem?
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My 2000 Dodge Grand caravan loses its gauges every so often. engine light comes on as well as ABS...
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I got a great deal on this van, and I love it, with one exception. On hot days (73 degrees and hotter) the van will not start if it has been parked in the sun; until the temperature returns down to around 61 degrees (usually overnight, but I have waited it out in the parking lot at work a few times).
When this happens, the lights and radio work fine; the starter motor will not engage. No click, no chugga-chugga vroom-vroom. Sad Curto.
Note: October through about May in North Carolina, this car is fine.
I have replaced the steering column (after replacing the clock spring); I have replaced the Power Distribution Center.
When the problem first surfaced two years ago, I had a mechanic install a wire directly from the starter motor relay to the solenoid. That was an expensive lesson. I'm not sure what the lesson is, so it was REALLY expensive.
So, I thought maybe the Auto Shutdown Relay. Nope... pull that out, and the starter still turns, so that is not my problem. Now I am starting to thing Powertrain Control Module, or something else that could have a temperature-sensitive component.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan with 120,000 miles. Starting at about 45mph the car has a really bad shimmy when accelerating. The shimmy fades starting at about 55 mph. There is no shimmy when not accelerating. Gently applying the breaks has no effect on the shimmy. I've put on new tires, Change the steering rack and struts and the engine and tranny mounts. what could be causing this?
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I have a '09 Dodge caravan. The ABS, ESP, TCS, and Brake lights are on. As we drive along the brakes apply, probably on only wheel. After we stop, we can drive on for a short way and it happens again. A mechanic told us that the steering sensor was telling the computer that the steering wheel was turned all the way to the left. I wonder if I pulled the fuse for the ABS pump and ABS valve if it would be safe to drive, at least until we can get it to the dealer for repair. I am cheap and like to get by as cheaply as I can/. I am not fond of ABS, or TCS any way?
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