Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 2000 - Oil Pan Drain Plug - Threads Can Become Stripped?
Sep 23, 2014
I have a 2000 Grand Caravan and had a Chrysler dealer change the oil in July....just took it in today for another oil change and they told me the oil drain plug just turns - either the plug is stripped or the threads on the pan are stripped....I said that they were the ones who changed the oil last time so if anything happened then they did it....they are saying that over time the threads can become stripped - suggesting that if the threads on the oil pan are stripped then I will have to buy a new oil pan.....I said that I had not touched the oil pan so if something is wrong then they are responsible - the threads don't just strip themselves.
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I have a 2000 F450, 7.3, 4x4, dually, VIN 1FDXF47F0YEA44380, with 30k miles, That needs a new rear axle - hub retainer threads on axle housing are stripped (nut welded on by previous owner). This axle is a case ID F81A-4001-BK, 4.88 ratio, 11.25 ring gear, with a 41.5" spring center. I have heard that the '99-'02 axles had issues until Ford switched over to the later square housed axles in 2002 or 2003 (Dana 110, I think). Is it possible to adapt these later (2002- 2004) axles onto a 2000 F450? And if so, what would be involved?
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I am currently doing my injectors. Just a quick question. I was trying to get the fuel rail drain plug out but it stripped, actually not on the driver side stripped. I know there is the drain plug on the back of the cylinder. If I drain that and turn the crank over by hand will that drain all the oil and fuel that has drained into the cylinder? I'm really not trying to bend a rod when I turn this thing over. It's A 2001 7.3
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2000 honda accord automatic, 4 cylinder. As I unscrew the drain plug of the transmission, i stripped about 2/3 of the hole threads. the bolt threads are OK. what are my choices to fix it? i do not believe there is room to "tap and die" (?). I visited locan NAPA and they suggested me using 2 liquid epoxy. what i am thinking to do first is to use the liquid gasket surrounding my bolt, bolt them in using the remaining 1/3 of the hole thread. Let is sit and cured. it will work?
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I have been a reader for years and finally have a problem worthy of your consideration. I recently acquired my brother-in-law’s old 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan. It has over 200,000 miles on it, so I am not inclined to spend much on repairs. It has an automatic transmission which runs well, but pulls distinctly to the right when it shifts gears. The effect is strongest when it goes for 2nd to 3rd, but it is noticeable at other gears. It does not pull when it is running normally. Tires are new and looks to be balanced and aligned. Likewise, the brakes seem ok. First, what is going on? And, second, is it dangerous to drive it in this condition and will it get worse if unattended?
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I just drove away in a new 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan - had 106 miles when I took title at the dealership - and immediately noticed the most annoying high pitched whine or whistle. It seems to occur under 2000 RPMs and starts around 25mph. It continues until about 45 mps and then either becomes less audible behind the engine noise or stops - hard to tell. When the car slows down, it comes back -- most of the time. It changes in pitch as the car goes faster and as it slows down.
It has been so loud at times that I think it's a police or ambulance siren and I have gotten ready to pull over. It does not happen in neutral when I rev the engine - the car has to be moving. Turning the wheels doesn't seem to make a difference. I am going to take it in to the dealer but I suspect they will just laugh and say that's how the car sounds. I've never had a car that had such an annoying soundtrack - and I've rented about 5 of these minivans over the past 3 years and never experienced this, either.
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My automatic door lock is making a buzzing noise when it locks the door. It does not make any noise when unlocking. I need to remove the door panel to take a look. How to remove the panel on the drivers door of a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan?
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Short Version. 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan, I two weeks ago I replaced the front brakes (rotors, calipers, and pads both sides) I drove the van 100 miles Saturday night with no problems. Sunday afternoon, whilst driving home from a restaurant with 5 people in the van (driving super gingerly because they were my inlaws) the right front brake stuck on and smoked on the drive home. The calipers are new, and I have not had any other problems since I replaced the brakes that were trashed when I got it.
Long version, So heres the deal, I am the proud owner of a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan, its got about 140,000 miles on it, its a little rusty, but I got it for free. A family member was getting rid of it, as it was 11 years old, and they wanted something newer, and it needed brakes and a few other things. They were going to donate it, but it sat all winter waiting for the donation company to pick it up. Being a consummate grease monkey elite shade tree mechanic tinkerer type, and being in the new family, new house cash flow situation, I swooped in and towed it home in hopes that I could make a decent enough ride that I could fit two adults, a car seat and a dog into.
Now when I got the van I knew it had some problems. That's the reason it was free. But it is/was all fixable stuff. Typical of age and mileage It had a whiny power steering pump, it needed an oil change, the power steering lines leaked, the transmission cooler lines needed to be replaced. It needed a serpentine belt. It has a motor mount that needs replacing. The front suspension clunked because of worn out swaybar bushings and end link Its a bunch of work and few weekends and a few hundred in parts, but when the van was free, and you do the work yourself it costs a lot less.
The front brakes were completely trashed when I got the van, that is one of the reasons that the previous owner had parked it. And it was obvious that the right front caliper had seized, I could not push the piston back in. And that was the one that seized on, and had the most damages so I replaced it, along with the left front, as it was also the original one, and well they were both the same age, and have the stuff to bleed the brakes out. So what causes disk brake calipers to randomly stick on when they are used gently? Because when I drive it angry, such as now, they seem fine.
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Where the engine coolant drain plug is located? The picture in the owner's manual is not very clear. I crawled under and found a bolt head with a washer under it located about six inches to the driver side of the oil filter. It's right next to the VIN number plate.
I expected to find it at the bottom of the engine but this bolt head is higher up, about even with the lower edge of the oil filter. Is this the coolant drain plug?
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I was taking out my plugs 2 of them were soaked with gas and oil and 1 of the other ones just spins. what do I do? The car is a 1995 tbird 133000 miles the car has been sitting for a year and I couldn't get it to start that's why I am pulling the plugs the car ran fine when it was parked....
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I have stripped my HPOP fill plug. Any experience on getting one out? And a part # for a new one?
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With the many discussions on F150 spark plug blow outs, is there any consistency in which Cylinders usually go or is it completely random. In my 2003 F150, 4.6, 2wd, I've replaced #3 cylinder with insert and now #2. Currently I'm at 154,000 miles but want to travel cross country with a load. I don't want to stall out on the hwy, would it be wise to go and insert the remaining cylinders - not cheap. My mechanic is willing to inspect with a bore scope the threads and re-torque. Is there a point at which if it hasn't been a problem it won't be. Truck is used primarily for commuting and to pull a single jet ski in the summer. Both blow-outs happened at a stop-light about 20,000 miles apart with no load.
Follow-up. Did inspection, found cylinder #7 nearly stripped out - it was actually pushing up the coil. Funny thing is, this plug had already the small insert which was coming out with the plug. I bought the vehicle new. Was this a factory repair? or did my previous mechanic strip-it when replacing all my plugs at 95,000 miles? Lucking the large inserts my current mechanic uses was able to find some metal and make a good repair. Looking at the cylinder order, I have now replaced 3 of the inter four cylinders (2,3,7) should have I done #6 too, this is probably the next high risk cylinder or not?
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2000 Dodge Neon having issues with freeze plugs falling out. Have replaced at least four freeze plugs over the last year and a half. Is there a solution to avoid constant replacement? Neon has about 135,000 miles. There is no warning when a plug is about to fall. Research shows freeze plug issues are not isolated to the Neon and perhaps copper plugs are the answer.
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I have a 2004 Grand Caravan 3.8 engine. For the last 2 months the oil light has been coming on when car is first started. If I stop engine and start again the light will be off. I don't think its actual oil pressure because the car runs fine with light on or off. I'm thinking a bad pressure sensor?
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Sometimes when I start my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 liter engine, the oil light comes on and stays on, even if I rev engine up. Engine sounds normal, does not sound like oil pressure is low. If I turn engine off and the immediately back on, light goes out and stays out. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit - didn't work. I hooked up a gauge - engine has 60 psi oil pressure at idle - plenty! I'm guessing an electrical problem in the circuit.
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I have a 2005 Grand Caravan, this winter has been a cold one. The GC has always started without problem but after I back out of my parking spot, it sits outside, I put it into Drive and it will not move and after I give it a little gas it would still not move. None of the gears seem to work, but if I wait a little bit and the Van warms a little more it will go into gear and all is good. This does not happen all the time and when it does go into gear and I drive I do not have anymore problems until the next time it will "act up" on me again. Is this a problem or is it a cold problem and not a transmission problem?
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My 2000 Dodge Grand caravan loses its gauges every so often. engine light comes on as well as ABS...
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I got a great deal on this van, and I love it, with one exception. On hot days (73 degrees and hotter) the van will not start if it has been parked in the sun; until the temperature returns down to around 61 degrees (usually overnight, but I have waited it out in the parking lot at work a few times).
When this happens, the lights and radio work fine; the starter motor will not engage. No click, no chugga-chugga vroom-vroom. Sad Curto.
Note: October through about May in North Carolina, this car is fine.
I have replaced the steering column (after replacing the clock spring); I have replaced the Power Distribution Center.
When the problem first surfaced two years ago, I had a mechanic install a wire directly from the starter motor relay to the solenoid. That was an expensive lesson. I'm not sure what the lesson is, so it was REALLY expensive.
So, I thought maybe the Auto Shutdown Relay. Nope... pull that out, and the starter still turns, so that is not my problem. Now I am starting to thing Powertrain Control Module, or something else that could have a temperature-sensitive component.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan with 120,000 miles. Starting at about 45mph the car has a really bad shimmy when accelerating. The shimmy fades starting at about 55 mph. There is no shimmy when not accelerating. Gently applying the breaks has no effect on the shimmy. I've put on new tires, Change the steering rack and struts and the engine and tranny mounts. what could be causing this?
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I have a '09 Dodge caravan. The ABS, ESP, TCS, and Brake lights are on. As we drive along the brakes apply, probably on only wheel. After we stop, we can drive on for a short way and it happens again. A mechanic told us that the steering sensor was telling the computer that the steering wheel was turned all the way to the left. I wonder if I pulled the fuse for the ABS pump and ABS valve if it would be safe to drive, at least until we can get it to the dealer for repair. I am cheap and like to get by as cheaply as I can/. I am not fond of ABS, or TCS any way?
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I have a 1993 Grand Caravan 3.3L V6. When I leave the van set for a couple a of days (or even overnight) and then start it, I have no oil pressure for a minute or so. After the engine has been running for about a minute or so the oil pressure finally comes up but not to normal. Once the engine has warmed up the oil pressure returns to what could be considered "normal". After the cold start, no oil pressure problem, the engine and the oil pressure is fine for the rest of the day. Let it even set overnight though and I have a repeat no oil pressure with start up.
I am thinking that there is a problem with the pick up tube not sealing properly and allowing the oil to bleed down while the engine is off for an extended period of time. So, in effect, I have to basically prime the oil pump at each start up. I haven't noticed any leaks of engine oil anywhere, so I am thinking that this is an internal problem. Is there a check valve or O-Ring associated with the pick up tube or oil pump that may cause this problem? Is it a fairly easy problem to correct? On this engine the oil pump is located in the front of the engine block behind the timing chain cover. (As best as I could determine from the Haynes Manual).
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