Problem 1: Headlight switch occasionally needs to be jiggled to get headlights on.
Problem 2: Wipers only work in the "spray and wipe" mode.
My Solution: Removed dash, installed new switches, replaced dash.Result: Now the right headlight does not come on at all. Wipers STILL only work in the "Spray and wipe" mode.
Question: Where do I go from here?
OK... My '00 GLX 4-motion 30v has started to really piss me off! It started about a month ago with the trunk latch. The light would come on in the dash and I'd check it and it would be open. I didn't open it! Then when I try to reclose it, no luck. Won't latch! So I look at the latch and it seems to be broken. But then I was driving down the road and the trunk just locked itself! I couldn't even get it to latch the day before and now it's locked! Next the rear view mirror decides to go all hazy and piss all over the dash! WTF! Now the autodimmer doesn't work! The rain sensing wipers quit and now the delay setting just does nothing! Then, as if that weren't enough, the A/C just decids to not work anymore! It won't turn on the compressor. It was working fine when I got to work and then when I got back in a few hours later, nothing! It has good system pressure, but it's like the controll unit isn't telling the compressor to kick! Up untill this point the only problems it's has giving me were the infamous tie rods and some wheel bearing noise from up front, oh and the camshaft seals. Starting to get pissed at the thing! Leaning toward the BMW side of things very quickly.
View 3 RepliesI just bought a 97 f-150 from my dad, there are some electrical issue's but the main one seems to be battery drain.
I have noticed with the truck off key in my pocket, the a/c doors keep trying to move and the a/c head has power to it.
I know the engine has been replaced, with about 20k on it.
The temp gauge pegs w/o getting hot, and it even turned over once while we were getting in the truck. Again key in pocket.
I have a 2005 Grand Caravan, this winter has been a cold one. The GC has always started without problem but after I back out of my parking spot, it sits outside, I put it into Drive and it will not move and after I give it a little gas it would still not move. None of the gears seem to work, but if I wait a little bit and the Van warms a little more it will go into gear and all is good. This does not happen all the time and when it does go into gear and I drive I do not have anymore problems until the next time it will "act up" on me again. Is this a problem or is it a cold problem and not a transmission problem?
View 7 RepliesIn May of this year (2015), it started to die. What I mean is it loses all electrics and it kills the engine. No dash lights, no odometer, no headlights, no radio, no blower, no electric windows, no electric locks, no interior lights, no visable sign that it has power at all except a tiny red light on the dash that blinks every few seconds.Always at low speeds under 30mph, usually while under load from either being on the freeway for a bit or while the AC was running or both. If I wait long enough, it comes back on all by itself but this can take seconds or hours. The radio is not reset, which is the only other indication that the battery terminals are not at fault. I am getting power to the starter, but nothing else.
When it first started happening, we thought it was a fuse or relay and swapped out several, but while it was dead, nothing affected it. It only happened three times until July when it stepped up its game and would die multiple times a day.Under advice of a shadetree mechanic, we replaced the Powertrain control Module (PCM) located behind the front bumper under the driver side headlight. This seemed to solve the problem for almost a month when the water pump decided to fail and we replaced it, the thermostat and radiator fan thermometer, only for it to die exactly as before only the very next day.The shop ran it until it died, took the pcm off and checked to see if it was overheating, but it wasnt. They checked the battery cables, fuses and anything else they could think of.
I got it it back at the beginning of October and on its first night out it died twice. I was driving it and noticed that it was a hot muggy day about 80F and because I was wary of it dying I chose not to run the AC, but the air coming from the vents was still quite cold. First time it died we popped the hood and the Eatx shutdown relay was hot enough to fry an egg. I replaced it with a spare I had, and all the systems in the van sprang back to life. It made it a mile before dying again and this time the new relay was hot, but all I did was wiggle it and back to life it went. Drove it 12 more miles home, then the next day back to the shop without incident.
I went to talk with the shop a couple days ago, because I really need this thing fixed but they are not sure what to do next. I told them about the AC running even while off and so we pulled the fuse for the AC clutch entirely. I ran it around for twenty minutes and even with the temp on the dash at normal hot position center of the gauge and blower at full tilt and set to hot with AC off, I had the coldest air until I hit a bump and suddenly I had hot air. Thinking the AC clutch was seized I took it back to the shop, verified that the compressor wasnt working anymore while engine was running and thought we may have fixed the issue.
Three days later, I have driven it all over with no issue, only for it to now die twice in a mile all within a mile of home. On the way home, the heater wasn't blowing as hot as it could be, until I almost made it to my freeway exit, by then I was worried that it was going to die after I had slowed down to the side road speed which it did happen.
I opened the driver door to get out and that was all the jarring it took to turn everything back on, the second time I had popped the hood and was reaching for the clips to the fuse cover to check the eatx shutdown relay when it all came back on. The relay was no warmer than the relay for the fuel pump. Between the first and second event, I could feel it hesitating every few seconds like it was about to lose power. After the second event I was so close to home I may have been a little lead-footed and did not notice.
Addendum: The bellows in the interior heater broke back on Valentine's day, so no matter what the dial it set to, it only blows out the upper body vents on the dash. The radio has an issue that it can no longer play tapes and one of the speakers is mostly silent. I wondered if either of these were shorting out and causing issue.
2005 Grand Caravan with 160K miles. Automatic door locks started not working two years ago and needed to be reset by either disconnecting the battery or pulling the fuse. First this would happen every six months, then about every three months, then monthly, and now about every two weeks. Is there anyway to avoid having to reset the system every two weeks?
View 3 RepliesThe windshield wipers on my 2010 F-150 do not wipe a clear path. I have tried several different brands of blades without any good results. It is like the blades have to have more tension against the glass. Is there a way to increase this tension?
View 14 RepliesI have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L with a kind of serious problem. My wipers dont always work. Sometimes they work fine, sometimes they work fine to start with and then quit without warning, other times the only way to get them to turn on is to turn them on high and then go to the speed that I want to use. It has the intermittent option but I am not yet convinced that that has anything to do with my problem. They will quit working some of the time while using the delay but they also quit on low sometimes. I have been through and checked all of the plugs, and even went as far as to grease them up so I know they are making good connections. I'm at a loss, I would think if it were the motor or the switch it would just go out all together. And if it were a broken wire, wouldn't it come on and go off if I hit a bump in the road? They shut off on smooth roads so bumpy or smooth does not matter.
View 1 RepliesSometimes when I start my truck (maybe 2-3x per week) my windshield wipers will wipe one time randomly. They're not on and haven't been on for days.
View 5 RepliesThis question concerns starting our 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan with 170K. The problem started about a week ago. When turning the key to start the engine, nothing would happen. No click, no noise, no engine turnover. By turning the key to off and then back on several times, the starter would kick in normally. The starter has never been replaced and I don't recall any electrical work ever being done on the car. I take it to our mechanic about every 2 years for a tune up and replacement of belts and hoses as needed.I have a friend that is a good shade tree mechanic and he is willing to replace the starter.My question is: Is the problem most likely a bad starter and if so, is replacement by my friend a reasonably easy task.
View 2 RepliesOur 1997 Grand Caravan with 170K has transmission fluid seeping from the outer seal where the left driveshaft connects to the transaxle. Is there a stop leak liquid that can be added to the transmission fluid safely? Is replacing the seal a major expense?
View 2 RepliesOur 1997 Grand Caravan with 170K loses more air conditioning every year. So, I assume I have a slow leak. Is recharging something I can do myself with the new type cans offered by auto parts stores? Also, I think the radiator fan no longer comes on, I never hear it and the engine temp will go up when driving slowly around town.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Dodge Caravan that when I drive at highway speeds and it's wet out, my air bad light comes on and about 50% of the time, the radio, fan, windshield wipers, and 12v outlet stop working suggesting the fuse or some other wiring is getting wet. The dealer cannot replicate and will not suggest any fixes. What do I have my local mechanic replace or seal?
I know there's a Chrysler recall on 2005-2006 Caravans, #J38, but my Caravan falls outside the specs by 2 mths (it was for vehicles in service between Jan 2005 and April 2006).
I have a 2001 ford f150 4.2 five speed with a little over 250,000 miles. The wipers will not do anything. I have gotten a new motor and plugged it in before I installed it and checked it and still nothing. I have changed the switch on the column and they still did not work. I have tried checking with a multimeter and a probe light. I do not know what is wrong with them or where else to go. What to do or what to check next?
View 2 RepliesI have an '08 Lux wagon with rain sensing wipers and automatic headlights. When I spray the windshield with washer fluid, the wipers don't come on to wipe it away. This occurred today, and the wipers would not activate no matter what position I put the control stalk in. Then, after a few seconds, they came on and cleared the windshield. I have not noticed any other issues with the wipers. What might be going on here?
View 7 RepliesCurios problem with my car. When I spray washer fluid quickly the wipers do not start. I can literally empty litres of fluid on the windshield and they still will not activate. Now on other cars I have had you can play chicken and pull quickly on the lever and this I can do a off a couple of times without activating the wipers but not constantly. I had it in for service and the mechanic said he has never seen this problem before and does not even know how to fix it. It does get annoying that you have to waste a lot more fluid to activate the wipers "auto" function by holding it on a few seconds longer than needed.
View 7 RepliesI did the installation of the start/stop button and it works. However, I have some unresolved issues. I have done a search in the FAQ thread but could not find anything referring to the following:
1- When I lock the car, either with the fob or with the door buttons, the alarm will sound when I enter the car if I unlock it using the door handle sensors. I can disarm the alarm with the fob, but it is not disarming with the door handles. How can I solve this issue so that the alarm is disarmed with the door handles? Can this be solved using a VAG-COM?
2- When I turn on the alarm, either with the fob or the door handle, the alarm indicating light blinks for a few seconds, then goes steady, and then blinks normally. I had not noticed this steady light state before. My alarm, I think, always went straight to blinking and stayed blinking
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3- When they gave me the car back the adviser said that the seat would not move and the trunk would not open. However, I think they ran down the battery because the interior light was on. The dash displayed the "start the car now" message.
a) I had an almost two hour drive back home, do you think that the battery recharged in that time?
b) Was there any lasting damage done to the battery?
c) Is it safe to charge the battery with a trickle charger or do I need a special and specific charger?
The trunk now operates OK and the start/stop button also works. I wish the alarm also did.
I have a Mini Cooper 2005. Last month the battery died. The warning sign was that when I turned the key, there was a second or two pause where everything went dead. No lights at all in cabin and clock reset. Then it started up. It did that many times before the battery went dead. I got it charged and thought all was well but now the mini did the pause thing again and I fear that I am going to deal with a dead battery again.
View 5 Replies I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
I have a 2006 Ford F-150 V8 XLT 4x2 SuperCrew that I had to replace a few old/blown bulbs on (left Front Blinker and rear Right Blinker/Brake). I decided to go with the Pilot brand LED replacements, and verified that they are the correct replacement models to the factory bulb part numbers.
Per what I've read from others' experience doing this... I opted to buy the EP27 flasher to fix the issues with hyperflashing, rather than going with Load Resistors. So, all LEDs blink/flash with no problem.
The issue seems to be related to me having the Headlight Switch in the DRL-on position, and the headlights/parking lights not being on (i.e. if it's still daylight and it's just the DRL). If the Headlight switch is left in the off position or in the DRL-on position, when I brake or signal (left or right) the entire electrical system will flash/illuminate with the brake/flashing activity (this includes all LEDs and brake lights and the Stereo backlighting... anything that is dimmed by leaving the Headlight switch in an 'off' or DRL-on position). The only way to fix the problem is to turn the Headlight switch into the parking or headlights on position.. then the issue doesn't occur, all signal and brake light activities work as expected.
It's not a big deal, but I guess I'm lazy and like having the headlights come on and off automatically... plus, I'm a little worried that there might be an electrical issue that could cause me issues if I don't address it now.
The only thing I have NOT done is replaced the LEDs back with Incandescent bulbs, to see if the problem is totally eliminated. I have verified that no fuses are blown in the fuse panel, etc.
I'm sure the issue is easy to fix and I'm hoping the fix isn't to remove/replace the LED lights with OEM lights..
I just bought a 1998 ford f150. Wipers do not work, the wipers only work when i hit windshield washer, but no washer fluid comes out, what could it be?
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