Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 1996 ES Losing All Power With Gas Tank Half Full
Jul 18, 2011
Have a 96 Dodge Grand Caravan ES which runs great. However, when gas tank is half full or less, the car will, only occasionally, lose power as if it is not getting gas. Every few minutes you can start it and limp along for a minute or two at 10 mph and then it will die again. As soon as I can get it to a gas station and fill tank, it runs fine again. And this only happens once in a while - say like once every couple months.
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Why my 96 dodge neon is leaking coolant. I was checking my oil and I noticed the reservoir tank was half empty, so I assumed it was nothing out of the ordinary since it's a 17 year old car. When I filled it though, it came pouring out of the tube that sits right under the tank. I'm capping it off every day before I drive and it holds, but it's definitely got a slow leak. It seems to only hold it for 4 days of driving for an hour. My temperature gauge stays at the normal level, but you can smell the antifreeze burning and the engine's running hot. I'm not too mechanically inclined, but what could be wrong with it? I've recently installed a new alternator and clutch cable and found out my valve cover gasket is leaking. I really want to save this car instead of getting a new one.
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My fuel gauge acted pretty weird today. When I left my house today it was just above half a tank. I was sitting in traffic quite a bit and then looked down and it was below the e. I knew it wasn't empty so I kept going. Got to work. Went for lunch and it said full drove about 5 mins to eat and it went down to half a tank. What's going on? I am thinking of the fuel sender or wiring?
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I've been having a very erratic fuel gauge issue as of about 2 months ago. My fuel level would register full, when in fact I knew it only had 1/2 a tank or so. Then 5 minutes later it would be pegged on full. Under a 1/2 tank the gauge would read any where from 1/2 to empty from 1 minute to the next. So last week I decided to drop my tank and take a look. I was thinking maybe my fuel sender was broken, maybe a loose wire in the tank, or even that my float had dropped off in to the tank.
After dropping the tank, I removed the PK-Up and sending unit and everything was intact. I placed my ohm meter on the sending unit and it checked out fine. So I took the Pk-up and rolled back up underneath the truck and plugged it back in. I had my son turn the key on and off while I moved the float to different levels in order that it would register. It registered empty, 1/4/, 1/2, 3/4 and full just fine as I moved the float to those levels. If you leave the key in the run position and move the float, it won't register or better said, the in cab gauge will not adjust with the movement.
You have to turn the key off move the float and hold it there, then have your assistant turn the key on and the gauge will show the position that you've moved and held it at. I simply removed the plastic cover from the sending unit, and sprayed it down real good with electrical contact cleaner. I didn't scrub the copper contact area at all.
I was concerned that scrubbing might remove more than I wanted to, and really mess things up. I attached an Ohm meter and checked resistance thru out the float travel. All checked out good and I reinstalled it. So now my fuel gauge is working as it should be. I did make a video while I ohmed the Sender Unit thru it's travel, but for some reason it won't load.
[URL] ....
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My car's heat gauge reaches to half and then stays there for the rest of the ride. When it reaches at/close to half, only then I hear a knocking sound while accelerating. However, if I press the accelerator only slightly OR full way down, then sound goes away. What is wrong with my vehicle? I have Dodge grand caravan 2006... (It has run 400000 miles)?
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We have been having an issue with our gas tank not filling up continuously for over three years. It automatically trips the gas shut of switch every couple of seconds so it can take a while to fill up. Then every once in a while it fills up totally normally.
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Since purchase, I've had one gas fill up at 694 miles. That was four or five weeks ago and it's still full. My EV ratio is 65% (1100 miles) and will continue to increase. I realize I'm carrying a lot of dead weigh for weeks. For those with high EV mode use, what's your recommendation with gas fill ups? I'm thinking no more than fives gallons for daily commute and around town.
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I just bought my 2012 Elantra Limited from the dealer today . The fuel gauge showed about two bars, a quarter tank I estimated. However when I went to fuel it, the pump clicked off after about 1 gallon, indicating the tank was full.
That was odd so I just figured there was some air in the tank or in the hose, so I tried adding some more fuel. I got about a half gallon more added when it clicked off again. Well, I know you're not supposed to top off the tank so I tried to add more. Got about two gallons added when it clicked off. I stopped fueling at that point for fear of causing damage.
My fuel gauge now shows a little less than half full. How can that be? Is there something I can do to fix this?
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The 96 Caravan I bought a year ago came equipped with an aftermarket dent in the oil pan. It's a bent up generally flat, not all at one point, but there's no leak and no other apparent problem, though of course it does reduce the oil capacity. When I had some overdue warranty work done at a dealer, the service writer told me the dent is exactly where the the oil pickup is, which mostly sounded like the dealer looking for some extra work. I decided I'd replace the pan myself when I had enough miles on the car to see if it was worth the effort.
The pan has a lower sump area that measures roughly 5" x 7" and that entire portion is pushed up somewhat evenly. I'd estimate the deepest part of the deformation is almost an inch, so less than 35 cubic inches lost capacity. 35 cu in = .606 quart.
I can buy a new oil pan w/ gasket at Rock Auto for a shade over fifty bucks to add to an order I otherwise need to place with them. A used pan at the local junkyard would cost ten or twenty bucks plus my labor plus the gasket, which I judge as not enough cheaper to be worth my time and inconvenience (they want me to capture the used oil and take it with me). So it's either buy the new oil pan, or fix something else. Or pull the pan, bend it back to shape, and replace the gasket? It appears to me that the pan gasket may be seeping, though not enough to drip, so it's probably due for a gasket anyway.
Should I care about this, or learn to love the dent?
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I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado with the 4.8L V-8 engine. It acts like it is running out of gas ( the gas tank is over half full). The truck has sat for about 6 months in this condition without being started here in Sacramento, CA. I then replaced the fuel filter and for a few minutes it started and the engine ran fine (without actually driving it). A few days later I started it again and it now again acts like it has fuel starvation, it will rev up briefly then act like it is running out of fuel. I know the fuel pumps are the Achilles Heel of these trucks, but before I try changing it I was wondering if there might perhaps be another problem such as the new fuel filter plugging up quickly or possibly an electrical problem. I've always heard these fuel pumps either work or they don't work, nothing in between. This problem is intermittent but big enough the truck is not driveable. Is there any way to get a good take on the problem before diving into the fuel pump replacement and hoping that solves the problem ?
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1996 Grand Caravan with ABS, 3.3L V6, 152k.
Am I correct that Dot 4 brake fluid is equivalent to Dot 3 - with the added advantage of higher boiling point? Is there any downside to using Dot 4, other than a small additional cost? Seems like the cost difference is irrelevant compared to the safety margin to reduce the chance of boiling the brake fluid on a long downhill in hot weather, or - as in a recent puzzler - heating from the exhaust system. Or is Dot 3 really just fine for most cars?
Either way, I'm going to flush the system with new fluid (and replace old parts as needed), it's definitely due. Neither my owners manual, nor the factory service manual, gives a capacity for the entire system. Ditto the Napa store. I'm guessing it's in the range of two quarts. I don't want to buy a full gallon only to let it sit in the garage, but if I need three quarts, I may as well buy the gallon. Where to find the capacity, or have a ballpark approximation for what the system will need?
Also, is there any benefit to flushing the system BEFORE replacing wheel cylinders to keep old fluid out of new parts? That makes sense to me, even if it uses extra fluid. So:
1: Dot 3 vs Dot 4
2: capacity
3: which comes first: flush or new parts
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1999 Dodge stratus fuel gauge works form Half to Full. Fuel pump replaced and mechanic thinks the BCM is bad. Need to figuring out the issue. Fuel gauge was checked and it gives the correct voltage.
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As I was driving to work yesterday I noticed my fuel gauge going from half tank all the way to full going down the highway. I started looking at the rest and they seem to be in there normal spots. I looked up and watched the outside temp go from 40 degrees to 5. This morning the fuel gauge goes straight to full and the outside temp bounces between 2 degrees and 10. What may be going on to cause this?
The truck is a 2000 F350 crew cab with a 7.3 Power Stroke
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I recently bought a 2005 Ford F250 Super Duty, diesel 6.0.
As I was driving to work this morning I noticed that the fuel gauge read almost full when it should have only had a half tank. A little while later I heard a beep and saw that the gauge was now on empty with a "Low Fuel" message displayed. Then I noticed the heater was suddenly blowing cold air.
I've only had the truck for a few weeks, but haven't had any other problems. I did replace the CD receiver and all of the instrument cluster lights a couple weeks ago, but everything seemed to be working fine after.
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So I have a 2005 Dodge Stratus. It must be a year old model because most of the parts and engine wise are of the 2006 model. Well earlier in Feb/March I had to get my timing belt and heads changed due to the bending. After that my car was working fine, but my coolant overflow tank kept losing coolant. Had that fixed with the repair shop as well. After that it seemed that my car was working well. Then it started to overheat, and I was informed that my lower radiator hose had a small leak. I had that fixed as well. This is when the constant overheating started.
I assumed that the air needed to be removed from the system. So I had it bleed, and then it seemed to work well, but that was not true seeing as my car continued to overheat of the cold air was on. The only thing that keeps it working is if I turn the heater on. That cools the system off. So now everyday I have to keep letting air out of the radiators, and run the heater if it gets too hot.
I just noticed today that my thermostat housing bolts have coolant on them whenever the engine gets to hot. Do you think it's not right enough, or my radiator cap may be bad?
Replacements:
Head gasket
Thermostat
Radiator hoses
I believe the cap of the radiator as well.
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Touareg C10 TDI ... I would like to do a full exhaust. Looking for input in options without losing any power.
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1999 grand caravan 3.0L approx 250,000 Kilometers / 155,000 miles
Yesterday morning I was on my way to work, highway mainly. We have some cold weather here lately, say this morning low -20c range with a light wind. I was about 15 minutes ( 1/2 way & running fine ) while into my drive when i stopped at a light ( vehicle at operating temp )... light goes green, then i accelerated i felt a slight lurch/hesitation, almost a miss but it kept going and then it seemed to be slightly over revving / under powered to get up to the typical highway speed of 80 KMH / 50 MPH in that area.
It felt a bit low on power and a bit louder than normal, i chalk that up to the fact that after the "lurch" it felt like the trans was, I don't want to say slipping but kind of. It would settle into its final high gear a tad later than normal.
I will say it seems like it is reacting like when you accelerate on a slippery or icy road and the speedometer would/should swing up but you would be creeping or not moving as fast as the speed indicated, but the traction is fine, and the speedo just indicates the actual speed traveling while my foot is in it and it should really be spinning its wheels. It does get up to speed but is lagging...
Ran poorly when i cold started it after the 5 hours at work but made it home with all the same conditions. It smoothed out some as it warmed up
When I am parked the idle seems to hunt in a high low high scenario that repeats itself every few seconds, No codes stored, no CEL, no codes while idling, or under forced load IE running in gear with foot on brake and loading engine. scanned it when i got home.
All fluids are up, the trans fluid is just above the add mark but clean. I did a water pump, timing belt and tensioner a couple months ago...the pump was a weeper, hated that job. New air filter and plugs,cap, rotor wires installed then, say early NOV.Cleaned the throttle body then as well. No fluids on the ground since then. all wires are properly inserted in the cap. I had a cyl misfire code just after the new wires were installed 2 months ago cyls 1,3,5 but that was the cap end terminals were just slightly loose. a push back on and no codes no miss after that, till yesterday? full tank of gas two days ago and have about 100 kmh/60 miles on that tank.
all of these conditions are slight, like they are definitely noticeable but none are extremely worse. I'm thinking sensor? I can snap the throttle when it is running in park and it revs but seems like its not as crisp. I know my dad had trans issues with his 89 GC 3.0L but other than this water pump of late , this thing has treated us very very well. I'm not leaning towards trans, especially since the idle seems wonky/erratic.Previously it wouldn't snap your neck ,but it would downshift and pass or get up and go when you asked, now, not so much...
UPDATE ....THIS MORNING I took it out for a small drive this morning after the school bus came, ran really rough on the cold start, didn't stall but was a RUH - RUH - RUH labored running before engine warmed up. Down the road waiting at the bus stop it stall once while waiting for the bus to arrive. started right back up no issue.
still have a rough ruh ruh ruh ruh kind of sensation like one beat per second timing, very strong when cold, smoothed out to about 90% gone when warmed up but still noticeable. can get it to spin the tires on the icy roads but doesn't seem to accept the acceleration applied to the pedal like it should. i have my foot in it it should either downshift and charge or spin and swing the speedo up... but if i did get the wheels spinningthey would just climb up slower than normal like 30 mph 40 kmh and climbing when it should be climbing and reading the wheelspin at a much faster rate like 40-50 mph and . no codes active or stored ... my OBD tool has an emission " guage " on it likea stoplight, green yellow and red. it does work when i had the misfire after the new wires ( see water pump re&re listed above ) the light was yellow, I refit the wires in the cap and cleared the miss fire code and it read green. figured that tidbitwas worth mentioning.
basically it feels like the engine is being held back, like a heavy , heavy spring would on a carburated vehicle. it still works but has a wet blanket on it.
also will mention in the past week or two I'd say i may have noticed a slightly lower idle speed when stopped at a light but like i mentioned the heater fan and lights aregetting used more often at higher frequency as it has been cold and the sun sets at about 4 pm this time of year
temp here this morning -25c / -13f
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So i have a 2010 gti stage 2 uni, when i have a half tank of gas or less when it reaches about 4000rpm it will loose power harshly that it almost makes u eat the steering wheel, but when it has more than half a tank of gas it drives just fine. I get low pressure fuel rail code when scaned with vagcom...
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I had my car power steering lush at a repair shop! Unfortunately, power steering is too noisy (lot of air trapped). The mechanic fixed right away at the time I picked up my vehicle but still had some noisy, he suggested I drove for few days to get the air out. After a week driving and the air still trapped. I brought my vehicle back to the shop and had the mechanic fixed again! and this time I got power steering leak when I drove home! I returned to the shop and he said he replaced both bad power steering hoses. Noise was gone (engine was at operating temperature).
My power steering is still noisy at a touch of turning steering wheel (not even turn the vehicle), it's noisy when engine first started regardless the temperature outside. I drive my car for few blocks and the noise goes away. I won't bring my car back to the shop anymore, they may make it worse. Logical thinking, I think either the air still trapped deep inside the steering system or the O-rings at hose ends are defective. When engine is cold O-ring is cold and shrink, it does not seal properly and when it reaches operating temperature, O-ring expands and seals properly. That's my thinking, of course, I can be easily wrong. There's no power steering leak to the floor!
Will those after market power steering seal additives like Lucas 10008 and other fix my vehicle power steering issue? is there something I can do at home to fix this?
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I have a 2005 jetta 2.0 Once it gets under half a tank I lose power, it acts like it's running out of gas. It only does it in warmer weather (this started in march when we took it to Florida, once it got back in the cold weather it didn't do it again until 2 days ago when it was in the 70's). I took it to he mechanic I've used since I got the car (he works exclusively on vw and audis). It didn't do it to him in the two weeks he had it, he couldn't find anything wrong that would cause the issue.
He did do a complete tune up, replaced both of my fans and coolant. I ended up replacing the coolant temp sensor myself since that decided to go bad after I got it back. It lost power after getting the car back again warm weather and just under half a tank of gas. Prior to the Florida trip the water pump, timing belt and starter were replaced. I had my fuel pump replaced in 2014. It is an automatic with 157k miles on it.
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fuel gauge does what it wants? It goes down to half way then goes back to full or sometimes even empty. Not a big deal for me because I have gotten used to it. But I would hate to have my wife in here and she thinks it's good and run out.
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