Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 1987 - Stalls But Won't Start?
Nov 8, 2014
I have an ' 87 Caravan/mini ram van with the Mitsu 2.6 4 cylinder engine. It has 180k miles. Always ran great until now. It'll start right up (the first time) on a cold morning with no problems, but runs a little rougher than usual. Before the engine is warmed up on a cold day, needs to wait a little while before starting to drive it. Recently, I've been starting it and letting it idle for about 5-10 minutes. When I start driving it, normally I don't even get out of my driveway, it stalls and won't restart. It seems like the carb might be flooded, but not sure. Could this simply need a tune up? I haven't replaced the plugs yet since I've owned it, I've had it for only a year so far. The previous owner was very meticulous about maintenance.
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I have an odd issue. I bought my car used from the dealer. The fuel pump was replaced last December, as well as had an oil change. The fuel pump died right after the oil change but are seemingly unrelated since the pump was bad when i bought it. After the pump was replaced my van stated acting up over the next couple days. The fuel gauge would dance randomly. That has since settled down. Now when i make left turns, the rpms drop and i have to pump the had to get it going again or else it completely stalls out in the middle of an intersection. .. it had been steadily getting more frequent and only on left turns. Right turns runs fine.
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I got a great deal on this van, and I love it, with one exception. On hot days (73 degrees and hotter) the van will not start if it has been parked in the sun; until the temperature returns down to around 61 degrees (usually overnight, but I have waited it out in the parking lot at work a few times).
When this happens, the lights and radio work fine; the starter motor will not engage. No click, no chugga-chugga vroom-vroom. Sad Curto.
Note: October through about May in North Carolina, this car is fine.
I have replaced the steering column (after replacing the clock spring); I have replaced the Power Distribution Center.
When the problem first surfaced two years ago, I had a mechanic install a wire directly from the starter motor relay to the solenoid. That was an expensive lesson. I'm not sure what the lesson is, so it was REALLY expensive.
So, I thought maybe the Auto Shutdown Relay. Nope... pull that out, and the starter still turns, so that is not my problem. Now I am starting to thing Powertrain Control Module, or something else that could have a temperature-sensitive component.
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I have a 1993 Grand Caravan 3.3L V6. When I leave the van set for a couple a of days (or even overnight) and then start it, I have no oil pressure for a minute or so. After the engine has been running for about a minute or so the oil pressure finally comes up but not to normal. Once the engine has warmed up the oil pressure returns to what could be considered "normal". After the cold start, no oil pressure problem, the engine and the oil pressure is fine for the rest of the day. Let it even set overnight though and I have a repeat no oil pressure with start up.
I am thinking that there is a problem with the pick up tube not sealing properly and allowing the oil to bleed down while the engine is off for an extended period of time. So, in effect, I have to basically prime the oil pump at each start up. I haven't noticed any leaks of engine oil anywhere, so I am thinking that this is an internal problem. Is there a check valve or O-Ring associated with the pick up tube or oil pump that may cause this problem? Is it a fairly easy problem to correct? On this engine the oil pump is located in the front of the engine block behind the timing chain cover. (As best as I could determine from the Haynes Manual).
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We have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan which keeps on shutting off or sometimes will not start up. When it has problems starting up, there is no turn over of the engine. Just nothing. After awhile, it will start up. During driving, it will just shut off. At first it would start right back up but now it will not start right back up. We have replaced the computer and the crank shaft sensor. We have taken it to two dealerships and they do not have any ideas as to how to fix it beyond what we have done. Our mechanic is baffled. He has checked the wiring and sensors but cannot find the problem.
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My 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan has intermittent trouble starting. The starter has been replaced twice, and the WIN Module (and key) have been replaced. The same issue has been occuring, but never duplicates for the dealership. Their computer scan brings up no issues. The battery has been tested and is in good condition. It doesn't matter the time of day, or driving circumstances, the van will not always start.
It will have one click (and I can close the windows, turn on radio) but the van will not start. The Chrysler Dodge corporate office is getting me nowhere (big surprise there) and is not standing behind their customers-and Lampe Dodge is no better-so now I'm compiling information on my own to figure out the issue (since they are at a standstill with the van). What should I do now?
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This question concerns starting our 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan with 170K. The problem started about a week ago. When turning the key to start the engine, nothing would happen. No click, no noise, no engine turnover. By turning the key to off and then back on several times, the starter would kick in normally. The starter has never been replaced and I don't recall any electrical work ever being done on the car. I take it to our mechanic about every 2 years for a tune up and replacement of belts and hoses as needed.I have a friend that is a good shade tree mechanic and he is willing to replace the starter.My question is: Is the problem most likely a bad starter and if so, is replacement by my friend a reasonably easy task.
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I had my car power steering lush at a repair shop! Unfortunately, power steering is too noisy (lot of air trapped). The mechanic fixed right away at the time I picked up my vehicle but still had some noisy, he suggested I drove for few days to get the air out. After a week driving and the air still trapped. I brought my vehicle back to the shop and had the mechanic fixed again! and this time I got power steering leak when I drove home! I returned to the shop and he said he replaced both bad power steering hoses. Noise was gone (engine was at operating temperature).
My power steering is still noisy at a touch of turning steering wheel (not even turn the vehicle), it's noisy when engine first started regardless the temperature outside. I drive my car for few blocks and the noise goes away. I won't bring my car back to the shop anymore, they may make it worse. Logical thinking, I think either the air still trapped deep inside the steering system or the O-rings at hose ends are defective. When engine is cold O-ring is cold and shrink, it does not seal properly and when it reaches operating temperature, O-ring expands and seals properly. That's my thinking, of course, I can be easily wrong. There's no power steering leak to the floor!
Will those after market power steering seal additives like Lucas 10008 and other fix my vehicle power steering issue? is there something I can do at home to fix this?
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1996 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 L engine. When the outside temp is a good range (50 degrees F & above) there is no problem starting. But when it gets below 40 deg. F and really chilly outside temp, I still have strong battery power, but when I switch on the ignition, I don't hear the normal fuel pump activation swirl sound and does not crank - simply silent click. Then I can wait when the outside temp improves and cranks up no problem.
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My 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan's most recent problem has baffled 2 garages so far. It is now in a 3rd one that specializes in auto electric issues. When I turn on the left signal it flashes a few times then the RIGHT side starts to flash. When I turn the right signal on you got it the LEFT side flashes! I installed a new multi function switch and NO CHANGE!
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96 intrepid, 3.5 motor. Runs fine, no loss of power or odd behavior but will just die. Like flipping a switch. Refuses to start. I checked fuel pressure and it's good. No codes. Does this motor have a MAF? Sure can't find one. It has the odd split intake plenum. 1 air box but 2 separate inlet ducts to each side of motor. The motor is not transverse. It has 2 throttle bodies on the firewall side of motor with a shaft that runs between them. So eventually it starts. Idles fine. I watch it idle. And click, it shuts off.
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1993 Dodge Ram 2500 .... Multiple symptoms... some times engine turns over but truck will not start. sometimes engine dies whether driving at slow or high speeds. Happens whether engine is cold or warm. After sitting a while, the truck starts and will run for several days. Has 40 lbs of fuel pressure, we've changed out the ignition switch, crank sensor, distributor cap, rotor, pickup, engine control module, crank shaft position sensor.This has been happening for three months, I've been towed in 4 times. When mechanic connects diagnostic tool to the ecm, the engine starts and runs fine. Diagnostic shows no data of previous problem.
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I have a 2004 Grand Caravan 3.8 engine. For the last 2 months the oil light has been coming on when car is first started. If I stop engine and start again the light will be off. I don't think its actual oil pressure because the car runs fine with light on or off. I'm thinking a bad pressure sensor?
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Sometimes when I start my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 liter engine, the oil light comes on and stays on, even if I rev engine up. Engine sounds normal, does not sound like oil pressure is low. If I turn engine off and the immediately back on, light goes out and stays out. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit - didn't work. I hooked up a gauge - engine has 60 psi oil pressure at idle - plenty! I'm guessing an electrical problem in the circuit.
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I have a 2005 Grand Caravan, this winter has been a cold one. The GC has always started without problem but after I back out of my parking spot, it sits outside, I put it into Drive and it will not move and after I give it a little gas it would still not move. None of the gears seem to work, but if I wait a little bit and the Van warms a little more it will go into gear and all is good. This does not happen all the time and when it does go into gear and I drive I do not have anymore problems until the next time it will "act up" on me again. Is this a problem or is it a cold problem and not a transmission problem?
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My 2000 Dodge Grand caravan loses its gauges every so often. engine light comes on as well as ABS...
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I have a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan with 120,000 miles. Starting at about 45mph the car has a really bad shimmy when accelerating. The shimmy fades starting at about 55 mph. There is no shimmy when not accelerating. Gently applying the breaks has no effect on the shimmy. I've put on new tires, Change the steering rack and struts and the engine and tranny mounts. what could be causing this?
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I have a '09 Dodge caravan. The ABS, ESP, TCS, and Brake lights are on. As we drive along the brakes apply, probably on only wheel. After we stop, we can drive on for a short way and it happens again. A mechanic told us that the steering sensor was telling the computer that the steering wheel was turned all the way to the left. I wonder if I pulled the fuse for the ABS pump and ABS valve if it would be safe to drive, at least until we can get it to the dealer for repair. I am cheap and like to get by as cheaply as I can/. I am not fond of ABS, or TCS any way?
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Lifters are rattling. They have been replaced and are still rattling.
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I have a 1998 Grand Caravan 3.8L engine with 157K on it. A month ago changed the EGR valve and replaced the transmission oil. Two days ago, went for shopping, parked the van. Came back and did not start (no crank, nothing). Called AAA, checked for battery, which was good. Radio, wiper, lights work. Had to tow to the shop. The mechanic checked for all possible problems. Said everything (Fuse, battery, starter motor, alternator) is good. He is clueless. Told him to check the ignition switch (may be worn out). He says it doesn't seem so.
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The 96 Caravan I bought a year ago came equipped with an aftermarket dent in the oil pan. It's a bent up generally flat, not all at one point, but there's no leak and no other apparent problem, though of course it does reduce the oil capacity. When I had some overdue warranty work done at a dealer, the service writer told me the dent is exactly where the the oil pickup is, which mostly sounded like the dealer looking for some extra work. I decided I'd replace the pan myself when I had enough miles on the car to see if it was worth the effort.
The pan has a lower sump area that measures roughly 5" x 7" and that entire portion is pushed up somewhat evenly. I'd estimate the deepest part of the deformation is almost an inch, so less than 35 cubic inches lost capacity. 35 cu in = .606 quart.
I can buy a new oil pan w/ gasket at Rock Auto for a shade over fifty bucks to add to an order I otherwise need to place with them. A used pan at the local junkyard would cost ten or twenty bucks plus my labor plus the gasket, which I judge as not enough cheaper to be worth my time and inconvenience (they want me to capture the used oil and take it with me). So it's either buy the new oil pan, or fix something else. Or pull the pan, bend it back to shape, and replace the gasket? It appears to me that the pan gasket may be seeping, though not enough to drip, so it's probably due for a gasket anyway.
Should I care about this, or learn to love the dent?
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