Dodge - Durango - Transmissions :: 2003 - Jerk When Shift Automatically
Mar 7, 2011
I recently, within last 2 weeks, started to have what feels like a "jerk" when my automatic Durango shifts. The "jerk" occurs when the car is cold (sporadic) and after the car is hot. When the car is hot it's a lot more noticeable and frequent. The durango has over 120K miles and the last transmission fluid flush it had, and the only one done, was about 99K.
I took it to my mechanic, he didn't do the transmission flush, and after a whole day of tests and diagnostics he says that the car has all the right timings and the only thing he could recommend is a transmission flush. He thinks the viscosity or correct viscosity could be causing this. My mechanic is fair and one of the better ones I've dealt with. In fact me didn't charge me at all for the work done.
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I recently purchased a 2006 Ford F-150 XLT and don't know very much about it, nor Fords in general. I was just wondering if there is any way to have the power doors unlock automatically when I shift into Park or turn the ignition off? It has the option to have the doors automatically lock once I reach 5-10 mph, but I can't find any information about programming it to unlock automatically. It doesn't have the programmable computer display, so everything requires pressing a bunch of buttons when the key is turned on accessory and things like that. I have kids who are always in the back seats, and it gets annoying trying to get them out of the truck when it's off and I forget to manually unlock them.
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My name is Jason and I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with an automatic transmission. It has trouble shifting. I have to drop it down from D into 2 and then back into D to get it to shift out of second gear most of the time. If I have to stop ten times in a trip I have to manually shift it about seven or eight of those times. On top of that, sometimes while I'm driving it will slip into Neutral but it'll still be in the D position. This just started and has only happened a few times so far. My transmission fluid levels are fine. I'm trying to see if there is any other solution besides rebuilding or replacing my transmission.
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My 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.8L engine won't shift going up hill. On any incline, it stays in the gear it was in when the incline starts and will never upshift. So we're stuck going 20 to 25MPH up hill. Once we get to the crest of the hill, it shifts to the next gear and we're good to go. From a standing still on flat land, if I nail the accelerator pedal, it also won't shift, I have to back off the accelerator, and it will upshift normally. What's up with this?
Have engine light on and the code indicates a bad EGR valve, and possibly a bad catalytic converter, but Autozone indicated that a bad EGR can also produce a code for a bad catalytic converter. They recommended replacing the EGR valve first, then see if the code comes back. But they didn't know if this would cause a loss of torque, which might be related to the shifting problem.
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I have a 03 Dodge Durango whose ignition switch has gone to pot. Key won't turn at all. Got a new switch to replace it (which will be a totally easy swap out) BUT, the key won't turn so I can't unlock the latch/push pin/button to release it.
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The Dodge Durango coolant leak is coming from the right side. Is it a hose or something bigger.
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2003 Dodge Durango 4wd, 4.7 liter, 130,000 miles ... I'm having a problem with stalling. First started about 3 months ago, when I would come to a stop, the rpm's would fall off drastically, but would rebound right away. About a week later, it would actually stall, but I could start it without a problem. Took it to a local shop where they said my cam sensor needed replacement. That was done and it ran good for about 2 weeks when the same thing started again.
Took it back to the same shop and they told me that the cam sensor had gone bad or the sensor that had been put in was faulty. They replaced it at no charge to me, but they said that the crank sensor needed to be flashed and that had to be done by the dealer. So off to the dealer I went, and they told me that the crank sensor needed to be replaced not flashed. I had them do that and it ran good for about 2 weeks again and now it's starting to stall again.
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Just started getting a p0300 random misfire code on the durango a couple days ago. pretty sure it isn't moisture related since it started on a nice sunny day. it was running pretty rough so it was obvious that it was misfiring. I changed the plugs since it was about time anyway, and they needed it and I cleared the codes. new plugs (put in the oem champion copper plugs) didn't make the problem go away. The engine still ran rough and the code came back. 2 of the plugs looked like they may have been fouling a little bit. they were a fair bit blacker than the rest of the plugs. I went ahead and changed the coils on those two cylinders and reset the codes again. Still runs rough and the p0300 came back. where do I go from here? I am not getting any specific cylinder codes so it makes sense to me that it isn't one or two cylinders not getting spark. 2003 durango 4.7 ....
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2003 F150 XLT 7700 4x4 5.4 Triton. While accelerating normally from a stop the transmission? shifts into 2nd with a heavy jerk. All other gears normal. It doesn't do this under hard acceleration or under very gentle and slow throttle application. Is this a COP issue, a transmission issue or just a driving style thing?
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Ozzy is a 2003 Hyundai Accent with an automatic transmission. Over the last 2 year he has been having a lot of problems with his transmission. The first thing that was done was to replace his transmission fluid. Unfortunately the chuckle head that replaced his transmission fluid put the wrong kind in and he had to have a whole new transmission installed. And now only about a year later Ozzy is having transmission problems yet again. What is happening is that it feels like the car is struggling to shift gears and then once in gear it will suddenly accelerate.
Also, the idle races even when your foot is not on the gas pedal and yes, the check engine light is on. So, I have a couple of questions. First how much longer can she keep driving it like this before the engine falls out somewhere on the 405? Secondly how much is it going to cost to repair Ozzy? Also her driving the car when it is behaving this way is really dangerous, right? Because it felt pretty scary today when I was sitting in the passenger's seat and we were doing 75 on the freeway and Ozzy was shaking and making all sorts a noise. And lastly, she needs a new mechanic right, there is no way she should keep going to these guys that put the wrong fluid in and then replaced her transmission, right?
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I own a '96 Honda Accord EX (4 speed transmission) currently with 133,000 miles on it. Last February (2014) I downshifted the car while going up a hill (yes, I now know that was a bad idea) and the subsequent jerk was immediately followed by a check engine light. The code was P0715 for Turbine Speed Sensor Failure; I read up what I could on Google, and brought the car to a Honda Center a couple days later to have a diagnostic run. They said the transmission was still okay and working fine, but recommended a transmission flush to replace all the fluid and clean the filter/pan (I can't remember exactly), which I did. They said the transmission would continue to deteriorate and that I should be aware that it will probably fail at some point, but the flush should buy me some time. (I've since read about transmission flushes as well.)
Fast forward to now, the car is still driving okay and the check engine light has stayed off. The transmission shifts into every gear and has not caused me any issues, but I can tell it's getting jerkier. I've driven Sprinters with terrible transmissions where you can fully feel a 'thud' as it shifts and, my car is not there yet, but it's deteriorating. Work put into the car over the past two years includes replacing 2 wheel bearings, fixing the CV axle, and replacing the spark plugs, with maintenance and the flush it ... (it had only 108,000 miles in 2012 and has since been cross-country twice).
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I have a 2005 Dodge Durango, 4.7 V-8, 76,000 miles. When I come to a stop I smell oil that comes thru the air vents. It goes away when I go down the road. I have heard this discussed before on the show but cannot remember what it was.
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I have a 2001 Dodge Durango, I just changed the catalytic converter, the truck acts like it isn't getting any gas, when I drive it above 65 mph for 20 miles, but I can pull to the side of the road for a min or two and go again, it keeps doing this. I can drive it all day in town no problem. Comp. says misfire on 1,2,,&4.
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I have a 2005 Durango, ~142k miles. The end of May, I had to get the transmission solenoid replaced, which may not be relevant. About 10 days later, the car started overheating when idling. There was a crack on the radiator neck, by the cap, and I had to get the radiator replaced, and the thermostat. The shop said the fan was wobbling, and they replaced the fan clutch as well. The fan was a lot louder than it had been, the mechanic said he had put in a higher performance fan in and maybe that was why, and offered to put in a lower performance one if I wanted. I declined.
Six weeks later, it started overheating while idling again. I brought it back, and the water pump was out. By now I was checking the temperature gauge constantly when idling, and it never quite hit the center until suddenly after 4 weeks, then it suddenly started overheating while idling again. I brought it back again, and they couldn't find any problem except he said the radiator was about a cup low, and maybe there had been an air bubble.
I've been constantly checking the temperature gauge since, and it once again never quite hit middle until 2 days ago, and now suddenly it's overheating when idling. I checked the coolant level after it had been sitting for a couple hours (and I had only driven it for about 10 minutes so far this morning, before that. I'm afraid there is a blown head gasket or something, but if so, why would it run so well for an extended period, and then suddenly start overheating again, twice now? They haven't done a compression check.
In case this is relevant, every few days the car will just stall out when coming to a stop, and sometimes the idle seems rough.
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I have a 2005 Durango and it just dies on me and when I shut it off it won't start. It turns over but nothing else, Just started today. Starter? Crank sensor?
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I have an intermittent squealing that comes from behind the radio. The fan must be turned on and it does not matter if the AC is on or off. At 30 mph or when you turn the fan off the noise stops. I have replaced the fan, also the fan is located under the dash on the right hand, side away from the noise. As I said this an intermittent problem so it is hard to find. This problem is on a 2001 Dodge Durango with 150,000 miles.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Durango SLT 5.2L (318) 4x4. My problem is that there is no air or heat coming from any of my vents. It started out where there was no air coming out on the lowest setting. Then a few days later, no air from the next highest setting. It then continued to where absolutely no air coming from any setting. I don't know where to even start looking.
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Early this morning, after a night of freezing rain, i noticed the rear wipers running even though the car/ignition/wiper switch were all off. truck had not been started in over 24 hours. was unable to stop motor from running except only by disconnecting battery lead terminal. on trip to local mechanic hours later, motor would not stop, except when I turned-on front wipers -- then the rear motor would immediately stop at whatever position wiper blade was in. motor would not park blade. only tripping the front (separate) wiper switch would interrupt power to rear wiper motor. At mechanic, problem would not reappear. learned later that similarly, the front wipers would not quit two weeks earlier. at that time, the front wipers eventually stopped some time after ignition was killed and vehicle sat idle with all switches off. Common thread is problem appears during rain storms and does not manifest during dry times.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Durango, 8cyl., auto transmission with about 211K miles on it.For several months now the car has problems shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. It goes from first to second without trouble, but to get to third I have to over-rev the engine and then let off the gas and then give it a small bit of extra juice for it to catch the third gear. In the past it seemed to happen only AFTER the engine got hot. Interestingly for the last couple of months it shifted just fine, maybe because it's very cold outside.
Today, the transmission gave me a ton of problems and I was afraid it would give up on me before getting home. It just wouldn't shift into 3rd gear at all. I limped the last 5 miles home in 2nd gear. Checked fluid and that was fine. I added a 1/2 quart. After a few hours I drove the car for short distances at various speeds to force the transmission to shift. At first it seemed to be OK again, but as soon as the engine got hot I ran into the same problem again.
I last changed the fluid 3K miles ago, but before that I drove it for 120K miles without a change. What to look for now or is this a job for a specialist? A neighbor of mine suggested to pour a cup of acetone down the transmission and this would "clean up" and cut through the gum and varnish. I am not so sure this is a good idea, but wonder what it could do to seals and other rubber-type things inside the transmission.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Durango, 8 cylinders, with 200K miles. For the last 6 months the transmission is sometimes hesitating shifting from 2nd to 3rd. I have to play with the gas at around 25-2700 rpm before it smoothly shifts into 3rd. Downhill or when accelerating slow it shifts OK. It also seems to shift much better when the weather is cooler and the engine is not hot.
I changed the transmission fluid, filter and speed sensor, but it did not work. While it does not seem like an emergency I like to see what I can do next to fix this problem before it gets worse. What else I should look at?
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Ok, so, my heater works, I can feel the hot air coming out of the vents, but no matter what setting I use, I can't get the blower to kick on. The hot air just trickles out. What might be wrong, and how much, or how hard it would be to fix? The weird part is that sometimes the fan will work.
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