Dodge - Durango :: 2003 - Stalling / RPMs Would Fall Off Drastically When Come To A Stop
Sep 9, 2011
2003 Dodge Durango 4wd, 4.7 liter, 130,000 miles ... I'm having a problem with stalling. First started about 3 months ago, when I would come to a stop, the rpm's would fall off drastically, but would rebound right away. About a week later, it would actually stall, but I could start it without a problem. Took it to a local shop where they said my cam sensor needed replacement. That was done and it ran good for about 2 weeks when the same thing started again.
Took it back to the same shop and they told me that the cam sensor had gone bad or the sensor that had been put in was faulty. They replaced it at no charge to me, but they said that the crank sensor needed to be flashed and that had to be done by the dealer. So off to the dealer I went, and they told me that the crank sensor needed to be replaced not flashed. I had them do that and it ran good for about 2 weeks again and now it's starting to stall again.
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Just last night I noticed that when I was at a stop light my RPM would go high then low and when driving it felt like when she was changing gears alil rough (if that makes sense). This morning she started up just fine but as soon as I put into drive it stalled. Turned her off and started right up and then in drive stalled again....did this three times and I gave up. Last night when I was at a stop light I thought TPS because when I first bought her I had to change it, so it felt alil familiar, but back then (5 yrs ago) she never stalled.
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I am wondering what would cause the idle on a 1992 bmw 525i to drastically rise and fall continuously.
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I have a 2005 Durango. Started stalling out only a few days after I bought it (June 2010). Replaced EGR valve. Throttle body service. Back to the dealer several more times--couldn't find problem. Stalling, revving, hard shifting, hesitating, lack of power progressively worsened. Transmission rebuilt in Jan 2012, bell housing leak and repair in June 2012, torque converter clutch, water pump, idler pully, fuel injector, coil, vacuum sensor, air intake sensor, knock sensor, PCV valve, plugs and wires, and probably a few others I can't recall all addressed at one point or another. Continues to stall (often at shift changes, and at any speed from start up to 40 MPH), revs in park and at a stops, hesitates, hard/ delayed shifting, and doesn't like wet conditions. Am at a loss for a solution at this point and vehicle is just danged dangerous to drive as it stalls at the most inopportune times!!
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I have a 2005 Dodge Durango, 4.7 V-8, 76,000 miles. When I come to a stop I smell oil that comes thru the air vents. It goes away when I go down the road. I have heard this discussed before on the show but cannot remember what it was.
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2002 Dodge Durango 6.9 R/T... I had my bearings replaced 3 weeks ago. And about 1 week later after 40 mins in stop and go traffic I started smelling this hot metal and rubber smell. Then my breaks got really tight when I pressed the paddle. Is this related to having my bearings replaced, what could be causing this to happen every time I am in the car 40 mins or more. It's happened 4 times now and the first time it started smoking. I'm really nervous to drive my truck in stop and go traffic.
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I have a 03 Dodge Durango whose ignition switch has gone to pot. Key won't turn at all. Got a new switch to replace it (which will be a totally easy swap out) BUT, the key won't turn so I can't unlock the latch/push pin/button to release it.
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I recently, within last 2 weeks, started to have what feels like a "jerk" when my automatic Durango shifts. The "jerk" occurs when the car is cold (sporadic) and after the car is hot. When the car is hot it's a lot more noticeable and frequent. The durango has over 120K miles and the last transmission fluid flush it had, and the only one done, was about 99K.
I took it to my mechanic, he didn't do the transmission flush, and after a whole day of tests and diagnostics he says that the car has all the right timings and the only thing he could recommend is a transmission flush. He thinks the viscosity or correct viscosity could be causing this. My mechanic is fair and one of the better ones I've dealt with. In fact me didn't charge me at all for the work done.
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The Dodge Durango coolant leak is coming from the right side. Is it a hose or something bigger.
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I have a 1994 Dodge Spirit, with 142k miles on it. Twice in recent months it has has unexplained stalling fits. In December, it would stall whenever I came to a stop. I took it into the shop, but they couldn't replicate it and couldn't find anything wrong. Yesterday, it stalled while I was driving, and would then immediately stall when I restarted the car. The shop managed to replicate the stalling once, but after a two hour inspection still couldn't find out what was wrong; they checked the vacuums.
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Just started getting a p0300 random misfire code on the durango a couple days ago. pretty sure it isn't moisture related since it started on a nice sunny day. it was running pretty rough so it was obvious that it was misfiring. I changed the plugs since it was about time anyway, and they needed it and I cleared the codes. new plugs (put in the oem champion copper plugs) didn't make the problem go away. The engine still ran rough and the code came back. 2 of the plugs looked like they may have been fouling a little bit. they were a fair bit blacker than the rest of the plugs. I went ahead and changed the coils on those two cylinders and reset the codes again. Still runs rough and the p0300 came back. where do I go from here? I am not getting any specific cylinder codes so it makes sense to me that it isn't one or two cylinders not getting spark. 2003 durango 4.7 ....
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2001 hyundai elantra. Car is almost stalling randomly at stop lights. Low rpms under 500 and stops. Sometimes drops to 100 rpms then shoots up to 500 right before it might stall. Engine light came up got misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 with codes p0440 and u0d00.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Intrepid. Here's the deal. When I drive on the highway (higher speeds) and then slow down, the car (automatic transmission) automatically downshifts drastically (like throw me through the windshield drastically) and then will not come out of that lower gear.. UNLESS I turn off the engine and restart it, THEN it fixes itself (took me a while to discover this). When I am driving around town at lower speeds this does not happen. Only if I get to higher speeds and then slow down. And one other symptom...SOMETIMES I can just be at a stop light/sign, still in drive, but when I put on the gas to go, it stays, like the car is in neutral, even though the gearshift is still in drive.
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It's not that it won't start, but it accelerates like crap when it gets "cold" out. What do I mean by "cold"? Apparently 60F or less. During May and June my van worked great. Now, just with a bit of nip in the air, she doesn't drive the same.
Symptoms:- When in Drive, the van lurches while idling.- Accelerating from a stop is VERY slow and risks stalling every so often. I could literally floor the accelerator and she'll go a couple MPH.- Between 1 and 45MPH the van will occasionally buck. Meaning the acceleration will either dip or spike so the drive isn't "smooth".- If it's real cold, when accelerating from a stop (or rolling stop) something goes "pop", almost like a mini-backfire.
Van is a Dodge Ram Van B250 1988. V8
During May and June she drove like a dream (well, as much as a 1988 Van that probably needs some extra care). I missed the smooth driving. And come Winter I know I'm it's going to take the van forever to get up to 50MPH on the highway.
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It showed up when the car wouldnt start. It would start but the rpms would just fall then shuts down. And now I have been having issues with the car not starting. At times it would start on the first try and others i have literally tried over 10 times and it wouldnt start... eventually it always starts but i dont want to get to the point where i get stranded.
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I have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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Have a 2001 CRV that is running really bad. It almost stalls when I put it in gear or even when the RPM's fall to idle. It is now throwing a p0172 code. I have a simple scan tool and verified the MAP reading and primary O2 voltages as suggested by the manual, both appeared to be normal. It seems all the symptoms point to valve clearance, however the valve were adjusted not 2000 miles ago by the dealer during the 150K service, and this issue has existed before and after that adjustment. I also cleaned the IAC screen with no changes.
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I just turned on my car to move it out of the drive way and i noticed it starts rising when cold probably like 25-50 rpm then goes down, then back, and so on. i never noticed this before. is it a cold start assist or something like that ? i dont believe it does it when cold ( never noticed )...
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Our '03 Dodge Grand Caravan has been stalling sometimes in reverse and in first gear when starting to move. This usually only occurs if we hadn't yet driven it that day, or if it has completely cooled.
Put it in reverse and give it a little gas to get out of the spot, turn the wheel, and it stalls.. Park - Restart - Drive, and any attempt to press the gas normally probably results in stalling again. This presents a problem as I get to a stop sign and it stalls while in the middle of an intersection...so there is danger to this problem.
The only way I have found to somewhat thwart the problem is to ever so lightly feather the gas, and I mean I don't even push it, I tap-tap-tap it. This usually results in not stalling, but a slight lunge in acceleration.
There is a check engine light on and the code is for the emissions Evap. solenoid. Does this have anything to do with it? If not, what the heck is going on?!
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I have a 2.7L flex fuel Dodge Stratus with 120K+ miles on it and a problem local mechanics and the Dodge dealership cannot seem to locate. When the engine is hot, and only when it's hot, the car will jerk suddenly while driving for a split second, then resume normal operations. It feels almost like you hit something and is scaring the bejeesus out of my wife. It also sometimes stalls out when at a light after sitting at idle for a few seconds. It idles down from 600 RPM like the air conditioning compressor is cutting on and then dies completely.
The car shows no error codes and the check engine light does not come on when this happens. I have replaced the spark plugs, and the transmission solenoid, which is what the Dodge dealer said "fixed" the car for almost $900, and it did it again on the way home from the dealership. My next idea was to change the fuel filter, or maybe the cam position sensor or timing belt or chain. I wonder if I am just trowing money down a hole at this point though, since Kelly Blue Book on this car is under 2K anyway.
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