Dodge - Dart :: 1969 Misfires / Tremble And Shuts Off When At Idle
Sep 2, 2013
I recently purchased a 1969 dodge dart, with the 225 inline 6. I have done the usual repairs (fluid changes, spark plugs and wires, fuel pump and line, thermostat, and even carburetor and distributor). The car starts and drives alright except when at idle such as red lights where it begins to tremble and shuts off. I have to start it again and begin to accelerate it while idling to keep it from giving out. I fixed the timing and switched to electrical distributor but the problem has persisted.
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I haven't owned a manual transmission in a while so I need to know if this is normal. When shifting into any gear I have to force the shifter into gear with quite a bit of force. Almost like it's hitting something and then going into gear. There's no screeching or grinding. It does the same thing when pulling out of gear.
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ok, i just became the proud owner of a 71 dodge dart.. fuel pump was not working, and am converting to an electric (airtex e8016s) and am told i need a relay. airtex doesn't seem to have one, is there another i can use? fairly new at this sort of thing, but have fixed a 72 honda motorbike, so not afraid of engines or whatnot.
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I have a mystery on my hands and am at a complete loss. I have a 1969 Volkswagen Beetle that will not hold an idle. It will start up just fine and as long as you have your foot on the gas, it will stay alive. As soon as you let off the car sputters and dies. Another symptom is that the is a miss in the engine, not sure if the two are related or need to time it and then check on the idle. Here is what I have done in an attempt to fix the issue:
I have been able to adjust the idle to get it to stay alive for about 30 seconds longer, but no matter ho much I adjust it still struggles and dies. Idles very rough no matter what.
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Replaced the condenser and points (adjusted the points properly etc.)
Replaced and gapped the spark plugs
Replaced the idle cutoff solenoid
Adjusted the automatic choke
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Some have suggested a vacuum leak, and i know i have to put some sort of solution on the vacuum connections, but since I am relatively new to the world of VW beetles I am not quite sure where those are and what to put on and what to do if there is a leak.
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My 96 caravan started misfiring and then it clears ..and then it misfires.. if I get on the highway it clears after a mile or so.. and stays running smooth till I stop and shut it of , thought i got water in the tank but that was 2000 Miles ago ....it's old but it's My work truck...
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I drive a 2006 Scion tC with 96000 mileage. The car has been getting a lot of problems lately.
1. P0741 torque converter engine light
2. Lost in power
3. Lost in MPG
4. Shakes a lot inside
5. Low Idle
6. engine shuts off on reverse and d mode
7. Noisy strange sounds
8. Gear slip around 2-3
9. RPM goes high at low speed.
I Replaced,Spark plugs, coil plugs, engine oil, coolant, steering fluid, brake fluid. I need to to replace the transmission fluid. I was told by a couple of shops to get a transmission rebuild....
I also read someones comment online: "It's your transmission. Your torque converter is bad. There is too much torque as a result. When your car is in neutral or park there is no torque being created. When you leave the in gear idle state, the torque is relieved. That is why the problem will go away when you hit the gas."
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Our van shuts off while driving. This means I have no power to brakes or steering. The only warning light that comes on is the traction control light. Therefore when hooked up to diagnostics there is no information. We have had it to 3 different places with no results or answers. We did have the ignition switch recall performed. We have filed claims with Chrysler with no answers other than arbitration and with the NHTSA.
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In the last few months, I've been having misfires at idle. I didn't realize at first what the vibration was, since I had cams installed over the summer and had my flywheel replaced a couple of weeks ago. I have replaced the plugs and coil packs and for a couple of days, it ran fine. Tonight, they started up again, mostly in a single cylinder. I swapped out coil packs - no change. Switched plugs between two cylinders - the misfire followed the plug. Swapped in an old plug - things improved, misfires went from 2-3 per second to maybe one every 5-10 seconds. Few to no misfires when revs go up. My battery is 5 years old, could that be an issue? Wire harnesses - do they go bad?
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The problem I am having started about a year ago, the car audio will suddenly shut off while playing, at first I could get a few minutes, then other times 30 minutes of audio playing, now I cannot even get a minute before it shuts itself off. What happens is the audio will play then it will start to cut out for a brief few seconds and get really low so that you can barely hear it. Then it completely cuts out and you can hear a small bass thump from the rear passenger speaker.
I thought it might have been a speaker issue so I disconnected both rear speakers, the same problem presented itself, however there was no bass thump (obviously as the speakers were disconnected).
It seemed like at first when it was really cold out out (-35C) it would stay on longer, now I cannot get any more than a minute regardless of temperature outside. The deck stays on and if I push the power button on and off it will come back for a brief second and shut right back off - Although when you try to turn it back on it has that really low muffled sound you can barely hear; seems like you have to wait at least 10 minutes before you can even regain 5 seconds of clear audio before shutting off.
I should also note that when the audio does cut out I am able to drop the volume knob and it shows the audio level decreasing, however it will not let me raise the audio level until I power on and off - It just gets stuck at whatever number the audio shut off at or I can lower the volume knob (not like it makes a difference since there is no audio coming out).
This is a factory deck in a Dodge Caliber 2010 SXT with absolutely no modifications to the cars audio or any other area.
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1999 F150 has a tremble or vibration between 27 and 40 MPH it does it in any gear but only between these speeds. I thought to begin with it might be a slight misfire, but seems like if that was the cause it would happen at any speed...
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I've got a R32 with nearly 100K miles on it. Several days ago I was adjusting my shifter cables and am not sure if i accidentally leaned up against any sensors or their associated connectors that are in that vicinity. I took the car for a drive to feel how the shifter adjustment had turned out. I was building engine RPM from 2500-4000 RPM, I let off the acceleration pedal and felt a small and new kick as if something got loose, popped off, or backfired. Not sure what it was but my engine started to misfire in what seemed to be in several cylinders. It idles rough but the needle doesn't exceed 1000 RPM during idle. When driving calmly, there is sporadic misfire. If pushed hard to build RPM, it will misfire heavily.
I scanned the vehicle and got the following codes,
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
I've checked
- Every hose I can see and feel for Vacuum leaks
- Checked all my fuses
- Swapped coils from banks 1,3,5, with 2,4,6
- Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected camshaft hall sender sensors and tightened the bolts.
- Have erased the coded and the same codes are back.
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2005 gti 1.8t having really rough idle and misfires at idle fine while driving pulling codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
Unplugged MAF and didn't make a difference...
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So I took a trip from Dallas to Florida, and on the way back my check engine light came on. The car shakes at idle, almost like it wants to take off. I drove it back to Dallas like that since the car runs normal on the high way. I got it scanned at autozone and the code said it had multiple random misfires. I'll be taking to the dealer in the morning, but what it could be? The car jumped over 50K during the trip hopefully the dealer will be nice and cover it.
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I have an 03 vr6. I'm getting codes p0300, 0303, and 0304. I changed the plugs and the coils and still has changed nothing. In the morning when I first go to start the car it has a rough start and idles rough. But after letting it warm up it is fine. It drives perfectly fine, no misfires. None of this started happening until the car ran hot a few weeks ago. Did a compression test and everything came up fine. So would could my issue be? I'm at a loss here. I was thinking fuel issue but if it was a fuel issue, wouldn't it run rough all the time?
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When I start my 1999 1.8 petrol passat it needs some throttle to start, low idle speed, misfires, drop in idle, so boot the throtle full - still no pick up and sits on 1000 rpm busy backfiring away! It started after fitting a new windscreen wiper motor, battery was disconnected but went back ok, all other electrics work and no warning on the dash. Didn't touch anything in the engine bay nor were there any issues before I changed the wiper motor.
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I am trying to track down a problem for a friend with a 2001 Passat, 1.8L. The car has 150k and had a timing belt about 50k ago. About 3 weeks ago, it started misfiring badly on idle. In gear driving around, it purrs like a kitten. I scanned for codes and got:
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 4B0 906 018 CL
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 16551
9 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
At first I thought it might be a vacuum leak, but it looks like when he took it in 2 weeks ago they replaced all the vacuum hoses. It is unclear when he last had sparks and coils. I understand the likely culprits are:
sparks
coils
ICM
I am hesitant to blame sparks/coils if he is getting misfires on all 4 cyl. It seems like they might have screwed up the timing belt install given the camshaft sensor error, but he's been running for 50k miles since the change, and this idle issue just appeared recently.
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I have 11 tiguan 2.0T. When I start it up is runs rough below 1200 rpm. The check engine light starts flashing. The codes are all 4 cylinders for random cylinder misfire. When I go drive it around the roughness calms down but doesn't go away and the idle will start jumping up and down. It goes to 1500 back to 800. Then 1700 back to 800. It had even hit 2400 once. I have changed the pcv about 2 months ago. I checked it and it looks fine. One place said maf. I cleaned it and no change. Running out of options.
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2002 V10 72k, starts fine, runs fine, occasionally misfires and will stall at idle. So far.
Replace boots
Replaced Air Filter
Tested resistance in all coil packs all within value
CODE P0720 - OSS (replaced, knew it wasn't it but...)
Seafoamed truck (very anticlimatic)
Cleaned MAS
Headed to clean IAC next.
Still has the original plugs, any reason to change them yet?
Does the IAC have a function when engine is at temperature? Getting ready to bite the bullet on AE. Any first hand experience with AE? I STFF and couldn't find anything.
I'm about 90% convinced it's a bad COP, but I'm not about to buy 10 of them on I think. Also not inclined to switch each COP with a known good one. I'm hoping the AE will show misfires and pending codes.
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2004 F150, 4.6 V8. I'm wondering if my engine control module is going bad.
A few weeks ago I got into it in the morning, turned the ignition on, gauges responded as expected, warning lights on, etc. After starting the engine, all of the gauges peg to the left, and sort of "tremble", as if they were trying to keep going past the stop. After 5 seconds or so, they move up normally. This happens every time I start it now.
Since this weird gauge behavior started I have had to disconnect the battery to clean the negative terminal. After reconnecting it started experiencing idle problems. It idles smoothly, hitting on all 8, but it wavers. I found instructions in the owners manual for "relearning the idle and fuel trim strategy". It's been a over a week since doing this, and it still wavers and throws a P0506 error periodically, which I have been clearing. Twice while coasting the tachometer has jumped up to around 2000 rpm and the engine cut off, like maybe it thought the engine revved and closed the throttle to "slow it down".
My question is, have I just not waited long enough for it to re-learn to idle, or is it possible the engine control module is starting to fail?
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I have a 2002 Mazda Protege DX. I recently had a flat on the front passenger side. The tire was worn and the shop replaced both front tires, rotated them to the back and the ones that were in the rear to the front. So the new tires are on the rear and the the old tires are in the front. When we got the car back it started pulling pretty drastically to the right and on the highway has a tendency to dart (it was not like this when we brought it in). We took it back and they said that it was due to uneven ware on the front and bad bushings. Is this true? And, why would it be fine one evening and start to pull so drastically the next day?
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After a long trip from Houston to Dallas, my vehicle started to ride rough and eventually die on idle. It seems to idle fine, but then die after the first minute. I am getting code P306 and others all dealing with random misfires and misfires on ALL cylinders. The troubleshooting steps I have taken so far to no avail are:
(1) Replaced spark plugs with pre-gapped iridium
(2) Checked ignition coils
(2) Checked all vacuum hoses and air intake leaks
(3) Changed air filter(not a big deal)
(4) Removed and cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner thoroughly
(5) Checked the intake manifold for leaks and did not find any.
(6) Computer PCM checked for updates and issues at dealer
The dealer said it needed new fuel injectors, which seemed kind of fishy due to the following symptom:
The car runs GREAT at highway speeds, but it is unable to maintain an idle for an extended period of time and dies due to misfires. I hear a chugging in the engine sometimes.
Due to these symptoms, I self diagnosed this as a fuel regulator?
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