Dodge - Dakota - Radiators :: Truck Started Running Hot / Foam Coming Out Of The Overflow
Feb 20, 2011
we had a shop replace a thermostat in oct 10, last week our truck started running hot so we put in about 3 qt of 50/50 coolant. it returned to normal temp the next day we noticed some foam coming out of the overflow. when we opened the hood it looked like a brownish/red color and is a thick foam. When taking it back to the garage they cannot tell what it is. They have tried to flush it out and say they put in 3qt of fluid and only get out 1qt. It can be chunky at times. What it could be?
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I have an 87 longbed Dakota that I bought new. It's my work truck. Lately it has developed a chirping noise that I hear best with the rear slider window open. I think it is safe to say that it is not coming from under the hood. When I accelerate from a stop the chirping noise increases in pitch and frequency. The frequency does not change when the auto trans up shifts. There has been no noticeable out-of-the-ordinary vibrations, even at freeway speeds.
I have stopped driving on the freeway since the chirping became impossible to ignore. The chirping becomes less and less audible the faster I go as the pitch and frequency increases. When just starting from a dead stop, it sounds like a metallic scraping noise. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the chirping stops, even when still coasting, so it only occurs under load. It does not occur when the truck is stopped and the engine is revved.
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I have a 3.3L 1995 Dodge Caravan. I just noticed a white foam coming from the hose on top of the front valve cover. The hose leads to the air cleaner. The hose had clear water running out of it when I lifted it out (maybe half an ounce). Foamy stuff did not run out. The foamy stuff feels more slippery than water. The air filter and those little square debris pads were soaked. There is no water or foam that I can see on the dipstick. The inside of the oil filler cap had foam around it also . This just started. The car has many miles on it and has never had a head gasket replaced. The valve cover gaskets were just replaced and nothing unusual noted. The car runs fine when cold, but gets a little jerky when it heats up. The coolant level hasn't dropped (that I've noted) and the exhaust is clear (no white smoke.)
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My dodge spirit has 80,000 miles on it. i love this little car, however, yesterday for some reason while driving my radiator reservoir started to overflow. I didn't notice at the time, but when i got home there was water in the engine compartment and it was obvious that it had come from the reservoir. This morning I went out to drive the car and at first the engine shook a little but then started running smoothly, when I backed out i noticed a rather large cloud of white smoke (water in the engine) I immediately turned off the car. I have a feeling I will need to rebuild this car's engine. What I should expect to pay for this repair?
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I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey touring model. Recently I had it serviced at the Honda dealership. In addition to my requested front end alignment and oil and filter change, they talked me into a radiator flush, fuel inj. service, air filter replacements and battery service. I drove the car home after wards even filling up with gas before going home. This drive was about 55 miles. I never noticed any problems. The next day, I left for Montghomery AL towing a trailer with a motorcycle trike on it. We stopped for lunch and continued. The car suddenly started making a grinding noise from engine compartment and suddenly white smoke started coming out from the hood. I immediately pulled over and we got out of the car for fear of fire. This was the first time I had any indication of a problem.
After a short time, I opened the hood to see what was wrong and noticed that the radiator cap was sitting upside down next to opening. I had the vehicle towed to Chattanooga where I was told there was serious damage to the engine. I had them repair it (they were an AAA approved towing and repair shop). I also took pictures of the engine compartment. I went back to the dealership and asked to be reembursed for my expenses and the cost of repairs and the owner refused. He said he didn't believe they left the cap off and since he started out in the service department he didn't believe the car could even go that far without overheating. My question is: Is it possible for a 2007 Honda Odyssey to travel approximately 220 miles over two days before overheating and wrecking the engine if the radiator cap was left off and/or if no fluid was even added and the radiator cap was left off?
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so my 96 dodge dakota has been acting up a lot lately. I can barely drive in town let alone on the highway. when I drive, keep in mind its random most of the time, my truck will start jumping and then lose power. when I try to power thru it my truck will backfire and then shut off. once I try to start again it floods the engine. most of the time it will do this going up a hill or when it has to get above 3000 rpm. I don't know what's causing it. I replaced the throttle body fuel injection sensor and tranny filter but I figure its a fuel problem.
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I have an '88 Dakota, 230K miles, with the following problem:For the last month or so, the truck has been hard to start--had to crank once, wait 10 seconds or so, then crank again. Gradually, this problem increased to the point where it would stumble at WOT, then even at 3/4 throttle or so.Thinking it was the fuel pump, I replaced it, along with the filter.
Problem remains; in fact, it seems even worse, to the point where the truck only idles (can't put any load on it, or it stumbles). So, at this point I suspect the fuel pressure regulator. However, I don't want to buy it unnecessarily. Given that a F.P.R. is designed to send a part of the pump output back, would pinching off part/all of the return line be a valid diagnostic test?Anything else that comes to mind?
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I have a 98 Dodge Dakota with 5.2 V8. On the way home today all my gauges and warning lights started going on and off and then gauges stopped working all together and all the warning lights stayed on. The engine was running fine and after pulling over and checking things out, I made the last mile or so home OK. Checked fuses and battery connection and everything looked Ok. Relay or Computer?
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i have a dodge Dakota and there is water that leaks into the front right passenger side when I run the AC...
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Yesterday my truck would stay on if I had the gas on, or if I put it in gear and drove but when it was in neutral it would shut off. And then after driving it for a few minutes it completely shut down. It is a manual transmission.
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At first it wouldnt start without me burying the throttle, and wouldnt stay running if i took my foot off the gas, i replaced the throttle position sensor and it starts with no issue, but now if i give it any gas, it shuts of, unless i let off the gas very slowly, what do i do?
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The truck will go into reverse, but will not go into drive or any of the other gears. When shifted into one of those gears, it just idles as though in neutral. This started as I was driving down the highway at approximate 70mph. The speedometer jumped up then fell to zero as the car slowed to a stop. There was no noise except the sound of rapid fuel intake and then it went to idling. I have been told it may be a speed sensor, but I was wondering if there was anyway to confirm that before I have the truck towed down to a mechanic and find out its more than I want to pay to fix it.
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I have a 2000 Dakota 5.9 truck that has all of a sudden started to idle rough, loses power over 3000rpm or any kind of reasonable acceleration , with a big sucking sound from the throttle body ( no leaks), seems like it is not getting fuel. Someone mentioned it maybe the "MAP" sensor.
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My 1993 Dodge Dakota quits running at any time, from right after start-up to going down the road. It wont start running again until the check engine light comes on when the ignition is turned on. I can sit there from a few seconds to five minutes before the check engine light comes on. I have cycled the key three times to check for a code, but there are none. I have checked much of the wiring to the relays and some to the PCM, but have found nothing wrong. This truck did the same thing with the two previous owners, and had the PCM replaced, to no avail.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2l MPFI and auto trans that has me and many other mechanics stumped. Recently it stalled on me when I pulled it into the driveway, and ever since it has had this problem.
When I start it up in the morning and it's cold, the problem isn't as bad, but as it warms up it gets worse. It sounds like it's running rough, but its firing on all cylinders. I've verifies this by pulling the plug wires and also the fuel injector wires, and each one will bog the engine down a bit. Also, when I'm cruising or parked, if I hold the throttle at 1000 rpm or less, it loads up and will stall when I let off the throttle. I have to bump the throttle to about 1500 rpm or so when pulling up to a light so that it won't stall on me. When I hold the throttle and it loads up, I can read the o2 sensor with a scanner and it shows 0.8 or 0.9v, so I know it's running rich. If I let off, the sensor reads normal. It's not super rich, but enough that it causes this problem.
Things I've tried so far:
- Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
- New coil (old one had cracks in the case)
- Checked distributor for play in the shaft, timing chain for looseness, and cam sensor for damage
- Has a new PCM, swapped back to old one and the problem still exists
- Checked fuel pressure with and without regulator, is within specs cold or warmed up, no odd drops in pressure
- Checked all sensors with scanner to verify they read within specs
- Replaced all sensors with known good used AND new and none made any difference (o2 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS, air intake temperature, idle air control, coolant temp sensor)Plugs are brown/tan colored, none are blatantly rich
- Replaced the battery, alternator, and checked all grounds
- Checked the EGR system for correct operation
- Checked for vacuum leaks and broken wires, found none
The truck also has no catalytic converter and only has 1 pre-cat o2 sensor. I also am not getting any codes.
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I have a 2000 dakota in the morning after the first start, moving foward the truck rocks and feels like trans. slipping. After 5 mins, just fine. Change the Trans. Ffilter?
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While driving home after replacing a dead battery, clearly I didn't tighten the negative cable enough as it popped off while I was driving (I only found this out after I got home though). But even after popping off, the truck kept going, albeit with the battery gauge maxed out and the dashboard/headlights flickering. I turned off what I could (it was night, so I needed headlights!), but it still accelerated well, and there were no noticeable performance issues at all. When I got home, I tightened the cable, started it up again just fine, ran it for a minute, then turned it off and restarted it fine again with no problems.
My concern is: am I looking at serious electrical issues long term, or should I be ok? I'm just trying to make sure that driving without a negative cable for less than a mile doesn't fry certain parts of the car, and end up causing big issues down the road. (Truck is a 2000 dodge dakota slt)
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I have an 04 gti 1.8t and last night it started over heating. I pulled over and checked the coolant and the oil but everything looked good. I let it cool down and drove it home. When I popped the hood there was a little steam coming from the coolant overflow tank but I saw no leaking. I decided to vent the pressure off the system and then I got a little drip on the passenger side close to where the inter cooler is. I can't pinpoint the leak though.
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I have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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Alright, so my battery is fully charged and there's water in it. When I turn they key, there is a rapid mechanical clicking clearly coming from the starter area, but no attempt to turn over. Stuck solenoid? Bad starter relay? Bad starter? Missing teeth on the flywheel? Seized engine? The Mayan calendar apocalypse?
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My 06 Dodge Dakota, has a terrible racket coming from the front end when you hit a rough place in the roads especially the left side, seems worse when the wheels are cut, nothing is obviously loose ,it has 88K miles on it.
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