My tensioner pulley is already shaking but when the ac clutch is engaged the tensioner starts to shake even more and it starts to make a clunking noise extremely loud and fast. I also noticed that the crank pulley is shaking quite a bit too so I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
View 4 RepliesMy 04 Dakota 4x4 makes a clunking noise when
1) in 4-wheel drive going forward while turning either direction (but not while going straight) and
2) in 4-wheel drive in reverse (straight or turning). It does not do it in 2-wheel drive under any circumstances.
I suspect the front drive shaft U-joints since it only happens in 4-wheel drive. Rear drive shaft U-joints or front CV joints would be a possibility but I would think they would cause a noise in both 2 and 4-wheel drive and in either direction equally.
I have a 95 Dodge Dakota SLT with a manual transmission. When I press the clutch, it loudly squeals. It makes no noise when my foot is off the clutch either in gear or neutral. I made sure the master cylinder was full of fluid. I'm thinking it's the throw out bearing.
I'm out of town, and have to drive 8 hours to get home. Can I get it home, or should I have it fixed ASAP?
I've only owned my neon for 3 weeks. I have a loud knocking/clunking noise and it feels like the rear is trying to freeze up in reverse it knocks/clunks louder when i brake in reverse. Sometimes it will knock/clunk and feel like something is trying freeze up in normal forward driving (maybe one of twice every few days) but it happens every single time i reverse.
We have already replaced the rear struts as we thought this was the problem.
I'm getting frustrated I need a good car to drive my child to school and I afraid to drive this one but I don't have much of a choice. It has had a lot of recent work by the previous owner (my brother-in-law) including a new clutch, exhaust, tie rods, new brakes all around and brand new tires so i'd like to fix it because it's in great shape and runs well for it age.
Another piece of information that may be relevant is the car sat for roughly a year and half with no use but was regularly started although I don't think they moved it. I'm wondering if it could have something to do with the brakes?
The problem starting roughly 3 days after I bought the car I don't drive much but would like to fix this so we can take it on longer trips as it's the only vehicle we own that fits everyone in it. Our secondary is a 2 seater Toyota pickup for my husband to commute to work in and there's 3 of us so the car being in the condition it's in doesn't work for us.
I have a 2011 Dodge Challenger SE/Rallye Redline with 76k miles
All of a sudden while I was out shopping, it started creaking and clunking somewhat loudly on the front driver's side when coming to a stop. I could feel a weird subtle clunk in the brake pedal as the sound happened. There was a more gentle clunk in the gas pedal as I took off from a full stop. As I made my way home, the sound progressively got louder and louder. When I was close to home, the sound got so horrible to the point that it began clunking on every other bump and began creaking and clunking VERY LOUDLY while steering and turning.
The last work I had done was replacing my front tires, front rotors, brake pads and drivers side calipers in December. At first I thought it was a caliper issue, but as the sound got worse and seemed to be more underneath the front end more than the wheel area, I sort of ruled it out. What could it possibly be?
I noticed a humming like noise when my transmission is engaged. I looked under the truck and saw a wet spot on the transmission(leaking)It is a manual transmission 5 speed Dodge Dakota 2001.
View 2 RepliesI have an 87 Dakota with a two-piece driveshaft, bought it new. A couple months ago at 140,000 miles there came a chirping noise from the rear at acceleration from a stop. I changed the u-joints with new Moogs and had a new center support bearing pressed on at a driveline shop. Reinstall driveshaft same as it came out. The u-joint at the diff was shot, the other two not far behind. The chirping vanished as expected, but was replaced with a slight vibration felt in the seat starting at 50-55 mph. I dropped the truck off at the driveline shop to get the driveshaft balanced. They put it on the balancer and called to say they couldn't balance it, the indicator kept jumping around and wouldn't stabilize. I asked them to reinstall it and came to pick get the truck. The guy who worked on it said that this was usually a u-joint problem. I asked what brand they used and pulled he out a Neapco u-joint box and said they use them exclusively and have never had any problems. I ordered Neapcos from RockAuto. Will replace the Moogs and see what happens. After they reinstalled the shaft I drove in the freeway and it acted exactly the same.
I was very careful when pressing out the old joints not to stress any of the yokes, applying pressure to the u-joint members at right angles to the cap being pressed out and not to the cap 180 degrees opposite. When installing the new joints, after inserting the clips (interior) I pressed all clips snug against the yoke. The joints all moved freely in all directions. Again, the shaft was replaced exactly as it came out.
I have this whistling noise coming from the front area of my truck (97 dodge dakota) 4X4. The noise sounds like air at high pitch (just my opinion and friends), happens around 30 to 40 mph when you hear the whistling noise. I've taped all holes and gaps that might be causing the sound but no avail. I've had a friend look at it, that's a fire truck mechanic and no luck and he said it didn't sound like wheel bearing problem.
View 1 RepliesI bought this truck about 8 months ago, and replaced the EVAC system right off. Now, it's doing this thing where, when driving uphill, it chugs and makes a loud metal clunking sound. Also, as I slow, it tries to accelerate on its own (with my foot on the brake), and if I sit for too long at a stop (idling), it dies. Starts right up again, but it sucks having to start my truck on the freeway in slow/stopped conditions. Is it my fuel pump or my transmission?
View 1 RepliesI drive a 1997 dodge Dakota 5.2l 5 speed manual 4wd and recently it started making a really aggressive banging or popping noise while I was driving, it also made the truck bounce up and down a little bit and I could feel the shifter move up and down while this was happening. So I went underneath and discovered my transmission mount was out so I changed that and as well I changed a few u joints. One thing i noticed while I was replacing u joints was that when I had the front drive shaft off the whole problem was reduced to just a minor popping noise but once I slapped back on the front drive shaft it all came back. Another problem that is occurring because all of this is that when I tried to use the 4wd in 4 hi it just kicked it out of 4hi but in 4 lo it would stay in but all the problems were still there. The only time it doesn't do anything is when I am already rolling and I put the 4wd selector in neutral to disengage the drive shafts.
I have asked a few different people their opinions and I get different answers, someone thought it could be something to do with the steering shaft or intermediate steering shaft but I think that is not the correct diagnostic. Another one of my buddies suggested that it might be a stretched chain or gear in the transfer case that is causing it.
I have an 87 longbed Dakota that I bought new. It's my work truck. Lately it has developed a chirping noise that I hear best with the rear slider window open. I think it is safe to say that it is not coming from under the hood. When I accelerate from a stop the chirping noise increases in pitch and frequency. The frequency does not change when the auto trans up shifts. There has been no noticeable out-of-the-ordinary vibrations, even at freeway speeds.
I have stopped driving on the freeway since the chirping became impossible to ignore. The chirping becomes less and less audible the faster I go as the pitch and frequency increases. When just starting from a dead stop, it sounds like a metallic scraping noise. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the chirping stops, even when still coasting, so it only occurs under load. It does not occur when the truck is stopped and the engine is revved.
My 06 Dodge Dakota, has a terrible racket coming from the front end when you hit a rough place in the roads especially the left side, seems worse when the wheels are cut, nothing is obviously loose ,it has 88K miles on it.
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 dakota. The truck wont turn over, headlights/doom lights nothing in side works. But when i open the door the glove boxes starts making a clicking noise ? it happened once before and once i pushed it down a little drive way everything turned back on ? What could cause this problem ?
View 3 RepliesOh where do I start. 2003 Santa Fe, V6 Auto, FWD.
The engine has been making a loud ticking noise lately, starting right after an oil change it seemed. It actually sounded a lot like a stuck lifter, so I had an engine flush done, but this did not remedy the problem. Popping the hood one day it was particularly noisy, I noticed that it sounded like it was coming from the serpentine belt tensioner (or there abouts).
Anyway, tonight, *something* finally gave. All of a sudden I heard a squealing noise, then smelled burning rubber, and my battery light came on, and I lost my power steering. I figured that the tensioner finally gave out.
I turned off the vehicle to see what I could see. A bit of melted S-belt was it. I restarted it, and the belt was turning fine again, but while it was idling, I noticed that the crank pulley was shifting in and out now and then. When it moved inward, the S-belt shifted in as well, and started to rub on the timing cover, wearing a hole right through it! Have a look at the attached photo, showing the grove worn right through.
So I'm assuming that my tensioner was fine, and it was my crank pulley all a long. I'm figuring that 3 thing will need replacing:
1. Crank Pulley (the source of the problem)
2. Serpentine Belt (since it's probably half melted)
3. Timing Cover (can't see that water getting in there would be good)
Does this sound accurate?
I have a 2006 Camry 2.4l and I'm hearing a loud noise coming from the idler pulley on cold startups when I put it in gear. I don't hear it when it's in park. The noise gets worse if you turn the a/c on. I have replaced the belt, idler pulley and top motor mount. I took the belt off and cranked it when cold and there was no noise even in gear. I can see the idler pulley moving and can confirm that's the noise but what it causing the belt to make it do that? Could I have bought a defective idler pulley?
View 3 RepliesIf I am moving in reverse and tap the brake I hear a clunk from the rear of the car. If I continue in reverse and then again apply the brake then no clunk. If I drive forward and stop, no clunk. If I then shift into reverse again and apply brake I get the clunk again. Had the struts/shocks replaced but no change.
View 5 RepliesMy son owns a 2008 Nissan Altima with about 110,000 miles. The engine has a ticking noise that is louder and faster when the car accelerates. It is worse when the car is cold. Once it warms up, the noise will get less and even goes away. Valves? Doesn't seem to be tire related and we recently had the belts checked and replaced when needed.
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 2005 Dodge Dakota SLT with 50k on it. The truck is in great condition inside and out. I have noticed depending on certain days, different weather conditions that it will make a squeaky noise when going over the bumpy roads. First thing that came to my mind was the sway bar end links. I purchased them from NAPA and installed them. Still the truck is making this noise. What it can be? Almost sounds like it is in the rear of the truck but hard to actually pin point the location. I have tried with all windows down I cannot tell.
Sound is exactly like this video: [URL] ....
When driving, getting up to about 30 mph, a loud clunking noise and feeling seem to come from under the center armrest. I have looked underneath to see if something came loose or was missing, but nothing looks out of place. Increase in speed makes it get worse.
2004 Touareg V6 67k Miles
We're having problem with our Prius where car suddenly started to make weird clunking noise from the engine (28k miles, 2011 Prius). Car sounds unsafe to drive around, so I left it parked in the drive way. I did check engine oil level and it was at F level.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata that is making a loud clunking noise when I first put the car in gear. I start the car, put my foot on the brake, put the car in R and I hear a creeeeaakkk, clunk! noise coming from the front, passenger side of the car. I back up out of the driveway/parking spot, put the car in D and get a slight clunk! noise out of the same area again.
At first, I thought this was maybe a ball joint or a tie rod failure, but a friend of mine and I took the front wheels off of the car this past weekend and I gotta say, everything was found to be in solid shape. Nothing loose, bushings are in good shape, boots are in fantastic shape, no loose wheels that can be moved in ways they shouldn't move. After getting the noises and clunks to happen again, my buddy's opinion is that it's my transmission having a tough go of it and that I should take it to a transmission shop. Is it a transmission thing?
2006 Sonata, 6 Cylinders, 141,000 miles (227,000 km)
Never did anything with the transmission fluid since I've owned the car. I bought it in 2010 when it had 80,000 miles (129,000 km) on it.