When my gas light comes on during the day my horn blows every couple minutes at night time the headlights go from high-beam to low-beam every couple minutes. Also, my check engine light is on more than it is off
View 4 RepliesMy car is fully stock, with all options available to me (cold weather package not available here). The low-beam triple-LED headlights are aimed way too low compared to all my previous cars, and where they should be. BUT high-beam is aimed properly. So if I adjust the low-beams up, my high-beams might end up lighting up the trees, not the road.
If adjust the headlights up on a fully stock car (not lowered at the front)? Are the high beams still lighting up the road fine? And if you can be specific as the number of turns on the screwdriver, it'd be good too to have an initial adjustment reference.
Every time that I hit the brakes, the headlights flash and the horn blows for about 30 seconds. I am guessing that it has something to do with the factory alarm? I do not have a key pad. It is a 1997 F-150.
View 3 RepliesThe parking lights come on, the turn signal lights work, the interior lights and high beams work. Could it just be a fuse or two? Dodge Dakota 4WD 2002 ...
View 3 RepliesI bought this truck new. A few years ago while driving to work my headlights began to flicker. The problem became intermittent and didn't seem to affect my fog or high beam lights, just low beam. That night I tried to find the loose connection with no luck. The truck had 35000 on it then. To play it safe I went ahead and replaced the light switch. The next day the problem went away but came back about a year later and again the lights would flicker then stay on for a while and start again. The problem would disappear for a day or two and start again. I put this truck into two Dodge dealerships and they couldn't find anything. The problem went away for about three weeks and came back. This time I put the truck into a different non-Dodge repair place and after three days they couldn't find anything after pulling various connections apart but said the likely cause is probably one of two electronic parts.
One was about $300 and the other was just over $500 and they were nonrefundable because they were electronics. I went ahead and went the cheap way. After a little more then a year I noticed my headlights went out for about two seconds and came back on. It didn't do it anymore that night. Then about a week ago I got about a mile from my house going to work my headlights started flashing as if they were sending "morse code" in 5-10 second bursts. Again, hi beam and white fog lights are unaffected. I've since parked it. I've looked to see if there were any service bulletins, recalls, etc and found nothing. I'm finding it really hard to believe that my truck is the only one doing this.
vehicle 1997 dakota engine 3.9L w/autotrans.
The vehicle exhibits an intermittent high idle. I have replaced the usual IAC stepper motor and checked the tps for proper function, also completely cleaned, inspected and relubed the throttle body and linkage.
According to my Inova 3140, there are no codes and the temperature sensors and tps percentage are reading correctly. Also the battery and charging system are functioning correctly.
I do not have bi directional capability or the ability to monitor any of the pid'sOne other thing is that she also has a slight rough idle, but that could be the 200,000 miles.
I have a '99 Dakota 4 cylinder. Starts fine but as it warms up or if you gas it the idle stays high. The more you run it the higher it goes. Have replaced MAP senser, throttle position and air bypass with no effect.( map and high tps voltage only codes shown ) Vacuum problem?
View 3 RepliesI have this whistling noise coming from the front area of my truck (97 dodge dakota) 4X4. The noise sounds like air at high pitch (just my opinion and friends), happens around 30 to 40 mph when you hear the whistling noise. I've taped all holes and gaps that might be causing the sound but no avail. I've had a friend look at it, that's a fire truck mechanic and no luck and he said it didn't sound like wheel bearing problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 dodge Dakota with 112K miles. At 105K I had the front brake rotors and pads replaced. The rear brakes were fine. There was a problem with one of the rotors and I returned a week or two later and one, which was warped, was replaced. Ever since that second visit I have had an intermittent vibration from the vehicle. When I brake the whole truck vibrates. And by vibrating, I mean some pretty heavy shaking. It is not the steering wheel vibrating. I took this back to the mechanic where they were unable to find any issues with the brakes. Also, we could not (of course) re-create the issue while it was in the shop. I have not been able to find the pattern. It happens when I am braking at high speeds, but not every time. It also happens at lower speed, but again, not every time.
View 2 RepliesLast week I smelled something burning when I arrived home. I looked around the car and did not see any smoke. I noticed the other night that I had no headlights (low or hi beam) The fog light work fine. No fuses are out.
View 2 Replies08 accent passenger headlight was noticed to not be operating while in low beam. Switched to high beam- it works, but still no low beam.
First instinct was replace the bulb. Low beam works but now.. high beam doesn't?? Bulbs are fine, brand new out of the box and driver's side works like a charm. Bright as heck... passenger's side isn't quite as bright If that's any relation to the problem.
Checked the fuses, they're all good. Made sure bulb was placed in secure. Filament didn't get bounced around either. Was poking around online and seems it could be the relay. Manual doesn't seem to list a relay for the headlights or am I not reading it right?
This is an ongoing problem that has lasted for several weeks now -- I’m completely flummoxed and at a loss. It goes something like this:
My truck (2000 Dodge Dakota, 2.5L, 5-speed) has developed -- for lack of a better term -- a high-pitched whining squeal, which only occurs after I put it in gear and actually start moving (if I leave it idling in neutral, when starting it after letting it sit overnight, the sound usually does not appear at all). After about three or four minutes of driving time, the sound will show up, but there’s an odd twist: the sound is most apparent, and really loud, when the truck is at idle, such as when at a stop sign or traffic signal; when I put it in gear and take off, the noise will drop in pitch and, depending on how hard I’m pressing on the accelerator, it sometimes disappears altogether.
When I take off, every time I shift gears the sound returns -- only for as long as I step on the clutch and back off the gas, and when I step on the accelerator again the noise falls in pitch and vanishes. It does this off-and-on thing through all the gears, and after reaching the desired road speed (and I’ve reduced pressure on the gas pedal) the sound returns and is constant. Also, if I shut the truck off and wait just a few minutes, and then fire it back up, the sound will be gone, but will return after a short while, exactly as related above. It’s worth noting that, during all this irritating misadventure, the engine has run exactly as it always has -- there’s been no discernible impact on performance.
Now, some considerations. The noise is louder and more strident when the ambient temperature is lower, such as in the morning. Later in the day, when the temperature rises, the sound becomes erratic and somewhat unpredictable, and is much lower in volume, and it will even stop abruptly and then reappear later.
Many people have suggested that it could be the belt or a pulley, maybe. I replaced both tensioners and even installed a new, shorter belt to bypass the A/C compressor (to eliminate it as the possible culprit), but the noise remains. I was skeptical of all that because -- and please correct me if I’m wrong -- a shot pulley making such a horrible racket should get louder as engine speed increases, not drop in pitch and disappear. In fact, the noise seems to have no relation to engine RPM; if anything, it seems tied somehow to intake manifold pressure (the sound vanishes when the truck is accelerating, which is when intake manifold pressure goes down, or so is my understanding), or throttle position, or something else entirely. The vacuum system? The noise seems mechanical to me, not like escaping air (or, well, vacuum) . . . but what do I know?
Just discovered that both high beams are not working. Regular lights ok. When switch to high beam both go off. I know some bulbs have two filaments, is this the case for this car? Are the bulbs burnt out or something else is wrong?
This is a 2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited.
I added plow lights to my truck and something quit when I had the high beams all on at once. All 4 shut off. Low beams still working. What I fried or where to check? Its a 99 F250 superduty.
View 14 RepliesSo I recently bought a 1997 7.3l F250. It is in fairly good condition, but it has some problems with the lights working. The turn signals and hazards all work, as do the tail lights and headlights. However, when I hit the high beam switch, the headlights cut off entirely. Also, the brake lights do not work at all. Ive checked the bulbs and since they all work Im not sure what the issue is.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 ranger four letre 5sp, dubbed Beula. I figured there'd be a few gremlins and there was and is, which I know to be more common than not in older trucks. The top priority is figuring out why when I push the lever for the high beams forward, the headlights cut out completely, whether in gear or not, and I don't know where to begin troubleshooting. I've surfed around the forums looking for answers and really only found conjecture.
View 14 RepliesSo, my oil light comes on after startup like usual then shuts off. Anywhere from 2-5 minutes of the vehicle running light comes back on and does not shut off unless I restart the vehicle. Have changed oil pressure switch and oil pressure is reading in the normal range..
05 dakota with 175000 kilometres
My ABS light came on and my parking brake light as wellAlso my Speedometer Quit working all at the same time what happened?????I drive a 1998 Dodge Dakota 5.2L 4x4 5speed manual
View 3 RepliesThe "Service 4 WD" indicator light came on and stayed on for about 5 miles this morning. I rarely use the 4WD function usually just using it on a dirt road to make sure it gets used. Would this indicate the need for a fluid change or is something more sinister afoot?
View 1 RepliesI was asked to look at this Dakota because the Brake warning light and the ABS lights come on.
I get no stored codes with my code reader, and upon test driving it I found that the lights both go off when you shut off the truck, but each time you start up and drive off....those two lights will come on the first time you hit about 30mph and then stay on until you shut off the truck again. Restart and the lights are off until you drive off and hit about 30mph again.
Backing out of the shop, stopping, turning around, down the driveway 50yds and stopping at the road....the lights stay off, even though I just used the brakes three times at least. Get on the road and hit 30mph and they go on.
The two fuses, one in the fuse block by the drivers door and the other (ABS) fuse in the Power distribution box test good.Both brake lights work at the rear as does the high mount brake light. Fluid is at the full mark.
I pulled all four wheels and drums on the back and inspected everything and everything looks good and the E brake cables are intact and working as they should. Brakes were replaced (not by me) and have a little wear, but plenty of material left. No leaks of any lines, calipers, or cylinders. Front rotors are not scored from a sticky caliper, they do have a little minor rusting but because it has been idle for a few months.
I have the same year and drive train in my Dakota. Their truck has about the same stopping power as mine, but I did notice that I did not feel the surging in the ABS as I feel in my truck. I tested this by traveling at about 40mph with the passenger wheels in the gravel and drivers wheels on the pavement and applied the brakes hard. In my truck I felt the surging, but not in theirs. Note that my truck has a tall cap and always carries an extra 800 pounds of gear in the back.Maybe the heavier weight makes my ABS kick in quicker, but I would think weight wouldn't matter.....one wheel is slipping...period.
On empty a week ago, filled 1/2 a tank, drove home no issue. Didn't drive truck for a week. Turned it on this morning (didn't warm it up) about 10 minutes into the drive anytime you tried to accelerate, the truck would buck. If you were idling or just had your foot slightly on the pedal driving at the same speed it was fine, it only bucked when I really pushed on the pedal to accelerate. The check engine light started flashing as well.
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