Dodge - Dakota :: 2007 Vibration When Braking At High Speeds
Oct 26, 2013
I have a 2007 dodge Dakota with 112K miles. At 105K I had the front brake rotors and pads replaced. The rear brakes were fine. There was a problem with one of the rotors and I returned a week or two later and one, which was warped, was replaced. Ever since that second visit I have had an intermittent vibration from the vehicle. When I brake the whole truck vibrates. And by vibrating, I mean some pretty heavy shaking. It is not the steering wheel vibrating. I took this back to the mechanic where they were unable to find any issues with the brakes. Also, we could not (of course) re-create the issue while it was in the shop. I have not been able to find the pattern. It happens when I am braking at high speeds, but not every time. It also happens at lower speed, but again, not every time.
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My wife has an Acura, and when braking at higher speeds, she is getting a really bad "vibration". I am assuming the rotors are warped. We had both axles (rotors/pads) done last year (about 40k ago) at Midas. After they did them, we had to take the car back about 3 times for squeaky pads, and I swear a slight vibration, but they didn't fix them. Anyway, even though they offer "lifetime pads," I refuse to go back there.
So, her pads now started squeaking again. We were dealing with the warped rotors until we had some extra money and time to take it in. At this point, I am wondering where I should take it. I have no clue if the pads are good, and I'm guessing the rotors just need to be turned since they were just put on last brake job.
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I was wondering if 1979 Dodge Vans had regular 727 transmissions, or 727 with lock ups? I was told that Chrysler switched to the lock-ups in mid year. How to confirm this? I was also told that if you use a trans on a 318 that had a lock up it would cause a vibration in the drive train at high speeds, and might damage seals in the engine and trans.
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I have a 2009 Chevy Malibu that gives through rotors every 6 months. I have replaced them 3 times now in 102,000 miles and had them turned multiple times. What happens is about 6,000 miles after I put new rotors on they warp and I get a violent vibration when braking at high speeds. I have been to 3 different dealerships and none of them can figure out why they continue to warp.
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX (4 cyl) with 102k miles. I bought it brand new and kept it completely in shape with regular service. For the past few months I start getting front end vibration at braking, mostly when slowing from high speeds and without any repair this vibration has now became common at all speed.... my diagnosis - I need to replace to turn disk/rotors....
While I have not remedy the rotor issue yet, I started getting this new vibration at 60 to 80 mph.... Below and above this range of speed i have no vibrations - the car will drive fine. This type of vibration in my experience for front wheel drives is mostly due to balancing or bad tires. so i took the easy way ..... and as i already needed tires well i dished out the dough and replaced all four with Michelin Primacy hoping that it will resolve the speed related vibration.... Well it did not?
I continue to drive as-is without addressing the real problem - coz I'm not sure what is causing the vibration.... now new additional vibration started on acceleration; any time I hit the gas pedal (normal acceleration or kick-down) I get vibration very similar to when a stick shift's gearbox required replacement/repair of the worn out pressure plate's (fingers/springs gets bent or weak) or the thrust bearing needs replacements/repair/grease packing. I'm from the old school stickshift transmission, my knowledge in automatic is very little - I have repaired Acura's automatic transmission before but I don't think repairing once will make me an expert in automatic.
So to summarize my issues or current state:
Issue# 1 front end vibration on braking
Issue# 2 front end vibration 60 to 80 mph speed only
Issue# 3 front end vibration on acceleration at all speed
The list above is in sequential order as I have experienced.
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I replaced my tires yesterday with Bridgestone Turanza ER33 (245/45/19).
After replacing the tires, there is is an extreme vibration in the front end of the car when braking at highway speeds (60+ mph). Braking at sub 50mph speeds is completely normal. No lights, no vibration while driving. What could be the reason?
Also while removing the lug nut locks, the locks key broke apart (the black piece came out of the key). After like 45mins of trying, finally we got the locks out. I threw them away.
I searched online for regular lug nuts, but couldn't find any beside ebay. The local dealer says I need to wait for 3 weeks to get them from Japan! Where can I get a set of 4 regular lug nuts online?
I'm now running on 4 lug nuts on each wheel. Could this cause a problem? Could the vibration be caused by not having a 5th lug nut in place?
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My brake pedal goes almost to the floor when I'm braking.I replaced the rotors, pads, shoes, power booster and the master cylinder 3 times.Had it bled twice and I still have a soft pedal, but now it firms up a bit as I pump the brakes.
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I have a 2002 V6 Dodge Dakota that just recently lost pretty much all power. It will not go above 20 mph and has a hard time going up any hills. I was driving on the interstate and initially was having a hard time reaching 65 mph. The truck would roar and then shift and then lose power and shift down a gear. Eventually it lost almost all power and is now barely drive-able. It makes a sound like an ATV at low speeds, kind of a deep humming sound. When I punch the gas in neutral in makes the same sound. I have had problems with it stalling before and am at a complete loss as to the cause.
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vehicle 1997 dakota engine 3.9L w/autotrans.
The vehicle exhibits an intermittent high idle. I have replaced the usual IAC stepper motor and checked the tps for proper function, also completely cleaned, inspected and relubed the throttle body and linkage.
According to my Inova 3140, there are no codes and the temperature sensors and tps percentage are reading correctly. Also the battery and charging system are functioning correctly.
I do not have bi directional capability or the ability to monitor any of the pid'sOne other thing is that she also has a slight rough idle, but that could be the 200,000 miles.
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I have a '99 Dakota 4 cylinder. Starts fine but as it warms up or if you gas it the idle stays high. The more you run it the higher it goes. Have replaced MAP senser, throttle position and air bypass with no effect.( map and high tps voltage only codes shown ) Vacuum problem?
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I have this whistling noise coming from the front area of my truck (97 dodge dakota) 4X4. The noise sounds like air at high pitch (just my opinion and friends), happens around 30 to 40 mph when you hear the whistling noise. I've taped all holes and gaps that might be causing the sound but no avail. I've had a friend look at it, that's a fire truck mechanic and no luck and he said it didn't sound like wheel bearing problem.
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When my gas light comes on during the day my horn blows every couple minutes at night time the headlights go from high-beam to low-beam every couple minutes. Also, my check engine light is on more than it is off
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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This is an ongoing problem that has lasted for several weeks now -- I’m completely flummoxed and at a loss. It goes something like this:
My truck (2000 Dodge Dakota, 2.5L, 5-speed) has developed -- for lack of a better term -- a high-pitched whining squeal, which only occurs after I put it in gear and actually start moving (if I leave it idling in neutral, when starting it after letting it sit overnight, the sound usually does not appear at all). After about three or four minutes of driving time, the sound will show up, but there’s an odd twist: the sound is most apparent, and really loud, when the truck is at idle, such as when at a stop sign or traffic signal; when I put it in gear and take off, the noise will drop in pitch and, depending on how hard I’m pressing on the accelerator, it sometimes disappears altogether.
When I take off, every time I shift gears the sound returns -- only for as long as I step on the clutch and back off the gas, and when I step on the accelerator again the noise falls in pitch and vanishes. It does this off-and-on thing through all the gears, and after reaching the desired road speed (and I’ve reduced pressure on the gas pedal) the sound returns and is constant. Also, if I shut the truck off and wait just a few minutes, and then fire it back up, the sound will be gone, but will return after a short while, exactly as related above. It’s worth noting that, during all this irritating misadventure, the engine has run exactly as it always has -- there’s been no discernible impact on performance.
Now, some considerations. The noise is louder and more strident when the ambient temperature is lower, such as in the morning. Later in the day, when the temperature rises, the sound becomes erratic and somewhat unpredictable, and is much lower in volume, and it will even stop abruptly and then reappear later.
Many people have suggested that it could be the belt or a pulley, maybe. I replaced both tensioners and even installed a new, shorter belt to bypass the A/C compressor (to eliminate it as the possible culprit), but the noise remains. I was skeptical of all that because -- and please correct me if I’m wrong -- a shot pulley making such a horrible racket should get louder as engine speed increases, not drop in pitch and disappear. In fact, the noise seems to have no relation to engine RPM; if anything, it seems tied somehow to intake manifold pressure (the sound vanishes when the truck is accelerating, which is when intake manifold pressure goes down, or so is my understanding), or throttle position, or something else entirely. The vacuum system? The noise seems mechanical to me, not like escaping air (or, well, vacuum) . . . but what do I know?
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My 2001 Dodge Ram (1500) is making weird noises... they occur at lower speeds, not necessarily when braking or turning. My AC is not working as well... not sure if this has anything to do with the noises... or if there is something else going on (brakes, etc.)
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Noticing excessive vibration when braking after 50-60 mph speeds.
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I recently purchased the rims from another member here on Club Lexus.
Ever since installation, I have been experiencing a vibration at highway speeds and while braking. The wheels are correctly balanced.
My technician has told me that I need to buy a hub ring/spacer (not too sure what that is) but nonetheless, a grommet of such that fits between the backside of the rim and the frontside of the hub. I'm not too sure where to begin from there or what to even look for.
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2003 7.3 Excursion, 130k, stock suspension with newer bushings, etc.
Vibration when braking at higher speeds - not felt as pulses through brake pedal or shimmy through steering wheel - rather, a "body" vibration. Stops as soon as the TC unlocks. Being a diesel I can't tap the brake to allow it to unlock like on the gasser 4R100's - its locked until it shifts down into 3rd. Turning off OD puts it into 3rd but locks TC (no way to "single out" TC). Only felt when braking in OD (though I haven't tried running up to highway speeds with OD off/trans in 3rd) - braking is completely smooth at all other times/gears/speeds and at all braking force (light, mod, heavy).
Front and rear pads are good with even wear and sufficient material, lugs evenly torqued, tires good/balanced, no sign of a stuck caliper or rotor warping, MM manual hubs unlocked. No driveshaft carrier on the Ex's, just a regular two joint shaft with recent Neapco Gold u-joints, no slip yoke play. Trans filter replaced 4k miles ago, 6 +/- qts DexIII/Merc exchanged when I did the filter, fluid smelt and looked fine. Transfer case fluid changed about 5k miles ago. Factory LSD rear diff not serviced recently but fluid suctioned from fill hole looks acceptable.
I'm afraid that something is going on with torque converter/shudder but I don't get any shudder or slip under acceleration or at any other time and gear shifts are smooth. I know that the 4R100's can be sketchy, especially with 130k, but want to get suggestions before digging into it. I've also got a very slow hydroboost leak/weep but the power steering fluid is properly filled. Steering is smooth and proper, brake pedal movement is normal so I assume there is no air in the lines.
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Just bought this van used last fall. Had an occasion, a few months ago, to brake quite hard (to avoid hitting a bird in the road--yeah, I know...) and felt a clattering vibration/noise in my brake pedal. It's happened a few times since then. Is this a problem that needs to be looked at or a normal reaction to quick, hard braking? (Braking noise in 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan)
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My Prius c has always made a high speed whirling noise when braking but now at speeds of 42 to 46 MPH this high speed whirling noise is there and when you are just coasting have a noisy transmission or is this something I should be getting to the dealer with.
EVCT transmission noise ....
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I have been getting a little wobble at high speeds(80MPH) when i brake the car. I am guessing those are the front disk brakes (had similar experience with my old 2002 Galant which i fixed with the brakes). My Sonata has 67,000 miles. Is it ok if i replace just the pads ?
2011 2.4L Hyundai Sonata SE
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