Dodge - Dakota :: 1997 - Intermittent High Idle
Oct 1, 2012
vehicle 1997 dakota engine 3.9L w/autotrans.
The vehicle exhibits an intermittent high idle. I have replaced the usual IAC stepper motor and checked the tps for proper function, also completely cleaned, inspected and relubed the throttle body and linkage.
According to my Inova 3140, there are no codes and the temperature sensors and tps percentage are reading correctly. Also the battery and charging system are functioning correctly.
I do not have bi directional capability or the ability to monitor any of the pid'sOne other thing is that she also has a slight rough idle, but that could be the 200,000 miles.
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I have a '99 Dakota 4 cylinder. Starts fine but as it warms up or if you gas it the idle stays high. The more you run it the higher it goes. Have replaced MAP senser, throttle position and air bypass with no effect.( map and high tps voltage only codes shown ) Vacuum problem?
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My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermitent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air in leakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
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My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
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I have this whistling noise coming from the front area of my truck (97 dodge dakota) 4X4. The noise sounds like air at high pitch (just my opinion and friends), happens around 30 to 40 mph when you hear the whistling noise. I've taped all holes and gaps that might be causing the sound but no avail. I've had a friend look at it, that's a fire truck mechanic and no luck and he said it didn't sound like wheel bearing problem.
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I have a 2007 dodge Dakota with 112K miles. At 105K I had the front brake rotors and pads replaced. The rear brakes were fine. There was a problem with one of the rotors and I returned a week or two later and one, which was warped, was replaced. Ever since that second visit I have had an intermittent vibration from the vehicle. When I brake the whole truck vibrates. And by vibrating, I mean some pretty heavy shaking. It is not the steering wheel vibrating. I took this back to the mechanic where they were unable to find any issues with the brakes. Also, we could not (of course) re-create the issue while it was in the shop. I have not been able to find the pattern. It happens when I am braking at high speeds, but not every time. It also happens at lower speed, but again, not every time.
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When my gas light comes on during the day my horn blows every couple minutes at night time the headlights go from high-beam to low-beam every couple minutes. Also, my check engine light is on more than it is off
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We have a 1996 Dodge Dakota SLT that we purchased used. It starts and runs beautifully when the engine is cold; however, if you turn the vehicle off it is difficult to get it restarted and to keep it idling without keeping your foot on the accelerator. The funky thing is that after your "fight" with it a few minutes (i.e., foot constantly on the accelerator), the truck will then start to run correctly and idle correctly until the next time you turn off the engine. We have noticed that on each occasion when we have had this problem, the engine smells EXTREMELY flooded. We've been told its a temperature sensor, any other number of sensors, and now the IAC. If starting by process of elimination with least expensive fix first, what the heck do we replace first?
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Here's what is going on with my 2000 Dakota V6 3.9L V6:
After sitting for at least a couple of hours, the truck will crank but not start. After 3-5 tries, the truck does start but idles roughly at a very low RPM for 10 seconds or so and then stalls. I turn the key one more time and it starts up great and idles and drives normally. This behavior is very consistent. I have only driven it about 5 miles after it started doing this, because on that trip, the engine stalled while I was driving. Occasionally the MIL comes on and gives P0443 as the code. Question is, can the evap purge solenoid cause this behavior if it is going bad? I have inspected the vacuum lines, and they seem ok.
One more note: When this first started, I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump. Replacing that has not fixed the problem, and the fuel pump relay is good.
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This is an ongoing problem that has lasted for several weeks now -- I’m completely flummoxed and at a loss. It goes something like this:
My truck (2000 Dodge Dakota, 2.5L, 5-speed) has developed -- for lack of a better term -- a high-pitched whining squeal, which only occurs after I put it in gear and actually start moving (if I leave it idling in neutral, when starting it after letting it sit overnight, the sound usually does not appear at all). After about three or four minutes of driving time, the sound will show up, but there’s an odd twist: the sound is most apparent, and really loud, when the truck is at idle, such as when at a stop sign or traffic signal; when I put it in gear and take off, the noise will drop in pitch and, depending on how hard I’m pressing on the accelerator, it sometimes disappears altogether.
When I take off, every time I shift gears the sound returns -- only for as long as I step on the clutch and back off the gas, and when I step on the accelerator again the noise falls in pitch and vanishes. It does this off-and-on thing through all the gears, and after reaching the desired road speed (and I’ve reduced pressure on the gas pedal) the sound returns and is constant. Also, if I shut the truck off and wait just a few minutes, and then fire it back up, the sound will be gone, but will return after a short while, exactly as related above. It’s worth noting that, during all this irritating misadventure, the engine has run exactly as it always has -- there’s been no discernible impact on performance.
Now, some considerations. The noise is louder and more strident when the ambient temperature is lower, such as in the morning. Later in the day, when the temperature rises, the sound becomes erratic and somewhat unpredictable, and is much lower in volume, and it will even stop abruptly and then reappear later.
Many people have suggested that it could be the belt or a pulley, maybe. I replaced both tensioners and even installed a new, shorter belt to bypass the A/C compressor (to eliminate it as the possible culprit), but the noise remains. I was skeptical of all that because -- and please correct me if I’m wrong -- a shot pulley making such a horrible racket should get louder as engine speed increases, not drop in pitch and disappear. In fact, the noise seems to have no relation to engine RPM; if anything, it seems tied somehow to intake manifold pressure (the sound vanishes when the truck is accelerating, which is when intake manifold pressure goes down, or so is my understanding), or throttle position, or something else entirely. The vacuum system? The noise seems mechanical to me, not like escaping air (or, well, vacuum) . . . but what do I know?
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Cold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
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I have a 2000 Dakota 5.9 truck that has all of a sudden started to idle rough, loses power over 3000rpm or any kind of reasonable acceleration , with a big sucking sound from the throttle body ( no leaks), seems like it is not getting fuel. Someone mentioned it maybe the "MAP" sensor.
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I drive a 1997 dodge Dakota 5.2l 5 speed manual 4wd and recently it started making a really aggressive banging or popping noise while I was driving, it also made the truck bounce up and down a little bit and I could feel the shifter move up and down while this was happening. So I went underneath and discovered my transmission mount was out so I changed that and as well I changed a few u joints. One thing i noticed while I was replacing u joints was that when I had the front drive shaft off the whole problem was reduced to just a minor popping noise but once I slapped back on the front drive shaft it all came back. Another problem that is occurring because all of this is that when I tried to use the 4wd in 4 hi it just kicked it out of 4hi but in 4 lo it would stay in but all the problems were still there. The only time it doesn't do anything is when I am already rolling and I put the 4wd selector in neutral to disengage the drive shafts.
I have asked a few different people their opinions and I get different answers, someone thought it could be something to do with the steering shaft or intermediate steering shaft but I think that is not the correct diagnostic. Another one of my buddies suggested that it might be a stretched chain or gear in the transfer case that is causing it.
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'97 dodge dakota engine starts and vehicle will move and then engine dies. Just bought it and it ran fine. Coil was replaced by previous owner four months ago. At times it will run fine but is not reliable and wife will not drive in it. Had it towed to dodge dealer and they said it needed a new coil which they installed and still have the same problem and now think it might be the ecm which is mine even if it does not cure problem. Truck has 145k miles and otherwise is in good shape. When it does run, engine is strong, automatic shifts good and all accessories work. But, it won't keep running.
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I just replaced fuel pump and tps on my 1989 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl truck. Now it idles rough and the check engine light came on. I have removed battery cable to reset computer but did no good. What could be the problem now? I have since replaced the plug wires and distrib cap and it is flashing 3 5 5 twice now?
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I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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1993 Geo Prizm, manual transmission: Intermittent failure to start over a two year period, gradually becoming more frequent. The engine turns over every time the key is turned to start the engine, i.e. the starter motor/battery/battery connections work flawlessly. Once started the engine runs flawlessly without misses or shut downs. The only possible problem may be the engine idle speed that seems at times to be too high even after the engine is warmed up. Without predictability, the engine may fail to start when the key is turned.
Remember the engine still turns over normally. It just does not fire up. Two options exist for my predicament. That which is resorted to the most because of the speed of recovery: step out of the vehicle and push start the car by popping the clutch. The other alternative which I have been forced to utilize before because of the physical impossibility of push starting (i.e. if I had been able to push, I would have popped the clutch to start) at the time has been to wait for a protracted period and re-attempt to key start the car. This has been successful a couple of times.
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I have a 2001 F150 with the 4.6 engine. I get an intermittent drop in the idle from 700 RPM to about 500 RPM. The computer catches it quickly and brings the idle back up. It might drop several times and clear up or it might not happen at all. Seems only to happen on a hot engine, never when cold and in gear, if in park or neutral seems to idle ok. Changed the idle air control valve but no different. Runs fine except for the idle dropping when stopped.
Never get a check engine light, and no codes from the computer when I had it checked. Could this be the vapor management valve turning on?
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97 Dodge Dakota Sport V8. Has spark, turns over, won't fire.
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My dad has a 2001 Dodge Dakota extended cab with a 3.9L v6 (standard transmission). It will start and run for a while and it will die, if you turn the key it will start up again but will eventually die. He has changed the spark plugs & wires, the distributor cap & rotor, the MAP sensor, and the throttle valve sensor. It still does the same thing.
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