Dodge - Dakota :: 1996 SLT Idles Rough / RPMs Will Drop To Near 0 Within About 20 Seconds Of Coming To A Stop
Apr 2, 2011
So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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I have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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Cold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
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Here's what is going on with my 2000 Dakota V6 3.9L V6:
After sitting for at least a couple of hours, the truck will crank but not start. After 3-5 tries, the truck does start but idles roughly at a very low RPM for 10 seconds or so and then stalls. I turn the key one more time and it starts up great and idles and drives normally. This behavior is very consistent. I have only driven it about 5 miles after it started doing this, because on that trip, the engine stalled while I was driving. Occasionally the MIL comes on and gives P0443 as the code. Question is, can the evap purge solenoid cause this behavior if it is going bad? I have inspected the vacuum lines, and they seem ok.
One more note: When this first started, I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump. Replacing that has not fixed the problem, and the fuel pump relay is good.
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2003 7.3 excursion.. The truck starts every time revs up and idles about 3 seconds then the rpms drop and it tries to stall out catches itself then revs backup and idles rough similar to if you have got air in the fuel lines from changing the fuel filter.. About 1 in five times the truck will stall out and it starts and immediately and idles rough but the rpms and everything runs at speed and rpms don't drop again! This is a reman engine/transmission recently installed.. The mechanic who installed it was unable to figure the problem out.
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I have an 87 longbed Dakota that I bought new. It's my work truck. Lately it has developed a chirping noise that I hear best with the rear slider window open. I think it is safe to say that it is not coming from under the hood. When I accelerate from a stop the chirping noise increases in pitch and frequency. The frequency does not change when the auto trans up shifts. There has been no noticeable out-of-the-ordinary vibrations, even at freeway speeds.
I have stopped driving on the freeway since the chirping became impossible to ignore. The chirping becomes less and less audible the faster I go as the pitch and frequency increases. When just starting from a dead stop, it sounds like a metallic scraping noise. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the chirping stops, even when still coasting, so it only occurs under load. It does not occur when the truck is stopped and the engine is revved.
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My 06 Dodge Dakota, has a terrible racket coming from the front end when you hit a rough place in the roads especially the left side, seems worse when the wheels are cut, nothing is obviously loose ,it has 88K miles on it.
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I have an '88 Dakota, 230K miles, with the following problem:For the last month or so, the truck has been hard to start--had to crank once, wait 10 seconds or so, then crank again. Gradually, this problem increased to the point where it would stumble at WOT, then even at 3/4 throttle or so.Thinking it was the fuel pump, I replaced it, along with the filter.
Problem remains; in fact, it seems even worse, to the point where the truck only idles (can't put any load on it, or it stumbles). So, at this point I suspect the fuel pressure regulator. However, I don't want to buy it unnecessarily. Given that a F.P.R. is designed to send a part of the pump output back, would pinching off part/all of the return line be a valid diagnostic test?Anything else that comes to mind?
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I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
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So my 96 Dodge Dakota's instrument lights went out a couple days ago, I thought it was just a fuse, so naturally I check all the fuses. Come to find out they're all fine, I replaced a few to see if maybe it was just an old fuse. Still nothing. Then last night I noticed that the instrument lights came on between off and on for the lights. So I assume its a wiring problem. Then as I drove down the road I hit a bump and all the lights went off then kicked back on. Needless to say I can't drive around with lights that won't stay on. Where should I check for the cause of this problem?
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so my 96 dodge dakota has been acting up a lot lately. I can barely drive in town let alone on the highway. when I drive, keep in mind its random most of the time, my truck will start jumping and then lose power. when I try to power thru it my truck will backfire and then shut off. once I try to start again it floods the engine. most of the time it will do this going up a hill or when it has to get above 3000 rpm. I don't know what's causing it. I replaced the throttle body fuel injection sensor and tranny filter but I figure its a fuel problem.
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We have a 1996 Dodge Dakota SLT that we purchased used. It starts and runs beautifully when the engine is cold; however, if you turn the vehicle off it is difficult to get it restarted and to keep it idling without keeping your foot on the accelerator. The funky thing is that after your "fight" with it a few minutes (i.e., foot constantly on the accelerator), the truck will then start to run correctly and idle correctly until the next time you turn off the engine. We have noticed that on each occasion when we have had this problem, the engine smells EXTREMELY flooded. We've been told its a temperature sensor, any other number of sensors, and now the IAC. If starting by process of elimination with least expensive fix first, what the heck do we replace first?
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My '96 Dakota SLT 6-cylinder pickup backfired and blew a hole in my muffler ... I've had it in three different shops on six occasions since and the thing still hiccups, backfires, stalls ... most of the electrical switches and sensors have been replaced ... right before it back fires, it feels like it is going to stall, then "POW" ... sometimes it continues to run fine for a little while after that ... then it happens again ... When it stalls it feels like it is running out of gas ... it is almost impossible to restart right away, but if I wait a few minutes, the starts right up ...
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i have a 96 slt v8 dakota im trying to fix myself. it wont start. put new batt. new starter motor. it just clicks engine wont turn everything in truck is working but when i turn the key to start its just clicks and my radio losses power. so i took out radio and still wont start...
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So I own a 96 Dodge Dakota and its had a few problems since I first bought it, but its all fixed except for one really puzzling problem. My head light will flash on and off while on low beams after about 30 minutes (if on high beams its almost instantaneous). It all started out with my dash lights going out then the head lights would go out when driving. I checked the switch and plug, both were fried, so easy enough fix. That fixed the dash lights, but the head lights still go out. I replaced the bulbs and yet the problem still exists. I then took it to O'Reilleys and the put a volt meter to my negative battery post and to and auxiliary wire just 6 inches from the post. When the lights were on they produced around 46 ohms of resistance and when they shut off they produced 26 ohms. Which isnt good, so I replaced the negative battery cable to try and fix the problem. This still did not solve it. The only other suggestion I have been given is to replace the high/low beam switch on the steering whee. Could that solve the problem?
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My 2004 Dodge Dakota V6 4X4 hesitates/jumps/lags (don't know what to call it, but it feels like something momentarily holds back the truck from behind) when I am starting up a hill. I start to loose speed/RPMs and give it a little gas, the RPMs don't change, then it happens. As soon as the transmission does down shift though, and the RPMs go up, it stops. This issue happens the most between about 40 to 50 mph and 1000 and 2000 RPMs. If I turn overdrive off then this problem does not occur even when the RPMs dip down below 2000, which in all fairness is not often. The truck has appx. 128,000 miles on it. What this could be?
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I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 2WD manual trans with 160K racked up. In the morning it does not like to start right away. I put the clutch down, key in the ignition, turn it to engage the electricity, say a prayer and turn. When it doesn't start nothing happens. No sounds. Nothing. If I hold the key fully turned and wait, sometimes much longer than 60 seconds, it starts and sounds just fine. Once it is running for some time I can turn it off and turn it back on again without hesitation. In colder weather it takes much longer to start.
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I have a 02 Dodge Dakota 4.7 liter that is killing me. No codes and no check engine light. From a cold start it starts fine but then runs rough. If I let it run for a few minutes, turn it off and try to restart it, it is very hard to start. Also, if I have it running and rev the engine above 3k rpm and let go of the gas it dies. It will idle without holding the gas pedal down but will die after a rev. Fuel pressure and volume are right in spec. Have good compression, spark and injector pulse on all cylinders. I thought maybe a crank or cam position sensor, but either of those would usually throw some type of code. I thought IAC but it seems to be functioning properly.
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My 2002 Dakota with a 3.9 (200,000 miles)has a problem that I cannot seem to cure.When I start the engine it never hesitates....it starts without a problem. No excess cranking...it fires up as it always did.It does run a bit rough as if ONE cylinder is missing every few revolutions. If I let it idle in the driveway for five minutes it will clear up and run fine. But if I take off right away the following will happen.I put it in gear (automatic) and for the first mile or two it runs as though the plug wires (More than one) are wet and arcing. I can barely get above 25mph. it will spit and sputter for that first mile or two.
Then suddenly it will clear up and surge....probably because I have loaded the system with excess fuel......and after it clears up , I have no other problems with it weather I'm on a long trip or a short one. If I stop for more than 15minutes, I have to go thru all this again.I've had vehicles that acted like this after a hard rain because the plug wires were old and arcing...that's why I use that as a description.I also noticed that the other day right at the end of a big downpour it took at least 5 miles to clear up.
Before this rainstorm I had replaced the plugs, wires, rotor and cap, while inside the shop so everything should have been bone dry except for all the humidity from the storm. After starting I checked for any arcing while in the dark shop and even moved a few wires that were touching and no arcing was seen from the cap, wires or coil. I also changed out all those parts 6 months ago when I did a major tune up, but it ran fine untill about two months ago.
When this started two months ago is was just a rare occurrence and my mechanic thought that I had gotten some gas with water in it. He had me run a few bottles of injector cleaner it the next few fill-ups and I've run a few bottles of heet through it also. In the last two weeks it has been doing this every time I start up. When this did start showing up it would show a code of a random misfire and the engine light would come on even though I felt no signs of a misfire myself. The light would stay on for a day or two then go back off. A few days later it was back on.I thought that I fixed the problem because the light stayed off for a month.
So it has been only the last two weeks that it bucks and kicks so bad at a startup, but you would think that an engine misfire would show up and the engine light come on. By the way the light does work. Now, I never get a engine light on, and he found no codes in the history. I have my own scanner, but his can do so much more. I never find any codes also. My mechanic ran some diagnostic's and found an up-stream 0,2 sensor bad so we replaced that.
Yesterday I dropped the tank, pulled the pump and cleaned the tank real good. The only filter is the sock on the pump and that was clean. I refilled with fresh gas and I still have the same problem. So I think that we can eliminate water in the fuel, plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. My next thought is the cam sensor in the distributor.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2l MPFI and auto trans that has me and many other mechanics stumped. Recently it stalled on me when I pulled it into the driveway, and ever since it has had this problem.
When I start it up in the morning and it's cold, the problem isn't as bad, but as it warms up it gets worse. It sounds like it's running rough, but its firing on all cylinders. I've verifies this by pulling the plug wires and also the fuel injector wires, and each one will bog the engine down a bit. Also, when I'm cruising or parked, if I hold the throttle at 1000 rpm or less, it loads up and will stall when I let off the throttle. I have to bump the throttle to about 1500 rpm or so when pulling up to a light so that it won't stall on me. When I hold the throttle and it loads up, I can read the o2 sensor with a scanner and it shows 0.8 or 0.9v, so I know it's running rich. If I let off, the sensor reads normal. It's not super rich, but enough that it causes this problem.
Things I've tried so far:
- Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
- New coil (old one had cracks in the case)
- Checked distributor for play in the shaft, timing chain for looseness, and cam sensor for damage
- Has a new PCM, swapped back to old one and the problem still exists
- Checked fuel pressure with and without regulator, is within specs cold or warmed up, no odd drops in pressure
- Checked all sensors with scanner to verify they read within specs
- Replaced all sensors with known good used AND new and none made any difference (o2 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS, air intake temperature, idle air control, coolant temp sensor)Plugs are brown/tan colored, none are blatantly rich
- Replaced the battery, alternator, and checked all grounds
- Checked the EGR system for correct operation
- Checked for vacuum leaks and broken wires, found none
The truck also has no catalytic converter and only has 1 pre-cat o2 sensor. I also am not getting any codes.
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I've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
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