Dodge - Dakota :: 1993 - Quits Running At Any Time / From Right After Startup To Going Down The Road
Feb 22, 2014
My 1993 Dodge Dakota quits running at any time, from right after start-up to going down the road. It wont start running again until the check engine light comes on when the ignition is turned on. I can sit there from a few seconds to five minutes before the check engine light comes on. I have cycled the key three times to check for a code, but there are none. I have checked much of the wiring to the relays and some to the PCM, but have found nothing wrong. This truck did the same thing with the two previous owners, and had the PCM replaced, to no avail.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2l MPFI and auto trans that has me and many other mechanics stumped. Recently it stalled on me when I pulled it into the driveway, and ever since it has had this problem.
When I start it up in the morning and it's cold, the problem isn't as bad, but as it warms up it gets worse. It sounds like it's running rough, but its firing on all cylinders. I've verifies this by pulling the plug wires and also the fuel injector wires, and each one will bog the engine down a bit. Also, when I'm cruising or parked, if I hold the throttle at 1000 rpm or less, it loads up and will stall when I let off the throttle. I have to bump the throttle to about 1500 rpm or so when pulling up to a light so that it won't stall on me. When I hold the throttle and it loads up, I can read the o2 sensor with a scanner and it shows 0.8 or 0.9v, so I know it's running rich. If I let off, the sensor reads normal. It's not super rich, but enough that it causes this problem.
Things I've tried so far:
- Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
- New coil (old one had cracks in the case)
- Checked distributor for play in the shaft, timing chain for looseness, and cam sensor for damage
- Has a new PCM, swapped back to old one and the problem still exists
- Checked fuel pressure with and without regulator, is within specs cold or warmed up, no odd drops in pressure
- Checked all sensors with scanner to verify they read within specs
- Replaced all sensors with known good used AND new and none made any difference (o2 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS, air intake temperature, idle air control, coolant temp sensor)Plugs are brown/tan colored, none are blatantly rich
- Replaced the battery, alternator, and checked all grounds
- Checked the EGR system for correct operation
- Checked for vacuum leaks and broken wires, found none
The truck also has no catalytic converter and only has 1 pre-cat o2 sensor. I also am not getting any codes.
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I've got a '93 Dakota that wouldn't start this morning after a cold snap, it used to fit just fine in any temp. It's cranking strong, can smell gas, and it's getting spark (used an inline tester). Battery had a full charge. Lay night the windchill got down to -40 Fahrenheit.
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My 06 Dodge Dakota, has a terrible racket coming from the front end when you hit a rough place in the roads especially the left side, seems worse when the wheels are cut, nothing is obviously loose ,it has 88K miles on it.
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After I drive my truck and park it for any period of time and then restart the truck it will sputter and backfire rpms do not go over 1500-2000. If I put it in neutral and rev the engine this will work but not always correct the issue. Eventually if I just push through it after 2 or 3 min it will go back to normal. I replaced the spark plugs, wiring and distributor cap. I have also changed the O2 sensors nothing seems to work though.
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i have a dodge Dakota and there is water that leaks into the front right passenger side when I run the AC...
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The truck had a hard time starting, turn the key over hear that it wants to, but won't. Once getting it started, truck would drive fine, but after about 10 minutes just dies while driving. It then took 6-7 tries to get it started again, drove back like no issue. What it could be? I have come up with, potential battery, fuel pump/filter, spark plugs, EEC relay, PCM, or AIS motor, O2 sensor....
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At first it wouldnt start without me burying the throttle, and wouldnt stay running if i took my foot off the gas, i replaced the throttle position sensor and it starts with no issue, but now if i give it any gas, it shuts of, unless i let off the gas very slowly, what do i do?
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we had a shop replace a thermostat in oct 10, last week our truck started running hot so we put in about 3 qt of 50/50 coolant. it returned to normal temp the next day we noticed some foam coming out of the overflow. when we opened the hood it looked like a brownish/red color and is a thick foam. When taking it back to the garage they cannot tell what it is. They have tried to flush it out and say they put in 3qt of fluid and only get out 1qt. It can be chunky at times. What it could be?
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While driving home after replacing a dead battery, clearly I didn't tighten the negative cable enough as it popped off while I was driving (I only found this out after I got home though). But even after popping off, the truck kept going, albeit with the battery gauge maxed out and the dashboard/headlights flickering. I turned off what I could (it was night, so I needed headlights!), but it still accelerated well, and there were no noticeable performance issues at all. When I got home, I tightened the cable, started it up again just fine, ran it for a minute, then turned it off and restarted it fine again with no problems.
My concern is: am I looking at serious electrical issues long term, or should I be ok? I'm just trying to make sure that driving without a negative cable for less than a mile doesn't fry certain parts of the car, and end up causing big issues down the road. (Truck is a 2000 dodge dakota slt)
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1993 3.0 V6 5 Spd ... Changed plugs wires Cap and rotor put in a new idle control Valve. No Check engine light. When i am running down the road feels like it surges,hickups, while its at idle the motor shakes like no tomorrow. Just dont want to throw money at something and not be the part that was wrong. Truck has plenty of pickup runs like a raped ape going down the highway. seems when i accelerate the miss clears up and not there. RPM gauge needle has some movement in it. Also put in K&N filter fuel filter as well.
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Last summer I bought a heavier horse trailer and needed a bigger, badder truck to pull it with. I finally found a 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 (4 wheels, not 6) 4x4 diesel truck. I am very happy with it except: When I have pulled for about 1-1/2 to 2 hrs, the a/c fan just quits blowing. I turn it off and crack the windows for 10-15 min and then it will come back on full force. For awhile. Then it quits again, etc, etc. I haven't pulled that long in cooler weather yet, but would guess the same thing would happen. It doesn't seem to be the a/c, just the fan. Of course getting to the garage in middle of this non-activity isn't possible and I just get blank looks when I describe the problem.
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My 2011 sonata rattles when starting. It sounds like noisy lifters and quits after 2-3 seconds. It does not do it on the first start-up of the day, but on subsequent starts when the engine is warm.
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I have a 2010 Grand Caravan, and the engine just stops while moving down the road. Once you shift to neutral, the engine starts again easily. The only common thing we've found is that the skid control light goes on. It doesn't seem to happen when going more than 30 mph, and does seem to happen more when the temps outside are changing, but both when we get a warm spell or a cold snap. The recall work on the key assembly has been done, and the key always seem to be in the on position, so it's not that known issue. The local garage couldn't find anything or even replicate the problem. The dealership replaced the spark plugs and did a fuel system cleaning. Those were probably due, but they didn't seem to work much.
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Engine is a high mileage (over 150,000) one. Truck is manual transmission. Above 2000 RPMS, low rumble noise and vibrations felt through gear shift lever. Only hear it when engine under load. I think its worn crank bearings... 1993/3.9 Dakota ....
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2008 3.3L 77,800 miles (approx). Bought this car as a replacement for my totaled 2006 back in May 2011. I have noticed on morning starts or hot starts after car has sat for about 30 min, a 'Rod knock" sound that quits exactly at the same time the oil light goes out. I bought this car with 60K on it, with all 60K maintenance items done by dealer. I have since replaced oil on 5K intervals, have used 5w-30, 5w-20. Genuine Hyundai filters and one Fram cartridge. Nothing has changed. The car runs ok, other than horrible gas mileage ( average 2.8 LESS than my '06 under same conditions and verified by manual calculations). While the car runs ok, the noise unnerves me every time i hear it. Once i get lights out on oil pressure it never is heard again until the next start. Is this something I need to be concerned with? I had a sample of the oil analyzed at 65k, and came back good.
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97 Dodge Dakota Sport V8. Has spark, turns over, won't fire.
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My dad has a 2001 Dodge Dakota extended cab with a 3.9L v6 (standard transmission). It will start and run for a while and it will die, if you turn the key it will start up again but will eventually die. He has changed the spark plugs & wires, the distributor cap & rotor, the MAP sensor, and the throttle valve sensor. It still does the same thing.
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So, my oil light comes on after startup like usual then shuts off. Anywhere from 2-5 minutes of the vehicle running light comes back on and does not shut off unless I restart the vehicle. Have changed oil pressure switch and oil pressure is reading in the normal range..
05 dakota with 175000 kilometres
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I have a 2010 Chrysler Sebring that in the past month will all of a sudden quit running. Had to the dealership twice in past month. New plugs, injectors cleaned. Got car out of shop yesterday and drove 6 miles and it quit twice again. Too late to take back to dealer. They have checked it out twice on monitor and all they said was what they did to repair. It seems to me that it is a fuel problem. Maybe a fuel pump, fuel filter, or dirt in the fuel itself. Will have to take back to dealer Monday. What do you think is the problem. Not missing or ideling rough. Runs good, but will all of a sudden quit.
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1999 Dodge Dakota
3.6 liter w/air conditioning
I'm pretty sure I made a mess of things. My Serpentine belt was all cracked and making noises while idling and driving. It was time to replace it. It's a long story, but my auto mechanic told me to drive my truck for a week and then give him a call. Well.... I didn't do that. My battery went dead and I charged it up and it lasted a month. Yesterday, it wouldn't start so I bought a Serpentine belt and installed it. As far as I know, I didn't damage anything while I was working on it.
The battery was still dead and I charged it, however, the key was turned on while I was charging it. I don't know how I did that, but I did.
The problem I'm having is that the engine is now idling at 2000 RPM. I scanned it and there are no codes or pending codes.
Today, I went out and drew a diagram of how the belt is routed and it's the same as the diagram under the hood. I had a friend take a look at it and he agrees that I put it on correctly.
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