Alright, so my battery is fully charged and there's water in it. When I turn they key, there is a rapid mechanical clicking clearly coming from the starter area, but no attempt to turn over. Stuck solenoid? Bad starter relay? Bad starter? Missing teeth on the flywheel? Seized engine? The Mayan calendar apocalypse?
View 3 RepliesI have a 99 dakota. The truck wont turn over, headlights/doom lights nothing in side works. But when i open the door the glove boxes starts making a clicking noise ? it happened once before and once i pushed it down a little drive way everything turned back on ? What could cause this problem ?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford Focus, we bought it used. On occasion it loses power(electrical) and won't start I hear a relay clicking faintly but no attempt by the starter to engage. when this happens the am/fm radio will lose the presets and will actually come on by itself at a am mode and static. when this has happened I have touched various electrical components (battery posts fuses relays etc) and most times on the next try it will start. Sometimes you turn the key back on a couple of times and it starts immediately .
I have had this happen twice while driving down the road and not noticed any change except the radio comes on by itself and presets and clock needs to be reset. I have pulled all fuses and relays to check for any corrosion and plugged all connection etc in and out all looks ok. This might only happen once a month or if vehicle is left setting for a few days Battery is new and checked at 97% unit starts up immediately if problem is not there and it doesn't seem to matter what you touch or move it just starts when it wants to Ford dealer says it needs a new battery (doesn't comment when told it is new and battery and starter work fine when called on except for this glitch).
The starter in my '93 Dakota was dying (usual signs of worn brushes) so I replaced it with a new one from AutoZone. The starters looked the same, and after calling back to double check the part #, the store swears it's the right part. However, when I engage the starter, it spins but the pinion gear doesn't engage the flywheel. I can't see how I could have installed it wrong - the two bolts seem to have only one place they can go.
View 19 RepliesThere is a clicking sound (about once per second) in the front of the engine compartment of my 2002 Dodge Dakota (2WD, quad cab, manual, no alarm, no electric windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) when the vehicle is off (ignition in the off position - with or without key in ignition). It stops if the battery is disconnected, if the key is in the run position, or if the key is in the position that allows one to use power while the vehicle is off. The interior lights and headlights will flash in sync with the clicking sound if they are on as well. The chime that lets you know that the key is in the ingnition with the door open will miss a beat with the click also. The amps running through the circuit (no lights on) jump up from 27 milliamps to 39 milliamps with the click sound. A possibly related issue is that the headlights no longer stay on for the 30 seconds or so that they used to when I turn off and exit the truck after having driven with the lights on. The clicking and light flashing continued even though I removed each fuse and relay in the box under the hood and the one next to the driver door (the lights stopped when their fuse was removed, but the clicking continued).
View 3 RepliesOnly started happening within the last month. 1994 V8 Dakota. When its warmer out, half the time I turn the key and nothing happens, doesn't even crank over, but if I tap the gas then turn the key, it starts right up. What this could be?
View 2 Repliesi have a 96 slt v8 dakota im trying to fix myself. it wont start. put new batt. new starter motor. it just clicks engine wont turn everything in truck is working but when i turn the key to start its just clicks and my radio losses power. so i took out radio and still wont start...
View 2 RepliesWhen the truck is in reverse, turn the wheel, it acts like is about to stall out. Sometimes just idling the engine at a stop and turn the wheel it acts likes its going to stall out.
View 4 RepliesI have an 87 longbed Dakota that I bought new. It's my work truck. Lately it has developed a chirping noise that I hear best with the rear slider window open. I think it is safe to say that it is not coming from under the hood. When I accelerate from a stop the chirping noise increases in pitch and frequency. The frequency does not change when the auto trans up shifts. There has been no noticeable out-of-the-ordinary vibrations, even at freeway speeds.
I have stopped driving on the freeway since the chirping became impossible to ignore. The chirping becomes less and less audible the faster I go as the pitch and frequency increases. When just starting from a dead stop, it sounds like a metallic scraping noise. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the chirping stops, even when still coasting, so it only occurs under load. It does not occur when the truck is stopped and the engine is revved.
I have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
View 1 Replieswe had a shop replace a thermostat in oct 10, last week our truck started running hot so we put in about 3 qt of 50/50 coolant. it returned to normal temp the next day we noticed some foam coming out of the overflow. when we opened the hood it looked like a brownish/red color and is a thick foam. When taking it back to the garage they cannot tell what it is. They have tried to flush it out and say they put in 3qt of fluid and only get out 1qt. It can be chunky at times. What it could be?
View 1 RepliesMy 06 Dodge Dakota, has a terrible racket coming from the front end when you hit a rough place in the roads especially the left side, seems worse when the wheels are cut, nothing is obviously loose ,it has 88K miles on it.
View 6 RepliesSo I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Dodge Caravan with just over 50,000 miles on it. This summer It started having this issue where when I turned the key, all I got was a click, and then nothing. The starter wouldn't turn over, but all other electronics seemed to be working properly. If I continued to try turning the key (2 or 3 times) eventually the starter would engage and the car would start right up. Assuming a bad connection somewhere I cleaned the battery posts, and a couple other connections I could get to, and the problem seemed to go away. About a month later the same issue started up again, and I was able to fix it the same way.
About a month and a half ago, I went to start my car, turned the key, and NO click. After turning the key a couple times the car would start as before. Then the next time I tried to start the car I again got nothing. On the third try the starter turned over, but only a few times before it died (and it sounded like it was really struggling to turn over too). The fourth time I turned the key the car started right up. This new behavior continued for about a week and then I took it into the shop.
At the shop they first started by cleaning all the connections, which did nothing. Next they put in a new starter which also didn't fix the problem. On the off chance the new starter was bad, they tried a second new starter, and again the problem continued. Finally they pulled out the wiring harness and found 3 "Bad wires" which they replaced. The then also concluded that the bad wires were causes the starter to short out, and that is why the two new starters they tried didn't work. They gave me a new starter, and that in conjunction with the new wires seemed to fix the problem.
Now, every few weeks, I'll go to turn the key, and all I'll get is a click again. The second time i turn the key, however, the car will start right up. This issue maybe happens more when its cold in the morning, but it hasn't happened enough for me to be sure. The clicking issue doesn't bother me that much because the car always starts, but I'm worried that the problem will just get worse again. Did my mechanic actually fix the problem I had? Or am I going to need to take it back in to the shop in a couple of months and put another new starter in? Also, I have had my battery tested three times throughout all of this, and it always comes back fine.
I have a 1995 4X4 Chevy Silverado. Well tonight the lower radiator hose came off, and all the coolant drained out while my wife was driving it around town. She noticed that the temp gauge spiked, and tried to get home. The truck stalled, was able to restart it for a moment, stalled again and now when we try to start it up there is a low spinning noise coming from the area around the starter. I think it might be the starter trying to engage the flywheel. My question is whether or not this could because the motor has seized, or is there another symptom that could potentially make this noise.
View 1 RepliesI have just acquired a 2011 F350, 6.7, SRW, 4X4, Long Bed, Super Cab with 125K on the clock.
It has an oil leak, not real serious but messy, that seems to be coming from an area above the starter. What is up there that could leak besides the valve cover?
I know that the later super duties have required the removal of the cab for any work much beyond an oil change. I certainly hope that this not the case here.
My mom's 2012 accent won't start. When turning the key the starter does not even attempt to engage. Battery voltage is fine, I also tried jumping it. I have already checked all the fuses and relays and they are good.
Whenever the car is attempted to be started, the Electronic Throttle Body/ MAF makes a high pitched sound but that is all we can get out of the car right now. I also checked the parking sensor by going from Park (P), through all the gears, and then back to Park. Still nada.
I have a 96 toyota camry that won't start. when i turn the key, the starter clicks but doesn't turn. I replaced the starter and it works fine (as does the one i took out). the battery was obviously checked and is charged. When I hook up the starter to the leads and its not in the engine it doesn't turn (in other words, its not a locked engine). I replaced one of the fuses in the starting relay and it didn't make a difference. So the problem is between the battery and the starter - the starter isn't getting enough power (if i take it to an autoparts store it works when hooked up to their system but doesn't work (but makes a click) when hooked up to the car.
View 3 RepliesSo I left my car running ran into a store came out it had turned off so went to start it it and it wouldn't turn over all you could hear was clicking from the starter so had a guy boost it and engine turned over and started just fine but i had no power to anything I couldn't even take the tranny outta park? So i left it sitting for about an hour went back and it fired up just fine? Had battery tested and it was fully charged. Also when car is off and I am inside my interior lights flash on and off as well as there's a beeping like every 5 to 10 minutes.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2005 Dodge Stratus. 2.7 Engine. It died the other day and wouldn't start up. I tried to jump it and noticed smoke coming from under the engine. When I checked the starter was burnt so I replaced it with a new one and it does the same thing. It almost cranked once and then just makes a woo-woov kind of sound.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 Dakota quad cab with a 4.7 l when I turn on either turn signal itll flash 2-3 times or sometimes not even flash at all when it does it just stops u can hear the flasher working . What to check and how to check/ replace parts I need to get it working again is there a flasher inside the steering column. or is there just a relay on the side where the fuses are ?
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