Dodge - D150 :: Overheating / Smoke A Little More At Start-up And Lasts A Little Longer
Oct 27, 2013
Had a couple bad freeze plugs that made my old 91 D150 with a 318 overheat severely. The truck is repaired but does smoke a little more than it used to at start-up and lasts a little longer. Also when stopped at traffic lights, It will belch a puff upon acceleration. Did the overheat affect oil condition and should I just go ahead and change it? Should I run some Marvel Mystery Oil through it before the change to maybe (hopefully) loosen up the piston rings? I know the valve guide seals are due for replacement but that's another project down the road. I've decided not to do anything with the fuel filter on the Camry...
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I have a 1984 dodge d150 ramcharger i just bought and it has all sorts of problems I am trying to fix as part of a learning process for me. One problem is it squeals when i first start it when i get on the gas. The faster the rpms the louder the squeal...
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My Dodge 150 truck starts missing at about 45 mph. It seems to only do this after it has warmed up for about 20 minutes.
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I have a '79 D100 that needs a new distributor. I've removed the two necessary bolts that I know of. I've tried to twist it, and will will barely turn. I've tried to pry it up. I've loosened a few bolts in the area to see if that relieved pressure. I've degreased the area and sprayed WD40 at the base of it and still nothing.
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Having trouble with my truck not charging. Changed out alternator, v/r and battery and still will not charge.
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Purchased a new-to-us 1st gen dodge pickup, a 92 D150 v6. It's used once or twice a week at max and only has around 90k miles on it.
So a few months after we bought the truck, it stalled, or more like choked, out while driving on these country, hilly roads, at around 50 mph.. it happened once and we didn't think much of it. It happened again not too long after that, though, and we discovered we could push through the stall/choke by giving it a lot of gas.. it sounds terrible, and shakes and sputters, but eventually catches back and starts to run normal.
As months passed, the problem happened more often. So we changed the spark plugs and wires recently. No difference. In a given 40 minute trip along 45-55 mph country roads, the truck will choke and sputter at least 5 or 6 times. It's now so bad that sometimes giving it gas isn't enough to fix the issue and we have to pull over.
We've got an appt scheduled with a mechanic, Our friends think maybe it has to do with the choke plate or carburetor. It seems to happen more often if the AC is on, and other than this, the truck runs great. It starts up fast and idles fine.
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I have a 63 dodge pickup with a habit of burning out ignition coils within 2 weeks. It's happened with the slant 6 motor, it's happened with the 318 v8 and its also happened with the current motor a 440. I have changed the ballast resistor, and the ignition switch, as well as the starter solenoid, and all related wiring.
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I bought a dodge d150 a month ago. when i bought it, the lights work fine. one night i pulled out the headlight switch to turn the lights on, and the headlights came on, but no parking/running lights came on, and the back lighting didn't come on. if i sit there and jiggle the switch between off and where the original "notch" for the parking lights were, i can get them to come on intermittently. but they turn off as soon as i let go of the knob. all the other lights work, headlights, directional, hazards, reverse lights, cargo light...
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91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
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1990 Dodge Ram Van.... How hard is this to fix. Some Guys in Los Banos took two days to replace a fuel pump. End result, new pump not grounded so continually drains battery unless I mess with a fuse everytime I start/stop car.
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My truck started running a little rough so I replaced plugs, wires (looks like a rat may have nibbled them in places), cap and rotor. The truck idles smoother now but there had been kind of a lurching, almost as though it was bogging down then recovering prior to replacing the parts I have done. Now the issue seems worse, if anything. It seems to be either progressive. If I try to drive the truck like this, it's OK once it's going, though it still sort of hesitates periodically. Getting it going, however, is an exercise in frustration.
It's got virtually no power at all and isn't until it surges forward (recovering?) that it goes at all. I realize this may not be the best description but it's about all I can describe it as. The other oddity is it seems intermittent. Sometimes it'll run flawlessly after warming up, others it doesn't. Today, it ran perfectly for 30 to 40 seconds after first starting it to move between parking spots then it began while driving it. I'm concerned about driving as I don't want to cause damage to the engine and also, it's annoying a heck!
The truck's a 1989 Dodge D100 (not D150 as below; why no D100 option?) with the 318, AT and RWD only with about 225,000 miles on it. Historically, it runs without any issues whatsoever, starts instantly every time I ask it to (even now) and overall is great mechanically. (Ugly as heck but its' a truck!) The only issue I've had with it is recently, the coolant overflow hose came off right by the cap and, apparently, I lost enough coolant to overheat. I noticed the temp gauge registering hot and as I pulled over I got quite a cloud of steam.
It must have heated enough to hit the flash point, I guess. This happened on the freeway but I stopped IMMEDIATELY and it was fine once I put the hose back on and got coolant in it. The engine didn't stall or act up, make noises, etc. That was a month or so ago now. Aside from that and needing the brakes done recently (can't imagine that could be related but who knows) the truck hasn't showed any issues at all. Someone mentioned this could be the Idle Air Control motor but my reading suggests that'd only affect me at idle. Am I mistaken or is there something else I should be looking at?
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Recently my car has been overheating and then when I take it the shop they can't find no problem whatsoever. Also my ac is no longer working. The fans might need to be replaced.
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02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
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Two months ago I bought a used 2006 Sonata v6 with 54,000 miles. After a few hundred miles I began to hear a rattle on cold start that lasts approx 5 secs. I did my research and saw the TSB concerning the timing chain tensioners. The TSB instructs the dealer to turn the engine off after reaching operating temp then restart after 10 minutes. If there was no noise after the ten minute start then the car is operating normally. My car does not rattle after the 10 minute start up. I just can't see this as a normal characteristic. What could be causing this noise?
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2006 Sonata LX. It's only on a cold start up and lasts for about 30-45 seconds tops..and then it goes away. Car has 74k on it. Treated well. Only use synthetic oil and no check engine lights. Last oil change I put 5w 30 in it. I know it says to use 5w 20. Could this be the problem?
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So I installed my intake....again this weekend and have been monitoring it to make sure it doesn't pop off again. When you first start up, there is a very loud growl coming from the intake that lasts about 20 seconds. I also noticed that the breather filter kicks in during this time as well. Is this normal? I would yes but want to understand exactly why...
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From time to time I get this high vibration on start-up of the car. It almost seems like more of the engine noise and vibration is coming through to the cabin. It only lasts about 5 seconds from initial start up and the rpm does not change and stays constant. This only happens maybe once every other week or once a month. What or why this could be happening?
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I have an '05 FX4 with 5.4 and 55,000 miles. I've noticed that once in awhile when starting the truck after it has sat for at least a day I get a type of growling noise that lasts for a second or two. It usually happens shortly after the engine starts up and gets running, but it has also happened after it has run for a minute or two and then makes the noise when I give it some gas to take off. From inside the cab the sound seems like it is coming from the driverside firewall area, but on the rare occasion that I'm able to start the truck and jump out before it makes the sound it sounds like it is coming from underneath the center of the truck. It doesn't make the sound every time on a cold start and never makes it on subsequent starts. I drive truck during the week only drive my Ford on weekends and sometimes it goes longer without being started, but I don't know if this has anything to do with it.
I thought it was a shield vibrating or something but have also heard that the VCT parts can make a rattling sound on a cold start also and this has me a little worried. This sound seems more like a fast growl than a rattle, but it happens so fast it's over before I can really register what it is. One time it made the sound twice, once after startup and again after it had idled a minute or two, thats when it seemed like it came from under the center of the truck. The engine has had a slight cam phaser knock since new, but it is so quiet that it can only be heard if you're inside a building or next to a wall and roll the window down.
Also, I change the oil every 2500-3000miles and only use Motorcraft 5w20 and a 820S filter, and generally baby the truck. What this could be. The truck runs great all the time, I just get this noise occasionally after cold start.
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I have a weird A/C issue on my 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan. It has steam coming out of vents randomly and when this happens the A/C no longer cold. I turned off A/C and let the fan running for a while, then turn A/C back on and it's cold again. I also notice the A/C will be cold when the fan in 2x speed. It has water dripping out at the right rear and in the front, I understand this coming from A/C but at the right rear?The cabin air filter is clean (replace last week), this could have been something dirty or the vent stuck open/close that cause cold air re-direct its flow to somewhere else!
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I just bought a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 (Magnum Series); 5.9l, 2WD, 8cyl. After 2 months the transmission went out. I bought a used transmission and had a shop install it. When I picked it up (10-3-14) the mechanic pointed out the shifter is one notch off (ie. in R position its in Park, in N position its in Reverse, etc). In addition it no longer has D1 nor D2 (putting the shift in D-D2 position results in Drive only, no power gears). The mechanic said it was something in the steering column causing the shift display to be off and had no explanation to why there were no power gears.
To make matters worse, the ignition switch no longer reverts to the Off position; the key can be removed but the switch stays On, warning alarm for key being in ignition comes On etc. I admit the ignition switch was old and the switch would sometimes not turn over before the transmission was replaced. He blamed something in the column again. So,
Q1-Is the mechanic correct there is something wrong in the column and not a misalignment he caused when he installed the replacement transmission causing the shifter to be misaligned?
Q2-Why doesn't the truck have D1-D2 gears? Do some transmissions not have these or am I missing something?
Q3-Is the most likely problem to the ignition the ignition switch or solenoid? Or could he have damaged something during the transmission installation? (I ask the latter because he took a panel off under the steering column while installing the replacement transmission.)
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I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 2WD manual trans with 160K racked up. In the morning it does not like to start right away. I put the clutch down, key in the ignition, turn it to engage the electricity, say a prayer and turn. When it doesn't start nothing happens. No sounds. Nothing. If I hold the key fully turned and wait, sometimes much longer than 60 seconds, it starts and sounds just fine. Once it is running for some time I can turn it off and turn it back on again without hesitation. In colder weather it takes much longer to start.
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