Dodge - D150 :: Lurching And Bogging Down / RPMs Dropping Then Recovering
Sep 20, 2011
My truck started running a little rough so I replaced plugs, wires (looks like a rat may have nibbled them in places), cap and rotor. The truck idles smoother now but there had been kind of a lurching, almost as though it was bogging down then recovering prior to replacing the parts I have done. Now the issue seems worse, if anything. It seems to be either progressive. If I try to drive the truck like this, it's OK once it's going, though it still sort of hesitates periodically. Getting it going, however, is an exercise in frustration.
It's got virtually no power at all and isn't until it surges forward (recovering?) that it goes at all. I realize this may not be the best description but it's about all I can describe it as. The other oddity is it seems intermittent. Sometimes it'll run flawlessly after warming up, others it doesn't. Today, it ran perfectly for 30 to 40 seconds after first starting it to move between parking spots then it began while driving it. I'm concerned about driving as I don't want to cause damage to the engine and also, it's annoying a heck!
The truck's a 1989 Dodge D100 (not D150 as below; why no D100 option?) with the 318, AT and RWD only with about 225,000 miles on it. Historically, it runs without any issues whatsoever, starts instantly every time I ask it to (even now) and overall is great mechanically. (Ugly as heck but its' a truck!) The only issue I've had with it is recently, the coolant overflow hose came off right by the cap and, apparently, I lost enough coolant to overheat. I noticed the temp gauge registering hot and as I pulled over I got quite a cloud of steam.
It must have heated enough to hit the flash point, I guess. This happened on the freeway but I stopped IMMEDIATELY and it was fine once I put the hose back on and got coolant in it. The engine didn't stall or act up, make noises, etc. That was a month or so ago now. Aside from that and needing the brakes done recently (can't imagine that could be related but who knows) the truck hasn't showed any issues at all. Someone mentioned this could be the Idle Air Control motor but my reading suggests that'd only affect me at idle. Am I mistaken or is there something else I should be looking at?
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I have a '79 D100 that needs a new distributor. I've removed the two necessary bolts that I know of. I've tried to twist it, and will will barely turn. I've tried to pry it up. I've loosened a few bolts in the area to see if that relieved pressure. I've degreased the area and sprayed WD40 at the base of it and still nothing.
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Purchased a new-to-us 1st gen dodge pickup, a 92 D150 v6. It's used once or twice a week at max and only has around 90k miles on it.
So a few months after we bought the truck, it stalled, or more like choked, out while driving on these country, hilly roads, at around 50 mph.. it happened once and we didn't think much of it. It happened again not too long after that, though, and we discovered we could push through the stall/choke by giving it a lot of gas.. it sounds terrible, and shakes and sputters, but eventually catches back and starts to run normal.
As months passed, the problem happened more often. So we changed the spark plugs and wires recently. No difference. In a given 40 minute trip along 45-55 mph country roads, the truck will choke and sputter at least 5 or 6 times. It's now so bad that sometimes giving it gas isn't enough to fix the issue and we have to pull over.
We've got an appt scheduled with a mechanic, Our friends think maybe it has to do with the choke plate or carburetor. It seems to happen more often if the AC is on, and other than this, the truck runs great. It starts up fast and idles fine.
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91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
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I am not sure if it's my imagination or not, but my car seems to be running differently lately.
When the car shifts into 4th the Rpms seem to drop kind of and the car seems like it is bogging down. Not extreme, but I don't remember this when I first got it. It's like I really have to accelerate when it shifts into 4th or I cannot pick any speed up.
Is it because the motor is now broken in? It has right at 8,000 miles now. It's due for an oil change, but I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it !
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I have '05 Camry v4. Everything was fine but three days ago I started to have issues. At first I tried starting the engine it would fire up with RPMs going to about 2000 as per usual start. Instead of going down to 800 as it usually does the RPMs just keep on dropping until car stalls. On the first day it started happening I would simply try to start the car again and it would start.
Progressively it would take me more tries to start the engine. It's always the same way (be it a cold start or a start after I've just drove for a while). First try - the engine starts and stalls right away and after that I have to keep on trying to start it for some time. So finally it wouldn't start at all. Starter cranks, battery fine, but the car simply would not start. Weird part about it, is that once the car starts it acts completely normal. No spikes in RPMs, no loss of power, nothing! At this point I just don't know what the hell it is.
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My oil pressure had been dropping to 0 for a while. After searching the internet, I replaced the oil sending unit. This seemed to fix the issue for a while - until I was going up some hills, and the engine began revving really high, and the oil pressure once again dropped to 0. I then heard some noise from the engine, so I pulled over and turned it off. I had it towed to a garage, and told the tow driver to NOT start the car, because I thought the oil pump was out, and so no oil was getting to the engine.
I then called the garage, and told them it was coming in, and NOT to start it, because the engine was not getting oil, and I thought oil pump might be bad. They called me back an hour later to tell me they had added some oil and started it, and the engine was gone.
First question, is would a good garage have tried starting the car with the information they had? My expectation was that they would have tried to check things out without starting it.
Second, should I try to replace the oil pump and see if the car starts?
Make: dodge
Model: durango
Model Year: 2000
Odometer Mileage: 205,000
Amount of oil consumed between oil changes: 1 qt
Frequency of oil changes, in terms of both odometer mileage and elapsed time: 6months, 5000 miles
Oil level was checked once every one to two weeks.
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1995 RAM 2500 5.9L 2x4...
I think the wire to my oil pressure gauge might be shorting or loose, since the needle sometimes swings from 0 to the middle unexpectedly for no apparent reason. However, during my recent 350 mile trip back from FL to North GA, I noticed that while "stable", the pressure seemed to be ever so slowly dropping to the 1/4 area of the meter. I checked the oil level at every stop and it was never more than 1/2 quart from full. It did seem somewhat "black" given that I changed it and filter about 1,200 miles ago. Also, it seemed the oil was somewhat "channeling" on the dipstick... hard to explain, but it wasn't 100% coating the dipstick like I'd normally expect and seemed like wouldn't "stick" to it. Anyway, there wasn't any foaminess that would seem to indicate water in it... and I've never used any oil additives.
What can cause reduction in oil pressure? After sitting, it seems normal for a while after start-up but then tends to drop. It is possible there is some kind of "sludge" clogging something? The tranny repair guy told me that some oils contain unacceptable amounts of paraffin (a WAX)... told me to never use Quaker State and that he recommended Valvoline. He was "amused" when I told him I use the Walmart brand... Tech or something in the blue bottle. Of course, I'll change the oil THIS week... is that likely to resolve any problems? What else can cause loss of oil pressure? From what I can tell the engine seals are OK since there are never any "puddles" underneath.
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1999 F250 LD with 5.4 w/ 225k miles... Was running perfect yesterday when I shut the engine off. Started back up about 20 minutes later and Idles was up and down and rough.( 400 - 900 rpms) Drove and ran fine except Idle. I know that those codes are for the o2 sensors but don't believe they're bad. I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere behind throttle body. Either IAC or EGR or it could be coming from the line that runs in beside the IAC valve to the air intake in front of the throttle body. Tried spraying water in those areas with no results. Could it be a bad EGR valve or a stuck IAC valve? I have also noticed that lately when I start the engine the engine rpms go up to 2k before dropping down. Would a bad IAC valve cause such rough idling along with the codes that I described?
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RPM's are dropping way off when coasting downhill while towing (as if the motor shut down), CC is on and maintaining desired speed. When at the bottom of the hill, all of a sudden, with a big bang(in the motor) the rpm's have came back up and you drive on down the road as normal. This seems to happen only when towing. "99 F250 7.3 I haven't pulled any codes as of yet. Whats happening?
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So I finally got to drive my Tig 4Mo in the snow for the first time and I had some really interesting experiences. On 4 separate occasions the rear end decided to just break loose on me!
The first time I was going downhill and I had the car in auto stick and kept it in 2nd so I wouldn't have to use the brakes and im rolling along the rear starts swinging left! I counter and recover and thought ok well maybe auto stick isn't good in the snow. So I keep it in "D" for the rest of the drive and I'm chugging along no faster than 25 mph on a flat and there she goes again to the right this time... I let off the gas and counter again this time I notice the TCS start flashing as I'm recovering...
Its weird cause I wasn't on the gas anymore unlike with my 01 jetta which would only flash if I was actually accelerating....so this happens 2 more times along the way. Every time it happend I wasn't on the gas hard and I was able to recover but I'm extremely confused as to why this would EVER happen. I've driven many awd cars before in the snow and NEVER has the rear just jumped out on me without me REALLY trying to break the rear loose and it usually required a sharp turn of the wheel to do so. I was driving straight as an arrow every time she broke loose and I was barely on the gas (and not even on the gas the first time). Am I going crazy or is the something wrong with my Tig?
On a side note my TPM light is on (but all tires are fine) maybe this is bugging the computer out or something?
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Grill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
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I have a 1994 dodge ram 2 wheel drive with a 318. Idles fine but when put under a load it starts surging and bucking at about 1500 rpms. Idles at 1500 no problem only under a load...
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