Dodge - D150 :: 1991 - Leaking Freeze Plug Right Behind The Starter
Jul 12, 2015
91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
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I developed a freeze plug leak while driving into town in my 1991 Aerostar with the 3.0 liter engine. Got to Schuck's (my destination) and bought some antifreeze, noted where the leak was and filled up the coolant system.
Drove a few miles to the mechanic's house. Coolant blowing out everywhere, obviously boiling off. Let it cool down while going over an estimate for repair. Topped it off one more time and went home. Have not moved it since.
There is sludge, almost like thick foam, that I suspect is what's left of coolant that has had the water mostly removed. It is the same color as the coolant - bright orange-ish green. Will a few flushes with fresh water clear this out of the system?
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2000 Dodge Neon having issues with freeze plugs falling out. Have replaced at least four freeze plugs over the last year and a half. Is there a solution to avoid constant replacement? Neon has about 135,000 miles. There is no warning when a plug is about to fall. Research shows freeze plug issues are not isolated to the Neon and perhaps copper plugs are the answer.
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My Dodge 150 truck starts missing at about 45 mph. It seems to only do this after it has warmed up for about 20 minutes.
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I have a '79 D100 that needs a new distributor. I've removed the two necessary bolts that I know of. I've tried to twist it, and will will barely turn. I've tried to pry it up. I've loosened a few bolts in the area to see if that relieved pressure. I've degreased the area and sprayed WD40 at the base of it and still nothing.
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I have a 1984 dodge d150 ramcharger i just bought and it has all sorts of problems I am trying to fix as part of a learning process for me. One problem is it squeals when i first start it when i get on the gas. The faster the rpms the louder the squeal...
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Having trouble with my truck not charging. Changed out alternator, v/r and battery and still will not charge.
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Purchased a new-to-us 1st gen dodge pickup, a 92 D150 v6. It's used once or twice a week at max and only has around 90k miles on it.
So a few months after we bought the truck, it stalled, or more like choked, out while driving on these country, hilly roads, at around 50 mph.. it happened once and we didn't think much of it. It happened again not too long after that, though, and we discovered we could push through the stall/choke by giving it a lot of gas.. it sounds terrible, and shakes and sputters, but eventually catches back and starts to run normal.
As months passed, the problem happened more often. So we changed the spark plugs and wires recently. No difference. In a given 40 minute trip along 45-55 mph country roads, the truck will choke and sputter at least 5 or 6 times. It's now so bad that sometimes giving it gas isn't enough to fix the issue and we have to pull over.
We've got an appt scheduled with a mechanic, Our friends think maybe it has to do with the choke plate or carburetor. It seems to happen more often if the AC is on, and other than this, the truck runs great. It starts up fast and idles fine.
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I have a 63 dodge pickup with a habit of burning out ignition coils within 2 weeks. It's happened with the slant 6 motor, it's happened with the 318 v8 and its also happened with the current motor a 440. I have changed the ballast resistor, and the ignition switch, as well as the starter solenoid, and all related wiring.
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I bought a dodge d150 a month ago. when i bought it, the lights work fine. one night i pulled out the headlight switch to turn the lights on, and the headlights came on, but no parking/running lights came on, and the back lighting didn't come on. if i sit there and jiggle the switch between off and where the original "notch" for the parking lights were, i can get them to come on intermittently. but they turn off as soon as i let go of the knob. all the other lights work, headlights, directional, hazards, reverse lights, cargo light...
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We bought a 2012 Passat from a VW dealer on Thursday, and my wife took it out of town that day. After sitting outside in a hotel parking lot for 2 days, the car would not start. This is Wisconsin, so air temp -10f and windchill -30. When you turn the key, there was a "click", but the engine did not turn over. The battery was not dead (lights, accessories worked), but the tow truck driver did attempt to jump it just in case. He ended up towing it to the shop, and parking it inside. After 2 hours, it started just fine. Needless to say... not the best way to start life with a new car.
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Had a couple bad freeze plugs that made my old 91 D150 with a 318 overheat severely. The truck is repaired but does smoke a little more than it used to at start-up and lasts a little longer. Also when stopped at traffic lights, It will belch a puff upon acceleration. Did the overheat affect oil condition and should I just go ahead and change it? Should I run some Marvel Mystery Oil through it before the change to maybe (hopefully) loosen up the piston rings? I know the valve guide seals are due for replacement but that's another project down the road. I've decided not to do anything with the fuel filter on the Camry...
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1990 Dodge Ram Van.... How hard is this to fix. Some Guys in Los Banos took two days to replace a fuel pump. End result, new pump not grounded so continually drains battery unless I mess with a fuse everytime I start/stop car.
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My truck started running a little rough so I replaced plugs, wires (looks like a rat may have nibbled them in places), cap and rotor. The truck idles smoother now but there had been kind of a lurching, almost as though it was bogging down then recovering prior to replacing the parts I have done. Now the issue seems worse, if anything. It seems to be either progressive. If I try to drive the truck like this, it's OK once it's going, though it still sort of hesitates periodically. Getting it going, however, is an exercise in frustration.
It's got virtually no power at all and isn't until it surges forward (recovering?) that it goes at all. I realize this may not be the best description but it's about all I can describe it as. The other oddity is it seems intermittent. Sometimes it'll run flawlessly after warming up, others it doesn't. Today, it ran perfectly for 30 to 40 seconds after first starting it to move between parking spots then it began while driving it. I'm concerned about driving as I don't want to cause damage to the engine and also, it's annoying a heck!
The truck's a 1989 Dodge D100 (not D150 as below; why no D100 option?) with the 318, AT and RWD only with about 225,000 miles on it. Historically, it runs without any issues whatsoever, starts instantly every time I ask it to (even now) and overall is great mechanically. (Ugly as heck but its' a truck!) The only issue I've had with it is recently, the coolant overflow hose came off right by the cap and, apparently, I lost enough coolant to overheat. I noticed the temp gauge registering hot and as I pulled over I got quite a cloud of steam.
It must have heated enough to hit the flash point, I guess. This happened on the freeway but I stopped IMMEDIATELY and it was fine once I put the hose back on and got coolant in it. The engine didn't stall or act up, make noises, etc. That was a month or so ago now. Aside from that and needing the brakes done recently (can't imagine that could be related but who knows) the truck hasn't showed any issues at all. Someone mentioned this could be the Idle Air Control motor but my reading suggests that'd only affect me at idle. Am I mistaken or is there something else I should be looking at?
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I have a '95 Chevy K1500 5.7 and am wanting to install a freeze plug block heater, but I'm having problems knocking out the existing freeze plug and would like some hints. It is located directly behind the oil filter, so I'm having problems getting enough leverage.
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I have a 94 Camry left to me by my father inlaw when he died a year ago. I notice antifreeze coming from a weep hole just above one of the alternator mounting brackets. Whats involved with replacing the water pump and timing belt? Im guessing thats what it is and while I am in there I will replace the timing belt as I dont believe either have been replaced. The car has about 160,000 miles on it. I kept my Windstar going for about 250,000 miles before my daughter wrapped it around a tree so Im sure its something I can handle. The problem is time as we are getting into winter. Is it a major job or something that can be done in a few hours?
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Mine has a 4.0 V6, the freeze plugs are leaking coolant, the guy at the shop said it will require pulling the engine to replace them. Is there an easy ( less expensive ) fix ? I was told I could use block sealer, is that an option? She has appox.160,000 miles...
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Ok my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
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M y 90 aero 3.0 heads are leaking front and back freeze plugs. I think back ones are pretty accessible from inside. How hard to change it . I changed block plugs. What size are head plugs?.
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I have a 91 RS 3.1 with a 5 speed that is not starting.
The problem started with the key not engaging the starter at all, a friend who is much better at electrical and we found the security relay switch behind the kick panel is not engaging on it's own. we manually engaged the switch and now the key will spin the starter but the engine is not firing up only spinning.
does the security relay switch control anything other than the starter engaging.
There is gas in the car. using a screwdriver and spark plug wire we have verified that we are getting spark.
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1991 Vanagon GL-Ok, first off my gas gauge was inoperable so we traced it down to the sending unit. Disconnected the battery, drained the tank, dropped the tank and replaced the sending unit and all the fuel lines, seals, etc. In the meantime we also replaced the starter while it was up. Gassed her up, tried to start it. Nothing. Lifted it up again, checked the starter unit to see if it was getting a current, no current. Went to the fuse box, tested the fuses, all is good. Went to the battery and tested it, it was producing a current. Thought we might have moved, hit, loosen something when putting the gas tank back in so we lowered the tank to see if there was anything loose, disconnected, etc. Nothing. Reinstalled the tank. Went to the engine compartment and tested the alternator, no juice. Damn. Traced the wiring from the battery to the engine and test the battery cable, no juice in the harness by the gas tank. Went to the front of the van, took out the drivers headlight and tested the lines there. There is a long green object like a capacitor or something with three wired running to it, tested it no juice flowing through it. Tested a connection before the long green object and there is juice there. Is it the long green thing? Do I need to call in the Witches of Warwick to de-demonize it?
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