Dodge - D150 :: 1990 - Parking Lights Won't Turn On
Aug 24, 2012
I bought a dodge d150 a month ago. when i bought it, the lights work fine. one night i pulled out the headlight switch to turn the lights on, and the headlights came on, but no parking/running lights came on, and the back lighting didn't come on. if i sit there and jiggle the switch between off and where the original "notch" for the parking lights were, i can get them to come on intermittently. but they turn off as soon as i let go of the knob. all the other lights work, headlights, directional, hazards, reverse lights, cargo light...
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1990 Dodge Ram Van.... How hard is this to fix. Some Guys in Los Banos took two days to replace a fuel pump. End result, new pump not grounded so continually drains battery unless I mess with a fuse everytime I start/stop car.
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My Dodge 150 truck starts missing at about 45 mph. It seems to only do this after it has warmed up for about 20 minutes.
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I have a '79 D100 that needs a new distributor. I've removed the two necessary bolts that I know of. I've tried to twist it, and will will barely turn. I've tried to pry it up. I've loosened a few bolts in the area to see if that relieved pressure. I've degreased the area and sprayed WD40 at the base of it and still nothing.
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I have a 1984 dodge d150 ramcharger i just bought and it has all sorts of problems I am trying to fix as part of a learning process for me. One problem is it squeals when i first start it when i get on the gas. The faster the rpms the louder the squeal...
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Having trouble with my truck not charging. Changed out alternator, v/r and battery and still will not charge.
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Purchased a new-to-us 1st gen dodge pickup, a 92 D150 v6. It's used once or twice a week at max and only has around 90k miles on it.
So a few months after we bought the truck, it stalled, or more like choked, out while driving on these country, hilly roads, at around 50 mph.. it happened once and we didn't think much of it. It happened again not too long after that, though, and we discovered we could push through the stall/choke by giving it a lot of gas.. it sounds terrible, and shakes and sputters, but eventually catches back and starts to run normal.
As months passed, the problem happened more often. So we changed the spark plugs and wires recently. No difference. In a given 40 minute trip along 45-55 mph country roads, the truck will choke and sputter at least 5 or 6 times. It's now so bad that sometimes giving it gas isn't enough to fix the issue and we have to pull over.
We've got an appt scheduled with a mechanic, Our friends think maybe it has to do with the choke plate or carburetor. It seems to happen more often if the AC is on, and other than this, the truck runs great. It starts up fast and idles fine.
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I have a 63 dodge pickup with a habit of burning out ignition coils within 2 weeks. It's happened with the slant 6 motor, it's happened with the 318 v8 and its also happened with the current motor a 440. I have changed the ballast resistor, and the ignition switch, as well as the starter solenoid, and all related wiring.
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91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
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Had a couple bad freeze plugs that made my old 91 D150 with a 318 overheat severely. The truck is repaired but does smoke a little more than it used to at start-up and lasts a little longer. Also when stopped at traffic lights, It will belch a puff upon acceleration. Did the overheat affect oil condition and should I just go ahead and change it? Should I run some Marvel Mystery Oil through it before the change to maybe (hopefully) loosen up the piston rings? I know the valve guide seals are due for replacement but that's another project down the road. I've decided not to do anything with the fuel filter on the Camry...
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My truck started running a little rough so I replaced plugs, wires (looks like a rat may have nibbled them in places), cap and rotor. The truck idles smoother now but there had been kind of a lurching, almost as though it was bogging down then recovering prior to replacing the parts I have done. Now the issue seems worse, if anything. It seems to be either progressive. If I try to drive the truck like this, it's OK once it's going, though it still sort of hesitates periodically. Getting it going, however, is an exercise in frustration.
It's got virtually no power at all and isn't until it surges forward (recovering?) that it goes at all. I realize this may not be the best description but it's about all I can describe it as. The other oddity is it seems intermittent. Sometimes it'll run flawlessly after warming up, others it doesn't. Today, it ran perfectly for 30 to 40 seconds after first starting it to move between parking spots then it began while driving it. I'm concerned about driving as I don't want to cause damage to the engine and also, it's annoying a heck!
The truck's a 1989 Dodge D100 (not D150 as below; why no D100 option?) with the 318, AT and RWD only with about 225,000 miles on it. Historically, it runs without any issues whatsoever, starts instantly every time I ask it to (even now) and overall is great mechanically. (Ugly as heck but its' a truck!) The only issue I've had with it is recently, the coolant overflow hose came off right by the cap and, apparently, I lost enough coolant to overheat. I noticed the temp gauge registering hot and as I pulled over I got quite a cloud of steam.
It must have heated enough to hit the flash point, I guess. This happened on the freeway but I stopped IMMEDIATELY and it was fine once I put the hose back on and got coolant in it. The engine didn't stall or act up, make noises, etc. That was a month or so ago now. Aside from that and needing the brakes done recently (can't imagine that could be related but who knows) the truck hasn't showed any issues at all. Someone mentioned this could be the Idle Air Control motor but my reading suggests that'd only affect me at idle. Am I mistaken or is there something else I should be looking at?
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Came home after a run to mcdonalds in my chysler and the 1997 dodge caravan that we own was in driveway running with parking lights on the van doors locked.
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Just picked up a 1999 F-150 XL, 4.2L V6, 5-Speed. Spent half the day rewiring the headlights back to factory as a previous owner did a bunch of wiring that made absolutely no sense. (Foglights or KC lights?). Anyway, works great with the exception that the headlights turn on when I turn the selector to just parking lights. I removed all but the factory wires under the hood. I haven't been behind the dash yet to check the headlight switch and I was hoping to avoid doing so. A fuse or relay that may be causing the issue? I don't have a service manual yet so I haven't been able to identify all the fuses under the hood.
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2012 camry se my question is can I make the fog lights turn on with my parking ligths ???can it be done and how
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So the switch is pretty basic, only on or off! ahha. Is there some other way to just have everything but the headlights running? aka parking lights?
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You can turn parking lights on on left or right side via the turn signal feature. I can't see a way to turn all parking lights on. What am I missing?
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I have a 2007 Passat 2.0T Wolfsburg Edition. I have yet to figure out how to turn on the just the parking lights. Is this even possible? This is my first VW and my first foreign car .. so I'm not used to all the "quirks" yet. SO far I really LOVE my car though.
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I recently bought a used '07 vw rabbit, and today when I tried to use my parking lights, I could not find any way to turn them on. I called the dealer later, and was told the rabbit does not have "parking lights". What should I use when I want to pull off the roadway briefly, etc. and why did they not put parking lights on this car? Is this a new trend?
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I changed the bulbs from the stock to LED then the error light was showing so I decided to switch back the stock lights (I did this while the lights were on).
And now my city lights will not turn on at all! It is a fuse that is causing this problem?
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My wife has a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with about 75K miles and the rear parking lights will not turn off after I turn the car off and make sure all illumination is set to the off position. It completely drained her battery over night. I have done some research on here and think it is probably a relay in the engine compartment fuse box. Whenever I pull the STOP LP 15 Amp fuse (listed on page 7-57 in the manual) the lights finally turn off but that's obviously a temporary fix since I won't be able to convince my wife to do that every time she turns the car off.
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I have 2007 Hyundai Sonata SE V6, 72k. Out of warranty. Problem is parking lights does not turn off when I turn off the car and take the key out. I have to play with the switch from On to Auto many times in order to turn them off. Sounds like stuck relay. I also have "auto switch off" feature which is supposed to turn off everything when I open the driver’s door AND the key is out. This does not turn off the lights as well. Lately it is very difficult to turn them off, especially when the car has been running for some time. Brake switch as per the recall has been changed in the past.
I went to the dealership, paid $110 for diagnostics and they said I need to replace the junction fuse box in the engine compartment - I found such a box for less and replaced it myself. Problem still exist. After reading some more online, the forums said that the parking relay is integrated in the other junction/fuse box – the one under the left front dash (91950-3K560).
Can this box be opened and fixed? Is there another solution other than replacing the fuse box?
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