1990 Dodge Ram Van.... How hard is this to fix. Some Guys in Los Banos took two days to replace a fuel pump. End result, new pump not grounded so continually drains battery unless I mess with a fuse everytime I start/stop car.
View 2 RepliesI bought a dodge d150 a month ago. when i bought it, the lights work fine. one night i pulled out the headlight switch to turn the lights on, and the headlights came on, but no parking/running lights came on, and the back lighting didn't come on. if i sit there and jiggle the switch between off and where the original "notch" for the parking lights were, i can get them to come on intermittently. but they turn off as soon as i let go of the knob. all the other lights work, headlights, directional, hazards, reverse lights, cargo light...
View 4 Repliesok, i just became the proud owner of a 71 dodge dart.. fuel pump was not working, and am converting to an electric (airtex e8016s) and am told i need a relay. airtex doesn't seem to have one, is there another i can use? fairly new at this sort of thing, but have fixed a 72 honda motorbike, so not afraid of engines or whatnot.
View 19 RepliesI have 1990 dodge caravan v6, i checked to see if i got power to the fuel pump and there no power going
View 4 RepliesMy Dodge 150 truck starts missing at about 45 mph. It seems to only do this after it has warmed up for about 20 minutes.
View 1 RepliesI have a '79 D100 that needs a new distributor. I've removed the two necessary bolts that I know of. I've tried to twist it, and will will barely turn. I've tried to pry it up. I've loosened a few bolts in the area to see if that relieved pressure. I've degreased the area and sprayed WD40 at the base of it and still nothing.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1984 dodge d150 ramcharger i just bought and it has all sorts of problems I am trying to fix as part of a learning process for me. One problem is it squeals when i first start it when i get on the gas. The faster the rpms the louder the squeal...
View 3 RepliesHaving trouble with my truck not charging. Changed out alternator, v/r and battery and still will not charge.
View 19 RepliesPurchased a new-to-us 1st gen dodge pickup, a 92 D150 v6. It's used once or twice a week at max and only has around 90k miles on it.
So a few months after we bought the truck, it stalled, or more like choked, out while driving on these country, hilly roads, at around 50 mph.. it happened once and we didn't think much of it. It happened again not too long after that, though, and we discovered we could push through the stall/choke by giving it a lot of gas.. it sounds terrible, and shakes and sputters, but eventually catches back and starts to run normal.
As months passed, the problem happened more often. So we changed the spark plugs and wires recently. No difference. In a given 40 minute trip along 45-55 mph country roads, the truck will choke and sputter at least 5 or 6 times. It's now so bad that sometimes giving it gas isn't enough to fix the issue and we have to pull over.
We've got an appt scheduled with a mechanic, Our friends think maybe it has to do with the choke plate or carburetor. It seems to happen more often if the AC is on, and other than this, the truck runs great. It starts up fast and idles fine.
Will it be easier for me to drop the tank or to take off the bed of the truck does a 1990 F350 7.5 liter dual tank gas
View 1 RepliesI have a 63 dodge pickup with a habit of burning out ignition coils within 2 weeks. It's happened with the slant 6 motor, it's happened with the 318 v8 and its also happened with the current motor a 440. I have changed the ballast resistor, and the ignition switch, as well as the starter solenoid, and all related wiring.
View 4 Replies91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
Had a couple bad freeze plugs that made my old 91 D150 with a 318 overheat severely. The truck is repaired but does smoke a little more than it used to at start-up and lasts a little longer. Also when stopped at traffic lights, It will belch a puff upon acceleration. Did the overheat affect oil condition and should I just go ahead and change it? Should I run some Marvel Mystery Oil through it before the change to maybe (hopefully) loosen up the piston rings? I know the valve guide seals are due for replacement but that's another project down the road. I've decided not to do anything with the fuel filter on the Camry...
View 1 RepliesMy truck started running a little rough so I replaced plugs, wires (looks like a rat may have nibbled them in places), cap and rotor. The truck idles smoother now but there had been kind of a lurching, almost as though it was bogging down then recovering prior to replacing the parts I have done. Now the issue seems worse, if anything. It seems to be either progressive. If I try to drive the truck like this, it's OK once it's going, though it still sort of hesitates periodically. Getting it going, however, is an exercise in frustration.
It's got virtually no power at all and isn't until it surges forward (recovering?) that it goes at all. I realize this may not be the best description but it's about all I can describe it as. The other oddity is it seems intermittent. Sometimes it'll run flawlessly after warming up, others it doesn't. Today, it ran perfectly for 30 to 40 seconds after first starting it to move between parking spots then it began while driving it. I'm concerned about driving as I don't want to cause damage to the engine and also, it's annoying a heck!
The truck's a 1989 Dodge D100 (not D150 as below; why no D100 option?) with the 318, AT and RWD only with about 225,000 miles on it. Historically, it runs without any issues whatsoever, starts instantly every time I ask it to (even now) and overall is great mechanically. (Ugly as heck but its' a truck!) The only issue I've had with it is recently, the coolant overflow hose came off right by the cap and, apparently, I lost enough coolant to overheat. I noticed the temp gauge registering hot and as I pulled over I got quite a cloud of steam.
It must have heated enough to hit the flash point, I guess. This happened on the freeway but I stopped IMMEDIATELY and it was fine once I put the hose back on and got coolant in it. The engine didn't stall or act up, make noises, etc. That was a month or so ago now. Aside from that and needing the brakes done recently (can't imagine that could be related but who knows) the truck hasn't showed any issues at all. Someone mentioned this could be the Idle Air Control motor but my reading suggests that'd only affect me at idle. Am I mistaken or is there something else I should be looking at?
My 98 dodge ram 2500 was running and now the gauges don't work and the fuel pump isn't working either, I have checked and replaced fuses and relays with no luck ...
View 3 RepliesI've got the 2.4 L DHC 97 Stratus, 4 cylinder. I just finished a head gasket job and now I'm getting a crank, no start condition. I noticed I was getting no fuel pressure at the rail and when checking the 4 pin connector to the fuel pump in the trunk, I'm getting 0 volts when cranking. I ordered new fuel pump and ASD relays, though I did the tests in the Haynes manual and the ones I have seem good. All of this stuff was working before I took everything apart. I've checked around for obvious electrical connections or ground wires I missed hooking back up, but can't find anything. l am getting spark, so I think that means my crank and cam sensors are working. I'm stuck on this one.
View 9 RepliesI have a '96 Dodge Stratus that keeps blowing fuse #20, which is for the fuel pump and the ignition. How to isolate the problem? This happens as soon as the key is turned on. The car has 140,000 miles and runs excellent otherwise.
View 3 Replies1996 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 L engine. When the outside temp is a good range (50 degrees F & above) there is no problem starting. But when it gets below 40 deg. F and really chilly outside temp, I still have strong battery power, but when I switch on the ignition, I don't hear the normal fuel pump activation swirl sound and does not crank - simply silent click. Then I can wait when the outside temp improves and cranks up no problem.
View 6 RepliesIntermittent fuel pump problems in '96 Dodge ram resulted in new fuel pump 50,000 miles ago. Happened again 100 miles ago, so another new fuel pump. Now to start car must turn the ignition on several times before going to the start position. It appears the latest new pump may have defective one way check valve, so the pressure is depleting after turn off. Any favorite brand of fuel pump for the Dodge "pump in the gas tank" arrangement? Or solutions such as installing an external pump to do the work of pumping the fuel?
View 1 RepliesI just replaced fuel pump and tps on my 1989 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl truck. Now it idles rough and the check engine light came on. I have removed battery cable to reset computer but did no good. What could be the problem now? I have since replaced the plug wires and distrib cap and it is flashing 3 5 5 twice now?
View 10 RepliesMy '90 E250, open road, mini motorhome , says on the radiator mount , that there is a Fuel shutoff switch that may have been activated.... I don't have the manual for it, so I need finding the switch, so I can reset it ....The vehicle sometimes starts after about 2 mins with the ignition on, but today won't start, even after a longer wait. Both tanks are full...Fuel gauge not working , in either front or rear position. I can hear the rear pump,in the tank, but can not hear the front one....When I bought it last year, it ran fine after waiting to start, and both positions worked , no stalling , or shutdown.Came home about 95 miles, and it's been parked almost all the time since. I want to start it up weekly , but am having that same problem ...Today was the first time I could see the Fuel Pump Shutoff warning ...but can 't find the darn switch to try resetting .....
View 1 Replies