Dodge - Caravan - Van :: Jingley Noise When Went Over 35 Mph
Jul 9, 2011
I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan. I drive very little locally - usually just a couple of miles a week. But every couple of months I drive an hour and a half away to THE BIG CITY. Last week I took such a trip, and coming home I noticed my van was making a "jingley" noise. Just like the sleigh bells in the barn. With the windows open I can't tell where the noise is coming from. And it isn't associated with the a/c, since the a/c was off when the noise started.
Since then when I take my little local trips it only made the noise once - when I went over 35 mph. Usually drive slower locally. So, I don't know whether the problem is associated with length of drive time or speed, but I'm thinking it's associated with a higher speed.
Yes, I have an apt. with a mechanic, but I can't get in to see him until the middle of next week.
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My front suspension has been making some noise for a while now, and lately has been getting worse. So I want to replace whatever the problem is, but having trouble figuring it out. Everything looks ok, and the methods I researched aren't giving any clues. The one question I Have is, should I be able to move any of the parts by hand? There are two that I can wiggle back and forth pretty easily, but I don't know if this is normal or not. One is a thin vertical piece parallel to the strut, the other is behind the wheel and low in the back (a tie rod?). Don't know the part names, have worked on my vehicles for a long time but never the suspension.
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I have an engine noise on my 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 engine. It sounds a lot like the grinding of a rotating part. It occurs at start up, momentarily, then goes away. If I drop it in gear and start doing low speed maneuvering in the driveway, it comes back. If I turn on the AC it comes back. In all cases, the noise goes away at around 1200 rpm.
The noise occurs again, when I shut the engine down.The engine performs and runs smooth and normal otherwise. No stalling, stumbling, or bad gas mileage to report.
I can "feel" the noise with my hand, when I put my hand on the ac compressor bracket, or the intake manifold, or the valve cover. I've tried the listening through the stick method, and it seems to be coming from the front area of the engine. But I can't be sure. It is something internal. Let me describe:
I thought it was my AC compressor or clutch going bad. The fact that my AC had stopped working well, and was making jet engine noises at high rpm supported me decide this. I replaced the compressor. The AC works great now, and the jet engine noises went away. But the grinding noise is still there. As described.
I wishfully thought it was the belt tensioner or idler pulley. I replaced both of those. Noise still was there. I pulled off the serpentine belt, and started the engine. It made the noise, very briefly as it started, then went away completely. It made the noise again briefly as I shut the motor off. So it's still there without any of the accessories turning.
The noise is loud and obnoxious at idle when under load. It just can't be good. I've read theories about similar sounding problems, saying they could be loose timing chain, bad oil pump, slapping pistons, crank journals, flexplate/flywheels cracked.
I'm going to try doing an oil system flush, and then I'll change it out with a little thicker oil. See if that makes any difference in the noise. Currently I'm running 5w-30 Mobile 1. I think. I'll let you know if it changes anything. I'm also thinking I want to make a short video of the car idling and making the noise for my video camera. I'll post that on youtube and link it here.
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Very loud timing chain noise in my Mitsubishi 2.6 engine. It has 105k miles on it. I ordered a new complete timing chain kit and oil pump from an online autoparts store. The parts arrived here and scheduled an appointment to have those parts put in today. While driving the van to the repair shop, it broke down about 4 miles from my house. I started to lose power on the highway then a loud screeching noise, similar sound to a belt going bad or slipping. The temp gauge started to climb rapidly. I immediately shut off the van and pulled over. It was towed back home and wouldn't restart. Battery was weak. I charged the battery for three hours and the van started again. This time it runs incredibly rough. The whole van shakes badly when in gear (also the loud timing chain noise). I also noticed an oil leak on the ground on the passenger side, in the area of the timing chain/oil pump area.
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I have an intermittent brake noise, which sounds like rubber rubbing against rubber. There is no discernable effect on the brakes, pulling, etc. My mechanic can find noting wrong with the brakes.
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Sone water from the air conditioner drains on the carpet on the right side of the car. The drain hose is open and water in draining from it. Where could I look to find the problem? It is a 2003 caravan
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We recently had some oil leaks fixed on my wife's 2002 Dodge Caravan. The oil light comes on whenever she stops at a stoplight. It seems like it comes on when the RPM drops to about 600 or 700 RPM and then goes off when RPM increases. Is this something to worry about? If so what needs to be fixed?
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I just had all 6 fuel injectors changed as they were rusted. But the 4 and 6 are still miss firing. I am going through gas more than I should. I had the EGR replaced as it was stuck open. I do not want to pour more big money into this thing. What can I do. Sea foam is not working. Could it be another problem. I am starting not to trust the mechanics.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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My van went from drive to 3rd gear while i was driving. and now its stuck in 3rd gear. its a 98 dodge caravan. i checked the transmission fluid it was full. how do i fix it?
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan that started experiencing engine whining and some leaking. I went to my local mechanic thinking it was the water pump and told them as such. They dutifully replaced the water pump but that didn't stop the whining.
I took it back after Sandy and Athena and they now say the steering rack needed to be replaced and was leaking badly as well.
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I have a 1990 Dodge Caravan complete with collector plates. I bought new bulbs to replace the burnt out map reading lights, but how to open the enclosure for the lights. There are no screws and no obvious places to pry open.
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I have a 2001dodge caravan that I can't seem to get the engine temp up on. I've replaced the thermostat and the coolant temp sensor and topped off the coolant. It raised the heat to the first line but once the vehicle is being driven the temp drops to 0 and heater blows cold. During the summer the vehicle runs at normal temp. Have disconnected the ambient temp sensor which did nothing to better or worsen the problem.
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My 96 caravan started misfiring and then it clears ..and then it misfires.. if I get on the highway it clears after a mile or so.. and stays running smooth till I stop and shut it of , thought i got water in the tank but that was 2000 Miles ago ....it's old but it's My work truck...
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My 1997 Caravan 3.0 acts as if the EGR Valve needs to be cleaned. Where is the EGR Valve?
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For about a week I started smelling gas. Checks things out and didn't see anything until today. It is the lone on top of the tank where the plastic piece (fuel pump?) connects to the hose. What is the size? The auto store has three generic replacements but said they don't know what size mine would be. Otherwise I have to take it off and bring it in and try to eyeball it. Not sure what the part is called, but is looks like some two piece clip.
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I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan with just over 50,000 miles on it. This summer It started having this issue where when I turned the key, all I got was a click, and then nothing. The starter wouldn't turn over, but all other electronics seemed to be working properly. If I continued to try turning the key (2 or 3 times) eventually the starter would engage and the car would start right up. Assuming a bad connection somewhere I cleaned the battery posts, and a couple other connections I could get to, and the problem seemed to go away. About a month later the same issue started up again, and I was able to fix it the same way.
About a month and a half ago, I went to start my car, turned the key, and NO click. After turning the key a couple times the car would start as before. Then the next time I tried to start the car I again got nothing. On the third try the starter turned over, but only a few times before it died (and it sounded like it was really struggling to turn over too). The fourth time I turned the key the car started right up. This new behavior continued for about a week and then I took it into the shop.
At the shop they first started by cleaning all the connections, which did nothing. Next they put in a new starter which also didn't fix the problem. On the off chance the new starter was bad, they tried a second new starter, and again the problem continued. Finally they pulled out the wiring harness and found 3 "Bad wires" which they replaced. The then also concluded that the bad wires were causes the starter to short out, and that is why the two new starters they tried didn't work. They gave me a new starter, and that in conjunction with the new wires seemed to fix the problem.
Now, every few weeks, I'll go to turn the key, and all I'll get is a click again. The second time i turn the key, however, the car will start right up. This issue maybe happens more when its cold in the morning, but it hasn't happened enough for me to be sure. The clicking issue doesn't bother me that much because the car always starts, but I'm worried that the problem will just get worse again. Did my mechanic actually fix the problem I had? Or am I going to need to take it back in to the shop in a couple of months and put another new starter in? Also, I have had my battery tested three times throughout all of this, and it always comes back fine.
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I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan. When I put my turn signal on all the dashboard lights fail and the gauges drop as if the van was powered off. After a couple seconds they come back on, then the seat belt reminder ding goes off. I've tried things like replacing fuses, checking the headlights and seeing if a wire or bulb was the issue. Found some wiring in the passenger side seat belt panel and thought that may have been the issue. The blinkers were working for a bit.
Recently they began failing again and so I've just messed with any wire I could find; maybe there's a poor connection or something. I saw some other discussion posted on blinkers and my hazard lights seem to have something to do with this; occasionally if I press the hazard lights the gauges will react slightly; they jump up a little. It's a hit and miss; sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. I feel very unsafe and would hate to be responsible for someone rear-ending me because my blinkers didn't work.
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a couple of weeks ago, when it was about -15 here, my car started acting strange. In the morning after I started it I tried to shift into drive and it wouldn't engage. The same happened in reverse. I would shift into drive (or reverse) and it would not shift. I would put it in the park then shift back to drive and after a couple of times it worked. Once I am up and running it seems to be fine, it shifts up as it is supposed to when I am increasing speeds and it does not slip out of drive. I thought at first it was the cold, but has continued to happen - usually just in the mornings - even now that the weather has warmed up (!) to 20. The fluid seems fine according to the dip stick and the color of the fluid is pink and has a sweet smell, no burning smell. Could this be a first sign of bigger issues or something that can be taken care of with a fluid change or flush?
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I'm about to put a new tailgate on a 98 Dodge Caravan. I got hit in the back and I bought a new back door at the junk yard. It looks pretty easy, but I thought I would touch base here and there are a couple of potentially tricky parts...
Does that wire bundle have a block somewhere that you can plug, or am I going to be splicing them one by one? (I don't have power locks. I have windshield wiper, back door inside light, license plate light, heat wires in the glass.) The other tricky part..changing the lock.
I think that's all.. the bolts and star screws look pretty straightforward. I got it used with 48k miles a couple years ago and I only have 75k now. It was a government car.
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