Dodge - Caravan - Relay - Fans - Radiators :: 2000 - Cooling Fan Won't Turn On?
Mar 8, 2011
I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan that has 195,000 miles. My radiator fan won't turn on and I'm stumped! The issue presented itself with a check engine light and the radiator cooling fan not turning on. The trouble code indicated the cooling fan relay was faulty. In all cases below, I tested the radiator fan by turning on the air conditioning (thus forcing the cooling fans to run) and also for it to come up to a high temperature coming close to the danger zone.
1. Fuse - first tested the fuse and it was OK. Had to start with simple things first.
2. Cooling fan relay - I replaced the relay which has a reputation for failing on the Dodge. Still the fan did not kick in.
3. Cooling fans - tested the cooling fans and the motor was seized. Replaced the cooling fans and tested them by jumping them. The cooling fans still do not turn on. There is no voltage leaving the cooling fan relay and coming into the cooling fan harness.
4. Wiring - tested the wiring between the relay and the fans. They checked out OK (good continuity and resistance check). There is no voltage leaving the cooling fan relay. Now it's getting more complicated... I unplugged the wiring harness from the ECM and tested the wiring between the ECM and the cooling fan relay. A-OK.
5. ECM - it is unclear how to check the ECM for functionality of the cooling fan.
There are 3 wires (supply, ground, and switch wire?) The supply voltage and ground is good, but I don't know what voltage the switch wire should be. I've read that it is pulse width modulated so I can't measure this with a simple voltmeter. I've also read that the switch wire goes to ground thus triggering the relay. I don't know which is correct. Several mechanics I talked to were skeptical that the issue is with the ECM, they knew of very few instances of this being the culprit. I even replaced the new cooling fan relay with another new cooling fan relay on the off chance that the replacement was faulty. Did I miss something in my logic and diagnostics? I've resorted to wiring a switch directly to the cooling fans and toggling them on and off.
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I have a 1998 Caravan and the engine cooling fans wont go on. Ive replaced the relay and the temp sensor. When I pull the connector off the temp sensor the fans go on so I know the fans and fuses are fine. For some reason it seems the computer module isnt sending a signal to the relay to turn the fan on. I get the trouble codes P1491(radiator fan relay circuit fault) and P0118(engine coolant temp circuit high input).
I am also having a problem with the air conditioning not working. When I do the self diagnostic test on the A/C the results are that it fails the cool-down test. Why the computer module isn't sending a signal to the relay? Could the A/C problem be causing the cooling fans not to come on?
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2005 Dodge Neon SXT 206XXX
Long story short on a trip (about a 1 hr. drive) got about a block away from destination and gauge showed it was over heating. Stopped the car started up after five min. just fine. Got home replaced the thermostat and cap (old cap was junk). New cap was junk aftermarket so yesterday I took the same car on a half hour drive to get a Mopar cap ran just fine up again until a block away, pulled off the road turned it off let it set a few min. then didn't even show it was over heating. Let the pressure off and replaced the cap and added in a bit more coolant ran fine all the way back (even pushed speed in a few spots).
The above is just what seems to be the mechanical side of the issue. After noticing the gauge was going a bit above the normal spot I noticed my cooling fans are not coming on. Checked fuse and tested relays out to be fine. First thought is to check voltage to the fans but also tempted to check coolant temp sensor with bench test. Will be going over to my dads to do voltage testing later today.
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I have issues that are drivin me crazy. Cooling fans not coming on. I was driving and smelled antifreeze, I immediately looked at gauge was at 210. So I stopped to check, right side of radiator was split. Put new radiator in waterpump and thermostat. As the car was running during the flush process it started spewing so shut it down gauge was 210. Plugged in Modus ran codes were none for overheat. The cooling fans are not coming on while car is running, but I can turn them on with the with the modus so fuses and relays are all good. The one thing that puzzles me why it works with modus but not by itself. If that's not enough started a couple weeks ago sometimes when hitting bumps loose power to windows, radio, convertible top, and then hit a bump and it starts working again. I have been all under the dash and hood checking connections and grounds to no end.
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I have a 2004 Camry that the cooling fans won't turn on at all. I checked one of the cooling fans by running direct power and it worked. I then checked all the fuses relating to fans and A/C. Then checked relays by using the horn relay in Fan 1 and Fan 3, which are both 4 pin. I bought a new relay for Fan 2 as it was a 5 pin and still no change. The fans don't come on at any stage, turning on A/C or letting the car idle to the point of the water boiling from overflow. I'm thinking it's not the sensors as the fans should turn on when the A/C is turned on.
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Vehicle: 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 Litre
I also have my CE light on. Hooked up my reader and got the "P1491 Radiator Fan Control Relay" code. I have checked my rad fan fuse and it is okay. My attempt to locate the rad fan relay took me from the rad fan wire to a device that looks like a heat sink. It is located on the vehicle frame between the rad. and front grill. Is this the rad fan relay? If it is I'm not sure how I would replace it. It seems riveted to the frame.
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I drive two 1999 Caravans, a base model and a Sport. With both I have a persistent problem with moisture in the heating/cooling system. When I turn it on, it smells and feels moist (not like coolant), heat or A/C, summer or winter. I have pressure tested, no leaks. I have replaced heater cores, o ring seals, checked the condensate drains for blockages, replaced the metal tubes that go through the firewall on one car. There is no moisture coming from the outside. The windshield starts fogging at about 34 degrees and gets so bad when it is colder that the defroster full on with the A/C on cannot completely clear the inside glass. Really cold (for us) 20s and the windshield is so fogged that driving is scary. When I drive into a cold spot in winter, sometimes the whole windshield will fog in a few moments-- that's with the defroster on.
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My 03 Golf ac is not working and i am looking for a wiring diagram/ troubleshooting chart. the cooling fans turn on low and I hear the engine surging like the compressor is trying to cycle but it is not.. When I jump the low pressure switch the fans go to high and no power to the compressor. I get a flash of power to the compressor but just a blip every ten seconds. I am trying to check continuity of the ac clutch but having a difficult time getting in there hot. I just bought the car and fixed light body damage on the right front but it was not even bad enough to hurt the washer bottle. Hard to believe the hit caused damage to the ac? AC seems to be charged with about 100 psi static pressure. Why are diagrams so hard to find?
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I have a 2004 freestar that cooling fans come on when engine gets to temp but not when I turn on ac it has 5 relays for the cooling fans and they run in series and a dropping resistor. Ithink someone replaced #2 relay with the wrong one and has caused my problem because they did not know what they were doing...
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Cooling Fans and a/c compressor not working-2000 Grand Prix. They both work when I jumper them. Replaced coolant temperature sensor, checked fuses and relays -all good. Not sure what to troubleshoot from here.
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Few issues I am having with my 2004 Hyundai Accent GL Automatic 1.6 with 150k.
The first issue is the idle speed. The car idles between 1500 and 1800 RPM no matter if you just start it or if you drive it 200 miles. I have replaced the IAC valve, and that didn't change anything. I cant seem to find any vacuum leaks.
The second issue I am having is that the engine cooling fans do not come on when it gets up to temp.
I replaced the coolant temp sensor, and that didn't seem to work. I also tried swapping the relays, but nothing happened so I just pulled the relay for the cooling fan and ran a jumper wire so the fans run all the time while the car is running. It keeps the car cool, and I can drive it, but I want it to work right.
The third issue is that the car sometimes bogs out when you are pulling out or in traffic with the AC on. It almost sputters and hesitates when you try to go. It runs great at highway speeds. Could these issues all be tied together maybe the same problem?
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So my radiator fans were staying on until my battery died and my car was completely cooled down and off. I was told it was a sticking relay so I replaced it and the fans still won't come on. I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and the fans came on so I know its not the motors or anything.
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Intermittent problem, occurred 4 times during past 4 weeks, always during wet/rainy/damp weather. Three times when car was sitting overnight, once at work in parking lot after a 12 hour work shift. Each time, the engine started 5 or 6 times then died like someone turned the key off two seconds after the engine started. Then the engine would not crank or turn over, just some clicking near the relay box under the hood. Lights, power windows, etc. all work fine. Battery voltage OK. Jump starting or battery charger makes no difference. Note: With key in "run" position, no display to odometer though all idiot lights light up like normal.
1st time, after about 15-20 minutes, car started. 2nd time, towed to my mechanic (who thought security system lock out) then a second tow to dealer. Dealer found power into power distribution center but none out. Replaced PDC. Car worked fine for 1 week. Same problem twice since repair. First post repair failure I had van re-towed to dealer. Of course, it started for them. Left overnight 2 more nights. Started for them every time. They say it is a "problem with computers" but they don't know exactly what. They also say the Alarm set Dash light is coming on with the rest of the dash lights and that is a no-no. 2nd post repair failure happened this morning. Tried locking door to reset alarm. No change. Locked doors, opened rear hatch. Lights flashed but horn did not sound. When car is working and I do that (open hatch with other doors locked), in addition to lights flashing, horn beeps! I also disconnected the positive battery terminal, waited 10 minutes, reconnected and attempted restart. No change. Car still won't start and odometer display does not work.
Van has 110,000 miles. Otherwise in fantastic shape and runs great (though only gets about 20MPG). Owned van for 2 months and have driven about 7,000 miles. 1st problem I've encountered (other than a very uncomfortable drivers seat - feels like a spring is sprung!)
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I have a 2010 dodge avenger sxt replaced fans but won't turn I connected everything back together still nothing....
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I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan with just over 50,000 miles on it. This summer It started having this issue where when I turned the key, all I got was a click, and then nothing. The starter wouldn't turn over, but all other electronics seemed to be working properly. If I continued to try turning the key (2 or 3 times) eventually the starter would engage and the car would start right up. Assuming a bad connection somewhere I cleaned the battery posts, and a couple other connections I could get to, and the problem seemed to go away. About a month later the same issue started up again, and I was able to fix it the same way.
About a month and a half ago, I went to start my car, turned the key, and NO click. After turning the key a couple times the car would start as before. Then the next time I tried to start the car I again got nothing. On the third try the starter turned over, but only a few times before it died (and it sounded like it was really struggling to turn over too). The fourth time I turned the key the car started right up. This new behavior continued for about a week and then I took it into the shop.
At the shop they first started by cleaning all the connections, which did nothing. Next they put in a new starter which also didn't fix the problem. On the off chance the new starter was bad, they tried a second new starter, and again the problem continued. Finally they pulled out the wiring harness and found 3 "Bad wires" which they replaced. The then also concluded that the bad wires were causes the starter to short out, and that is why the two new starters they tried didn't work. They gave me a new starter, and that in conjunction with the new wires seemed to fix the problem.
Now, every few weeks, I'll go to turn the key, and all I'll get is a click again. The second time i turn the key, however, the car will start right up. This issue maybe happens more when its cold in the morning, but it hasn't happened enough for me to be sure. The clicking issue doesn't bother me that much because the car always starts, but I'm worried that the problem will just get worse again. Did my mechanic actually fix the problem I had? Or am I going to need to take it back in to the shop in a couple of months and put another new starter in? Also, I have had my battery tested three times throughout all of this, and it always comes back fine.
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Having problem with left turn signal problem on my 2005 Dodge Caravan. It only works sometimes, so I don't think it's a problem with the bulb. I read elsewhere that it could be a problem with the flasher module but how to find this on my van. What I should check for first and how/where to find it on my van?
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, on two separate occasions the headlights turned off and we could not get them on for several minutes. And on one occasion we couldn't turn them on. Now they seem to be working fine right now. The bulbs seem to be okay, I was thinking maybe a relay but I can't find a relay for the headlights. What it could be?
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I have a 2000 dodge caravan that has 290,000 miles on it. I don't want to put a lot of money into it.
Just recently I put in the anew alternator, then had some work done on the exhaust.
Immediately afterward, I had trouble starting it. My mechanic fixed a gas leak, then it would start sometimes, other times it would not start. Then different mechanic replaced a sensor. It started a few times and it is back to not starting again.
It makes an rrrrrr sound like it is getting some sparks, but it won't make the final start. The battery was tested, and jumping it with cables doesn't work. My brother and the tow truck driver thought it might be the fuel pump, which was replaced about a year ago.
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So I needed some electrical parts for the 2000 Caravan mostly the power door actuator is noisy and one vent window motor is shot. So I went to the local pull a part, paid $2 admission fee. Found my parts but no way to test them. Went to pay for them, they wanted to charge me $25 for each part, were not willing to have it returned in case it did not work, and did not have a battery for me to test them either. Is this the norm or should I have gone there with my oldest T-shirt? These parts sell probably for $45 to $80 new/on-line. I was trying to save money but felt if I end up buying the part again, it is essentially worse than just buying new.
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I have a 00 dodge caravan. Has always been a good van. Recently when I start it up first thing in the morning there is a puff of blue smoke come out of the exhaust. This will not show up again if you start the van up wth in an hour or so. If you leave it for 3 or more hours you will get a puff of blue smoke but not as much as the one after it has sat all night. What this might be????
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Drivers side not bowing hot air? We changed the blower motor and the resister on the passenger side. We hadn't tried to use the heat until last night when we needed the defrost and that's when we realized only heat on passenger side.
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