Dodge - Caravan - Gas-tanks - Gasoline :: 2001 - Code P0455 / Vapor Canister Damaged?
Apr 15, 2011
I keep getting this code even after fixing hoses with leaks. I am guilty of over filling my gas tank all the time can this have damaged the vapor canister on my 2001 dodge caravan....
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I have an 06 sonata 2.4l--last week the CEL came on so I took it to my mechanic and he said it was p0455 which is a large vapor leak in fuel assembly. We tried tightening the gas cap and resetting the code with a scanner but it came back on a day or two later. I have never overfilled my tank and i do not smell gas anywhere. the only real symptom (maybe non related)is my speedometer , it works but it is just a little slow to react when increasing or decreasing speed.---my gas mileage seems to be normal.We got under the car and looked around and couldn't notice any obvious tears in any lines -- should i try buying a new gas cap?--I was thinking it may be speed sensor but my mechanic said if it was the speed sensor , my tranny should be shifting funny , my trans shifts fine. I am at a loss and don't want to have to go to dealer with this.
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My 2001 6cyl 4x4 Xterra is a clogged gas tank vent solenoid, or as it is called now a "Vapor Canister Vent Valve". For the last 2 or 3 years, very infrequently, the vehicle turns completely off while decelerating (sometimes at very fast speeds so I have learned to be calm and put the car in N and turn the key and keep going with the flow so to speak). It also, either during a stop in idle or accelerating very slowly and steadily, makes popping sounds directly under the left back seat--which is where the gas tank is located. It sounds like the tank (or a metal can if you will) is being sucked in until it gives making the popping/banging sound against the car (underneath).
The other issue this problem seems to be linked to is the engine light coming on when the tank pops. I have had that diagnosed too, and it just reads "engine knock sensor". My previous wonderful mechanic, who moved about 30 states away, is no longer available but he did tell me it sounds like a blocked or clogged gas tank vent solenoid. He also said it's not a big problem per se, but at some point I should probably replace it. Sometimes there are 6 months that go by with no popping, stalling, or engine light coming on. So maybe 'bad gasoline' also plays into this issue?? I did an internet search recently and found a replacement part called a vapor canister vent valve. My question is how easy or hard is this thing to replace? Can it simply be 'blown out' with an air hose, or otherwise 'cleaned' instead of replacing it. The only thing scarier for me to fix than home electrical wires would be anything dealing with GAS.
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My 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan after many years of good gas mileage has become a guzzler. Has gone from 19 mpg to 10.2 mpg. Have had injectors cleaned, fuel system checked. What else can I have done? I really like this car.
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how can you tell if your vapor recovery system is faulty? I cannot fill my gas tank unless I very slowly put gas in. It takes forever to even put in a few gallons. I think the vent is plugged or I overfilled the tank and got gas in the canister.
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The fuel filler vent line rotted off so I had the gas tank and fuel pump replaced in September. Drove the car for 2 months without a problem until last week.The car lost power then stalled. I smelled gas and found that there was a large amount of gas pouring out of the bottom of the vapor canister.I bought a new one (very expensive for a plastic can) and put it on. Drove the car a couple days and then it happened again. Someone told me not to over fill the tank but I never did. In fact, this doesn't happen right after I get gas. Its a couple days after I get gas that it happens. I had two different auto mechanics look at it and neither one of them could figure it out.
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My Suburu Forester(2002) needs registering in DE and all lights must be off. I gave up trying to get the ignition light off 2 years ago, when it went off in time for registration and came back on as I drove home.
The AutoZone gave me a diagnosis of P1443, P0442, P0139, and P0483.
Suggested parts says : Vapor Canister.
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I have a 2001 Ford Excursion 6.8L V10. It runs like a champ, gets really good mileage for what it is, but there a strong fuel vapor smell coming from the charcoal vapor canister under the hood. You can smell it outside the truck and the smell gets pulled in through the vents - have to use Max AC recirc.
After checking and testing, I can confirm that the fuel vapor smell is coming from the charcoal canister and not anywhere else on the engine. The smell gets worse as the tank drains: Full Tank - Almost No Smell; Half Tank - Strong Smell; 1/4 Tank - Very Strong Smell.
Here is all that we have tried.-Replaced Fuel Cap (Genuine Ford)-Visually inspected the Evap Lines - Look Good-Visually inspected Fuel Line and Fuel Filter - Look Good-Checked the Fuel System for Leaks - None-Pressure Tested the Fuel System - No Leaks-Ran Multiple Smoke Tests on Evap System - No Leaks-Checked the Computer for Codes - No Codes-Replaced the Charcoal Vapor Canister (Genuine Ford)
We are totally stumped. I searched all the forums and can find issues with plugs, fuel injector o-rings, and leaks, but this has all be checked.
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A couple months ago, my Prius got stuck in 7 inch snow. A neighbor tow it into my driveway. I suspected and recently confirmed that some of the underbody panels got ripped off in the process. I don't have a lift easily available, and neither my oil change guys nor the Toyota dealer where I recently had it for maintenance mentioned anything about it. Are these panels basically just there to reduce drag and maybe provide some minor protection from rocks from the road, or is it important to replace them?
One of the damaged components is the passenger side front fender liner, the front part of it got ripped off. Looking through the hole, I noticed a white plastic canister (similar to the canisters that hold the windshield washer fluid, but positioned right in front of the wheel, under the headlight). It is empty and completely clean, as if it never held any fluids. From above, this canister is pretty much not visible.
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Check light came on and I had the code read at AutoZone. There were 3 codes but I'm pretty sure 2 are old (the check light previously came on a couple of months ago and I had it checked, then went off on its own). My car seems to be driving fine.
The new one is P0455. Large EVAP leak. I'm hoping it is just my gas cap.
The other 2 (older) codes are P0456 (small leak) and P0113 (IAT error).
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I just joined the forum mainly to care of my dads 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe but also I got a check engine light on my way home from work last night.
From last night I saw that oil was all over the timing belt. Today I inspected it with a Coworker and his OBD II reader.
Error Code was P0455, EVAP - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak).
Now the oil leak is stronger since the oil spills is on hood (inside hood). I will make a picture tonight when I get home.
I personal think it's leaking from a tube/ valve on top of the timing belt (picture will show more tonight). Thinking of cleaning the timing belt area, then drive a little around or leave it in idle to spot where the leak is from.
Common issue? I googled around but since P0455 is a common issue (on my 9-2x as well) I couldn't find anything about this I am also limited from my search since I am currently at my work PC incl. strong firewall.
I will see if google let me find a picture...
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I am done with this swap (I hope) changed out the 302 in my 81 van for a 351. The only smog spaghetti I am keeping is the fuel vapor canister but I am unsure what the #1 line in the photo is for I have the manual but doesn't state what it does my research suggests its a fuel vapor return line from the carb bowl back to the canister ...... I now have an edlebrock carb obviously w/o this port so my question is
#1 where would you reconnect this "whatever it is" line on carb or manifold
#2 I am going to install that #3 fitting in photo on the edlebrock manifold at the same location & extend #2 hose to it. I am thinking that's ok...
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Can a front brake job (pads and rotors) and an alignment cause the ABS Light (code 2200) to go on? I went to pick up the car and the mechanic said it was a coincidence that the light is on after the brake and alignment job. The light was not on before I brought the car (2008 Dodge Caravan) in but went on a few hours after the job was completed.
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My mechanic has diagnosed a trouble code P0601 (Internal Control Memory Fault) on my 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan. He and I feel the car is running fine. Do I need to get the PCM replaced (as I've been reading online) or can I drive it as is? We don't have emissions checks.
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I have a rather peculiar problem with My 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L. This has happened multiple times spread out over the last 10 years. Every couple of years after a rather long drive, then a stop, it spits, sputters, has very little to no power, and will ultimately die. It will usually start right back up, idle fine, but when you shift into gear, it acts up as described. If you let it set for about 15-20 minutes, it will usually start up and run fine without the symptoms as described.
The First time it happened I was lucky enough to be within a mile of the dealer, who diagnosed a bad fuel pump before it was ever on the lift. He showed me what he said was the culprit, which was a fuel filter that was full of black particles and soot. He replaced both the pump and filter and it ran fine for a couple of years and it started doing the same thing. Another new fuel pump and filter and we're running again (all under warranty).
About three years ago it did it again and this time we went to a different dealer and since we were no longer under warranty, we wanted to know what was actually going wrong. Nothing was ever found, no codes, pressure was good, everything looked fine. No problems until today when it started again, no dash or check engine lights, it just wouldn't run. We let it sit for 20-30 minutes and started it right up and drove it home without incident.
Are these vehicles known for vapor locking? It sure acts like that is what it was doing. The temp wasn't that hot and was ruled out as a factor.
I am planning to put a new fuel filter in it?
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I have a 2001dodge caravan that I can't seem to get the engine temp up on. I've replaced the thermostat and the coolant temp sensor and topped off the coolant. It raised the heat to the first line but once the vehicle is being driven the temp drops to 0 and heater blows cold. During the summer the vehicle runs at normal temp. Have disconnected the ambient temp sensor which did nothing to better or worsen the problem.
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'01 Dodge Caravan smells like something is burned or burning when the heater is on. Both heater motors run fine on all speeds, no noises, but doesn't seem to be heating like it should.
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The van a 2001 Dodge caravan ran without one of it's fan speeds for the last couple of years, but had enough other selections for the fan that it really didn't matter too much. Now the fan has actually quit working completely with no prior warning. The van has just over 200,000 miles on it. Where do I start, and can I check for voltage just before the fan, and how?
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Vehicle: 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 Litre
I also have my CE light on. Hooked up my reader and got the "P1491 Radiator Fan Control Relay" code. I have checked my rad fan fuse and it is okay. My attempt to locate the rad fan relay took me from the rad fan wire to a device that looks like a heat sink. It is located on the vehicle frame between the rad. and front grill. Is this the rad fan relay? If it is I'm not sure how I would replace it. It seems riveted to the frame.
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I have a 2001 T&C, 3.3L, 4-Speed tranny and around 116K Miles. On occasion, I totally lose power steering for about a second or two. It acts like the engine has stalled and I have to muscle the steering wheel. There no belt squealing, no pump noise, and the serpentine belt is relatively new. PS Fluid level is good. It seems to happen at idle RPM.
Of all the caravans I've had, this is a first.
Now, I'm OK with it as long as I don't let anyone else drive it. I know what to expect, and I can muscle the steering when necessary. Once this happened to my on a highway offramp and I was able to control it with no problems. I suspect it is a problem with the rack, maybe?
My question is this: Is this an indication of something going terribly bad, like the total loss of steering control?
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I bought my van in 2011 from my dad's former employer. It was a fleet vehicle and wasn't in the greatest of condition when I bought it. In 2012 I was told that I had a leak in my oil pan from a mechanic. I never ended up getting it fixed for various reasons. A few months ago, I lost power steering in my van and have been driving since without it. My dad wanted to see if anything could be done to fix it and found out the van is completely rusted underneath and ended up puncturing a hole in the bottom when he tried to jack the thing up. I am really hoping to get a (new) used car but don't have the money right now. I was wondering though how long would you expect I could "survive" with my car like this?
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