'98 Dodge Caravan occasionally loses power and dies while driving. No power steering or brakes. Have changed alternator, battery, starter, computer, and starter switch. What else could it be?
View 6 RepliesBlower, seats, locks, blinkers stopped simultaneously, abs and airbag light came on. The internet suggested it was the ignition switch, I changed it to no avail. The horn, wipers, 4-way flashers, headlights, taillights, and brake lights all work. Is my wife correct in suggesting we replace this 140,000 mile pile of rust?
View 5 RepliesMy 2003 Dodge Caravan is shutting off while I am driving, starts up ok but goes a little and then shuts off, has to cool down all day and night to go about three miles, got a diagnostics done and it says I need an engine wiring harness and controller. My question is, is there a curtain part of the harness or wiring that could be bad that causes it to shut off, and what part would that be, can it be repaired instead of replacing the whole harness and wires?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2001 T&C, 3.3L, 4-Speed tranny and around 116K Miles. On occasion, I totally lose power steering for about a second or two. It acts like the engine has stalled and I have to muscle the steering wheel. There no belt squealing, no pump noise, and the serpentine belt is relatively new. PS Fluid level is good. It seems to happen at idle RPM.
Of all the caravans I've had, this is a first.
Now, I'm OK with it as long as I don't let anyone else drive it. I know what to expect, and I can muscle the steering when necessary. Once this happened to my on a highway offramp and I was able to control it with no problems. I suspect it is a problem with the rack, maybe?
My question is this: Is this an indication of something going terribly bad, like the total loss of steering control?
2005 Dodge Caravan losing power; code read catalytic converter, so replaced but it is still doing same thing. Will drive fine some days, others it loses power or sometimes accelerates when stopping. What else could be wrong?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Dodge Caravan, modified for use for someone in a wheelchair. On two occasions now I have been driving and have lost ALL power, including all dashboard lights, signals, power steering and power brakes. Luckily both times I was able to pull over without much problem (aside from problems steering and having to mash really hard on the brakes). Turned off the motor, restarted, and everything seemed fine. The first time this happened I took it to my mechanic who said he was unable to duplicate the problem. The second time this happened (yesterday) was after a severe rainstorm. I can't remember what the weather was like the first time it happened.
View 3 RepliesWhile driving home after replacing a dead battery, clearly I didn't tighten the negative cable enough as it popped off while I was driving (I only found this out after I got home though). But even after popping off, the truck kept going, albeit with the battery gauge maxed out and the dashboard/headlights flickering. I turned off what I could (it was night, so I needed headlights!), but it still accelerated well, and there were no noticeable performance issues at all. When I got home, I tightened the cable, started it up again just fine, ran it for a minute, then turned it off and restarted it fine again with no problems.
My concern is: am I looking at serious electrical issues long term, or should I be ok? I'm just trying to make sure that driving without a negative cable for less than a mile doesn't fry certain parts of the car, and end up causing big issues down the road. (Truck is a 2000 dodge dakota slt)
I've got about 80K miles on my '06 Sonata and the weather conditions were on the very wet side.
At first I thought I heard a squealing sound which I just credited to either a radio or windshield wiper sound while cruising through some twisty coastal roads. The rain was coming down pretty good and a small amount of standing water of already on the road.
As I continued my drive I began to notice an occasional loss of power steering for a split second through some turns accompanied by that same belt squealing sound. At the same time the battery light also came on for a split second which indicated to me possible engine failure for a split second. Even though it was for only a split second it really freaked me out to think I could end up crossing the center lane or over into the ditch. I then slowed my pace for the rest of the trip. When I stopped for gas I popped the hood and things appeared to be normal and with plenty of power steering fluid.
2005 Honda Accord. I have been experiencing a loss of electricity to my dashboard - the radio cuts out, tach and speedometer needles drop, sometimes warning lights come on. I don't think I have experience a loss of power with this but when it happens, it lasts less than a second.
I can go days of driving without issue. Then, in one drive it may happen four or five times. I hate the idea of taking it into the dealer on an intermittent electrical issue. That could be a real bank drain.
1965 F100 300cid electrical drain...
I am attaching a link to my thread in the 1960's truck forum : [URL] .....
With my limited skill level, I have given up! It could very likely be something I am doing wrong with the diagnoses/troubleshooting.
Basically, When I turn the key to start the truck, I get a clicking solenoid at best and what appears to be a total loss of power. Not even the dome light will come on. The starter is new as is the solenoid.
There is a clicking sound (about once per second) in the front of the engine compartment of my 2002 Dodge Dakota (2WD, quad cab, manual, no alarm, no electric windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) when the vehicle is off (ignition in the off position - with or without key in ignition). It stops if the battery is disconnected, if the key is in the run position, or if the key is in the position that allows one to use power while the vehicle is off. The interior lights and headlights will flash in sync with the clicking sound if they are on as well. The chime that lets you know that the key is in the ingnition with the door open will miss a beat with the click also. The amps running through the circuit (no lights on) jump up from 27 milliamps to 39 milliamps with the click sound. A possibly related issue is that the headlights no longer stay on for the 30 seconds or so that they used to when I turn off and exit the truck after having driven with the lights on. The clicking and light flashing continued even though I removed each fuse and relay in the box under the hood and the one next to the driver door (the lights stopped when their fuse was removed, but the clicking continued).
View 3 RepliesMy beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1994 Ford Explorer XLT. It just died the other night. I have dim dome light, nothing else. I had the battery and alternator tested, both are ok. I get an occasional click when trying to start it. I also get an occasional beeping, the key in the ignition sound. I've checked the fuses, and can't find a broken one.
View 3 RepliesThis evening I drove our Subaru Legacy Wagon (1999) about 3 miles or so to the gym. When I pulled into the lot, I noticed my radio (tuned to NPR, no less) had gone off. Curious! A few seconds later, dashboard lights come on (ABS, maybe others). After that, engine goes quiet, car is dead -- turning the key does nothing at all, and the car is completely without power. Only the dome light works, and barely. I get a jump, and eventually the car starts back up --- but it took a while, and several tries, before I could get the engine going.
On the way home, I kept a careful eye on the RPMs -- when I was close, I noticed the ABS light pop back on, and the RPM needle go down to zero. I tried my best to keep the RPMs up by staying in first, and managed to park. Of course, the car was unresponsive when I immediately tried to restart it. Some quick internet searches suggest alternator, bad connections to the battery, and some other ideas. We've never had this problem before. The twist is that we're literally on the brink of selling this car -- we've got one more than we need. Thus, we'd be pretty bummed if we had to put much, if any, cash into the car just so we can get rid of it days later.
I have a 2011 Ford F150 FX4, And for a while now i have been having a issue with the gauge cluster.
while driving once in a while all of the gauge cluster turns off then back on within a couple of second. all the lights for the traction control, air bag, engine.... turn on and then turn off just like when you start the truck.
The issue only last for a couple of seconds. And it can go for a day before doing it. Brought it to the Ford dealership and they said unless the gauges are completely off there is nothing to go on by. Also once in awhile the check advancetrac comes on and will be off next time i start the truck. Same thing dealer said there was no codes and nothing then can do.
I checked all the connection at the fuse box, gauge cluster. and no issues. had the truck running and try wiggling all of the connectors, in the truck one by one with no success in duplicating the issue.
Also notice that once in awhile my signal light will flas extremely slow when having the blinker on.
2005 Grand Caravan with 160K miles. Automatic door locks started not working two years ago and needed to be reset by either disconnecting the battery or pulling the fuse. First this would happen every six months, then about every three months, then monthly, and now about every two weeks. Is there anyway to avoid having to reset the system every two weeks?
View 3 RepliesI'm trying to find the wiring diagram for the power windows in a 96 f150. I've got a set of these that i need to fab a harnes for to install in my 82.
View 12 RepliesMy 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
View 3 RepliesSo I'm writing this for my friend but he has a 1978 F-150 with a 1969 390 in it. He recently had a problem where his starter got stuck and it lit the wires connected to the solenoid up in flames. Well anyways we replaced all the wires that were attached to the solenoid and replaced the solenoid and the starter also. But after wiring it up it has no power whatsoever. The battery is also brand new and the fuse links are fine. What is causing this?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and while I was driving it stopped on me. It will turn on but once you put it in gear it will turn off and wont turn back on. I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump.
View 3 RepliesMy daughter's 2007 Sonata 4 cyl (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just steers like an old classic without power steering - then can.
This is kind or a repeat post from another individual but he had a V6.
SBR711 recommended replacing the Harmonic balancer and I am inclined to do so but parts guy at Hyundai said that typically is not an issue in the 4 cyl model. So he does not keep item on hand.
Fluid is fine, clean and proper level. No screeching etc..