Dodge - Caravan :: Soft Brakes In Spite Of New Master Cylinder
Mar 31, 2011
Lost braking power. Replaced master cylinder. Brakes went soft again. Shop says it is something to do with the ABS Control Unit (?). Took it to dealer who said it is a leaking master cylinder. Back to shop which claims nothing wrong with new master cylinder and it i the ABS blah blah. Dealer says it can't be ABS. Went to another shop. Replaced master cylinder again. Brakes still soft. No one can figure this out and I am stuck with very soft brakes.
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I have a 79 f150. I changed two brake lines and master cylinder and bleed,and more bleed,but still very soft all most to floor? wheel cylinders look good.
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I just had all 6 fuel injectors changed as they were rusted. But the 4 and 6 are still miss firing. I am going through gas more than I should. I had the EGR replaced as it was stuck open. I do not want to pour more big money into this thing. What can I do. Sea foam is not working. Could it be another problem. I am starting not to trust the mechanics.
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC.
I change the rotor, calipers, and pads on the front end.
When I went to bleed the brakes I got some fluid, then I got none.
I can hear fluid squishing around up near the master cylinder, but none coming to the caliper.
I see a bleeder screw on the master cylinder.
Before the car came to me the person had, had low fluid, but had brakes. Now the pedal just goes all the way to the floor with no effort.
There are no leaks or broken lines anywhere.
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I have a 2004 Camry LE with 214,000 miles on the clock, and this car has had needed maintenance pertaining to the braking system ever since I bought it in January. Let me give you some background on past issues/maintenance before I dive into my current issue.
During the test drive, the brake pedal felt extremely soft/spongy, having to travel a lot farther than any other car I've driven (even my father's full size pickup had stronger brakes). My dad dismissed it just being the way the car was. In hindsight I would've walked away or slept on it, but let's just say I was pressured into buying the car right away.
We took it to my trusted local mechanic a few days later for an overall inspection, and he said the front brakes/rotors needed to be replaced. He said the rear brakes were thin, but could be replaced later down the line. So we replaced the front ones, expecting it to have some improvement. In reality, the brake pedal force was still the same as before.
A few months later, after hearing faint squeaking coming from the rear brakes, the brake light started to illuminate intermittently. That's when we decided to replace the rear brakes/rotors. After we replaced the rear brakes, braking motion was dramatically improved, and I did not have to push the pedal very far to achieve adequate braking power. It was great,while it lasted.
It gradually started to go back to the way it was, which is really disappointing. After growing tired of the problems, I decided to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and it was practically at the minimum line! Figuring it was a brake line or master cylinder leak, we took it again to my mechanic to have him inspect the braking system. Much to everyone's surprise (including my mechanic), there were no leaks to be found and he told me to come back if it gets worse or the brake light comes on. HOWEVER, when I drove it home from the mechanic, the brakes felt the way they did when he put the rear rotors on. On the service record, it said he just looked for leaks and readjusted the rear rotors. This was about a month ago, or at 209,000 miles.
However, as before, the brakes slowly started to loose their "bite" again and sure enough, the master cylinder had lost fluid; albeit not as significant as before, but enough to require topping off. In addition, whenever I'm decelerating on the freeway (from let's say, 75-60 MPH), the wheel shakes as well. This wasn't really present before.
My patience is running thin with this car; we've easily spent half the value of the car on maintenance.
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Why the brake lines have 2 or 3 coils in them near the master cylinder? Makes it a real pain to work on anything down in that area. Always snags ratchets and stuff...
My brother and I were discussing it the other nite, and the conclusion we came up with was, the first guy ever who was installing a brake system had tubing that was a couple feet too long, and couldn't find a tubing cutter, so he coiled them up.
Then the next guy saw that and figured "hmm, so THAT'S how it's done", and so on... Kinda like the story about the lady who always cut off both ends of her ham before she put it in the broiler..
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I have a '53 Ford F100. I have a PB conversion kit on it. The master cylinder & Booster are under the floor. I have used this setup for many years. Recently my master cylinder went bad. I replaced it with the same model. I bench bled it, and installed it. I also added a remote fill kit, since it's difficult to check & fill. Because of the booster, the master cylinder no longer sits under the hatch in the floor.
I got everything installed & connected, then bled all 4 wheels using a bleeder kit with an electric vacuum pump. The fluid runs clear & no bubbles, but I can't get a pedal by pumping. I have no leaks. I tried with the engine off, and running. I have felt soft pedals before, but I have no pedal at all, it just goes to the floor.
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I was wondering if there was how to on doing the MC replacement? The brake pedal goes to the floor almost every time you press on the brake?
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1987 F-350 460 Auto Trans. Brake Pedal slowly going to the floor. Stopped at a red light yesterday on a slight down hill and I noticed the brake pedal slowly going to the floor. I had to put the truck in Park to avoid bumping into the car in front of me. I checked brake fluid level and still at the full level, check rims for brake fluid leak from brake cylinder, none. Could my master cyclinder need rebuilding or is my vacume diaphragm going. Not sure thats what its called.
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I replaced the master cylinder 2 months ago and now every now and then the rear lock up for a second. its only happened a couple of times. Pulled the wheels and everything is in place with nominal wear with clean drums and rotors. Am at a loss as to why this is happening.
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2012 dodge caravan. Bought it used last year with 27k miles. Day after I bought it, it threw a misfire code. They said the spark plugs got wet when they washed the under carriage. Dried it out, cleared the code.
For the next month the car went from a slight shimmy during idle...progressed to strong shaking (its shakes, pauses, shakes...etc.) Finally another misfire code. Took it in and this is what the report says.
"Cylinder misfire on #4. Performed compression test found #4 cylinder compression at 100 PSI. All other cylinders at 150 PSI. Recommend to replace front cylinder head. Has burned exhaust valve seat. Replaced left cylinder head assembly."
About 2 months later check engine light comes on, car is over heating. Coolant bone dry. Replaced coolant, took it back in. They replaced the intake manifold?? Been slowly losing coolant. I have to replace it about every 2-3 months. I notice the car shakes worse when the coolant is low, with minimal shaking when coolant is replaced. Finally took it back in a few week ago when my husband got back from deployment. They said it was a loose bolt on the intake manifold causing the slow leak. They couldn't verify my complaint about the shaking.
Now, car still shaking. Its minimal on start up, gets worse the longer I idle. I can only feel the shaking while in idle. If I restart the car it goes back to minimal before progressing again. Took it back in. They verified the shaking, hooked it up to a computer, no codes or anything. Told me its normal. It CANT be normal, right? I neglected to check the coolant level before I took it back in. I left it with them saying they will look it over, but they don't think anything is wrong. This is exactly how it progressed when they ended up replacing the cylinder head. I have 1k miles left on the warranty, and am moving in 2 weeks 1500 miles away. I don't have time to wait for another code.
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A few years ago I (for him) replaced all 4 calipers, rotors, pads, etc....things were good. Just recently he replaced his Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (not sure what led to this), but long story short everything is back together and he doesn't have brakes.
My GUESS is that the system needs a good flush, new fluid, etc....
My problem is I'm unsure how to bleed the ABS system. A few google searched indicate I need a scan tool, but is there another way? Can I jump something.
So my question, how do I completely bleed the brake system on this truck?
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2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan, modified for use for someone in a wheelchair. On two occasions now I have been driving and have lost ALL power, including all dashboard lights, signals, power steering and power brakes. Luckily both times I was able to pull over without much problem (aside from problems steering and having to mash really hard on the brakes). Turned off the motor, restarted, and everything seemed fine. The first time this happened I took it to my mechanic who said he was unable to duplicate the problem. The second time this happened (yesterday) was after a severe rainstorm. I can't remember what the weather was like the first time it happened.
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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I have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
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I own a 2004 camry 3.0 v6 Car. Recently, i realized that i have to press hard on the brakes for the car to stop and its been like that ever since. I driven my dads rav4 and my friends corolla to test and their cars begin to stop just as i light press on the brakes. Mine however, i need more force to being to slow the car down.
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Bought a prius off craigslist that didn't have a hybrid battery. Replaced it with a used reinvolt battery off ebay. Car starts right up now. However, there's a few things wrong with it. I can't get the key out of the ignition and the brakes are soft. Could these be related?
I have a fully charged and known good 12v battery in the car. And when I remove it, the key comes right out. If I bleed the brakes, do you think that will solve the problem?
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A while ago I had to lock up my brakes to prevent an accident. now my brakes are soft and spongy, going all the way to the floor and still not quite stopping. making abs type noise. also, i can press all the way down while standing still, with the same type noise.
1996 chevrolet astrovan
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Which line goes to front brakes and which to rear from the master cylinder?
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Vehicle is an '86 Comanche 2.5L. Tested the battery at standing and charging, came to 12.8 standing and 14.7 charging. The alternator relay clicks, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's in good working order.
Any electrical load applied; headlights, taillights, hazards, blinkers, etc. kill the engine.
The clutch master cylinder is leaking onto the fuse box, though I moved it as best I could as I don't have the funds for a new master cylinder right now and I'm not sure which fuses, capacitors, and relays do what on the fuse box as the writing is barely noticeable.
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