Dodge - Caravan :: Power Window Getting Slower As Temperature Drops
Nov 8, 2016
My drivers side window hates the cold, getting slower as the temperature drops. When it's real cold it gets to the point where it only goes up a fraction of an inch and stops, then I have to wait a minute and try again. I find that grabbing it and pulling while I hit the switch works a little. So I've researched the problem a bit. Don't think the rails need silicone lube as some suggest. I've seen one guy tap the window motor with a screwdriver, and a post about somehow getting to the brushes and cleaning them. I'm thinking just replace the motor, but it seems odd that it's temperature related.
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I drive an '04 with about 86k. Shortly after I hit 85k i got into an accident that required both drivers side doors and the drivers window to be replaced. 2 weeks ago I noticed that my driver's window was excessively loud going up and slower to rise than the other windows. Upon closer inspection it seems that the rubber surround at the front part of the window gets bunched up requiring the motor to work harder to get the window all the way up. I fear that it is only a short time before the motor fails and the window becomes useless.
I plan to go back to the body shop and have them take a look at it. I am not fully sure if they caused the problem, my common sense tells me that the drivers window ought to be the first to fail, seeing as it gets used the most (garage tickets, drive throughs etc. But I am hesitant to replace the motor if the repairs were done improperly causing it to burn out). How much the motor runs? I am guessing that this will not be a cheap repair, but my hope is that the body shop will at least do the labor for free seeing as they replaced the window and the door and I now have this problem. I have to take the car back anyways, they replaced the fender and it is loose at the top.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan, modified for use for someone in a wheelchair. On two occasions now I have been driving and have lost ALL power, including all dashboard lights, signals, power steering and power brakes. Luckily both times I was able to pull over without much problem (aside from problems steering and having to mash really hard on the brakes). Turned off the motor, restarted, and everything seemed fine. The first time this happened I took it to my mechanic who said he was unable to duplicate the problem. The second time this happened (yesterday) was after a severe rainstorm. I can't remember what the weather was like the first time it happened.
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Blower, seats, locks, blinkers stopped simultaneously, abs and airbag light came on. The internet suggested it was the ignition switch, I changed it to no avail. The horn, wipers, 4-way flashers, headlights, taillights, and brake lights all work. Is my wife correct in suggesting we replace this 140,000 mile pile of rust?
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I have a 2001 T&C, 3.3L, 4-Speed tranny and around 116K Miles. On occasion, I totally lose power steering for about a second or two. It acts like the engine has stalled and I have to muscle the steering wheel. There no belt squealing, no pump noise, and the serpentine belt is relatively new. PS Fluid level is good. It seems to happen at idle RPM.
Of all the caravans I've had, this is a first.
Now, I'm OK with it as long as I don't let anyone else drive it. I know what to expect, and I can muscle the steering when necessary. Once this happened to my on a highway offramp and I was able to control it with no problems. I suspect it is a problem with the rack, maybe?
My question is this: Is this an indication of something going terribly bad, like the total loss of steering control?
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2005 Dodge Caravan losing power; code read catalytic converter, so replaced but it is still doing same thing. Will drive fine some days, others it loses power or sometimes accelerates when stopping. What else could be wrong?
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I bought my van in 2011 from my dad's former employer. It was a fleet vehicle and wasn't in the greatest of condition when I bought it. In 2012 I was told that I had a leak in my oil pan from a mechanic. I never ended up getting it fixed for various reasons. A few months ago, I lost power steering in my van and have been driving since without it. My dad wanted to see if anything could be done to fix it and found out the van is completely rusted underneath and ended up puncturing a hole in the bottom when he tried to jack the thing up. I am really hoping to get a (new) used car but don't have the money right now. I was wondering though how long would you expect I could "survive" with my car like this?
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I have a 1995 Dodge Caravan with over 300,000 miles on it. There have been no repairs to the Power Steering system and it made no noises and did not ever leak prior to July 2011. The power steering system started leaking somewhere, so I went to a chain store shop. They replaced the pump citing that it had rusted through. However, the leaks continued. I took it back twice and they found nothing. An affiliate store determined that the problem was the steering rack and they replaced it and the recently replaced pump. They also said one hose that had a crimp clamp had worked loose and the rack seals were shot. My question: is it likely that the pump and rack failed within a three month period independently? That's what the chain store district manager concluded.
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So I needed some electrical parts for the 2000 Caravan mostly the power door actuator is noisy and one vent window motor is shot. So I went to the local pull a part, paid $2 admission fee. Found my parts but no way to test them. Went to pay for them, they wanted to charge me $25 for each part, were not willing to have it returned in case it did not work, and did not have a battery for me to test them either. Is this the norm or should I have gone there with my oldest T-shirt? These parts sell probably for $45 to $80 new/on-line. I was trying to save money but felt if I end up buying the part again, it is essentially worse than just buying new.
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'98 Dodge Caravan occasionally loses power and dies while driving. No power steering or brakes. Have changed alternator, battery, starter, computer, and starter switch. What else could it be?
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1992 Dodge Caravan 4cyl manual (last of the breed)Damn thing still runs, until yesterday.
Merging onto interstate, moderately hard acceleration. Sudden reduction in power, engine running rough, won't maintain 60mph in 5th, steering wheel shakes, engine bucks. Made it about 10 mi. Symptoms got worse, pulled off next exit and drove a bit looking for a mechanic.
Same symptoms, lower speed, lower gear. Had to nurse it up even mild hills in first. Got bad enough that I pulled into a gas station and got a tow home.
Check engine light is not on. No warning lights. Did not start to heat up until the very end.
Eats oil, but I just topped it up that morning. Also drinks coolant, also topped up.Oil is not overfull. Did not drive through water or rain.Timing belt was changed about 10,000 miles ago.
The question:If I haven't already destroyed the engine, is it likely that I will kill it if I drive it to the shop (a few miles)?Or should I have it towed there?(Or should I just have it junked.)
Context:I had a hard time warming up to this car when we bought it new. It was, of course, my wife's car until she got a new one and I inherited it. (Why does that always happen?) I've had it now for over half of my married life. It's six years younger than my younger daughter, sort of a neglected and abused third child. But it just won't die.
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Planning to take the 14.5 Camry in later next week. I've noticed the passenger window goes up/down considerably slower than the other 3. I know it's not specific to the passenger window, but have you guys experienced any given window quite slower than the rest? I don't think it's wear and tear since I have no passengers 85% of the time. Wonder if warranty still covers it within 2 years..
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Any fix for the driver side window rolling up slower than the passenger side. Sounds like the motor is having a harder time moving it. I can hear the motor straining. Looking for info about successfully lubricate the regulator and fix this? I'd like not to have to replace the motor.
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Just noticed the other day when when rolling up or down the window on my 2010 corolla, when the window reaches the upper / lower stop and the switch is held down, the idle speed drops and the engine stumbles. Alternator ?
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My drivers window gets progressively slower the further down it goes. Does this seem like motor is shot? Can you open window motor case and rebuild it like the older ford window motors?
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My 2004 Caravan lost power to windshield washer motor and headlights, after checking under fuse box, I swapped over the relay marked headlights washer , still nothing. I disconnected the power module at the front of the fuse box by removing four torx head screws. Removed it by rocking it a it out towards the front of the van. I cleaned the terminals and replaced it. Seems to have solved the problem .
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Very loud timing chain noise in my Mitsubishi 2.6 engine. It has 105k miles on it. I ordered a new complete timing chain kit and oil pump from an online autoparts store. The parts arrived here and scheduled an appointment to have those parts put in today. While driving the van to the repair shop, it broke down about 4 miles from my house. I started to lose power on the highway then a loud screeching noise, similar sound to a belt going bad or slipping. The temp gauge started to climb rapidly. I immediately shut off the van and pulled over. It was towed back home and wouldn't restart. Battery was weak. I charged the battery for three hours and the van started again. This time it runs incredibly rough. The whole van shakes badly when in gear (also the loud timing chain noise). I also noticed an oil leak on the ground on the passenger side, in the area of the timing chain/oil pump area.
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Okay, here's the situation... I have a 04 Olds Silhouette. Within the last 3 days I have noticed the following "symptoms".
1. drivers side window rolls up and down a lot slower than before.
2. The fuel gauge has been acting up, shot up way over full just yesterday and we know we had just under half a tank.
3. Speedometer is also acting up, reads at least 5 to 10 miles per hour over.
Fast forward to tonight, I was sitting in our van listening to the radio while wife was inside walmart and when I went to start it up to warm it up before she returned, it would not start, only got clicking. We did try jump starting it and all we've gotten so far is clicking. Are any of the symptoms I listed above, connected to this issue? Also, what is the issue? Battery or starter or other?
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My passenger side window is getting slower to roll up. Started with it being a tenth of a second slower. Now I'm at about two seconds. It's only a matter of time before it stops all together.
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I have a 99 Suburban 5.7L that does not like to start when outside air temperature drops in the fall. This only effects initial morning start and once started it starts and runs fine all day! If i give it a very small shot of either in crankcase vent opening in intake bonnet it starts and runs fine after that! The pump cycles and seems to be fine! Once started all is fine untill the next morning after it sets 12 hours! Could it be the AIT switch?
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My van just started to have this issue today with jerking real hard like its dropping a couple of gears while going between 50-60mph. It is a 2000 with the flex fuel 3.3L 4 speed auto.When this happens the spedo will go from 55mph to 40 instantly while keeping a steady speed and it feels like the tranny is going to rip right out. This will happen every 5 to 10 min but go back to normal driving after 3 sec and has not popped any codes. It runs like a top and all fluids are at the correct levels. I have to commute 50 miles a day to work so i really need to figure this out!!!
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