Dodge - Caravan :: Noise From Front Suspension
Jun 14, 2016
My front suspension has been making some noise for a while now, and lately has been getting worse. So I want to replace whatever the problem is, but having trouble figuring it out. Everything looks ok, and the methods I researched aren't giving any clues. The one question I Have is, should I be able to move any of the parts by hand? There are two that I can wiggle back and forth pretty easily, but I don't know if this is normal or not. One is a thin vertical piece parallel to the strut, the other is behind the wheel and low in the back (a tie rod?). Don't know the part names, have worked on my vehicles for a long time but never the suspension.
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So I replaced the stabilizer bushing on my 2005 Dodge Caravan, as there was a bit of clunking and some wobble in the front end. I'm sure there's more to do (other suspension parts to replace), but the bushings were obviously worn when I looked at them. The clunking is gone, and the suspension feels better, but now the bushings make a scrunching rubber sound when I drive over uneven pavement and also when I first accelerate. I assume its the stabilizer bar flexing, but also assume I shouldn't be hearing it. After all, who would want new noisy bushings? Nothing else is new on the front end (except rotors and pads).
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My 2008 Dodge Caravan SXT is having A/C problems. The back air works great, all the time...however, the front air randomly turns off and on. It doesn't matter what speed I'm going, what speed the knob is turned to (low vs. high), it just stops blowing. When I'm driving at a faster speed I can feel the cold air barely coming through the vents, but doesn't change when I move the knob. All along, the back A/C works perfectly. I've looked online and found a lot of things about the resistor, blower motor, fuse and WIN module. How I can narrow it down without paying the dealership an arm and a leg to fix things that might not even be the issue?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan. I drive very little locally - usually just a couple of miles a week. But every couple of months I drive an hour and a half away to THE BIG CITY. Last week I took such a trip, and coming home I noticed my van was making a "jingley" noise. Just like the sleigh bells in the barn. With the windows open I can't tell where the noise is coming from. And it isn't associated with the a/c, since the a/c was off when the noise started.
Since then when I take my little local trips it only made the noise once - when I went over 35 mph. Usually drive slower locally. So, I don't know whether the problem is associated with length of drive time or speed, but I'm thinking it's associated with a higher speed.
Yes, I have an apt. with a mechanic, but I can't get in to see him until the middle of next week.
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My 05 Caravan is in excellent shape with only 40k miles and noticed rust and paint bubbles only on the lower front side of the rear wheel well (drivers side). I live in Pa and wash the car after snow storms. Of course the car is out of rust warranty and the dealer said they can repair it but they do not know what causes it. I have seen this exact problem on other caravans and I have been told it is were the two pieces of metal are joined together, the wheel well seam, which causes the problem. We sealed the seam last fall with silicon when it was just paint bubbles and now it has gotten worse. My thinking is either we need to go back and look at the seam again as we only sealed the section that looked open or there is a leak from somewhere else in the van - the gas cap area or the area on the frame when the door is open is suspect to me. Basically I am asking if there is anywhere else I should look for this leak besides the wheel well seam?
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In cold weather, front suspension is very noisy. I've replaced stabilizer bar bushings, stabilizer bar links, control arms (complete with new bushings and ball joints). A few months prior, I replaced struts with Monroe quick struts. Noise appears when I hit a pot hole or go over a speed bump. Not really a creaking, almost like a slapping sound. I've taken a look at motor mounts and they look OK. Now that the weather is warm there's no noise. Rack and pinion were replaced about a year ago so engine cradle was removed. I removed it and reinstalled. Also installed new tie rod ends and lubed the inner tie rod joints.
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I have an engine noise on my 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 engine. It sounds a lot like the grinding of a rotating part. It occurs at start up, momentarily, then goes away. If I drop it in gear and start doing low speed maneuvering in the driveway, it comes back. If I turn on the AC it comes back. In all cases, the noise goes away at around 1200 rpm.
The noise occurs again, when I shut the engine down.The engine performs and runs smooth and normal otherwise. No stalling, stumbling, or bad gas mileage to report.
I can "feel" the noise with my hand, when I put my hand on the ac compressor bracket, or the intake manifold, or the valve cover. I've tried the listening through the stick method, and it seems to be coming from the front area of the engine. But I can't be sure. It is something internal. Let me describe:
I thought it was my AC compressor or clutch going bad. The fact that my AC had stopped working well, and was making jet engine noises at high rpm supported me decide this. I replaced the compressor. The AC works great now, and the jet engine noises went away. But the grinding noise is still there. As described.
I wishfully thought it was the belt tensioner or idler pulley. I replaced both of those. Noise still was there. I pulled off the serpentine belt, and started the engine. It made the noise, very briefly as it started, then went away completely. It made the noise again briefly as I shut the motor off. So it's still there without any of the accessories turning.
The noise is loud and obnoxious at idle when under load. It just can't be good. I've read theories about similar sounding problems, saying they could be loose timing chain, bad oil pump, slapping pistons, crank journals, flexplate/flywheels cracked.
I'm going to try doing an oil system flush, and then I'll change it out with a little thicker oil. See if that makes any difference in the noise. Currently I'm running 5w-30 Mobile 1. I think. I'll let you know if it changes anything. I'm also thinking I want to make a short video of the car idling and making the noise for my video camera. I'll post that on youtube and link it here.
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Very loud timing chain noise in my Mitsubishi 2.6 engine. It has 105k miles on it. I ordered a new complete timing chain kit and oil pump from an online autoparts store. The parts arrived here and scheduled an appointment to have those parts put in today. While driving the van to the repair shop, it broke down about 4 miles from my house. I started to lose power on the highway then a loud screeching noise, similar sound to a belt going bad or slipping. The temp gauge started to climb rapidly. I immediately shut off the van and pulled over. It was towed back home and wouldn't restart. Battery was weak. I charged the battery for three hours and the van started again. This time it runs incredibly rough. The whole van shakes badly when in gear (also the loud timing chain noise). I also noticed an oil leak on the ground on the passenger side, in the area of the timing chain/oil pump area.
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I have a 2012 dodge caravan bought new. After about 6000 miles the left rear brake began making a grinding noise, only when applied, every time the car sat more than a few hours, that goes away after about 2-3 miles. It began in winter and continues into the warm and dry days of spring now with 9000 miles total. Had it to dealer twice and inspection found no malfunction so they say its from rust build up because it goes away all the time and is nothing to worry about. It does not occur with the other wheels. My niece has the same van, in same geographic area and does not have this problem. Does this selective rust build up explanation make sense? Previously burned with bad brakes on a caravan, so am skeptical.
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I have an intermittent brake noise, which sounds like rubber rubbing against rubber. There is no discernable effect on the brakes, pulling, etc. My mechanic can find noting wrong with the brakes.
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I am experiencing an annoying noise from the front struts when passing over bumps. I do not believe that the front end is bottoming, but it seems to give a deep thud sound. It is not a tin sound, but more like something loose and insulated. What is a jounce bushing? Are these something in the strut assembly and susceptible to getting loose? I have read about the springs could be the culprit, but could it be that the front spring is bottoming and the strut is hitting a bottoming rubber ? Jounce bushing?
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Back in June I replaced all 4 brakes and rotors. Now all of sudden I hear a loud grinding noise in the front end only when I'm braking to a complete stop.
I took all 4 tires off and then took off the pads. The pads and rotors are all still brand new and have very minor normal wear. Also the calipers still look good.
I then put everything back together and went for a test drive. The grinding noise is still there. It's very loud and only when I come to a complete stop.
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This a 3.3L engine although the noise has nothing to do with the engine but front left near tire assembly, what can it be?
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I just picked up a 2002 Camry with 137K miles and I can hear a rattling noise coming front passenger's side front suspension when tires are going over road irregularities. The car rides smooth so it doesn't seem that the struts are bad so was wondering is it a bushing or something in the front drivetrain (CV joint?). Interested enough my wife's 05 Lexus E330 with slightly less mileage makes the same noise on her driver's side.
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Sone water from the air conditioner drains on the carpet on the right side of the car. The drain hose is open and water in draining from it. Where could I look to find the problem? It is a 2003 caravan
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We recently had some oil leaks fixed on my wife's 2002 Dodge Caravan. The oil light comes on whenever she stops at a stoplight. It seems like it comes on when the RPM drops to about 600 or 700 RPM and then goes off when RPM increases. Is this something to worry about? If so what needs to be fixed?
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I just had all 6 fuel injectors changed as they were rusted. But the 4 and 6 are still miss firing. I am going through gas more than I should. I had the EGR replaced as it was stuck open. I do not want to pour more big money into this thing. What can I do. Sea foam is not working. Could it be another problem. I am starting not to trust the mechanics.
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I have a 2006 sonata and I have a noise in the front end. On the link below you can hear it. I need to know where the noise is coming front.
Hyundai Sonata 2006 front suspension noise.wmv - YouTube
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Over the last few weeks, my '12 Azera has developed some sort of noise I assume to be from the suspension, particularly on the right front. When the car sits for a long amount of time, there is a bumping/rattling noise when driving it. It takes a long time for it to go away. If I drive it a bit, turn it off for a bit, then drive it again, it won't do it any more.
I'm thinking it could be the strut mount bearing. I had a GM car that did the same thing and that was the problem. They replaced the strut mount and never did it again.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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My van went from drive to 3rd gear while i was driving. and now its stuck in 3rd gear. its a 98 dodge caravan. i checked the transmission fluid it was full. how do i fix it?
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