I just had all 6 fuel injectors changed as they were rusted. But the 4 and 6 are still miss firing. I am going through gas more than I should. I had the EGR replaced as it was stuck open. I do not want to pour more big money into this thing. What can I do. Sea foam is not working. Could it be another problem. I am starting not to trust the mechanics.
View 12 RepliesI am having issues with my everyday driver as of late. I developed a misfire and replaced, plugs, coils, plug wires. Misfire persisted so we replaced, injectors, fuel rail. The misfire still was there and getting worse so we checked the engine mechanically for any burnt or bent valves and it checked out fine. We completed a compression test and all cylinders tested within 5 psi of each other. We finally replaced the ECU and Cam Sensor and the problem still is here. We do not know what else to do. I have narrowed down the misfire to cylinder one. The injector is not firing on this cylinder. I know this because when you unplug it there is no change in the engines behavior. As stated earlier, injectors are new, but i switched them out just to make sure it was a bad injector. I tested the lead and the voltage was appriopiate.
View 2 RepliesWhere can I purchase a distributor for a 2003 Dodge Neon SE?
The engine is running rough, the gas mileage has degraded, and the Check-Engine light is ON.We went to an AutoParts Store to have them read the car's computer output to tell us why the Check-Engine light is ON.The results said that the No. 4 Cylinder was not firing consistently.We replaced all four spark plugs and the spark plug wires. It ran a little better but the Check-Engine light is still ON and the engine still runs rough. I think we should replace the distributor or maybe just the distributor cap (if possible?).
Lost braking power. Replaced master cylinder. Brakes went soft again. Shop says it is something to do with the ABS Control Unit (?). Took it to dealer who said it is a leaking master cylinder. Back to shop which claims nothing wrong with new master cylinder and it i the ABS blah blah. Dealer says it can't be ABS. Went to another shop. Replaced master cylinder again. Brakes still soft. No one can figure this out and I am stuck with very soft brakes.
View 5 Replies2012 dodge caravan. Bought it used last year with 27k miles. Day after I bought it, it threw a misfire code. They said the spark plugs got wet when they washed the under carriage. Dried it out, cleared the code.
For the next month the car went from a slight shimmy during idle...progressed to strong shaking (its shakes, pauses, shakes...etc.) Finally another misfire code. Took it in and this is what the report says.
"Cylinder misfire on #4. Performed compression test found #4 cylinder compression at 100 PSI. All other cylinders at 150 PSI. Recommend to replace front cylinder head. Has burned exhaust valve seat. Replaced left cylinder head assembly."
About 2 months later check engine light comes on, car is over heating. Coolant bone dry. Replaced coolant, took it back in. They replaced the intake manifold?? Been slowly losing coolant. I have to replace it about every 2-3 months. I notice the car shakes worse when the coolant is low, with minimal shaking when coolant is replaced. Finally took it back in a few week ago when my husband got back from deployment. They said it was a loose bolt on the intake manifold causing the slow leak. They couldn't verify my complaint about the shaking.
Now, car still shaking. Its minimal on start up, gets worse the longer I idle. I can only feel the shaking while in idle. If I restart the car it goes back to minimal before progressing again. Took it back in. They verified the shaking, hooked it up to a computer, no codes or anything. Told me its normal. It CANT be normal, right? I neglected to check the coolant level before I took it back in. I left it with them saying they will look it over, but they don't think anything is wrong. This is exactly how it progressed when they ended up replacing the cylinder head. I have 1k miles left on the warranty, and am moving in 2 weeks 1500 miles away. I don't have time to wait for another code.
Happened a few times on me lately. While pulling towards the top of 5th, I'll start to see the check engine light briefly blink as if the car wasn't sure, then at the top of 5th, she'll start misfiring on cyl 2 and 5. It's only during the long haul pulls that this occurs. My plugs and coils were all changed about 1k miles ago.
View 17 RepliesGoing up a hill this LS started shuddering and misfiring and set the po302 code. A small push on the accelerator sometimes seems to temporarily remedy the issue. This started about a week ago. fuel mileage : 26 mpg highway
Here's the readings I got at idle:
Fuel pressure is KOEO - 0 (That's what it read.); KOER - 30.
MAF - about 70
LT FUEL TRIM 1 - 5.5
ST FUEL TRIM 1 - STAYS NEGATIVE
LT FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 11 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 21 - STAYS NEGATIVE
O2 1 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S12 - STAYS ABOVE .500
O2 S21 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S22 - STAYS ABOVE .500
Not familiar with this vehicle...
I have a 2008 Touareg 2, V8, 4.2L.
I bought it used (~95k miles) and almost immediately had an issue. #5 is misfiring. Since then, it has been in the shop 10-12 times with no resolution. Here is what I have done so far:
Put in all new plugs/coils sent the ECU to SIA electronics in Chicago for testing - no errors replaced the injector with a new injector on #5swapped #1 for #5 (plugs/coils)checked the harness (dealership said they did this, but not sure if they did or are just tired of me)
Through all this, #5 is still misfiring. The dealership is out of options, suggesting that the ECU is faulty and needs to be replaced ($1600) or they need to swap the #5 injector with #1 to see if that is the issue (~$1000+). Neither of these options sound reasonable because a) the ECU was already tested and b) the injector is brand new, yet the exact problem (#5 misfire) has persisted before and after the injector replacement.
My dad has 2006 passat 2.0T. In December 2010 he went overseas. During his absence the car was parked in garage and not in use.
So one day I decided to start the car and as soon as I turned it on the car made this noise and check engine light came on. Took the car to a private repair shop and found out the cylinder #3 was misfiring. The tune up for this car was due so I had all four spark plugs changed and the car ran fine for few days. Then couple of days later it started making the same sound and this time around the coil for cylinder #3 was replaced.
A few days after that check engine light came back and this time it was blinking and the engine was struggling to run, took it again to the workshop yesterday and this time another coil not sure which cylinder was replaced. (all this is done at a private workshop). I have a hunch that the car is going to run fine for a day or so and the problem is going to come back
I never had any major issues with it up until now. Bought this car new in 2006 from dealer. I am afraid that this might be a start of a downhill roll from here on I will drive the car tomorrow and see how it reacts.
I've done just about everything me or my mechanic cannot figure out why cylinder #3 is misfiring has new plugs coilpacks checked wires etc. I love this car and will not put it to sleep!!
View 2 RepliesThe car already has a cel even though I just bought it. Drove home from work this morning had no problems, went to go shopping no problem, come out start my car and it won't idle right, problem. The Cel flashed at me and once driven a tiny bit stayed constant. Seems like a cylinder is misfiring because of the sound it makes and it is hesitant when you give it some gas. What could it be, coil packs (which is what is was in my 24v) MAF, spark plugs?
View 22 RepliesMy 1988 240DL is miss firing #4 cylinder. I cannot get it to fire. this is what I have done:
Swapped plug wires with the #3 wire. Miss fire does not follow the wire
Swapped plugs with #1 plug. Miss fire does not follow the plug
Tested injector power with a tester and it lights up properly
Replaces #4 injector with a new one, still miss fires.
Replaced cap and rotor
Compression test shows 150 LB in #4
sworn and thrown a few tools, still miss fires.
Spark seems good with the plug out and grounded on the block. What else should I test and or try...
I have a 2001 golf with a 2.0 AVH engine. I recently replaced the coil-pack and was very pleased that the engine was running better, the only problem was the mpg was still kinda low in the 24-5 range when it used to be 29.
I tried to do a compression test but I didn't prepare properly, I thought you left the coil pack plugged in and the fuel fuse. Now I have a CEL that *was* flashing saying cylinder one is misfiring though it has stopped flashing. I drove it 13 miles home and it did improve but its still running rough. Very reminiscent of when my bad coil pack was still in there, a real lack of power.
So I have to ask, what can I do from here? Have I damaged my coil pack or cylinders? Will this likely go away on its own? Is there anything I should do?
I used fuel injector cleaner in two different gas tanks; the car started shaking and the check engine light came on. The mechanic changed a sensor but the car was doing the same; I was told that it will take 4 full gas tanks to clean the gas lines. I went to autozone and they told me that the car had a misfire on cylinder 5 and multiple misfire as well. I do not trust the mechanic any more since I had to take the car back to them several times and still is not fixed. They also did a full tune up and the check engine light still on and flashes when I am going about 55 mph.
View 3 RepliesChanged the spark plugs now I have misfire in cylinders 3 and 6. Do I change the spark plug wires or the coil pack?
View 5 RepliesHad a misfire in cylinder 1 so I put new plugs and wires. Still misfired. Changed fuel injector. Still misfired. Changed ignition coil and misfire on cylinder 1 is gone now cylinder 2 and 3 are misfiring. I double checked wires and they are properly installed.
View 11 RepliesThis has been happening intermittently for a while now. The car has about 97k on it and I within the last 1000 miles have replace the timing belt, water pump, coolant temp sensor, tensioners, thermostat, and MAF (OEM BOSCH from ECS).
The car was overheating; all the cooling/timing related stuff was changed, no issues for a few weeks. Then it started misfiring and stalling like a madman in cyls 2 and 3. Ran ran if for the code pulled the MAF and sure enough it looks like the PO never cleaned it as there were probably 2mm of buildup on it; as preventative maintenance I went ahead and just replaced it completely.
Now, less than a week after I replaced the MAF the car will make random little popping noises under hard acceleration, and randomly will just completely stall; without showing the battery or check engine lights, similar to how it was stalling right before the MAF went bad. I live three miles from my office and it has happened going to and from every day for the past two weeks.
As far as I know the car is mostly stock (I purchased in in March). However it does have a knockoff BPV of some sort that I think could be causing the issue as the popping noise sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the car. What this might be (if it's not the BPV).
My '04 v6 wagon 100K will misfire in really damp conditions. Last fall after going through a massive puddle and today after sitting for a couple of days of warm damp foggy & rainy New England spring weather. OBDII scanner is reporting cylinder 3 as the one misfiring in the fall, today there were a ton of codes (that I didn't note).
So I made it about 2 miles from the house and had to turn back. No power, check light flashing. I had to put it in manual and keep the revs highish (3-4K). When I got home the exhaust manifold was glowing yellow, assuming one or more cylinders were passing fuel out to the exhaust and it was being burnt off in the manifold.
My question: could I have damaged any gaskets back there? This could be my imagination but I think I'm hearing a new noise that I'd normally attribute to an exhaust leak downstream of the muffler, very subtle - like a gentle light but rapid thud. I only hear this noise with my ear to in the front driver's wheel well. There's no ticking noise I normally attribute to leaks near the manifold. My imagination or is it easy to damage something in the circumstances I describe?
I recently bought a 2000 jetta vr6 MK4 and since i have had it its had a misfire problem. So its saying that its misfiring in "cylinder 1" and sometimes when I clear the code it will stay off for the whole day. I did everything I could think of. I replaced all the spark plugs. I replaces the plug wires. Then i bought I new coilpack. and its still misfiring.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 Chevy blazer 4.3L 4 wheel drive. 4 of the 6 cylinders are misfiring and the car has completely lost power. Before this issue occurred it was running fine and the next morning when I went to start it the car was turning over and wouldn't start. My dad and uncle believe it's a distributor or computer issue but I would like other opinions about this issue.....
View 3 RepliesCEL came on and the report says #2 cylinder misfiring. Changed plugs, wires and coil. Last step was to change the #2 fuel injector. I changed the 2nd injector from the left but I'm still getting the same message. I was wondering if maybe they aren't numbered that way. It's a 2004 Jetta with Car engine: 2.0L L4 SOHC 8V. Did I change the wrong injector?
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