The "check engine soon" light appeared yesterday on this nice running 1997 van with 167K. An auto parts store code check indicated a problem with the oxygen sensor. Is this something I can replace myself--a lightweight shade tree mechanic? I never seem to have any luck asking questions on the Mopar website.
View 10 RepliesI recently bought my new (For me) R32, the first owner of the car remove the 2 catalyst from the car and now I have the check engine light on. When my friend put the vagcom on the car it shows an oxygen sensor fault. What can I do to fix this? can I just buy a MagnaFlow exhaust?
View 11 RepliesI own a 2000 Toyota Camry that was given to me by my father. The check engine light illuminated last year so I brought the car in to my mechanic. He said it was the o2 sensor and changed it. That lasted about a month , and the light went on again. This time it had to do with some valves that get stuck open (or closed) but also had to do with the amount of oxygen that goes into the carburetor . I asked my Dad if he had this problem, and he told me that the engine light was illuminated often, that he had brought the car in about 6 times, but nothing was found. Previously I owned a 1998 Camry, and had the same problem; the check engine light illuminates, the diagnosis is the oxygen sensor, that gets changed, the light goes on again, this valve thing gets changed but the light goes on again in a month. I can't get the car inspected with the engine light illuminated. The light always goes back on but nothing else is found wrong with the vehicle. I really know nothing about cars.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Corolla with a Check Engine light on. The Toyota dealer diagnosed this as: "Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 - slow to respond".
The diagnostic code is PO133. Elsewhere, I find that this code indicates:
The oxygen sensor is faulty.
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed.
There is an exhaust leak
Haven't noticed exhaust leakage, and I doubt the wiring is faulty.
1) Where is sensor 1?
2) Do I really need a new sensor, or can I clean the old one?
P0032 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
I have read that in 2005 chrysler changed the ohms levels for the oxygen sensors and may need to have bcm reflashed to get a new oxygen sensor to work wheither its dealer item or not, is this true if i were to buy a mopar oxygen sensor? aftermarket is out of the question being the ohm readings would require me to spend some time at the dealer. is this code a defective sensor? or could it be related to the thermostat being faulty? am not low on antifreeze and temp gauge reads normal.
I have a '99 durango with ~45000 miles. Recently it has been breaking down on me. I feel it lose power until it dies all together. After about 20 minutes it will start again. This has happened 5 times. When it happened today, I was going about 30 mph, when I felt it lose power. The speedometer went to '0" - the 'check engine light came on', the 'fuel pump' light came on (like it does when you run out of gas), then I had this odd message on the odometer that said "NO BUS".
This time I had it towed w/o trying to crank it with the hopes they can get a code. I told them about the "no bus" message but they did not seem to know anything about it. I have found this mentioned on a few bulletins boards but not with much info.
I own a stock 2008 Prius.
My car didn't move for 1-2 months so I needed a boost this morning. I noticed there's the check engine light on and a red triangle.
Also, the car won't go on electric mode.
I have a 2002 Prius that needs work. The red triangle, PS, and check engine light are all on. It has these codes:
P3100 - 175 (HV ECU internal error. Motor Inverter Current Sensor Malfunction)
p3125 - 287 (Motor Inverter Finv. Inverter Internal Short)
c1259 (HV System Regenerative Malfunction)
I suspect the inverter or even worse the MG2 has burnt windings.
BTW the "infamous" inverter pump seems to be working. I can hear it and see the fluid in the reservoir move.
I suspect it is more a symptom than a problem and will disappear when the real problem is fixed.
Started up our 2010 RX 350 and there was loud knocking. This smoothed out after several seconds. I stopped engine and started it again. This time the knocking was less severe, but now the Check Engine light is on. Engine seems to be running a little rough as well. I have a feeling I have a bad plug or wire maybe.
View 2 RepliesI was just driving and the engine check light appeared. The screen says Emission workshop. its a 2001 B5 passat V6 Manual. I used a code reader and it read P1120 and P0154. Are these codes serious? Can I still drive around? What should I do?
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 2006 prius. It had 2 bad cells in the battery pack. I replaced the cells and all seems to be well, they all read the same voltage and the car appears to be driving, charging, working.
I still have the red exclamation mark and check engine light. The only code I get says to replace hybrid battery pack.
There are no other specific codes or issues and it runs perfect. Basically I guess what I am asking is how to clear the light or figure out why the light is still on!
I have a 2005 honda odyssey van and the oxygen sensor light keeps coming on.
View 5 RepliesWhere the fuse that controls oxygen sensors on a 1997 pontiac grand prix 3.8L engine? i read some where it is under hood fuse panel, but what is the marking for the fuse?
View 2 RepliesMy check engine light came on today and while driving, the idle (RPM's) were very high. At about 80KMs, it was about 3500 and when I accelerated, the engine would race along with the RPMs. While stopped, idling seems fine. I couldn't get over 80KMs/Hr without the idle going too high.
What it could be? Haven't had time to check codes as it is long weekend and garages are now closed till tuesday.
I was able to quickly diagnose the problem with our 99 T&C LXi w/3.8L.
Problem: No speedometer, wouldn't shift, check engine light came on.
Many posts suggested speed sensor. There are actually 2 of them. An input and an output. Both cost approx $20 each.
By removing the aircleaner box assembly, I had the best (relative word) access to the sensors. A 1" socket w/3" extension did the trick. I understand the access for 2000+ models is different.
I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
I recently had my Hyundai Entourage (2008) come up with the following engine codes: P0057 and P0037, both related to the downstream oxygen sensors. The generic description of the code is heated oxygen sensor heater control circuit low. As I understand this code, it is signaling that there is too much current passing through the heater circuit. The oxygen sensors test out OK for resistance, around 10 Ohms each and disconnecting them entirely and rerunning the test after driving a few times yields the same code. So I suspect the issue is not with the sensors but either the wiring or the ECU. I'd be a little surprised at a sudden short in the wires for both sensors but I suppose stranger things have happened. Oh and the fuse for the oxygen sensors has not blown. I am correct in reading these codes to mean there is an apparent short? Or are there any other things that could cause this to happen?
View 3 RepliesI have a 96 Grand Voyager that had had sat for a year undriven or started due to being out of state. It ran like a champ when I parked it. Now I charged the battery and went for a drive on the freeway and my check engine light came on and started blinking. I had the code read it came back with 2 codes a P0306 and a P0300. I noticed that the cylinder 6 spark plug wire was arcing on the core support. So I replaced all the plug wires and spark plugs with Champion platinum spark plugs. I cleared the codes and took it on a test drive and the P0300 code came back. Is there anyway the old gas is causing the random misfire? or what else could it be?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
View 11 RepliesMy Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
View 1 Replies