Dodge - Caravan :: 2012 - Shakes During Idle / Cylinder Head And Intake Manifold Replaced
May 16, 2014
2012 dodge caravan. Bought it used last year with 27k miles. Day after I bought it, it threw a misfire code. They said the spark plugs got wet when they washed the under carriage. Dried it out, cleared the code.
For the next month the car went from a slight shimmy during idle...progressed to strong shaking (its shakes, pauses, shakes...etc.) Finally another misfire code. Took it in and this is what the report says.
"Cylinder misfire on #4. Performed compression test found #4 cylinder compression at 100 PSI. All other cylinders at 150 PSI. Recommend to replace front cylinder head. Has burned exhaust valve seat. Replaced left cylinder head assembly."
About 2 months later check engine light comes on, car is over heating. Coolant bone dry. Replaced coolant, took it back in. They replaced the intake manifold?? Been slowly losing coolant. I have to replace it about every 2-3 months. I notice the car shakes worse when the coolant is low, with minimal shaking when coolant is replaced. Finally took it back in a few week ago when my husband got back from deployment. They said it was a loose bolt on the intake manifold causing the slow leak. They couldn't verify my complaint about the shaking.
Now, car still shaking. Its minimal on start up, gets worse the longer I idle. I can only feel the shaking while in idle. If I restart the car it goes back to minimal before progressing again. Took it back in. They verified the shaking, hooked it up to a computer, no codes or anything. Told me its normal. It CANT be normal, right? I neglected to check the coolant level before I took it back in. I left it with them saying they will look it over, but they don't think anything is wrong. This is exactly how it progressed when they ended up replacing the cylinder head. I have 1k miles left on the warranty, and am moving in 2 weeks 1500 miles away. I don't have time to wait for another code.
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I have a fudged-up looking oil leak that my oil change guy says is probably a blown intake manifold gasket. Is this the same as a head gasket? I thought a head gasket was around the pistons. I see there is a product on the market that you can put into your radiator that plugs up leaks in the head gasket (Steel something). Is this an OK fix? It would cost $90 for a bottle of the stuff. And what is a reasonable, or low, rate to replace this gasket? And, how long can I drive the car with this condition? It has lost a quart of oil in the past month, driving about 600 miles.
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Some technical issues here. Had the intake manifold replaced under extended warranty ('09 2.0 TSI, 115,000km); they cleaned out the carbon as well. There were all sorts of codes it was throwing, despite having new coils and plugs installed.
One more thing to do. I still have Crank Position Sensor code showing. Car runs fine (much better now actually),but I was told if I don't get this last code looked after, one day the car just won't start.
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Can oil leak out of Intake Manifold? i have Oil around lower intake manifold gasket. is this serious issue?
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I recently took my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T in b/c the check engine light was on. They initially replaced a leaking valve and a bad ignition coil, but the car was still misfiring on cylinder 3. They took off the intake manifold and found that there was significant carbon build up. The service writer said it was from "low-quality" gas. The car requires 91 octane. I've used 93 octane since 2007 but started using 89 octane around 6 months ago when the gas prices spiked again. Could 6 months of 89 octane cause significant carbon build up to the point it would trip the check engine light? Or could something else have caused it that I need to watch out for?
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Check engine light computer scan indicates intake manifold runner control valve stuck open. Will it damage the car to drive it in this condition and what does fixing it entail?
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I'm getting oil and fuel into the intake manifold every couple hundred miles. Oil level is in the middle of low and full mark. It's not like it's a huge amount of oil and fuel in the intake but it's enough to make the car misfire, bog out. Only codes I'm getting are misfire codes for all cylinder and reduce engine power code (forgot what code it actually is) but that's when the car completely shuts down and won't start with red triangle light. If I clean the intake out and unplug the battery for a few min I'm able to start the car again, but it will run really rough and white smoke will start to come out the exhaust (gas smell). I'm wondering if a bad maf would cause this. I've already cleaned it but still doing same thing. Don't really know what the specs or reading the bad is suppose to be so I'm kinda stuck to determined if I need a maf or not. Cars got about 242K miles.
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I have a chamfering noise coming from my intake manifold on idle. sometimes its there and sometimes its not, it goes away with any application of throttle.
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I just had all 6 fuel injectors changed as they were rusted. But the 4 and 6 are still miss firing. I am going through gas more than I should. I had the EGR replaced as it was stuck open. I do not want to pour more big money into this thing. What can I do. Sea foam is not working. Could it be another problem. I am starting not to trust the mechanics.
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Well my 39000 mile run of zero faults ended with a intake manifold failure. The check engine light came on whilst on a Yosemite trip, I checked fluids, etc, car was driving ok, but when I reached my destination I noticed a rough idle. Next time I started it a couple of days later the check engine light was flashing, and it was a rougher idle, so I knew enough not to drive it.
The closest dealer fixed it (no cost to me) under the power-train warranty (nice customer care from Michaels Fresno plus they had the parts in stock).
I learned a couple of things being stranded:
1) Problems happen but they can be accurately diagnosed and fixed.
2) $150 coverage for towing on my insurance policy doesn't get you very far. But I wanted to take it to VW to simplify any warranty work and have it repaired quickly, so I paid quite a bit of overage.
3) Tow trucks don't carry a family of 4, so the logistics of getting a rental car to get my family home wasn't simple.
4) If you have to be stranded, Yosemite valley with the free shuttles, is a pleasant place to be.
5) If you need a reminder just how good a car the Tig is to drive, just try renting a Jeep Compass for few days...
Diags for the record:
GFF found 9 faults: P0170, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P068A, P2015. Found arm for intake runner flap came apart causing vacuum leak that caused engine misfires.
Parts
1 x 06J-133-201-AS Manifold
4 x 06J-998-907-B Repair Kit
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I was in the process of troubleshooting a quick to die battery tonight (ignition on and if you put a load on it like radio and headlights, a few minutes later it needs the booster pack. ) During this time I discovered a loud buzzing coming from the top part of the intake manifold (ignition on but engine not running.) As my battery drains, this noises this thing makes change. I started the car up and let it run for a sec, then back off/ignition back on and it stopped buzzing.
On a side note, the car has been idling like dump for the last month or so. Sometimes it's smooth as silk as it always has been when stopped at a light, other times you can feel a rapid vibration in the steering wheel, seats, and floor. To the point where stuff rattles sometimes. It's definitely at its worst when the engine is cold. I was hoping it was worn out plugs, but they've just been replaced and it still doesn't run right.
Linked is a video, hopefully it works. Is this the IAC valve?
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Lost braking power. Replaced master cylinder. Brakes went soft again. Shop says it is something to do with the ABS Control Unit (?). Took it to dealer who said it is a leaking master cylinder. Back to shop which claims nothing wrong with new master cylinder and it i the ABS blah blah. Dealer says it can't be ABS. Went to another shop. Replaced master cylinder again. Brakes still soft. No one can figure this out and I am stuck with very soft brakes.
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I am checking my car parameters at idle. I was comparing the values of intake manifold pressure and vacuum. When I press accelerator or give gas means throttle plate opening my manifold pressure decreases and vacuum increases, I hear when throttle plate open more air come inside so manifold pressure must be increases and vacuum decreases. Am I right? if so which part will be culprit of this action?
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Was driving home just now when my car (2003 Dodge Caravan SE) started acting strange. Stopped at a light, it started going back and forth a little, like the transmission was stopping and starting. As I drove I noticed that it kept doing that when I had the accelerator pressed slightly. When I pressed the accelerator more fully, the problem seemed to mostly (not completely) go away.
When I got home (after driving like that for about 2 miles), it seemed worse. When I stopped the car and had it idling in Park, the engine died. I was able to restart the engine, but it seemed like it was having trouble staying on (though it did for a minute or two until I turned it off).
When I got out of the car, I noticed a bad smell coming from the engine, like burning. Also noticed a loud sound, like knocking. My first thought was that I didn't have any oil. So I checked the oil and the transmission fluid. Both were fine. After about an hour I restarted the car, and it wasn't doing it anymore. Maybe because the car had cooled down?
What this might be or what else I can check?
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I have an engine noise on my 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 engine. It sounds a lot like the grinding of a rotating part. It occurs at start up, momentarily, then goes away. If I drop it in gear and start doing low speed maneuvering in the driveway, it comes back. If I turn on the AC it comes back. In all cases, the noise goes away at around 1200 rpm.
The noise occurs again, when I shut the engine down.The engine performs and runs smooth and normal otherwise. No stalling, stumbling, or bad gas mileage to report.
I can "feel" the noise with my hand, when I put my hand on the ac compressor bracket, or the intake manifold, or the valve cover. I've tried the listening through the stick method, and it seems to be coming from the front area of the engine. But I can't be sure. It is something internal. Let me describe:
I thought it was my AC compressor or clutch going bad. The fact that my AC had stopped working well, and was making jet engine noises at high rpm supported me decide this. I replaced the compressor. The AC works great now, and the jet engine noises went away. But the grinding noise is still there. As described.
I wishfully thought it was the belt tensioner or idler pulley. I replaced both of those. Noise still was there. I pulled off the serpentine belt, and started the engine. It made the noise, very briefly as it started, then went away completely. It made the noise again briefly as I shut the motor off. So it's still there without any of the accessories turning.
The noise is loud and obnoxious at idle when under load. It just can't be good. I've read theories about similar sounding problems, saying they could be loose timing chain, bad oil pump, slapping pistons, crank journals, flexplate/flywheels cracked.
I'm going to try doing an oil system flush, and then I'll change it out with a little thicker oil. See if that makes any difference in the noise. Currently I'm running 5w-30 Mobile 1. I think. I'll let you know if it changes anything. I'm also thinking I want to make a short video of the car idling and making the noise for my video camera. I'll post that on youtube and link it here.
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I have a 2012 dodge caravan bought new. After about 6000 miles the left rear brake began making a grinding noise, only when applied, every time the car sat more than a few hours, that goes away after about 2-3 miles. It began in winter and continues into the warm and dry days of spring now with 9000 miles total. Had it to dealer twice and inspection found no malfunction so they say its from rust build up because it goes away all the time and is nothing to worry about. It does not occur with the other wheels. My niece has the same van, in same geographic area and does not have this problem. Does this selective rust build up explanation make sense? Previously burned with bad brakes on a caravan, so am skeptical.
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I just replaced fuel pump and tps on my 1989 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl truck. Now it idles rough and the check engine light came on. I have removed battery cable to reset computer but did no good. What could be the problem now? I have since replaced the plug wires and distrib cap and it is flashing 3 5 5 twice now?
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Today I was on my way back home from a weekend trip to see family when the CEL came on. The car was running fine no problems (we had driven 200 miles). Gas mileage was good, good power, no weird noises, engine temp was fine (it was 100 degrees outside). But being how the car has 39k on it and its the most expensive thing I own; I pulled over and had autozone scan it for me. It came up as Intake Manifold Sensor. I have never worked on this car but Im going to at some point, I'll replace it myself if it isn't to hard. I am wondering if it is as simple as replacing the sensor or could there be an underlying issue like a blown intake manifold gasket (like i said the car was running fine though)?
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Turned the key on my 2002 MC SS, V6, 3.8L, and the Intake Manifold exploded.
Intake Manifold Exploding on a GM V6, 3.8L? It sounded like a 12ga shotgun. Fortunately no one was looking into the engine compartment at the time as they likely would have been killed given the amount of shrapnel from this explosion. Note that the explosion was powerful enough to blow off the oil cap, which is screwed on with very thick threads.
The vehicle was at my mechanics at time and in his forty years he's not seen an intake manifold explode save for those residing on Top Fuel or Funny Cars.
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One of the nozzles on the back of my intake manifold broke off. I don't know how to better explain it. The ones the back of the manifold closest to the firewall there are several hoses that hook to the manifold. The second one from the left broke.
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I'm having a problem with the intake manifold shifter not working on my r32. I've tried all of the normal fixes, the shifter rod itself and the vacuum diaphragm that opens it are both functioning correctly, all of the vacuum lines are new and not leaking. Connecting vacuum directly to the diaphragm causes the shifter to immediately open. I've tried 3 different solenoids with the same result, all open when 12v is directly applied, but the manifold doesn't open at it's RPM point like it's supposed to. The solenoid sees a constant ~11v under all conditions, regardless of engine RPM. I've traced this wire back to the ECU and confirmed it's not damaged. No CEL other than for the SAI missing.
At this point, I'm assuming whatever circuit that controls this in the ECU is fried (cruise control doesn't work either.) I have an extra 24v vr6 (2.8) ECU sitting around which from what I've read uses the same hardware, just a different flash. This may be a stupid question, but if I were to take this to UM to get a performance flash, would I be able to basically overwrite the 2.8 ECU and make this work in the R? Would there be any issues with the immobilizer?
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