Dodge - Caravan :: 2008 - Back AC Works Great But Front Air Randomly Turns Off And On
Sep 18, 2013
My 2008 Dodge Caravan SXT is having A/C problems. The back air works great, all the time...however, the front air randomly turns off and on. It doesn't matter what speed I'm going, what speed the knob is turned to (low vs. high), it just stops blowing. When I'm driving at a faster speed I can feel the cold air barely coming through the vents, but doesn't change when I move the knob. All along, the back A/C works perfectly. I've looked online and found a lot of things about the resistor, blower motor, fuse and WIN module. How I can narrow it down without paying the dealership an arm and a leg to fix things that might not even be the issue?
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Having problem with left turn signal problem on my 2005 Dodge Caravan. It only works sometimes, so I don't think it's a problem with the bulb. I read elsewhere that it could be a problem with the flasher module but how to find this on my van. What I should check for first and how/where to find it on my van?
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Ok, this has happened to me and my wife while driving. During braking, once in a while the engine will shut off for a split second then turn right back on without me doing anything. We only have 1 other key on the key ring with the ignition key. Also the inside lights (dashboard/radio) flicker once in a while. The alternator is charging 14 volts, the battery checks out. When it shut off while my wife was driving she noticed the instrument panel lights came on for a second (like when you start the car {abs-check engine- temp- all the warning lights}) and the instruments bounced all the way up then down (also like when you first start the car)...
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I have an 02' Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 (not flex fuel) .I have replaced the battery, alternator, sparkplugs/wires, fuel pump, fuel filter. All over time and now when i try to start the van it turns over strong sometimes starting then stalls out immediately. When I try to crank it sounds like metal on metal. Check engine light stays on,but i dont have an OBD reader.
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I have a 2003 dodge grand caravan with about 111,000 miles on it. Overall it has been a reliable car. In the past month we had to replace the ECM because the computer died on the car. Now, very intermittently, while driving at about 60 mph the car will suddenly drop to 40 mph then shoot right back to where it was at 60. This only happens for about a second and then its fine.
Its quite startling but it has only happened to us 3 times in the past two weeks, so its very hard to replicate. There are no engine codes and it seems like the tachometer does not change during this sudden drop, although to be honest I wasn't paying that close attention to it when it happened.
Could it be related to the recent ECM replacement? The dealer "reprogrammed" the computer so I'm assuming all parts electrically have been checked.
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My front suspension has been making some noise for a while now, and lately has been getting worse. So I want to replace whatever the problem is, but having trouble figuring it out. Everything looks ok, and the methods I researched aren't giving any clues. The one question I Have is, should I be able to move any of the parts by hand? There are two that I can wiggle back and forth pretty easily, but I don't know if this is normal or not. One is a thin vertical piece parallel to the strut, the other is behind the wheel and low in the back (a tie rod?). Don't know the part names, have worked on my vehicles for a long time but never the suspension.
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1997 Ford Econoline HD Club Wagon E350 2wd 250k 6.8l V-10 Factory front and rear air, rear evap is there but all other components were removed from previous owner to use as a work van.
Air works great other than at idle it warms up some, not a real big issue at the moment, and also has a small vac leak somewhere as under heavy throttle or towing any bog will change vents to defrost and floor. not a big deal at the moment.
My issue right now is I was driving yesterday down the interstate air on full blast freezing me real good (awesome at speed on these 100 degree days in NC) and all of a sudden ambient air, no more awesomeness.
I pulled over to take a quick look but was way too hot to sit on the side of the interstate and look further, got the ole girl home and looked at it today.
Compressor kicks on as it should, but all the lines stay the same no condensation, blend door is moving to adjust from any vents the control tells it to.
My question is if it was low on freon the compressor wouldnt kick on at all, and if its up and cycling correctly why aren't the lines becoming cold? the temp door is also working as with the van warm the air will blow hot then when i switch it back to cold it gets cool just not cold, temp of air around blower.
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So I replaced the stabilizer bushing on my 2005 Dodge Caravan, as there was a bit of clunking and some wobble in the front end. I'm sure there's more to do (other suspension parts to replace), but the bushings were obviously worn when I looked at them. The clunking is gone, and the suspension feels better, but now the bushings make a scrunching rubber sound when I drive over uneven pavement and also when I first accelerate. I assume its the stabilizer bar flexing, but also assume I shouldn't be hearing it. After all, who would want new noisy bushings? Nothing else is new on the front end (except rotors and pads).
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I have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with 58000 miles. The rear blower won't run with either the front controls or rear controls. I have checked the fuses and they looked ok.
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My 05 Caravan is in excellent shape with only 40k miles and noticed rust and paint bubbles only on the lower front side of the rear wheel well (drivers side). I live in Pa and wash the car after snow storms. Of course the car is out of rust warranty and the dealer said they can repair it but they do not know what causes it. I have seen this exact problem on other caravans and I have been told it is were the two pieces of metal are joined together, the wheel well seam, which causes the problem. We sealed the seam last fall with silicon when it was just paint bubbles and now it has gotten worse. My thinking is either we need to go back and look at the seam again as we only sealed the section that looked open or there is a leak from somewhere else in the van - the gas cap area or the area on the frame when the door is open is suspect to me. Basically I am asking if there is anywhere else I should look for this leak besides the wheel well seam?
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2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 - 250k miles had the original plugs and wires ....
First things first - I changed them one at a time and confirmed the truck started and ran after each one was changed. I changed all the plugs on the drivers side with no issue. 4,5,6 ... Then I changed plug 3, rear passenger side plug closet to the firewall.
Truck will not start, turns over great, but will not start. I have confirmed I am getting spark. No clue what could have changed, I just pulled out the old plug and wire put in a new one and it wouldn't start.
My father-in-law said if you have spark check fuel. I recall seeing a post about someone breaking a cable for the coil pack but i have checked and i see nothing broken.
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My 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
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I had to replace my swaybar links on my T&C due to it not passing state safety inspection. There was also some random noise that occasionally occurred on bumps. The tech said the "book" said to replace the strut and strut mounts but he could not see anything wrong. After replacing the swaybar links, there is now clunking while driving. I thought it was a lack of grease in the links but I greased them and while it got a little better...it still happens.
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In the process of purchasing 2008 600hl. Wondering if any of the 600 owners can tell me if you experience a light vibration in U-turns, mainly coming from the back? I just called the servicing dealer and the SA told me that he felt the same thing when he moved a 600 for a customer making sharp turns, explaining that this is normal from the electric motors. Is this true???
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2006 f-150 lariat 4wd:
The power Tailgate window works but the sunroof doesn't and i noticed tonight that the button for the tailgate window is illuminated green signifying it has power but the sunroof button right next to it is not illuminated. I just bought the truck yesterday and knew that the sunroof didn't work. i figured i could fix it i just am not sure where to start yet.
It looks like the sunroof might have leaked before and so the previous owner sealed it with silicone from the roof of the truck. i removed the silicone and made the sunroof free to open and close but i still have the issue that there is no power to the sunroof. i was thinking maybe the motor burned out because it couldn't move and that someone had tried to open it while it was glued shut, but that still doesn't explain the light not coming on.
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We have a 96 t&c. The turn signals only work once in a while. Sometimes they start to work and then freeze. Sometimes they don't work at the beginning of a ride and start to work 10 minutes into it. It seems quite random.
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I just got back from a deployment and my Dad changed out the battery on my 06 F150. He said it started up fine for him, but I tried and it powers up great but won't turn over. Everything electrical still works, but the engine doesn't even try to turn over.
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My 05 f150 is lift with a 6" skyjacker lift I've only had it a week from the dealership when it stopped firing on cylinder 8 which is a lil problem easy to fix,but then it started clunking around turns in the front and rear end. So I took it the dealer and 3 days later they give it back. It's running good but its still clunking in the front they said they changed the cv joints and tie rod ends but after I got home. I inspected it they changed one damn tie rod and that was it. Is it the tie rod end that's still making the noise?
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My 04 f150 has been sitting upwards in my drive way for a month now won't start cranks great with full power..
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Sone water from the air conditioner drains on the carpet on the right side of the car. The drain hose is open and water in draining from it. Where could I look to find the problem? It is a 2003 caravan
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We recently had some oil leaks fixed on my wife's 2002 Dodge Caravan. The oil light comes on whenever she stops at a stoplight. It seems like it comes on when the RPM drops to about 600 or 700 RPM and then goes off when RPM increases. Is this something to worry about? If so what needs to be fixed?
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