Dodge - Caravan :: 2000 - Power Door Actuator Is Noisy?
Nov 14, 2015
So I needed some electrical parts for the 2000 Caravan mostly the power door actuator is noisy and one vent window motor is shot. So I went to the local pull a part, paid $2 admission fee. Found my parts but no way to test them. Went to pay for them, they wanted to charge me $25 for each part, were not willing to have it returned in case it did not work, and did not have a battery for me to test them either. Is this the norm or should I have gone there with my oldest T-shirt? These parts sell probably for $45 to $80 new/on-line. I was trying to save money but felt if I end up buying the part again, it is essentially worse than just buying new.
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Blower, seats, locks, blinkers stopped simultaneously, abs and airbag light came on. The internet suggested it was the ignition switch, I changed it to no avail. The horn, wipers, 4-way flashers, headlights, taillights, and brake lights all work. Is my wife correct in suggesting we replace this 140,000 mile pile of rust?
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I have a 2000 Honda CRV, driver side door lock actuator has failed. Door is shut and will not open. I have pulled back the door panel enough to see the actuator and touch it. How can I get the door open to replace the actuator?
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Own a 2005 Carvan. Yesterday, the door warning light; the odometer; and the doom light came on and would not shut off. It's as if the car thinks one of the doors are ajar-they are not. We turned the doom light off but the battery went dead overnight-reading lights either came on or I didn't notice them. Is this a sensor problem that I can fix or try to fix. If not, what sort of problem is it and how much to repair. The day before this happened, my drivers side window was left open and rain came in on the door panel-if this has any bearing.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan. The door locks do not respond to the remote or the switch on the door. If I disconnect the battery for a few seconds, they will work for a day or two. It seems to be a computer problem. Is there only one? Where is it and are there any other tests I can do to troubleshoot this?
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I have a 2000 dodge caravan that has 290,000 miles on it. I don't want to put a lot of money into it.
Just recently I put in the anew alternator, then had some work done on the exhaust.
Immediately afterward, I had trouble starting it. My mechanic fixed a gas leak, then it would start sometimes, other times it would not start. Then different mechanic replaced a sensor. It started a few times and it is back to not starting again.
It makes an rrrrrr sound like it is getting some sparks, but it won't make the final start. The battery was tested, and jumping it with cables doesn't work. My brother and the tow truck driver thought it might be the fuel pump, which was replaced about a year ago.
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I have a 00 dodge caravan. Has always been a good van. Recently when I start it up first thing in the morning there is a puff of blue smoke come out of the exhaust. This will not show up again if you start the van up wth in an hour or so. If you leave it for 3 or more hours you will get a puff of blue smoke but not as much as the one after it has sat all night. What this might be????
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Drivers side not bowing hot air? We changed the blower motor and the resister on the passenger side. We hadn't tried to use the heat until last night when we needed the defrost and that's when we realized only heat on passenger side.
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I have an engine noise on my 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 engine. It sounds a lot like the grinding of a rotating part. It occurs at start up, momentarily, then goes away. If I drop it in gear and start doing low speed maneuvering in the driveway, it comes back. If I turn on the AC it comes back. In all cases, the noise goes away at around 1200 rpm.
The noise occurs again, when I shut the engine down.The engine performs and runs smooth and normal otherwise. No stalling, stumbling, or bad gas mileage to report.
I can "feel" the noise with my hand, when I put my hand on the ac compressor bracket, or the intake manifold, or the valve cover. I've tried the listening through the stick method, and it seems to be coming from the front area of the engine. But I can't be sure. It is something internal. Let me describe:
I thought it was my AC compressor or clutch going bad. The fact that my AC had stopped working well, and was making jet engine noises at high rpm supported me decide this. I replaced the compressor. The AC works great now, and the jet engine noises went away. But the grinding noise is still there. As described.
I wishfully thought it was the belt tensioner or idler pulley. I replaced both of those. Noise still was there. I pulled off the serpentine belt, and started the engine. It made the noise, very briefly as it started, then went away completely. It made the noise again briefly as I shut the motor off. So it's still there without any of the accessories turning.
The noise is loud and obnoxious at idle when under load. It just can't be good. I've read theories about similar sounding problems, saying they could be loose timing chain, bad oil pump, slapping pistons, crank journals, flexplate/flywheels cracked.
I'm going to try doing an oil system flush, and then I'll change it out with a little thicker oil. See if that makes any difference in the noise. Currently I'm running 5w-30 Mobile 1. I think. I'll let you know if it changes anything. I'm also thinking I want to make a short video of the car idling and making the noise for my video camera. I'll post that on youtube and link it here.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan SE 3.3L. The timing chain recently broke. So I replaced the timing set, cover, water pump, camshaft sensor, and oil pan. The timing is all aligned. It starts right up, but then stalls. Unplugged the front three spark plugs to see if one of those were the problem, and then it ran better and didn't stall out.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan that has 195,000 miles. My radiator fan won't turn on and I'm stumped! The issue presented itself with a check engine light and the radiator cooling fan not turning on. The trouble code indicated the cooling fan relay was faulty. In all cases below, I tested the radiator fan by turning on the air conditioning (thus forcing the cooling fans to run) and also for it to come up to a high temperature coming close to the danger zone.
1. Fuse - first tested the fuse and it was OK. Had to start with simple things first.
2. Cooling fan relay - I replaced the relay which has a reputation for failing on the Dodge. Still the fan did not kick in.
3. Cooling fans - tested the cooling fans and the motor was seized. Replaced the cooling fans and tested them by jumping them. The cooling fans still do not turn on. There is no voltage leaving the cooling fan relay and coming into the cooling fan harness.
4. Wiring - tested the wiring between the relay and the fans. They checked out OK (good continuity and resistance check). There is no voltage leaving the cooling fan relay. Now it's getting more complicated... I unplugged the wiring harness from the ECM and tested the wiring between the ECM and the cooling fan relay. A-OK.
5. ECM - it is unclear how to check the ECM for functionality of the cooling fan.
There are 3 wires (supply, ground, and switch wire?) The supply voltage and ground is good, but I don't know what voltage the switch wire should be. I've read that it is pulse width modulated so I can't measure this with a simple voltmeter. I've also read that the switch wire goes to ground thus triggering the relay. I don't know which is correct. Several mechanics I talked to were skeptical that the issue is with the ECM, they knew of very few instances of this being the culprit. I even replaced the new cooling fan relay with another new cooling fan relay on the off chance that the replacement was faulty. Did I miss something in my logic and diagnostics? I've resorted to wiring a switch directly to the cooling fans and toggling them on and off.
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I had my car power steering lush at a repair shop! Unfortunately, power steering is too noisy (lot of air trapped). The mechanic fixed right away at the time I picked up my vehicle but still had some noisy, he suggested I drove for few days to get the air out. After a week driving and the air still trapped. I brought my vehicle back to the shop and had the mechanic fixed again! and this time I got power steering leak when I drove home! I returned to the shop and he said he replaced both bad power steering hoses. Noise was gone (engine was at operating temperature).
My power steering is still noisy at a touch of turning steering wheel (not even turn the vehicle), it's noisy when engine first started regardless the temperature outside. I drive my car for few blocks and the noise goes away. I won't bring my car back to the shop anymore, they may make it worse. Logical thinking, I think either the air still trapped deep inside the steering system or the O-rings at hose ends are defective. When engine is cold O-ring is cold and shrink, it does not seal properly and when it reaches operating temperature, O-ring expands and seals properly. That's my thinking, of course, I can be easily wrong. There's no power steering leak to the floor!
Will those after market power steering seal additives like Lucas 10008 and other fix my vehicle power steering issue? is there something I can do at home to fix this?
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2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS
I'm trying to troubleshoot my inoperable power door locks. The door panel button doesn't lock or unlock any of the doors. Fuse #15 appears to be good so I'm trying to test the actuator.
I've removed the door panel and I can see where the actuator is located but I'm stumped as to how to remove it.
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2012 Prius C Trim 2. Title says it all. Luckily, I had purchased an extended warranty back in 2013 when you could still purchase them from Toyota dealerships online so it didn't cost me anything.
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I have a 2014 Camry SE with 35k miles. About six weeks ago the drivers side front power door lock actuator failed and was replaced by the dealer under warranty. Last week the front passenger side actuator failed and was replaced. Today, both rear door lock actuators stopped working.
I searched the forums and didn't find anything like this happening to other owners. It sounds like I have something burning up the actuators. I am very concerned because the new car warranty is up in less than 1000 miles and I could have an electrical problem on my hands. The actuators that have been replaced seem to be working fine. How I can handle this?
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I have a '03 elantra. The drivers side power door lock actuator went out. Haven't had much luck locating one on-line. Really don't want to go to the stealership. front and rear doors are the same? I would swap them out, since I seldom use the rear doors.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan, modified for use for someone in a wheelchair. On two occasions now I have been driving and have lost ALL power, including all dashboard lights, signals, power steering and power brakes. Luckily both times I was able to pull over without much problem (aside from problems steering and having to mash really hard on the brakes). Turned off the motor, restarted, and everything seemed fine. The first time this happened I took it to my mechanic who said he was unable to duplicate the problem. The second time this happened (yesterday) was after a severe rainstorm. I can't remember what the weather was like the first time it happened.
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I have a 2001 T&C, 3.3L, 4-Speed tranny and around 116K Miles. On occasion, I totally lose power steering for about a second or two. It acts like the engine has stalled and I have to muscle the steering wheel. There no belt squealing, no pump noise, and the serpentine belt is relatively new. PS Fluid level is good. It seems to happen at idle RPM.
Of all the caravans I've had, this is a first.
Now, I'm OK with it as long as I don't let anyone else drive it. I know what to expect, and I can muscle the steering when necessary. Once this happened to my on a highway offramp and I was able to control it with no problems. I suspect it is a problem with the rack, maybe?
My question is this: Is this an indication of something going terribly bad, like the total loss of steering control?
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My drivers side window hates the cold, getting slower as the temperature drops. When it's real cold it gets to the point where it only goes up a fraction of an inch and stops, then I have to wait a minute and try again. I find that grabbing it and pulling while I hit the switch works a little. So I've researched the problem a bit. Don't think the rails need silicone lube as some suggest. I've seen one guy tap the window motor with a screwdriver, and a post about somehow getting to the brushes and cleaning them. I'm thinking just replace the motor, but it seems odd that it's temperature related.
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2005 Dodge Caravan losing power; code read catalytic converter, so replaced but it is still doing same thing. Will drive fine some days, others it loses power or sometimes accelerates when stopping. What else could be wrong?
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I bought my van in 2011 from my dad's former employer. It was a fleet vehicle and wasn't in the greatest of condition when I bought it. In 2012 I was told that I had a leak in my oil pan from a mechanic. I never ended up getting it fixed for various reasons. A few months ago, I lost power steering in my van and have been driving since without it. My dad wanted to see if anything could be done to fix it and found out the van is completely rusted underneath and ended up puncturing a hole in the bottom when he tried to jack the thing up. I am really hoping to get a (new) used car but don't have the money right now. I was wondering though how long would you expect I could "survive" with my car like this?
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