Dodge - Caliber :: 2008 Won't Start - Repeated Clicking Noise And All Electrical Inside Car Came On
Feb 22, 2013
Here's the issue-We're in Wisconsin, and it has been cold lately.After not driving her car for about five days, my wife's 2008 Dodge Caliber would not start. It gave her a repeated clicking noise, and all the electrical inside the car came on. I jumped the car, and it started just fine, drove it around for about 30 minutes, no battery indicator on the dash, cut the engine, started it right back up. The next morning, the car would not start again- same situation, clicking noise, everything in the car working (but nothing was left on).I went and picked up a new battery, but was having trouble getting the old one out. This time, though, the car won't take a jump. I checked the electrolyte levels, and they appear fine. I let the car charge on the cables (which are nice ones, not cheap, thin ones) for 15 minutes and more, and the most I got out of the car was a weak attempt to turn over, but mostly just the repeated clicking noise. I can't even jump the thing to get it looked at, and its in a narrow alley that will make towing next to impossible.
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My son had his engine replaced with a new engine due rod through engine. new engine had 4,000 miles. mechanic installed and check engine light was on. code showed o2 sensors needed to be replaced. these were replaced 2x and light still would not go off. It was taken to the dodge dealership in March 2011. ecu was found to be bad and was replaced. ecu continued to show bad o2 sensors. dealership replaced with manufacturer o2 sensors. code then showed "lean engine". The dealership could not even begin to tell us what was wrong unless they did more diagnostic testing for another $300 - 400 and that was not to fix the problem! Decided that was ridiculous. Took to an outside mechanic. Testing was done and showed that the fuel pump needed replaced. This was done. I don't believe anymore codes are coming up (this needs to be confirmed) but the engine light won't go off.
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I've got a Dodge Caliber '07 that has a weird Click that happens most of the time when I start engaging the clutch, it doesn't happen when starting out in first gear, but when shifting to 2nd, 3rd and now as it's aging sometimes 4th and very infrequently 5th. It happens when I pass the friction point on the clutch and can feel it in the pedal - as a note - I've found that if I gingerly/slowly release the pedal through the friction point it won't do it most of the time.
It is fairly loud at lower gears, as I can sometimes hear it with the window open bouncing off buildings or things. I'm just wondering what this is?
I have asked at the dealership several times already about this - but the mechanic always reported nothing found and that it's normal for a transmission with that many km (I'm in Canada). I bought the car with 50,000 km and it has done it the whole time - I've now got 128,000 km.
My first thought was something with a bearing or something - as it almost sounds like the gear isn't quite in place and when the torque starts being transferred it clicks into place... I'm not sure - which is why I'm here!
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I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber manual transmission. When I shift the car (while driving) from 2nd into 3rd/4th/5th gear, I suddenly notice what sounds like a "grinding" noise that stays with the car while in those gears. It's clearly an abnormal noise and noticeable but not obnoxious. It does not occur in 1st or 2nd (although it seems that maybe at higher rpms in 2nd gear I begin to notice it coming, though maybe it's my imagination), but the second I shift to 3rd gear and give it gas, the noise shows up instantly. Now when I let my foot off the gas, the noise goes away 100%. The second I give it gas again, it comes back. Also I don't believe the noise increases or decreases in relation to the speed of the vehicle. It seems to stay constant no matter what speed I'm at, as long as I'm actively giving it gas.
It occurs every time I drive, but I don't notice any other weird noises or problems with the car and the clutch feels good. I haven't been able to find any leaking anywhere underneath the car. It has approx. 92,000 miles and is a 1.8 liter 4-cylinder. I've spoken with a few folks and I've been given the following ideas:
1) bad clutch/assembly (replace clutch kit)
2) bad throwout bearing
3) bad bearing inside transmission associated with 3rd,4th,5th gear rod (?)
4) low transmission oil, 3-5 gears not oiled enough and causing noise
5) maybe nothing to do with transmission at all?
I plan on taking the transmission apart this week with a mechanically-inclined friend of mine and if I have a good idea of what it could be, that may save us a lot of time by not having to take unnecessary things apart (ie. tranny vs bellhousing).
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So I own a Dodge Caliber 2007 and it has about 170K miles. This car has been through a lot of trips from IN to PA and many other long trips. A few months ago it started to sound very odd. It's a four cylinder and it sounds like it is only running on three. I don't know too much about cars but the problems that it's facing is that sound for one, it is stuttering in a kind of way, like it's about to die. Also when I accelerate and make a sharp right turn it will start to die and will die on most occasions. This is very dangerous considering it has power steering and I can't maneuver when it does die. Also, I'm not sure if this is related at all, but the front left turn signal and the back right turn signal does not work. It isn't the lights as I have changed them 2 other times, I have been told it might be the computer module but I'm not sure.
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There is a clicking sound (about once per second) in the front of the engine compartment of my 2002 Dodge Dakota (2WD, quad cab, manual, no alarm, no electric windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) when the vehicle is off (ignition in the off position - with or without key in ignition). It stops if the battery is disconnected, if the key is in the run position, or if the key is in the position that allows one to use power while the vehicle is off. The interior lights and headlights will flash in sync with the clicking sound if they are on as well. The chime that lets you know that the key is in the ingnition with the door open will miss a beat with the click also. The amps running through the circuit (no lights on) jump up from 27 milliamps to 39 milliamps with the click sound. A possibly related issue is that the headlights no longer stay on for the 30 seconds or so that they used to when I turn off and exit the truck after having driven with the lights on. The clicking and light flashing continued even though I removed each fuse and relay in the box under the hood and the one next to the driver door (the lights stopped when their fuse was removed, but the clicking continued).
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The problem I am having started about a year ago, the car audio will suddenly shut off while playing, at first I could get a few minutes, then other times 30 minutes of audio playing, now I cannot even get a minute before it shuts itself off. What happens is the audio will play then it will start to cut out for a brief few seconds and get really low so that you can barely hear it. Then it completely cuts out and you can hear a small bass thump from the rear passenger speaker.
I thought it might have been a speaker issue so I disconnected both rear speakers, the same problem presented itself, however there was no bass thump (obviously as the speakers were disconnected).
It seemed like at first when it was really cold out out (-35C) it would stay on longer, now I cannot get any more than a minute regardless of temperature outside. The deck stays on and if I push the power button on and off it will come back for a brief second and shut right back off - Although when you try to turn it back on it has that really low muffled sound you can barely hear; seems like you have to wait at least 10 minutes before you can even regain 5 seconds of clear audio before shutting off.
I should also note that when the audio does cut out I am able to drop the volume knob and it shows the audio level decreasing, however it will not let me raise the audio level until I power on and off - It just gets stuck at whatever number the audio shut off at or I can lower the volume knob (not like it makes a difference since there is no audio coming out).
This is a factory deck in a Dodge Caliber 2010 SXT with absolutely no modifications to the cars audio or any other area.
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My AC hasn't been working for about a week now. It's just pushing heat, which makes sense with all of the hot weather. We did have a heavy downpour (torrential rain?) in the Cincinnati area about a week and a half ago. Is it possible water pushed up under my car and caused issues with the AC?
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My 2011 Dodge Caliber has been acting up and I am getting NO Where with the dealership. They keep telling me they can not figure out the problem, unless it does the same thing while it is there. But I feel unsafe driving my car, due to the fact it can happen at any given time. What happens is while driving it, all of a sudden you can not accelerate, you can have the pedal to the floor and nothing maybe 5 miles is all I get. This has happened twice now, and both time I took in it. The second time it happened all I did was start the car up. NOw how would you feel if you were driving and all of a sudden this happened to you. What if I'm driving and it happens when I go make a turn, and bam I get hit. Again this sucks and piss's me off. Oh yeah I only have 10,289 miles on it.
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I've noticed for a few weeks now that sometimes when I'm driving the steering wheel will pull kind of hard to the right. It'll do it for a while and then it'll go to the left, or it'll just go straight. It started to wobble and shake last week. I had the tires rotated and balanced a few days ago. It revealed that one of the two original tires had a broken belt. I had it replaced and the car drove better.
Today I had to go out of town and I still felt the wheel pulling in my hand to the right for a little bit and some small vibration that stopped after some miles. I checked the wheels and I didn't see a nail or anything sticking out. This is a very basic Caliber. No RPM gauge, no electric windows, or door locks, not even cruise control. I've had it for three years now. I've changed all but one of the original tires. It has over 99,000 miles on it.
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My 2010 Dodge Caliber has been leaking anti-freeze very slowly. I notice it when I start the car up and for the first minute I can actually smell the antifreeze coming through the vents when I have the air on. If I park the car and go in to the grocery store for a few minutes and start it up again the smell doesn't re-occur. I imagine I have a leak somewhere that is dripping onto the engine and when the car starts up from cold it burns it which is sending that smell through my vents.
I was told a while ago it could be the heater core, however I would assume that if it was the heater core I would have had a fog up on my window or a constant smell, not one that dissipates after a minute.
I had this problem last year except I was losing a lot of antifreeze (about a whole reservoir in 3 - 4 days. The problem was found to be a broken clamp on one of the hoses. This time however I cannot find any broken clamps or a source of the leak for that matter. I did notice that when I shut the car off the one time, and checked under the hood of the car I seen one air bubble spring up from the reservoir tank. I cannot see any signs of a leak from under the hood. However under the car I can see it is dripping from the frame, but not where it is coming from.
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07 Dodge Caliber 75K cvt 4cyl been to the dealer 3 times already, started with a single knock when turning the wheel to left or right if the car is not moving, they changed tie rods, struts and steering gear. Now the engine hesitates when the car is not moving and while turning the wheel to right or left. Im tired of taking it to the dealer cause they take 4 days to fix anything..
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Have a 2005 f150 5.4 4x4 Crewcab with no electrical power inside or outside cab. Any checklist of tests to perform. The battery is new and the connectors have been replaced.
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In 13 months my 1991 Dodge Grand Caravan has managed to kill 4 transmission control modules -- the original plus three factory replacements. The first replacement (by a Dodge garage) failed within weeks, after which they threw up their hands in despair (never recognizing the defective part) and sent me to an electrical specialist. The specialist's first replacement survived until April; their 2nd has just died. I find it hard to accept that all of these TCMs were simply defective.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan with about 160,000 miles on it. The front end has been deteriorating steadily for some time now. I have no power brakes or power steering, but I do not think that this is related to my REAL problem: My driver side CV joint (or axle or whatever) failed last week. Upon inspection, my mechanic commented on how he was surprised that it held on long enough for me to get to his shop. It was replaced by a mechanic with a new (not re-manufactured) piece.Yesterday I was driving a friend to the airport about 150 miles away, and 20 miles out of town, my van began wobbling in the front, and then shaking violently - consistent with my previous CV failure.
After dropping my friend off at the airport, I proceeded to the nearest mechanic, who again commented on how he was surprised that I was able to make it to his shop. He said something about the last CV joint being too long or something against a tulip joint (or something, I should have written it down).Initially it drove smoothly, as it did after the first fix, but on the way home I noticed a slight wobble that is connected to acceleration (that is, when I take my foot off of the gas, the wobble disappears). I am concerned that the CV is going to fail again. What would be causing this? Are the mechanics at fault, or is there another problem that propagates in the CV?
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Issue on grand caravan 1996 happen, while driving all one time I hearing a clicking noise inside dashboard and abs+airbag and weather control, they stopped to work all in one shot .
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On a recent trip to the service dept, I mentioned that the steering wheel makes a loud clicking noise anytime it's turned, the service guy said "it's normal and supposed to do that it's a spring"... Really? I find it hard to believe that Hyundai would make us listen to this annoying sound all the time.
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I drive a 2003 Dodge Neon SXT with 153,000 miles on. When the engine is first started, there is a "click-click-click" about every 7-10 seconds. I've had the belts changed and adjusted, they freed up a stuck idler (didn't replace the idler, the price was several hundred dollars). Once the engine is warm, the noise goes away.
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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1965 F100 300cid electrical drain...
I am attaching a link to my thread in the 1960's truck forum : [URL] .....
With my limited skill level, I have given up! It could very likely be something I am doing wrong with the diagnoses/troubleshooting.
Basically, When I turn the key to start the truck, I get a clicking solenoid at best and what appears to be a total loss of power. Not even the dome light will come on. The starter is new as is the solenoid.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Durango! I have noticed a clicking/knocking noise when I am driving coming from under the hood. The noise used to diminish somewhat the longer that I drove. Now the noise is getting louder and doesn't seem to lessen as my drive time increases. What this could be?
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