Dodge - Caliber :: 2008 - Check Engine Light Will Not Go Off
Jun 15, 2011
My son had his engine replaced with a new engine due rod through engine. new engine had 4,000 miles. mechanic installed and check engine light was on. code showed o2 sensors needed to be replaced. these were replaced 2x and light still would not go off. It was taken to the dodge dealership in March 2011. ecu was found to be bad and was replaced. ecu continued to show bad o2 sensors. dealership replaced with manufacturer o2 sensors. code then showed "lean engine". The dealership could not even begin to tell us what was wrong unless they did more diagnostic testing for another $300 - 400 and that was not to fix the problem! Decided that was ridiculous. Took to an outside mechanic. Testing was done and showed that the fuel pump needed replaced. This was done. I don't believe anymore codes are coming up (this needs to be confirmed) but the engine light won't go off.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
Here's the issue-We're in Wisconsin, and it has been cold lately.After not driving her car for about five days, my wife's 2008 Dodge Caliber would not start. It gave her a repeated clicking noise, and all the electrical inside the car came on. I jumped the car, and it started just fine, drove it around for about 30 minutes, no battery indicator on the dash, cut the engine, started it right back up. The next morning, the car would not start again- same situation, clicking noise, everything in the car working (but nothing was left on).I went and picked up a new battery, but was having trouble getting the old one out. This time, though, the car won't take a jump. I checked the electrolyte levels, and they appear fine. I let the car charge on the cables (which are nice ones, not cheap, thin ones) for 15 minutes and more, and the most I got out of the car was a weak attempt to turn over, but mostly just the repeated clicking noise. I can't even jump the thing to get it looked at, and its in a narrow alley that will make towing next to impossible.
View 6 Replies
07 Dodge Caliber 75K cvt 4cyl been to the dealer 3 times already, started with a single knock when turning the wheel to left or right if the car is not moving, they changed tie rods, struts and steering gear. Now the engine hesitates when the car is not moving and while turning the wheel to right or left. Im tired of taking it to the dealer cause they take 4 days to fix anything..
View 2 Replies
The problem I am having started about a year ago, the car audio will suddenly shut off while playing, at first I could get a few minutes, then other times 30 minutes of audio playing, now I cannot even get a minute before it shuts itself off. What happens is the audio will play then it will start to cut out for a brief few seconds and get really low so that you can barely hear it. Then it completely cuts out and you can hear a small bass thump from the rear passenger speaker.
I thought it might have been a speaker issue so I disconnected both rear speakers, the same problem presented itself, however there was no bass thump (obviously as the speakers were disconnected).
It seemed like at first when it was really cold out out (-35C) it would stay on longer, now I cannot get any more than a minute regardless of temperature outside. The deck stays on and if I push the power button on and off it will come back for a brief second and shut right back off - Although when you try to turn it back on it has that really low muffled sound you can barely hear; seems like you have to wait at least 10 minutes before you can even regain 5 seconds of clear audio before shutting off.
I should also note that when the audio does cut out I am able to drop the volume knob and it shows the audio level decreasing, however it will not let me raise the audio level until I power on and off - It just gets stuck at whatever number the audio shut off at or I can lower the volume knob (not like it makes a difference since there is no audio coming out).
This is a factory deck in a Dodge Caliber 2010 SXT with absolutely no modifications to the cars audio or any other area.
View 7 Replies
My AC hasn't been working for about a week now. It's just pushing heat, which makes sense with all of the hot weather. We did have a heavy downpour (torrential rain?) in the Cincinnati area about a week and a half ago. Is it possible water pushed up under my car and caused issues with the AC?
View 12 Replies
My 2011 Dodge Caliber has been acting up and I am getting NO Where with the dealership. They keep telling me they can not figure out the problem, unless it does the same thing while it is there. But I feel unsafe driving my car, due to the fact it can happen at any given time. What happens is while driving it, all of a sudden you can not accelerate, you can have the pedal to the floor and nothing maybe 5 miles is all I get. This has happened twice now, and both time I took in it. The second time it happened all I did was start the car up. NOw how would you feel if you were driving and all of a sudden this happened to you. What if I'm driving and it happens when I go make a turn, and bam I get hit. Again this sucks and piss's me off. Oh yeah I only have 10,289 miles on it.
View 19 Replies
I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber manual transmission. When I shift the car (while driving) from 2nd into 3rd/4th/5th gear, I suddenly notice what sounds like a "grinding" noise that stays with the car while in those gears. It's clearly an abnormal noise and noticeable but not obnoxious. It does not occur in 1st or 2nd (although it seems that maybe at higher rpms in 2nd gear I begin to notice it coming, though maybe it's my imagination), but the second I shift to 3rd gear and give it gas, the noise shows up instantly. Now when I let my foot off the gas, the noise goes away 100%. The second I give it gas again, it comes back. Also I don't believe the noise increases or decreases in relation to the speed of the vehicle. It seems to stay constant no matter what speed I'm at, as long as I'm actively giving it gas.
It occurs every time I drive, but I don't notice any other weird noises or problems with the car and the clutch feels good. I haven't been able to find any leaking anywhere underneath the car. It has approx. 92,000 miles and is a 1.8 liter 4-cylinder. I've spoken with a few folks and I've been given the following ideas:
1) bad clutch/assembly (replace clutch kit)
2) bad throwout bearing
3) bad bearing inside transmission associated with 3rd,4th,5th gear rod (?)
4) low transmission oil, 3-5 gears not oiled enough and causing noise
5) maybe nothing to do with transmission at all?
I plan on taking the transmission apart this week with a mechanically-inclined friend of mine and if I have a good idea of what it could be, that may save us a lot of time by not having to take unnecessary things apart (ie. tranny vs bellhousing).
View 4 Replies
I've noticed for a few weeks now that sometimes when I'm driving the steering wheel will pull kind of hard to the right. It'll do it for a while and then it'll go to the left, or it'll just go straight. It started to wobble and shake last week. I had the tires rotated and balanced a few days ago. It revealed that one of the two original tires had a broken belt. I had it replaced and the car drove better.
Today I had to go out of town and I still felt the wheel pulling in my hand to the right for a little bit and some small vibration that stopped after some miles. I checked the wheels and I didn't see a nail or anything sticking out. This is a very basic Caliber. No RPM gauge, no electric windows, or door locks, not even cruise control. I've had it for three years now. I've changed all but one of the original tires. It has over 99,000 miles on it.
View 4 Replies
Just had my lexus dealership do the ELF recall. While it was in there I had them check to see why my check vsc light comes on randomly which sets off the check engine light.
They came back and told me that my water pump is leaking, what are the future problems of a leaking water pump?
They said the check vsc light is coming on, in their words is "found center y pipe, gaskets leaking at front pipe, may still need to replace converter pipe." So what does that mean and what do I need to do?
View 14 Replies
I've got a Dodge Caliber '07 that has a weird Click that happens most of the time when I start engaging the clutch, it doesn't happen when starting out in first gear, but when shifting to 2nd, 3rd and now as it's aging sometimes 4th and very infrequently 5th. It happens when I pass the friction point on the clutch and can feel it in the pedal - as a note - I've found that if I gingerly/slowly release the pedal through the friction point it won't do it most of the time.
It is fairly loud at lower gears, as I can sometimes hear it with the window open bouncing off buildings or things. I'm just wondering what this is?
I have asked at the dealership several times already about this - but the mechanic always reported nothing found and that it's normal for a transmission with that many km (I'm in Canada). I bought the car with 50,000 km and it has done it the whole time - I've now got 128,000 km.
My first thought was something with a bearing or something - as it almost sounds like the gear isn't quite in place and when the torque starts being transferred it clicks into place... I'm not sure - which is why I'm here!
View 3 Replies
So I own a Dodge Caliber 2007 and it has about 170K miles. This car has been through a lot of trips from IN to PA and many other long trips. A few months ago it started to sound very odd. It's a four cylinder and it sounds like it is only running on three. I don't know too much about cars but the problems that it's facing is that sound for one, it is stuttering in a kind of way, like it's about to die. Also when I accelerate and make a sharp right turn it will start to die and will die on most occasions. This is very dangerous considering it has power steering and I can't maneuver when it does die. Also, I'm not sure if this is related at all, but the front left turn signal and the back right turn signal does not work. It isn't the lights as I have changed them 2 other times, I have been told it might be the computer module but I'm not sure.
View 18 Replies
My 2010 Dodge Caliber has been leaking anti-freeze very slowly. I notice it when I start the car up and for the first minute I can actually smell the antifreeze coming through the vents when I have the air on. If I park the car and go in to the grocery store for a few minutes and start it up again the smell doesn't re-occur. I imagine I have a leak somewhere that is dripping onto the engine and when the car starts up from cold it burns it which is sending that smell through my vents.
I was told a while ago it could be the heater core, however I would assume that if it was the heater core I would have had a fog up on my window or a constant smell, not one that dissipates after a minute.
I had this problem last year except I was losing a lot of antifreeze (about a whole reservoir in 3 - 4 days. The problem was found to be a broken clamp on one of the hoses. This time however I cannot find any broken clamps or a source of the leak for that matter. I did notice that when I shut the car off the one time, and checked under the hood of the car I seen one air bubble spring up from the reservoir tank. I cannot see any signs of a leak from under the hood. However under the car I can see it is dripping from the frame, but not where it is coming from.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2004 Dodge Stratus (165,000 Miles). The check engine light has been on for at least eight months. I took it to have it checked out and the mechanic said ''there is a very small crack in the exhaust line''. Well, now if I turn the car on cold, it shakes all over and sometimes will turn off. It smells like straight exhaust.
Yesterday I started the car and the check engine light flashed for a good minute, then stayed on. Also, when I get out from a normal drive, you can smell gas. Plain ole gas.
View 7 Replies
2010 Dodge Grand Caravan. On the way to work I was trying to accelerate from about 40mph to 50 mph and my van started to jerk a few times and then the check engine light immediately turned on. I only had a few more miles to work and it was fine the rest of the way.
View 1 Replies
On empty a week ago, filled 1/2 a tank, drove home no issue. Didn't drive truck for a week. Turned it on this morning (didn't warm it up) about 10 minutes into the drive anytime you tried to accelerate, the truck would buck. If you were idling or just had your foot slightly on the pedal driving at the same speed it was fine, it only bucked when I really pushed on the pedal to accelerate. The check engine light started flashing as well.
View 3 Replies
My 95 Dodge neon had no problems it ran, started, drove fine everyday! Check engine light turns on after few drives... Now after about 10 drives the car does not start. It makes a rapid clicking noise.... Called auto shop they say battery, I bought this battery one year ago from them. They suggest i try a jump start. I go to jump start, look down check engine light is FLASHING.... Since car wont start, needs a tow for a car I'm not even driving nor will drive and not worth my money to invest anymore.....
View 3 Replies
My dad has a 2007 dodge ram 5.7 hemi and recently the check engine light has been staying on at first it was fuel door open now that's gone but the check engine is there went to get the code read and was told something about a fuel leak evaporator leak the cap or a vacuum line the cap was tested it was good?
View 1 Replies
The "check engine soon" light appeared yesterday on this nice running 1997 van with 167K. An auto parts store code check indicated a problem with the oxygen sensor. Is this something I can replace myself--a lightweight shade tree mechanic? I never seem to have any luck asking questions on the Mopar website.
View 10 Replies
I have a 1997 Dodge Neon with about 153,XXX miles on it. My check engine light has been on and i know that is caused by a random misfire. But more recently i went to start my car and it started but ran for less then 10 seconds and died. I tried to start it again and it wanted to but wouldnt make the final step i guess. We checked my spark plugs and i had oil sitting in 3 of the 4 there are. We have tried starting it again after cleaning the oil out and it started on the first try, I am just afraid of messing anything else up so until we figure out why it did this to begin with the vehicle is off limits. My Fiance said we need to replace the spark plugs and a gasket.
View 4 Replies
I recently crossed 30,000 miles on my Challenger SE and the Check engine light came on. First time at dealer they just ran diagnostics and said it was a "service update" code that they ran and turned off the light. They said this explained why it was running very rough on idle. When the light came back on, I took it to another mechanic and they got the same code, but said one of the cylinders was misfiring. Back at Dodge, they are now replacing the cylinder today under warranty. My question is: with a car this young, what would cause this to occur, and how can I take steps to protect the new cylinder and prevent this for happening again?
View 17 Replies
My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
View 4 Replies
