I have a 2008 dodge avenger that stalls without warning while I am driving. It happens without any warning signs, happens when I am driving and also when I stop the car. The dealer can't find a thing wrong with it. What's wrong with it? It starts right up after this happens and they tell me my vin number isn't part of a recall for a problem that I have read that other people have with their 2008 avengers.
View 1 RepliesI bought a used 2009 Dodge Avenger and it did not have an owners manual with it and was wondering how do you reset the "change oil" warning light. The old way of turning on the ignition and pumping the gas pedal does not work on this model.
View 3 RepliesI got new brakes put on a few months ago month (semi-metalic)... Any way anytime I drive and it is raining, when my car comes to a to a complete stop, and I hit the gas to shift into second gear my car sort of stutters like it doesn't want to shift but then it does.
I took it to two mechanics MULTIPLE times who even drove it in the rain and they couldn't find a single thing wrong. they hooked the transmission up to the computer and noticed nothing.
It has happened multiple times and its both been raining. Could it be the tires aren't gripping the road and that's why my cars shifting funny, like the tires aren't caught up?
2008 Dodge Avenger SXT Sedan GEMA 2.4L DOHC I4 / 4 speed automatic75,000 miles Moderately well taken care of (oil change every 3,000 miles, mostly follows recommended maintenance in owner's manual)
Symptoms:
*Car runs and drives fine while the car is in constant motion and decelerating.
*Rough and Slow Idle at a stop on the brakes with car in Drive. Engine speed will drop below ~400 RPM, then "kick" up to ~1,200 RPM, settle back to 'normal' idle ~800 RPM, repeat. I have suggested she put the car in Neutral at a stop to see if that changes anything, but I don't have feedback from her yet. One instance of seeing a puff of smoke from under the hood while the car was doing the above.
*When pulling away from a stop, the car will hesitate; that is the accelerator will be pressed but the throttle response will be delayed.
*When pulling away from a stop acceleration will be inconsistent; instead of rrrrrRRRRRRRRRR, it's more like rrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRR
*Couple instances where the car just shut off while she was parallel parking (low engine speed).
*One instance where the car did not start on first attempt. Started fine on second attempt.
*No Check Engine Light. The codes have been run.
Shop Visits (at an independent garage recommended by her roommate who's been going there for 5+ years, good reviews on yelp, and always busy):
*First visit: told her they put in a bottle of fuel system cleaner and to use a tank of high octane gas. That didn't really work.
*Second visit: cleaned the throttle body. That was 3 days ago, so far no conclusion either way.
Other repairs:
*The battery was checked (at O'Reilly) and replaced after the starting incident mentioned above. (5 year old car, seems about right).
*2 nights ago I told her to put in a bottle of HEET to get water out of the fuel system (California uses ethanol blend) and a bottle of Gumout Fuel System Cleaner and to fill up with premium gas (based on items below). Be sure to run that tank down to almost empty.
Things I could think of:
*Crankshaft/camshaft position sensor failing.
*Alternator failing (because this problem doesn't seem to exist at higher RPM's)
Research online: It seems that a number of people have similar problems with Chrysler products with this and the previous generation 2.4L engine but no clear conclusive repair. Some of the items mentioned:
*Idle Air Control (IAC)
*Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
*New sparks plugs and wires. (not replaced but should be)
*New timing belt. Timing belt is one tooth off.
*Water in the Fuel System (hence, HEET)
*Dirty/Clogged Fuel System Component (hence, fuel system cleaner)
*Failing Fuel Pump
*Dirty/Clogged Air Filter (replaced per maintenance manual)
*Low Oil Pressure/Failing Oil Pump
*Additionally, there are no recalls against her VIN.
Check engine light computer scan indicates intake manifold runner control valve stuck open. Will it damage the car to drive it in this condition and what does fixing it entail?
View 4 RepliesI had a 2010 Dodge Avenger and going down I averaged about 70-75mph and got about 30 mph, coming back I bumped my speed up to about 79-83 and saw the gas mileage dip a bit. So how do you know what speed (Avg) wise while on the freeway to drive to maximize your fuel consumption? Also, what can you do while driving to maximize it? Going down I didn't have any windows open due to some rain and didn't run my AC just vent air. Coming back had the window open a bit and some vent air.
View 19 Replies2010 2.4L Dodge Avenger SXT... Last month my car started overheating while I was idling but was fine otherwise. About a week later my cars check engine light and my electronic throttle control light came on. I took it to an auto store immediately and did the diagnosis on it. It came up with P2181 Cooling system performance with no reported fixes. Few days later it started overheating while driving. It only took two or three blocks before in the red. Decided to go to the local dealership (didn't want to go there but car is still under warranty) and they said since my boyfriend had messed with it trying to see what was wrong it wasn't under warranty. They said the wrong kind of coolant was in and that i needed to replace my thermostat/ So we changed out the two thermostat and drained/replace new coolant. It is still is over heating.
View 4 RepliesAlready replaced the starter relay will not crank from the key but even when I jump the starter the car still wont start and the switch is in the on position I checked all the fuses and replaced the ecm ....
View 15 RepliesI have a 2010 dodge avenger sxt replaced fans but won't turn I connected everything back together still nothing....
View 6 RepliesWhen you press on the accelerator the car feels very sluggish it only has 61,000 miles
View 3 RepliesI bought an avenger that runs a little rough and I am trying to figure out if I have a fuel and air problem or a broken motor mount. In neutral or any other gear the car does not shake. In drive it shakes horrendously. Watching the engine as the car is put in drive the engine moves towards you a about 3 or so inches. Now with throttling the car takes a while to accelerate even after I stomp it on the highway to merge. On home roads I can let off the gas and the car will sustain itself at 25 to 30 mph. 1st gear is not very responsive. All other gears seem to be ok with acceleration. I am trying to find a good starting point.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 Dodge Avenger ES that reads code P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. I've replaced the transmission control module, and filter. I've called the Dodge dealership and asked if the new transmission control module needs to be programmed. The service department said "Possibly" I said "Well it's shifting better than before. If there wasn't any firmware on it what would it do?" He said "My guess it that the car wouldn't shift." I asked if the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid visible once you remove the filter. He said "I'm not sure." Clearly, my car isn't going there. Then asked to be transfer to the Parts department to see if there was a part called Torque converter clutch solenoid. That answer was "No" there isn't a part listed called "Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid". What should I do or try?
View 9 Replies2001 Dodge Stratus R/T, 5 speed manual - under load, it feels like I'm driving over warning strips in the road, and stops when I coast. The CVJ's feel and look OK. So do the wheel bearings. Could it be something in the final drive? It happens in all the gears.
View 1 RepliesSo today my car has started having this issue I just can't figure out. Twice while I was driving down the road my car suddenly acted like it was going to stall, the dummy lights all went off, the AC and radio both shut off, and the clock reset. I cleaned the terminals and checked the codes but nothing came up and it happened one more time.
View 4 RepliesMy 08 prius completely shut off while driving on the california freeways today. No warnings no lights on the dash nothing. Just powered off. Will not start the ready light of any dash lights for that matter work.. tried to jump it.. nothing working. What the he'll can cause thus.. I'm about 500 miles from home with a car just parked. Could a 12v battery cause this no start issue?
View 15 RepliesI have an ' 87 Caravan/mini ram van with the Mitsu 2.6 4 cylinder engine. It has 180k miles. Always ran great until now. It'll start right up (the first time) on a cold morning with no problems, but runs a little rougher than usual. Before the engine is warmed up on a cold day, needs to wait a little while before starting to drive it. Recently, I've been starting it and letting it idle for about 5-10 minutes. When I start driving it, normally I don't even get out of my driveway, it stalls and won't restart. It seems like the carb might be flooded, but not sure. Could this simply need a tune up? I haven't replaced the plugs yet since I've owned it, I've had it for only a year so far. The previous owner was very meticulous about maintenance.
View 3 RepliesPurchased a new-to-us 1st gen dodge pickup, a 92 D150 v6. It's used once or twice a week at max and only has around 90k miles on it.
So a few months after we bought the truck, it stalled, or more like choked, out while driving on these country, hilly roads, at around 50 mph.. it happened once and we didn't think much of it. It happened again not too long after that, though, and we discovered we could push through the stall/choke by giving it a lot of gas.. it sounds terrible, and shakes and sputters, but eventually catches back and starts to run normal.
As months passed, the problem happened more often. So we changed the spark plugs and wires recently. No difference. In a given 40 minute trip along 45-55 mph country roads, the truck will choke and sputter at least 5 or 6 times. It's now so bad that sometimes giving it gas isn't enough to fix the issue and we have to pull over.
We've got an appt scheduled with a mechanic, Our friends think maybe it has to do with the choke plate or carburetor. It seems to happen more often if the AC is on, and other than this, the truck runs great. It starts up fast and idles fine.
I've called to be on the show but never get through. But for the first time I cannot get an answer to my question from any mechanic. I have a 06 dodge caravan minivan which stalls after putting gas in the tank. After a few seconds it starts up again and operates normally for the rest of the tank. I've tried filling it, filling halfway and even putting in only a few dollars worth.
View 9 Replies96 intrepid, 3.5 motor. Runs fine, no loss of power or odd behavior but will just die. Like flipping a switch. Refuses to start. I checked fuel pressure and it's good. No codes. Does this motor have a MAF? Sure can't find one. It has the odd split intake plenum. 1 air box but 2 separate inlet ducts to each side of motor. The motor is not transverse. It has 2 throttle bodies on the firewall side of motor with a shaft that runs between them. So eventually it starts. Idles fine. I watch it idle. And click, it shuts off.
View 2 RepliesI have a 05 dodge magnum v6 2.7. Only when its warm it stalls at idle. Scanned it code p0137 came back low voltage o2 sensor 1 of 2. I replaced all 4 o2 sensors and still stalling...
View 18 RepliesHere's what is going on with my 2000 Dakota V6 3.9L V6:
After sitting for at least a couple of hours, the truck will crank but not start. After 3-5 tries, the truck does start but idles roughly at a very low RPM for 10 seconds or so and then stalls. I turn the key one more time and it starts up great and idles and drives normally. This behavior is very consistent. I have only driven it about 5 miles after it started doing this, because on that trip, the engine stalled while I was driving. Occasionally the MIL comes on and gives P0443 as the code. Question is, can the evap purge solenoid cause this behavior if it is going bad? I have inspected the vacuum lines, and they seem ok.
One more note: When this first started, I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump. Replacing that has not fixed the problem, and the fuel pump relay is good.