Dodge :: 2005 - How To Find Lug Nut Specs
May 8, 2015
I've got an '05 Dodge Ram 1500 pickup. I am so confused by the lug nuts. I tried every socket at Autozone and none of them seemed to fit right. The 23mm gets the job done, but it's loose and goes crooked. Now the threads are barfed up. I bought some new nuts that looked right ( M14-1.5). They start to go on, but then they seize up after a few turns. I'd like to replace the nuts or at least clean out the threads, but how do I know what size?
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What are the torque specs for the crankshaft,cylinder heads and camshafts for a 2005 f550 v10 6.8?
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My 2005 Camry LE four cylinder is past due for plug wires. I have tried Googling the correct part number for either NGK or Denso. The newest ones I can find are from 2001. What are the proper part numbers? My local parts store claims NGK and Denso does not make them for my car. I have a hard time believing they don't make plug wires for my car. If nothing else what is the correct Toyota part number?
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Im looking to find a wiring diagram for the speakers. I have the 2007 Avalon XL. I dont have naviigation or JBL system. I want to install a line out converter to install an amp for my sub.
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Worthless Chilton's manual went in trash. I don't have a working PC and Im unable to find a diagram for the rear brake drum of my 2005 camry.
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I cannot find specs for Points on my truck. My dad use to set them using a match book cover. Not that talented! Should condenser automatically be changed with points. 352 engine FYI
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I had found the torque specs for the oil plug, oil filter housing the oil filter housing drain plug but I am unable to locate now.
30 ft lb drain plug
25 ft lb filter housing
10 ft lb filter housing drain plug
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Just doing the bro in law's tie rod ends and we are wondering what torque we should be putting on the castle nuts? They are greasable Moogs...
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I need the torque specs for the bearing caps and the order to torque them. Can't find the pdf file for the bentley. Looking for a link to the bentley..
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i was driving the ram the other day and about four miles from home after accellerating after stopping at a traffic light the car the truck made an intermittent banging noise boom...... boom...... boom and would not go more than twenty miles an hour even though the accelerator was to the floor. I was finally able to pull over into a parking area after about three miles and as I did so everything returned to normal. I was able to then drive home another mile or so including up a long steep hill without a problem except for one little hesitation that really was nothing. hoping some one has an inexpensive solution for me. The truck has 280000 miles on it.
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Intermittently (although lately it's pretty common, perhaps due to the Texas heat?) my car will take several seconds to start. It sounds like the battery is dead, i.e., it sounds as if it's about to start but it straining, and then it eventually engages.
When this happens, I know that a) I won't be able to turn on cruise control and b) I won't be able to accelerate easily. at best I can get it to 60 mph
Similarly, even if I start up without a problem, and I'm cruising down the HWY at 80 MPH, the car will suddenly loose momentum and won't go above 60 mph. And I can't turn on cruise control (cc shuts down, in fact, if it was on).
This is a 2005 Neon, by the way.
I have replaced the battery and cabling to the battery to no avail.
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Found a small black piece of either plastic or metal about half the size of a fingernail in the oil when checking it last night. When I took the oil cap off it was on the spindle part. About a month ago I saw another same size piece just in the top area just when you take the cap off and look in the oil case.
Its my 2nd round of using 5w20 valvoline full synthetic oil. Im hoping this is just extra sludge/debris being cleaned out? After reading around It sounds like it could be a much more serious problem with bearing, or pistons/rings.
This car has a serious problem with oil consumption, I always try to stay on top of oil levels and am actually taking it in to the dealership to have it Flashed with the latest TSB for it. Just got a new battery, fuel injectors cleaned every 1-2k, throttlebody just cleaned 2k miles ago.
I literally just did an oil change and did a small trip of 300 miles, next morning had a dry start... had to add about 1/4 qt and this morning and then was fine.
Car has 98.5k miles 2009 corolla S
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2011 Lexus RX350 ... What are the Torque specs for the caliper bracket bolts (front and rear caliper brackets) a pdf will be great
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I have to replace the valve cover gasket this weekend.
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One of the gas stations where I live recently added e15 and e30 gasoline to their pumps. I drive a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT and was wondering if either one would be ok to put in this car. I regularly put in the e10 gas and have done so for all of my vehicles since I have been driving. I read that e15 should be fine but was wondering about the e30 gas.
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Specs for the two bolts/washers for the passenger side (only) exhaust hanger? I'm referring There one hanger on the passenger side only w/ two captive threads in the subframe.
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What the torque spec is for the driveshaft to rear differential flange mounting bolts on the 99 F150 4x4 supercab?
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What are the torque specs for tie rods for a 4x4.
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Tell me the torque specs for the various attaching nuts of the front hub assembly for the 99 F150 4x4 5.4L (large nut on the spindle, mounting bolts to back of spindle, etc if any) ? I will need them to put everything back together after checking the tone ring for my ABS problem.
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My daughter's 2005 Dodge Stratus (2.7 I think) is giving an unusual problem on an intermittent basis. Sometimes when she cranks the car, the check engine and oil lights will stay on. She can put the car in gear and the car will move but the steering wheel will not turn. It's like it's in a locked position - it's not just being hard to turn, it won't turn at all. There's a sufficient amount of power steering fluid in the pump reservoir.
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I have a 2005 Durango, ~142k miles. The end of May, I had to get the transmission solenoid replaced, which may not be relevant. About 10 days later, the car started overheating when idling. There was a crack on the radiator neck, by the cap, and I had to get the radiator replaced, and the thermostat. The shop said the fan was wobbling, and they replaced the fan clutch as well. The fan was a lot louder than it had been, the mechanic said he had put in a higher performance fan in and maybe that was why, and offered to put in a lower performance one if I wanted. I declined.
Six weeks later, it started overheating while idling again. I brought it back, and the water pump was out. By now I was checking the temperature gauge constantly when idling, and it never quite hit the center until suddenly after 4 weeks, then it suddenly started overheating while idling again. I brought it back again, and they couldn't find any problem except he said the radiator was about a cup low, and maybe there had been an air bubble.
I've been constantly checking the temperature gauge since, and it once again never quite hit middle until 2 days ago, and now suddenly it's overheating when idling. I checked the coolant level after it had been sitting for a couple hours (and I had only driven it for about 10 minutes so far this morning, before that. I'm afraid there is a blown head gasket or something, but if so, why would it run so well for an extended period, and then suddenly start overheating again, twice now? They haven't done a compression check.
In case this is relevant, every few days the car will just stall out when coming to a stop, and sometimes the idle seems rough.
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