Dodge :: 1986 - Brake Pedal Sticks Down
Dec 3, 2012
we have a 1986 dodge truck and the brake pedal sticks down and you have to manualy pull it back to release the brake. What could my problem be.
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Dec 3, 2012
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Dodge - Magnum :: Battery Warning Light Turned On - Accelerator Pedal Sticks
2005 Magnum with 64K and original battery: Battery warning light turned on and went immediately to battery shop. Alternator checked out ok but battery dead. Battery replaced but upon starting the engine max raced. turned on off several times still races at high RPM.
Since I was out of town, drove home by feathering accelerator pedal by pulling it back with my foot and brake and cruised at about 40 MPH. Got home safe. Will the computer reset after a fixed number of turn ons and offs or must it be taken to dealer for computer reset?
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1977 F250 - Brake Pedal Goes To The Floor And Sticks When Running
When depressed the break peddle is firm, when released break peddle does not return, replaced mc and booster, bleed breaks. Still having same problem.
View 1 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 1986 F150 - Lose Brake Pedal?
86 f150 4x4
brake pedel goes straight to the floor but if u give it short pumps of the pedel it grabs but barley....master cylinder or the booster?
Dodge - Ram :: 1998 - Brake Pedal Would Not Disengage The Clutch
My clutch went out on my 98 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD the other day. I limped it home shifting like a big truck timing the shifts w/out the clutch. I replaced the slave cylinder w/ an aftermarket that had a bleeder. Bled it and got the pedal back up and it still wouldn't disengage the clutch. I replaced the master cylinder and started getting pedal back until I let the reservoir get too low and now after plenty of tries, I can't get any pressure built. I get a stream of fluid, but no air. Bench bleed the master and start over? I'm at a loss.
View 5 RepliesDodge - Durango :: 2004 - Brake Pedal Vibrates When Applied
I'm the only owner. Since new the rear brakes have never generated even a fraction of the dust of the front brakes. I have replaced the front and rear pads but never had the rotors turned. The rotors aren't perfectly smooth but they don't have any deep ruts.
Anyway, my brake pedal vibrates when I apply the brakes. And the rear brakes squeak randomly when braking even though there are new pads. I always felt they squeaked because there is not much braking power in the rear.
My Durango stops okay. I'm worried about catastrophic failure because of the vibrating.
Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2004 - Rear Brake Sticks / Parking Brake Is Broken
I have a 2004 Elantra GLS. My left rear brake was hanging (wheel was very hot to the touch after driving, while other wheels were not), so I had a friend check the brake pads. We decided to replace the pads and rotors. While doing so, the parking brake seemed stuck in the on position, so I opted to have him disconnect it completely until I could afford to replace it. I had used it for the first time about 2 weeks before I noticed the hot brake problem, so we figured that must have been why the brake was hanging.
My friend replaced the rotors and pads, put some penetrant/lubricant on the piston of the caliper and reassembled the brakes. He did use the special tool to spin the caliper in when putting the pads on, however he didn't know that was necessary and tried to force them in with a C-clamp first.
Now, I seem to have two problems:
1. The left rear brake still hangs sometimes. I will drive the car and when I park it I can feel the heat coming off of the left rear wheel. It is extremely hot, so I know the brake is hanging (even with the parking brake disconnected). What is the problem here? Is the caliper bad? Would replacing the caliper solve the problem? Does the parking brake have to be connected to stop the caliper from hanging up?
2. My second problem is the pulsating of the brakes. I am afraid the rotor is warped because of the heat, or maybe he didn't clean everything well enough before he put the new rotor on. How can I figure out what the problem is? Is there a way to check a rotor to see if it is warped? Could there be another reason I feel the pulsating brakes? By the way, the brake fluid is full.
If the caliper needs to be replaced and I can leave the parking brake disconnected, are there any special instructions my friend should know about before working on this? He does work on a lot of cars and rebuilds cars to sell, so he is pretty knowledgeable. I think the only thing he didn't know about was rotating the piston. I would like to provide him with detailed instructions if necessary.
Dodge - Vibration :: Braking Quite Hard And Clattering Noise In Brake Pedal
Just bought this van used last fall. Had an occasion, a few months ago, to brake quite hard (to avoid hitting a bird in the road--yeah, I know...) and felt a clattering vibration/noise in my brake pedal. It's happened a few times since then. Is this a problem that needs to be looked at or a normal reaction to quick, hard braking? (Braking noise in 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan)
View 9 RepliesDodge - Suspension - Dakota :: 2001 - Brake Pedal Goes Almost To The Floor While Braking?
My brake pedal goes almost to the floor when I'm braking.I replaced the rotors, pads, shoes, power booster and the master cylinder 3 times.Had it bled twice and I still have a soft pedal, but now it firms up a bit as I pump the brakes.
View 7 RepliesNissan - Pickup :: 1993 - Accelerator Pedal Occasionally Sticks
The accelerator pedal on my 1993 Nissan pickup occassionally "sticks". Mainly when I'm leaving a (stop-sign/red light, etc) or if I let off pedal (in traffic etc) then push on it again to accelerate. I've changed the throttle cable (had a brand new one from brother in law...still in packing). I took it to Nissan dealership few years ago and they couldn't figure it out, same with a (highly recommended) local shop.
View 7 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Clutch Pedal Sticks To The Floor
2003 Jetta, 1.8T, 5spd, stock, 129k miles. I am working on a friends car and his complaint is the clutch pedal occasionally sticks to the floor and during this sequence it is hard to shift gears. I removed knee bolsters to inspect under the dash and found all linkage straight, all plastic parts/springs in place and no fluid leaks, I removed slave cylinder from bell housing and found smooth operation and no leaks. I guess I could replace both but I am wondering if there is a common issue. My searches have found broken plastic parts, bent push rods and leaking cylinders.
View 4 RepliesDodge - Dakota :: Pulsation In Brake Pedal And Sort Of Wobbly Feeling In Steering Wheel
I had a front brake job done on a 2002 Dodge Dakota pickup at 85000 miles. When I stepped on the brake, I felt pulsation in the pedal and a sort of wobbly feeling in the steering wheel. Also the brakes were making noises while driving. Classical sign of a warped rotor?! Long story short brand new rotors, brake pads and calipers, later the pulsation is mostly gone but the braking is still not smooth at one point while the tires are turning. Now i do have to older tires on the front but i just bought two brand new tires for the rear. Would it be wise to put the new tires on front to see if there might be some unevenness caused by the old tires before i take it back to the shop?
Also the feeling of the brakes catching on one point seems non existent or so minimal I can not be sure if the road surface interfering while driving slow of applying the brakes gently. But slowing down from higher speeds (above 40 mph) and using more then gentle braking ( not standing on the pedal with both feet) it is definitely there. Before the brake job braking caused the steering turning right. (sign of more braking action on the right - right?). Now with new stuff still pulls to the right but not as strongly. Should not this disappear with the brake job? Or get the new tires on front and see what gives?
Toyota - Tacoma :: 1999 - Clutch Pedal Intermittently Sticks To The Floor
My 1999 Toyota Tacoma (Ext Cab, 4x4 TRD) has 162K miles and now the clutch pedal intermittently sticks to the floor. I have to pull it off the floor with my toes while driving and have also felt the pedal start to pull back towards the floor on its own while the truck is in gear.
I'm looking for some wisdom as a few blogs/websites point towards a master cylinder, others say the master and slave, and my local auto shop said I need to replace the entire clutch assembly and throttle bearing. My truck is no spring chicken anymore but I'd like to keep it running for a few more years...
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 04 - Parking Brake Sticks
I replaced both rear calipers, rotors, pads, parking brake cables and it still sticks once in a while. I have played with the adjustment on the console many times, but to no avail. I have to crawl under the back and press the link up to unlock the parking brake. It's only about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch at most. Is there some type of spring I can use so it retracts all the time? I have seen Toyota's with them.
View 4 RepliesDodge - Caravan :: 1986 - Car Started To Lose Power On Highway With A Loud Screeching Noise
Very loud timing chain noise in my Mitsubishi 2.6 engine. It has 105k miles on it. I ordered a new complete timing chain kit and oil pump from an online autoparts store. The parts arrived here and scheduled an appointment to have those parts put in today. While driving the van to the repair shop, it broke down about 4 miles from my house. I started to lose power on the highway then a loud screeching noise, similar sound to a belt going bad or slipping. The temp gauge started to climb rapidly. I immediately shut off the van and pulled over. It was towed back home and wouldn't restart. Battery was weak. I charged the battery for three hours and the van started again. This time it runs incredibly rough. The whole van shakes badly when in gear (also the loud timing chain noise). I also noticed an oil leak on the ground on the passenger side, in the area of the timing chain/oil pump area.
View 1 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 1986 - Clutch Pedal Is Going Directly To The Floor With No Effort
I have a 1986 Toyota Camry. I drove it for a year with no additional problems than when I bought it. I replaced the clutch when I bought it. However, It recently has had a new problem. The clutch pedal is going directly to the floor with no effort whatsoever. When this happened in the past it was simply out of clutch fluid, I was aware of the leak when I bought the car. Now it doesn't seem to be using any at all and I can only put it in gear when it is turned off.
I have replaced the clutch master cylinder myself and it didn't seem to solve the problem. I have tried to bleed the new master cylinder but no fluid is being drawn into the master cylinder from the fill cup on the top of it. I'm not even sure that this is the problem. I noticed that the place where the MC is attached to the clutch pedal is adjustable. Could this be a matter of adjusting this to drive the plunger inside the MC all the way forward? I am also having trouble understanding the whole clutch system. The MC doesn't seem to have anything to do with engaging or disengaging the clutch. The only thing it attaches to is the clutch pedal. Where does the clutch fluid go? Is there another place to fill Manual transmission fluid?
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F350 - Front Right Brake Sticks Intermittently?
F350 Super Duty sometimes the front driver side brake sticks and will pull to the left while driving and pull hard to the right while braking. It has a slight front end vibration when the symptoms are present. The wheel will be boiling hot to the touch and the smell of brakes burning is obvious.
After the truck sits, it will be good with no incident for weeks.
With the wheel still hot and on jackstand, the front wheel seems to turn freely until the brakes are applied, and seems to spin free again as brakes are released.
It seems to happen when I have a "hard braking" incident going forward until I park the truck and let it sit. If i consciously brake soft, the brakes seem to be fine.
I have read some of the posts and this is different in that it is intermittent.
I have replaced the brake hose as I thought it could be the "check-valve" symptom. No luck.
I have checked the sliders and re-lubed and they slide freely.
The caliper is relatively new and the fluid in the system is fresh as i recently changed the rear brake line and completely flushed and bled all four corners.
Do i just change the caliper, or, is there a way to find out if one of the pistons is intermittently binding? I would hate to invest in a new caliper if that is not the issue.
Volvo :: 1986 740 - Brake Lamp Failure Relay
After fixing no brake lights on my 86' 740 I still can't get the inner ones to work. To fix the problem I changed the brake lamp failure relay. The bulbs are good. The relay was used.
View 1 RepliesFord - F150 :: 1986 - Blinker Works Fine But Brake Light Won't?
I got a new truck bed and decided it was time to finally fix my rear lights. Both blinkers work but only one brake light. It has really got me stumped. Also the rear running lights don't work and never have. When using a multi meter I get continuity between the running light positive and the common negative but only when the rear light harness is plugged in which means the short is somewhere on the way back or under the dash? Any tips about tracking this stuff down.
View 6 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1986 - Brake Light Fuse Keeps Blowing
I've got an 86 ranger sport and I'm having trouble with the lights. The turn signals work, and ALL 4 bulbs in the back are new. The brake light fuse keeps blowing, and the fuse for the tail lights is good but they won't come on at all. I was told there was a direct short somewhere, does that sound about right? And is there a common place where they tend to short out?
View 2 RepliesToyota - Celica :: 1986 - Tail / Brake / Battery Warning Lights Came On - Won't Charging
Problem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?