Diesel - Mercedes-benz :: 1982 - Emits Toxic Fumes?
Feb 14, 2011
. Is it likely that my 1982 Mercedes 240 emits killer fumes? The reason I ask is that the previous owner recently died of brain cancer, and my now adult children have both been afflicted by shall we say, brain related problems. Does this car emit lead like crazy? Or does the smell of burning diesel cause harm?
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Have an '82 MB 300D. Started noticing a constant knocking noise from the rear anytime I got it over 35rpm on an incline. Subsided if I pulled over and let it sit for 20mins or so. Now knocking just comes up randomly when accelerating. Goes days without doing it. Eases up when I let off the accelerator. Sound just like engine knocking but at rear of vehicle.
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Recently I've noticed that when I take my car up to highway speeds- 55 MPH or higher- the engine feels as though it hesitates- I don't actually slow down, but I have trouble accelerating beyond where it starts to lag. It's like an imaginary bump my car is going over where the engine isn't fully accelerating. Happens for a second, then goes away, but lately it's happening often- several times in a row- it just feels laggy, sometimes continuously, and i've got a bad feeling about it.Tires and brakes are completely new (Nov 2011, calipers, rotors, and pads replaced), oil level is checked weekly and has been fine lately. ~200k miles. It's a manual/ 4spd, I don't know if this is clutch/ transmission slippage, or if I have a piston misfiring, OR if maybe it's a fuel injection problem,,,,
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My 1982 240D Mercedes Benz skips especially when accelerating. While it doesn't do it all the time, when it does it really loses power and comes almost to a crawl (at least 10 mph decrease in speed) and is quite annoying for me and probably for the drivers behind me, what's going on. My guess is that the fuel injectors are clogged as they have never been changed since the car's creation. When idling it does not skip; only when engaging and shifting through the gears (this is a manual transmission) especially when going up into third gear and fourth.
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When the brake pedal is first depressed, it sounds like air is being pushed out of it, sort of like flatulence, and are less responsive. When i pump the brake, it fills with air and tightens. The brakes work when I depress the pedal all the way down. Also, I have to pull my driver-side door shut a few times before it will close and lock with the vacuum system. Otherwise it won't close. Eventually the door closes and I can lock it when I shut the door just right. (My mechanic and I are working together to find replacement locks from junk yards) Is this the master cylinder? Or could this be due to a leak in the vacuum system since my door does not readily close? Or is it something else entirely? 1978 Mercedes 240D...
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I am trying to convince my father into buying the VW Toureg. He has a Mercedes SUV, and he tells me that it is way too expensive for a VW. I like his SUV, but i own a VW Jetta GLI 1.8t. I love this car. My mom has a Merc. C230 Kompressor, and i guess thats the comparison to the Jetta, i hate her car.
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I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
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I have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
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While on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
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The check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
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I have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
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I have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?
It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!
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My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?
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My 1994 mercedes C220 stalls at idle. the local mercedes dealer told me that it is caused by the alternator overcharging. can this be true??
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I have this sprinter cargo van and i can't find the car battery, but i found a car battery inside the actual vehicle with a wire going towards the engine,...... It's a 2012 and the car starts up but its starting to hesitate when i try turning it on ..... and there is nothing hooked up to the negative side of the battery.... I'm wondering if this is safe, and if i ever need to jump start it, how would i do it?........ don't know if the negative side of the battery should have something hooked up to it or not .....
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My 95 sls started having problems with Its turn signal a while ago. The dash lights show that it is on and the turn signal reminder dings at me. The lights all function properly, however at random the hazard light and the left turn signal on the dash will light up and wont stop dinging at me until I signal left. It will continue to do this to me for a random amount of time and it getting really annoying. Why this is happening?
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I have a 89 Mercedes 190e. The car stays running and will drive but after so long starts acting like it's starving for fuel. I have spark and nothing wrong with fuel filter but when tested there was no pressure what's odd is the fuel pump was tested and it works fine all the lines have been cleared I'm stumped what else can I check...
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My 86 Mercedes 190e simply died and wouldn't restart. It does turn over, but my mechanic said it was getting no fire at all to the plugs.
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Car starts intermittently, have heard this is common on Mercedes Benz cars, whats the fix? I do my own maintenance on my cars have tools ect.
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I have a 1990 Mercedes 190E with kind of low miles for its age. Nice car, runs well. The problem is that the blower for the AC, heater, and defroster won't go on when it's cold or wet outside. Sometimes while I'm driving it will suddenly turn on. Sometimes if I restart the car it will go on; sometimes stays on, sometimes goes off after a bit. When it's dry and/or warm outside - no problem; on whenever I want, stays on, no problems. I have checked and replaced the fuses and I have had it at three different repair shops and they all insisted that it was the center console control that was causing the problem and now I have that whole unit replaced and it has not fixed the problem no matter what I tell the mechanic. I get it that it's an intermittent problem making it harder to identify ...
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I just got a 1986 190e. The ac seems to work but when I turn the fan on the compressor shuts off. Am I doing something wrong ?
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