My '08 Ford Focus Diesel dies while accelerating on hills or under load. In third gear, around 2800 RPM the engine consistently shuts down. The engine continues to run until the fuel is exhausted (about 10 seconds). No warning lights come on and the radio, lights, etc. continue to function. Putting it in neutral and restarting the car consistently works.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Focus with the Zetec 2L, 16 valve. When the car is warm and I put it in neutral or park and take my foot off of the brake it will occasionally shut off. Not stall, but shut off - as though I turned the key. This doesn't happen every time; it usually doesn't. I have no other drivability problems and there are no warning lights or engine codes. The ideas I have are:
- Vacuum/ brake booster leak
- MAF problem or dirty throttle body
- Something weird going on with the transmission shift interlock mechanism.
My Focus has 102,000 miles. It has thrown a p0171 code and I have been attempting to fix it. So far this is what I have done:Changed MAF, air filter, PCV Valve, plugs, Valve cover gaskets, Bank 1 O2 sensor and fuel filter. All new. I have cleaned the throttle body, fuel rail intake manifold. Cannot hear vacuum leaks and tested for leaks with carb cleaner.
Symptoms: engine cranks but has a hard time starting, usually on second try. When tank is about half full I get Rough acceleration, higher RPMs (doesn't change gear) and engine stalls on hard left turns. Idle gets rough at times but usually stabilizes at around 700 rpms.
At the beginning, #1 spark plug chamber had a lot of oil in it. It's been a few months and no oil after Valve cover gasket and PCV change. Tested coils and the plugs get a spark. Before I start messing with the fuel pump, am I missing something else that I can do?
While I'm cursing at highway speed everything is fine. But when u punch it it pass someone it's like I actually slow down, same from a red light. I've got a livewire programmer in it and this problem is somewhat new. It just seems to keep getting worse, I was going up a hill on the interstate this morning and at 2800 rpms I was actually slowing down. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is going out or if the transmission is slipping or what.
View 7 RepliesLast week my battery light came on for the first time in years. I have a 185 amp DC Power alternator after dealing with so many bad oem ones.
Anyways, battery light came on when i pulled up to a stop sign. I proceeded to plug my sct x4 in to see what the voltage was, with the battery light it was 11.50. I shut the truck off started it back up, no light and voltage was 13.7. Went through the stop sign got into some more traffic, started to accelerate again and this is when the truck shuts off for the first time. Put it in neutral, and it started right back up.
Several days later it shut off on me two times back to back. It was a cold start, and both times the battery light was on and the truck would die within 30 seconds. Third start it kept running fine.
This past Saturday morning battery light was on, let it idle for awhile then as i tried to park it in the garage it shut off. Started it up, no light so it ran fine. Later when i started the truck it shut off again. So it has shut off on me 5 times in the last week.
Some more background on the truck:
2005, 199k miles
Well maintained (T6 every 5k, filters every 15k, etc.)
The injectors are going bad, it started running rough saturday 1/9/16, just a couple days before it started shutting off.
I used to a sct x4 to pull codes, i have p2237 (if i remember right) which is an intermittent icp signal. I replaced the pigtail and icp less than a year ago because of the same code.
And three codes for glow plug solenoid open on 5, 6, and 7.
No ipr codes
Where to monitor or what to check. The past few weeks this truck all the sudden went from a quick starter(barely hit the key and it would pop off) cold and hot to one that consistently cranks for around 5 seconds before it starts. Doesn't matter if I wait for the glow plug dash light to go out when it's sat for two days or if the engine has a ECT of 198 F and was just running 5 minutes prior...it still cranks over for 5 seconds before starting. Seems like it's an electronic issue vs mechanical, but that's just a guess.
The truck runs, drives and tows excellent outside of this starting quirk...so I know I shouldn't complain but this isn't right from what it used to start like and seems like it's a warning that something is likely to fail down the road. I'd Rather find it now than when 100's of miles from home if possible.
I updated it with better dummy plugs, standpipes, STC fitting, rebuilt FICM, 2 fresh batteries, new fuel pump, ICP sensor all within the last 10K miles. I scanned it with a code reader and found no codes in the history and the check engine light is not on.
Monitoring with a Scan Gauge all inputs seem normal for what I've read on this website with the exception of SYC it says 0? Which should mean it would never start I think but yet it does? I checked my code numbers from the list and I had it entered correct. Is this my issue a bad crank or cam position sensor?
My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
What the fault codes below could be indicating. Let me quickly bring you up to speed. I was experiencing and issue with my car running rough (engine miss/hesitation) between 1200 and 2800 rpm. My ESP and CEL lights both came on. Eventually, my car stalled on me while driving. After attempting to restart the car a few times, the engine finally started. I took the car to two dealerships and was told the Mass Air Flow sensors and Intake Manifold Runner were faulty and needed replacing. After reading some of the post on the forum, I deduced the intake manifold runner would not cause the car to stall. That said, I purchased two new MAF sensors and replaced them myself to no avail. I still had the problem. I took the car to an independent mechanic (who has experience with phaetons). He hasn't been able to identify the issue. He provided me with the fault codes below:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 4D0-907-560-BGH.lbl
Part No SW: 4DO 907 560 CS HW:
Component: 4.2L V8/5VG 0030
Coding: 0007873
Shop # WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 79F21F7E33C272C
6 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
What I should do next. My car starts fine and idles smoothly. After driving the car for a few minutes, the engine miss/hesitation shows up.
I have a 2008 Prius and my car consistently tops out just under 40 MPG - I've never had a tank last over 325 miles. Seems like it's somewhat below the average.
View 8 RepliesI had a consistent misfire on this car and finally got a P0301 trouble code. I installed new Autolite AP 104 plugs and wires. Now, when I start the engine. it runs perfectly. But when I put it in gear, it misfires. After a minute or so, the misfire clears and the engine runs perfectly. I have not received another trouble code. One thing I did notice is that the plugs I took out (Motorcraft AWSF 32P) had a much larger gap than the .044 the associate at AutoZone set the new plugs to.
View 7 RepliesI have a 08 Focus that will not go in reverse. I have power and speed in the rest of the gears. It will shift into reverse, just acts like neutral. Speedometer works and check engine light is not on. This is my girlfriend car she called me this morning saying she has no reverse. I drove it fine last night. I plan on looking at it and checking the cables and replace the filter. The car has 80k'ish miles on it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford Focus. The heat in my car stays hot while I am driving but when I stop at a light or slow down the heat goes very cool.
View 1 RepliesSo for a couple weeks my car has been having issues starting. When I turn the key initially it will do nothing sometimes, take a second to start sometimes, and start almost normally sometimes. It seems to be at it's worse when I leave it for longer periods, such as after work or overnight. What happens most is that I turn the key and nothing happens for a moment, then it starts to turn over, and after a few seconds of struggling to start it turns over. It hasn't gotten worse yet, but i'd like to hear from the more knowledgeable before I go to a mechanic.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford Focus with 122k miles in good condition, nothing ever replaced except an engine mount, shocks, and coolant thermostat and all regular maintenance.
In the last four months I have had a few instances of the car shaking during my commute. Only happens when I am either stopped at an exit ramp or stopped during heavy traffic on the highway. It can happen anywhere from 10-30 minutes into my commute. Feels like either the road is shaking from an earthquake or godzilla is standing behind it and pushing it back and forth. It's very strong but very smooth and slow. Like being on a boat. There is no vibration in the steering wheel or any other parts and no noise associated with it. It goes away once I start driving again.
I had a cracked engine mount once that produced a lot of vibration and rattling, and this shaking doesn't feel or sound anything remotely like that one, so I am doubtful that it has the do with the mounts (just had that one replaced a couple months ago anyway).
This is also extremely intermittent. Maybe once a month at most, although the time span in between occurrences seems to be shorter so that's why I am investigating. And when it happens, it's just once during my entire drive and then not again for another few weeks or so. So it would be hard to take it into a mechanic to reproduce.
What could this be? I've been thinking about getting a new car and this has me worried that I'm entering into the timeframe with this one where major things start breaking.
My 2008 Ford Focus SE hesitates at highway speeds, seems to decelerate and accelerate, sometimes more, sometime less and sometime not at all. dosn't seem to affect the acceleration.
View 1 RepliesI recently had my Focus in the shop for some body work due to hail damage. After I got the car back, the air vents on the dashboard and the defogger would not blow air. Only the lower vents would blow air, regardless of which setting I had the vent selector on. (Even if I had the selector to defogger or dashboard vents only, the vents by my feet blew out air). The guy who runs the body shop said that wouldn't be related to anything they did on the car. What might be causing this? It's no longer under warranty, so I want to know if there's an easy at-home fix. (Also, when I got the car back, the dashboard clock and the preset radio stations had been reset. Don't know if this might be related to the problem with the vents).
View 5 RepliesOn cold start ups only I can hear a tapping sound coming from the engine. It's a consistent sound that goes away after the engine warms up and idles down. Could it be the belts? I'm not concerned to be honest because the engine runs fine.
NOTE: I have also noticed that when cold in between shifts the vehicle seems to hesitate, almost as if trying to catch up. Hard to explain, but it only happens when the engine is cold.
My 1999 f350 psd air condition wont start until you hit around 2800 rpm. Hit 2800ish rpm then the clutch engages and it blows ice cold air.The truck will sit and idle once the clutch has been engaged and stays engaged. Turn of the air and it wont start again until it sees 2800 rpm . Put power to the clutch with the engine off and it works fine. Cant see it being a pressure problem because without the clutch engaged nothing changes in the air conditioning system so why does it take 2800ish rpm to have it engage.
View 7 RepliesThe Subaru as 260k miles on it and I live in Georgia. When I attempt to start the car, it turns over and sounds like the engine catches and then dies out without getting over 200 rpms or so. Its a manual and I made sure the floor mat isn't impeding the clutchsensor.
The car has been doing this the past three days and finally today after driving around for a few hours and multiple times shutting the engine off with at least two start attempts before it fires, I get home and shut off the car.
I then attempt to restart it about two hours later and after 7 tries, all with the car sounding like the the engine has fired but not yet fully running , then the engine dies. I would push start it but am parked on an uphill slope.
We have taken our 2006 Pontiac Vibe to two different mechanics numerous times trying to find out what's wrong, but they told us that the car needs to not start for them in order for them to diagnose the problem. The issue with this is that every time we leave it with them, it starts just fine, and they charge us $45 per night to leave it there. We are scared to use the car because we don't want to be stranded somewhere when it randomly doesn't start.
Symptoms:
- Starts sometimes, but not consistently (once every week or two, it just won't start)
- The car sounds like it is almost going to start, as we are hearing more than just clicking, but for some reason the engine just never gets to that final rumble to stay on.
- When the issue occurs, the car will sometimes start if we try again minutes or hours later
- Jumping the battery seems to get it start.
Previous Attempts:
- Already changed the battery
- Already gotten a tune-up and oil change
As I said, we are incredibly frustrated, as this problem is not consistent enough to show up for the mechanic, and therefore renders us with an unreliable and undiagnosable car.
My truck is still fairly new with 4,600 miles. I took my family on a camping trip and pulled my trailer which is about 7800 LBS. I made multiple hill climbs and mentioned to my wife how well the truck does on the hills pulling the trailer then a minute later the truck jolts and a "low oil" warning light flashed on the dash. By that time the truck had already shut down and I was coasting to the side of the road. At least I still had the ability to steer until I hit about 2 mph then the truck completely shut down. I could smell burning oil or something similar coming from the engine area.
I knew I had plenty of oil because I had just checked it hours before. I got out and checked it again and was still full. After standing there for several minutes starring at the truck I realized that our big yearly trip up North to the redwoods was over. I tried to start the truck again and it just turned over but wouldn't start. Nothing was smoking or appeared to be leaking. So I started to look for the Ford tow truck number. While looking for the number I tried to start it again and it started! I drove it about 3 minutes down the road to a gas station and called the dealer. They of course said never heard of the issue. Have the truck and trailer towed in to the nearest dealer. Well decided I wasn't going to do it since I was already in the middle of no where and the truck was driving fine. I wasn't going to ruin our big trip over this so I drove it. I figured if something failed at least they could fix it and not tell me they can't duplicate the issue after 3 days. The truck drove fine the rest of the way there.
It happened again coming home. While climbing another hill in the middle of a 2 lane canyon with no shoulder and no cell service. Luckily, I coasted a few hundred yards to the only turn out I saw in a mile stretch. Once, again it showed "Low oil". I let the truck sit for 5 minutes and it started. Drove it another 5 hours home with no issues. I monitored all my gauges during this time none showed over heating. So in summary, truck shows "low oil" warning then shuts down and restarts minutes later. I will be taking it in to the dealer soon but I'm expecting the standard can't duplicate the problem.