Looking at a 2002 Dodge Diesel 5.9 TURBO 3/4 ton pickup. There is an oil leak on the drivers side that you can see if you look over the tire, that the owner says comes from an overflow out of the oil pan. Never heard of it. Owner says it loses about 1/2 qt. oil at every change at 3,000 miles. Do I need to run real fast??
View 7 RepliesMy truck wouldn't start so i replaced the fuel filter and it ran fine for a week than wouldn't start again. Took it to a mech, who ran all the computer codes and scans on it and came up with a lift pump pressure problem. Replaced the pump and it ran for 4 days, now it doesn't start again. They said the injection pump was fine.
View 2 RepliesMy dodge truck won't start. I replaced the fuel filter and that cured it for a week then it would't start again.Took it to a mech. and they scaned it with there computer and diagnosed it as a lift pump issue as the pressure was a bit low. Replaced the pump and that worked for 4 days, now it won't start again.
View 1 RepliesSo I have a 2005 Dodge Stratus. It must be a year old model because most of the parts and engine wise are of the 2006 model. Well earlier in Feb/March I had to get my timing belt and heads changed due to the bending. After that my car was working fine, but my coolant overflow tank kept losing coolant. Had that fixed with the repair shop as well. After that it seemed that my car was working well. Then it started to overheat, and I was informed that my lower radiator hose had a small leak. I had that fixed as well. This is when the constant overheating started.
I assumed that the air needed to be removed from the system. So I had it bleed, and then it seemed to work well, but that was not true seeing as my car continued to overheat of the cold air was on. The only thing that keeps it working is if I turn the heater on. That cools the system off. So now everyday I have to keep letting air out of the radiators, and run the heater if it gets too hot.
I just noticed today that my thermostat housing bolts have coolant on them whenever the engine gets to hot. Do you think it's not right enough, or my radiator cap may be bad?
Replacements:
Head gasket
Thermostat
Radiator hoses
I believe the cap of the radiator as well.
we had a shop replace a thermostat in oct 10, last week our truck started running hot so we put in about 3 qt of 50/50 coolant. it returned to normal temp the next day we noticed some foam coming out of the overflow. when we opened the hood it looked like a brownish/red color and is a thick foam. When taking it back to the garage they cannot tell what it is. They have tried to flush it out and say they put in 3qt of fluid and only get out 1qt. It can be chunky at times. What it could be?
View 1 RepliesMy dodge spirit has 80,000 miles on it. i love this little car, however, yesterday for some reason while driving my radiator reservoir started to overflow. I didn't notice at the time, but when i got home there was water in the engine compartment and it was obvious that it had come from the reservoir. This morning I went out to drive the car and at first the engine shook a little but then started running smoothly, when I backed out i noticed a rather large cloud of white smoke (water in the engine) I immediately turned off the car. I have a feeling I will need to rebuild this car's engine. What I should expect to pay for this repair?
View 6 Replies2002 Dodge Diesel PU ... At about 125000 miles a slight vibration appeared and has progressively gotten worse. Now at 177000 it comes on at 60 mph and is pretty bad. I've replaced tires, shocks, hub bearings, u-joints and locator bars, all to no avail. The tires show no unusual wear and the drive shaft(s) u-joints appear good. I'm not the only one with this problem but Dodge denies any knowledge of it's occurrence.
View 5 RepliesMy 98 dodge ram 2500 was running and now the gauges don't work and the fuel pump isn't working either, I have checked and replaced fuses and relays with no luck ...
View 3 RepliesMy 2009 Dodge Ram 2500 with diesel engine, intermittently makes a noise similar to the sound knobby tires make. It also sounds similar to the exhaust brake, but louder. A vibration accompanies the noise. Two mechanics (one a tire expert, one at a Dodge dealer) test drove it and examined it on their racks and said it's the right front wheel bearing/hub assembly. I replaced that, despite not hearing or feeling any problem when rotating the wheel by hand. I've examined all tires and turned the wheels by hand while listening for odd sounds or roughness, and examined all drive shafts and joints which have not apparent problem, to no avail. When this issue first started, I heard a sound like rubber squeaking while driving at very low speed, especially in reverse.
View 1 RepliesI am scheduled to leave on a trip in the morning. I have installed an 85 gallon in bed auxillary fuel tank. I plumbed it in as per the instructions and the same as the last two I had in other trucks. After install I pumped 25 gallons in the aux to see how it worked. Every thing worked right. So yesterday I filled both tanks to the top and left the shutoff between them open.
This morning I noticed a puddle of diesel on the shop floor. Wiped it up and left for the golf course. Got home and found another puddle. I have closed the shut-off valve but it still seems to be leaking. It is not the plumbing I installed. It's hard to tell because I have a protector around the tank but it seems the leak is coming from the top. I just took a short run down the highway and reparked it. I have a can't miss appointment so when I get back I'll see how much has leaked.
Is there some kind of overflow on top the tank? Everything is dry where the aux tank is plumbed in and the air pipe seems to be fine. If the leak stops with the shutoff closed then I'm just gonna head out but if not then I'm gonna take down the shield and see what I can find, but I'd sure rather not.
Truck was throwing that collect temp different than oil temp light then started to heat. When I drove temp went down. When I stopped I checked coolant t as low and left orange rust dust around and under overflow I have topped off but can't find a leak. I clean it and it comes back I have a leak somewhere? Head gasket? But oil is fine I drive my truck 200 miles no issues?
View 14 RepliesI didn't drive my truck for one day and the batteries are died. This is the second time this has happen. That is a pretty fast drain time. THe truck only has 2500 miles on it. And I;m talking the batteries a dead dead. I hate having to take the truck to the shop. Just a big inconvenience. And it only happens about three weeks apart. I bet that would be pretty had to find the problem.
View 5 RepliesI bought a 2006 F-350 4WD Lariat SRW with a little over 200,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run perfectly, except when pulling a load (9,000-10,000 lbs) down the interstate/highway. Sometimes, when pulling above 65-70 mph for an extended period of time (45 minutes to an hour) the truck will all of a sudden idle down and won't get above 2300-2500 RPMs (even if you put it in neutral and floor it). It's not enough to shut it down, but it won't let the truck accelerate as fast as normal. Killing the truck and cranking it back makes it go back to running normal for a little while, but the periods of it acting up get shorter after each killing and restarting. I took it to the Ford place while it was acting up, and they thought it was a turbo problem. They cleaned the turbo and said everything looked fine, but the same problem arose after leaving the shop. They've been stumped at 3 different Ford shops, but one said there's a 95% chance a new turbo would fix the problem. What might be wrong?
View 8 RepliesHow does one pressure test for air leaks??? Truck is a 04/04 F250 with 198K ICP sensor in the valve cover.
View 7 RepliesEarly 04 but 06 motor, Coolant filter, BPD EGR cooler, Head studs. I did use the search tool, overloaded with EGR cooler leaks and head gasket failure in the results.
Noticed ECT Spiking 217 (EOT 187)as went to post office,10 min run time from a cold start. Checked Degas a bit low, did my business and went home. Got home ECT 223 EOT(221) zero coolant in Degas and notice this mess. as well as puddling up under radiator.
I left the truck running and added some water to the degas hoping I could spot the leak, no love.
On our trucks do we have a weep hole for the water pump? I didn't notice any water or stains around it or the pulley. Nothing around the hoses either... yet.
Once it cools I am going to pull the fan shroud and look for a possible hole in radiator. Are there any other suspect areas?
I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. The other day I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark (if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year. I also had to refill my degas bottle up to the fill line. Took 2 gallons of Ford VC-3-B Coolant and water mix. After a short run to verify the problem, it took another 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of mix. But, no overheating. No signs of leaks anywhere. Just a strong scent of coolant on shutdown outside the truck. Pressure tested the cap, I don't have a way of testing the system pressure.
Data from Autoenginuity:
Engine Oil temp 195-202 Degrees
Engine Coolant #1: 188.2-199.5 Degrees.
Engine Coolant #2: 125.5-129.9 Degrees.
I have the full CSV file.
i am recently a new owner of a 2006 6.0 F-350. So like any other used rig, it has its quirks. So the one that is bugging me to s the steering. It has been surging hard while driving. It mostly does this when cold. It feels like it's bouncing back and forth then I have to stop and force it from lock to lock. Once I do this it seems to stop it till the next day. I checked the PS reservoir and it's full. The power steering pump looks like it has a slight leak but doesn't seem to be a major issue. The lines going into the steer box are clean and no leaks...
View 8 RepliesOK, until I figure out what to do with the other truck I overheated, I've got another ambulance that needs some work, and I got to have a truck running.
This is the same config - 2006 E450 6.0 dually ambulance with 122K. Starts and runs; I drove it all the way to Houston from Minnesota when I bought it and made several shorter trips since with no problems except the AC compressor leaks freon. Then, I found oil in the degas bottle. A tech said it needs an oil cooler and he says there's some leakage at the rear main seal that's "common with this engine."
Can't recall reading a lot of rear main seal issues here. Is that right? Is oil cooler the obvious diagnosis for oil in the coolant?
I have had a slight oil leak at the front of the engine for a while, and slight oil leak on the pass rear of the engine, and recently got a decent oil leak in the rear drivers side of the engine. I want to fix all three leaks if I can identify what is wrong.
Leak 1 : Front of the engine. This has been leaking a drop or two of oil every few days for over a year. Slight leak so I didnt worry about it. The leak is dripping from between the crank pulley and the engine. Is it likely the front crank seal is leaking, or maybe something above it?
Leak 2 : Rear of engine pass side. There has been a slight oil leak on this side of the rear engine for about a year too. It leaks about a drop of oil a day. I can see that the oil is all over the starter though.
Leak 3 : This just started and is a decent leak. It is dripping off the exhaust manifold as seen in the picture below and leaks a 6 inch circle of oil on the ground in a week.
Maybe leak 2 and 3 are connected? I tried to get a good look of the engine and without pulling anything off, I couldn't see any oil leaks on the top of the engine. I couldn't see the HPOP cover though because the turbo was in the way.
NOTE: I do park my truck in the driveway every day and our driveway is slanted quite a bit with the nose of the truck much higher than the back.
Here are some pics of the oil leaks:
Under pass side of truck, oil on starter : [URL] ....
Under the Drivers exhaust manifold : [URL] .....
Bottom front of engine, between pulley and engine : [URL] .....
Ok, so I have a Viair onboard compressor supplying air to airbags, train horn and fitting in the rear. With all that, I have multiple connections and some leak ever so slightly making the compressor cycle ever few hours. Question: Is there some sealant I can use with push on fittings and connectors to eliminate the leaks?
View 9 RepliesMy 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx is overheating, probably on its last legs. First time this happened the radiator overflow tank seemed low so I topped it up with glycerol and added some leak plugger to the radiator for good measure. The car drove just fine for 20-30km then it happened again. At the same time, and I don't know if this is relevant, the windscreen defroster, which should bleed warm engine air, now only gives cold.
View 3 Replies